Optimum Fan Setup in Phantom 410 for Overclock

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cheekycheeze

cheekycheeze

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Mar 17, 2013
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Hi everyone,

This is a long post, I thank you all in advance for helping me out. I'm very new to building your own computer.

Just set up a new PC, stats as listed below:

  • ■ Windows 7
    ■ G Skill Patriot 8GB
    ■ ASUS P8Z77-V-PRO ATX Motherboard
    ■ Intel i5 i5-3570K
    ■ Saphire HD 8950 Overclock Edition 3GB
    ■ Samsung 840 series SSD 250GB
    ■ Cossair TX650M
    ■ NZXT Phantom 410 White
I'm very happy with the build, but I'd like to try overclocking. (CPU and GPU) but, at the moment the case is only filled out with Stock Fans. I'm nervous to overclock with only 3 fans and a positive pressure.

This is my plan for the Fan Set Up

http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/9296/cpufansetuo.jpg
For some reason it won't let me post an image even though my email IS activated, sorry this is the best I can do for now...

The existing fans in the system are

  • ■ Top Orange Box - Stock FN140RB - 1300RPM - 62.5 CFM - 140mm
    ■ Top Left & Bottom Right Red Box Stock FN120RB - 1300RPM - 47.27 CFM - 120mm

The first thing that I'd like to buy is a water cooler my CPU. The phantom has room on top for a 240mm dual water cooling radiator. I was thinking to use the Corsair H100i. I think that'll be much easier to maintain and use and will sit at the top of the case with the 2 new fans

The H100i comes with 2 120mm fans - RPM 2700 - CFM 77 so I was thinking to move the Top Orange FN140RB fan to the bottom of the case (Bottom Blue).

The green right box fits a 120mm fan so I was thinking of moving the left red stock there, then I'd purchase a Cosair Air Series 120mm - RPM 1650 - CFM 63.47.

At the moment all 3 stock fans are connected into the built in Phantom 30W 3-step fan control. I can either add the new fans to the fan controller (3 plugs left), which would be easier, get a new fan control, or plug the fans into the motherboard.

Also on the diagram below the Yellow box is an adjustable interior fan slot, at the moment you can't move it as the Sapphire AMD HD 8950 is in the way. I could move the card down a PCI slot and then i'd be able to adjust the fan angle to around 8 O'Clock. Either a 140mm or 120mm fan fits in this slot.

Although I'm thinking If I move the GPU down, there will be less airflow to the GPU as it'll be much closeer to the PSU. Also the GPU has 2 fans on the bottom side of the fan. Just thought I should let you guys know.

The light grey/white square is where the side fan would sit. Should I bother with a side fan? Should it be intake or exhaust? Intake makes most sense to me as it'll keep the GPU a supply of fresh air. I could use a 120mm or 140mm fan or instead of the stock fan in the Green Box I could have it on the side.

In terms of fan filters I'm thinking the DEMCi Flex NZXT Phantom 410 Filter Kit at
PC Case Gear mainly because it's magnetic and easy to set up and clean.

I apologize that this post was so damn long. I really appreciate your help guys!
The reason I have posted is to see if you guys have any suggestions or ways to improve my fan plan. Noise isn't a totally serious issue more a luxury than a necessity. Also I think i'd gear towards negative pressure. (Thus the reason for fan filters)

Thank you so much for your help!!!:D
 
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euphoria4949

euphoria4949

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Aug 26, 2012
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Well, the main thing as you know would be to get a better CPU cooler, but a those little closed loop coolers don't offer a massively lower temps over a decent and much much cheaper air cooler like a Hyper 212 for instance. My mate has an almost identical rig to mine, only differences being PSU and HDD/SSD's, I have the Hyper 212 Evo and he has a H80 and we both have the exact same overclock because I did his for him LOL, but my temps are actually a degree or 2 lower than his, yet my cooler was less than half the price =)
But hey, it's personal preference if you want a water cooler it's up to you.

Regarding positioning of the fans, warm air rises so the rule for case fans is: If you imagine the case cut in half horizontally, fans positioned in the top half should be exhaust and the fans in the bottom half should be intake. But bare in mind you should keep a fairly equal intake to exhaust ratio. So if your case had 4 intakes and only 1 exhaust, that wouldn't be good for the airflow.
But you have a nice case, which has a fairly similar layout to mine, so you want to go with:
# 2x Front Fans (Intake) - for general airflow and to cool the HDD/SSD
# 1x Side Fans (Intake) - for cooling the GPU, CPU and MoBo
# 1x Rear Fan (Exhaust)
# 2x Top Fans (Exhaust).
You will get a very nice balanced airflow like that. I wouldn't bother with the internal front fan or the bottom fan either as you will have more than enough intake to keep your rig cool.

The Corsair Air Series are nice fans, I have 2 of the SP120 High Performance Edition 2350rpm, they shift a good amount of air and are nice and quiet.
Also, Scythe Gentle Typhoons are very nice as well, I've used these in quite a few builds and I currently have 3 of the 3000rpm ones in my main gaming PC.

Dust filters, well I use these Silverstone FF123B Ultra Fine Magnetic but to be honest I've never noticed any differences between any filters I've ever bought, whether ultra cheap or expensive.
Also for all other little open areas that allow dust to get in, a cheap pair of ladies tights/pantyhose the thick wintery sort work brilliantly! Cheap as hell, easy to cover small awkward holes and work better than actual proper filters.

Hope this helps towards answering a few of your questions.
 
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JamesSneed

JamesSneed

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Oct 26, 2009
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As euphoria4949 stated you really want to start by upgrading the CPU cooler. In a large case like yours I would go with air cooling not a closed loop cooler. A Noctua NH-D14 or a COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO would be my two choices depending on budget. Which ever way you go, do the cpu cooler upgrade first as you already have enough case cooling(meaning the case cooling wont limit your OC).

If your not going to have more than 2 ssd/hard drives think about removing the middle hard drive cage and adding 1 more front intake fan(green box on your image). I would probably relocate the rear exhaust to the front intake then replace the rear exhaust.

I usually use the motherboard to control my CPU fans along with the rear exhaust fan so that they all speed up when the CPU temps rise. A cheap pwm splitter cable works great to get 2-3 of the same fans running in concert. http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=34_451&products_id=31755

The magnetic filters you listed should work out nicely.
 
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cheekycheeze

cheekycheeze

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Mar 17, 2013
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Thanks so much for your Help JamesSneed, euphoria4949 and bigcyco1.

To be honest I'd much prefer a water cooling system, it seems pathetic saying this but I think a massive air cooler would look pretty average on my build. Saying that I don't want to spend money on a closed system if they aren't really THAT good. I'm thinking I might spend a bit more cash on the XSPC Raystorm 750 RX240 Water Cooling Kit as opposed to a Closed Water Cooling system.

In about 2-3 years time I'll probably upgrade the build with Crossover set up with another Raedon HD 7950. If I got the cooling kit I could upgrade the water cooling to water cool the 2 GPU's. For now I won't worry about it.

So what I'm thinking is to remove the HDD cage as JamesSneed has suggested. Move the rear exhaust too the upper front of the case. I'd replace the rear with a Corsair SP120 Performance. Id move the top 140mm fan to the side of the case and replace it with the XPC radiator + 2 Fans.

So it would be

  • ■ Stock NXZT 140mm - 62.5 CFM - Intake
    ■ Stock NXZT 120mm x 2 - 47.27 CFM - Intake - (with pwm splitter cable)
    ■ Total Intake: 157.04

  • ■ Cosair Performance 120mm - 62.74 CFM - Exhaust
    ■ XPC Fans 120mm x 2 - 65.2 CFM - Exhaust
    ■ Total Exhaust - 193.14 CFM

So it would be 36.1 negative pressure.

Does this sound like a good setup? The i'll have too save up a little bit more, but I can wait.

Thanks again for your help guys!!!:D
 
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euphoria4949

euphoria4949

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Yeah it all sounds good. I always say, personally, I would prefer negative pressure but it depends on your type of case, the fans e.t.c...

The only thing I would watch if I'm reading your comment correctly is, if you're plugging 2 fans into one header. Check your MoBo's specs for the amp/watts supplied to each header, as it's not a good idea to exceed said amount.

Glad to help =)
 
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manofchalk

manofchalk

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May 11, 2012
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Yep, we got ourselves a water-cooler here Cyco :D.
And an Australian one at that from the PCCG link, just gets better!

Definitely advise if you want to go water-cooling, go all out on a custom kit like that XSPC Raystorm one. Especially Down Under, the cost of a H100i or similar is so close to a custom kit it would be ridiculous bit too.
Though I do advise you rethink the RX240 kit, you'v got yourself a mid-tower case and thicker radiators can pose issues in large full towers like my HAF-X. Suggest you get a slimmer RS or EX240 radiator instead.
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=207_160_45&products_id=21055
The EX might not be an option though, as the only EX kits include the D5 pump, which means their about $100 more than the X20 750 V2 pump kits. Though having that stronger pump means you can easily add in the GPU's later on...
Of course you could build the loop from scratch and get exactly what you want.

A must read for a first time water-cooler.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/277130-29-read-first-watercooling-sticky
Will explain a lot of the basics and concepts behind water-cooling.

The way I'v got my fans set up is extreme positive pressure (I prefer positive pressure). Front 200mm fan, side 200mm fan both intaking air, with 3x120mm fans on an EX360 rad exhausting. The rear 120mm was also intaking air, but now that I'm externally mounting a rad from that mount I cant use that. This way you get a bottom to top airflow and forces air out of the case through the radiator.

 
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cheekycheeze

cheekycheeze

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Mar 17, 2013
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Haha yes I am Australian!
I really like the idea of water cooling. I'm pretty much set on water cooling now.

Unfortunately the XSPC Raystorm 750 RS240 Water Cooling Kit is Out of stock with no ETA. I'll give PC Case Gear a call tomorrow to see if I can get any assistance.

I just did a quick wishlist to see how much all the individual parts cost Water Cooling Wishlist which is $223 OR I could just get a XSPC Raystorm D5 EX240 Water Cooling Kit which is only $27 more at $250.

As far as My understanding goes, the main difference between the two would be the XSPC D5 Dual Bay Reservoir and Pump and the XSPC X2O 750 Dual Bay Reservoir and Pump V4

I must admit, the XSPC D5 does scare me thinking that it uses 24 Volts. My PSU is 650watt, I'm hoping that after the water cool system I'll still have enough leeway to OC. Tell me if I'm an idiot PLEASE! If my PSU can handle it and OC fine then I'll just get the XPC D5240 kit. [Edit: I've just looked at postage, the kit is much cheaper for postage $55 express for the wishlist, $20 Express for the kit! Standard Post is $17 vs $15, so cost is even less of an issue]

That guide is really good and detailed, I've had a quick read but haven't had the time to read in detail and thanks for stating the obvious with the RX240 Water Cooling Kit. That would have made me feel stupid if I bought it.

Also looking at the MoBo, I've found there are 6 fan ports all together, so no need to plug 2 fans into one header (Thanks euphoria4949)

Thanks again Guys! I appreciate it! :D
 
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manofchalk

manofchalk

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The main difference is the pump, though the EX series of radiator is better than the RS due to its split fin design.
The D5 pump is a lot stronger than the X20 750 V4, so if adding in GPU's is a possibility you might want to go for that.

The PSU will only be providing 12v to the pump, the fact it specifies 24v is that with some pump controllers allow you to overvolt the pump.
A D5 pump typically pulls about 25W from the PSU, with some of the more hungry units (PMP-500 for instance) pulling 36W. So power draw isn't a massive concern.
The postage is probably due to the kit coming in a box, while the individual parts require packing and will probably end up being a bit more bulky.
 
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