Cannot Remover CPU cooler from Motherboard

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zoptix

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I used an aftermarket CPU cooler (Thermaltake Water 2.0 Performer) when building a new system. On the first power on, I check the CPU temp and it slowly increased to about 60C before I powered off.

I checked the cooler leads and fans, they all seem to be working. After a few minutes, one of the water lines is cool the other is a little warm which indicates to me that there is some cooling so I assumed that the cooling head needs to be remounted. The motherboard temp pretty much remains at ambient and the case is still open. I mounted the radiator to the top of the case where there was an open spot for a fan.

When I tried to remount the head, I had trouble removing the screws connecting it to the motherboard. The thermaltake uses a backplate that holds grommets the the cooler hole, when I try to unscrew the screws holding the cooler head in place, these grommets turn with them inside the backplate and the holes preventing me from removing the cooler head.

I have two questions:

(1) Is my assumption that cooler head needs to be remounted and arctic silver applied a good assumption?

(2)Does anyone have suggestions on removing the cooler head from the motherboard.

Thanks in advance.
 
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willard

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Most likely.

(2)Does anyone have suggestions on removing the cooler head from the motherboard.
Click to expand...
Use a wrench or pliers to hold the thing still while you unscrew it? It should have locked into place, sounds like it's not installed right if you're having this much trouble getting it off.

 
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willard

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So are the holes they fit into not shaped correctly, perhaps they've been damaged by overtightening? Because if they are the correct shape and the screws are indeed slotted in, then it is not possible for the screws to spin in place.

It would be helpful if you could post a picture of the backplate so we can better understand exactly what's going on.
 
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zoptix

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I agree something is not right. The backplate is made from plastic, I do not think it is holding its form well compared to that of the grommet which I presume is metal. The grommet is turning similar to what its like when you try to turn a screw with a stripped head. I have tried to use some pliers, but I did not have a good size pair. I will try again tonight, after I get a better pair of pliers.

Also, I had a thought of using something like super glue to fasten the grommet to the backplate better, being very careful not to get any on the mobo. What would you think of this?
 
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nukemaster

nukemaster

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I sure hope the threads are not stripped.

Some glue should not hurt anything if you think that will help. Superglue is not that strong so even removing it later would be ok. Just remember superglue tends to melt plastics(warranty problem).
 
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zoptix

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I will try to post some pictures later tonight

 
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willard

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Glue's not a bad idea, but before you went to those lengths I'd contact the warranty department first and explain your situation. They may have a better idea, but really you just don't want them trying to screw you out of a refund claiming you broke it. Best to get them on the hook for RMA before you go doing anything that drastic.
 
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zoptix

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Here is an update....

Originally I had the pump plugged into the CPU FAN header and the fans plugged into the CPU OPT header. The fans on the reader would turn on, but I would get and warning saying that there was a CPU Fan error, and BIOS couldnt read a fan RPM from the pump. This wasn't troubling considering it was a pump and not a fan, so I switched them.

All the errors went away, and it seemed to be working, fans going, and some cooling but not nearly enough. For example, after 20 minutes idle running with case fully open the CPU temp was stable at 60C. One of the coolant tubes was cool, one was warm. Both of these facts indicate the pump is working, but not providing enough cooling. So I assumed mounting issue, and my difficulties following this seemed to justify that assumption.

An odd thought occured to me, how do I know I am plugged into the correct headers. At this point, the fans should be in the CPU FAN connector, no doubt on that. However, the documentation that goes with my motherboard (ASUS Maximus V Formula) and with the Thermaltake Water 2.0 do not specify where the pump should be plugged in except to turn off fan controls for it. The motherboard is vague on what the CPU OPT header does, and I can find no controlls for it in BIOS, every other fan and and optional fan is there. Then last night I found a reference somewhere on the internet saying to plug the fan into a chassis fan connector, most references say the CPU OPT is fine.

So last night I tried the pump in CHASSIS FAN 2 and after 20 minutes the CPU idle temp was stable at 28C!

It seems to be that it was on the wrong header, but I cannot find anywhere that says for certain that the pump should not be plugged into CPU OPT. In fact, a lot of people on forums say that it is fine to place it there. Am I missing something? Is this something unique to my motherboard? Is my motherboard damaged?

As of right now, my cooler is still stuck on my motherboard, but if these temps stay where they are, then this is fine for now. It does irk me that I can't get it off. I probably overtightened, but I am not the type to use too much force, typically I am the type to use too little over fear of breaking something.

I ordered some gorilla epoxy that I will eventually use to try to fix the grommets/nuts in the backplate. The backplate is made of plastic, and it seems tough, but it can still deform somewhat with enough pressure.

Thanks for your help and any comments on the pump connector would be appreciated. Am I good to go do you think, or is this some apparition and the other shoe will drop soon?
 
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nukemaster

nukemaster

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On my board, Maximus IV Gene-Z. The cpu opt connector is just another 12 volt header with PWM fan control. It actually should match the cpu fan.

In the case of my board, both the CPU_FAN and CPU_OPT connector can NOT control 3 pin fans(I run 2 quiet fans from CPU and CPU OPT on my board and they run full speed all the time).

As long as you have the fan control OFF for the CHA_2 header, you will have ZERO problems with the pump plugged into it.

The only thing I can think of would be that the CPU-OPT must have been trying to slow the pump, that would cause higher temps for sure.
 
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Shigawire

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Hi there. I know this thread is 3 years old... but I have the exact same problem as the OP. I have a Thermaltake Water 2.0 Extreme that I was unfortunate enough to over-tighten two of the four screws yesterday. Now the grommet in the back plate have eaten a circle around the flimsy plastic that's meant to keep the grommet from moving. Shoddy materials to use at such a critical point. I also am the kind of person who doesn't over-tighten, for fear of exactly this eventuality. But I know that it has to be "moderately tight." One of the two screws isn't all the way in, and no matter how much I turn it, it'll just rotate without changing depth as it simply rotates the grommet at the same time. The screw wont go in, and both screws can't come out it seems. This is a brand new MSI Z170A M9 ACK - and it sucks that it has to come to this. In the 3 years that has passed, has anyone learned any tricks to deal with this?
 
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zoptix

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I used Gorilla Super-glue on the backside of the board to glue the grommets to the backside plate. It came off easily. Be careful not to get glue down the holes in the center. I used just a tiny bit to keep the grommets from rotating in the holes.
 
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nukemaster

nukemaster

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Here I was going to say JB weld(just don't do it. It would work, but if it grabs the board. yeah....).

 
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