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PC Shuts Down after about 1 second

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March 22, 2013 7:28:34 PM

Hi, hope someone will be able to guide me here as I got huge problem with my custom build PC.

I was playing a game this evening and the PC just randomly shut down. my first thought was that it overheated as the game is demanding, i tried to turn it on and the LED fans just blinked for a split second and shut down again.

I tried different combinations with turning on and off my PSU and leaving it off for a while but nothing worked at all...

I looked into my PC and took the CPU out and cleaned the liquid cooler + the CPU so there is no any thermal paste and applied a fresh one. Installed all correctly with correct amount of paste but same result.

I have tried unplugging all devices including USB's and fans so just the PSU is plugged in but it still didn't help at all, same result.

I took ram out, ram in, changed sticks around - no good.

My bets are on either two: Faulty PSU / Faulty MOBO - which one though?

Can it be the CPU? I got a brand new CPU + Liquid cooling solution for it a month ago... Please advise should I also consider a faulty CPU?

I got no other PSU MOBO or CPU to test it on so I am kind of screwed. I will probably buy one and risk it but I need to positive which of the components should I buy?

My Specs are:
Corsair Vagance 1600mhz 16gb ram (2 sticks)
i5 3570K 3.4ghz + Thermal Cooling solution from Intel.
EVGA 660TI 1046mhz
SSD 256gb OCZ
HDD 2TB Western Digital
Asus DG 5.1 sound card
TP Link Wireless card

The PSU I have is: Alpine 700W (It's a cheap one but is it a bad one? Would it be able to cause such issues with my system?)

Last note:
It happened to me 2 weeks ago too, but I was able to get it up and running after waiting like 3 minutes. If it happened back then and it worked after 3 minutes, why does it not work now again, sure it would be broken after the first time...?

More about : shuts

March 22, 2013 7:36:20 PM

That PSU is really crappy. For the specs you have you should really have bought a silver or gold certified PSU. It probably is your PSU, but do you have a multimeter? You can test your PSU output with that. Also what MoBo do you have?
March 22, 2013 7:38:08 PM

I would try breadborading the system, this involves placing your mobo on top of its box or any cardboard box that's big enough, install the CPU + heatsink and 1 stick RAM, and the PSU. Short the start pins with the tip of a screwdriver (connect the 2 start button pins with the head). If it turns on and proceeds to run, continue adding parts, one by one, until you find whats preventing it from running.
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a c 111 à CPUs
March 22, 2013 7:38:30 PM

For that symptom, I would bet its a power issue, but for the hell of it, Can you install the stock cpu cooler just in case the water cooler pump has failed?
March 22, 2013 7:53:06 PM

Completely forgot to include the Mobo in my spec list...

I have a: Gigabyte Z68-D3-B3 all up to date and all that stuff

I will try testing the power on the PSU, I do have a multimeter at home but don't know how to use it, I'll ask my dad coz he's good with this stuff. Can u just tell me what voltage it should read?

If the PSU is not the problem I will proceed with nukemaster's idea to try the heatsink and see if the liquid cooler failed for some reason

If none of the above solve my problem I will move on to the MotherFu**Jones xD solution. hehe

Would it be possible that this could be caused by some small layer of thermal paste on a mobo? I applied a lot of it for first time and I just realized this today... could it leak ?

Thanks for the answers guys, I got my hopes up.

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a c 111 à CPUs
March 22, 2013 8:07:17 PM
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You should get the following voltages

black to red 5 +/-5%
black to yellow 12 +/-5%
black to orange 3.3 +/-5%
Your meter should be set to DC voltage(24 volts and under for meters without auto range)
Your meter will NOT see voltage ripple, but chances are this is not a ripple problem.

you can hotwire a power supply by shorting the GREEN to any BLACK(in the 24 pin connector. Please short this with the power supply OFF then switch it on), but disconnect it from the system first. Also note that testing this way does not present any LOAD so the power supply may not stay on and the voltage readings are not too accurate.

http://4volt.com/Blog/archive/2009/03/12/howto-hotwire-...
http://www.techwarelabs.com/guides/misc_mod/psumod/

To make things more interesting the power supply has a wire that tells the board that the power is ok. If that messes up, the system will not boot no matter how good the actual power is.

I once had an Antec power supply not provide the right voltage to the power ok signal so I could not boot, but the power was actually good and it worked on a board that did not look for that signal and the voltages tested out stable.

If you got paste on the board, use rubbing(isopropyl) alcohol(and a qtip) to remove it(70+ percent, higher is better). Do NOT touch the cpu socket(LGA) if you even bend one pin in that thing you will loose all warranty from the board maker.
March 23, 2013 11:25:59 AM

OK guys, I would really like to thank you for the replies and especially nukemaster

I took everything major out such as GPU etc and switched the PSU with my very old 250W one just to see if it will run correctly, it did and it is 100% PSU issue

I will get a proper 700-850Watts PSU and this surely will fix my problem :) 

Thanks again guys.
a c 111 à CPUs
March 23, 2013 11:56:36 AM

You technically do not need 700-850 watts a quality 500-600 should work as well, but having extra never hurts.

Just make sure it is a good quality unit.
March 23, 2013 12:41:21 PM

Just ordered an EVGA PSU SuperNOVA NEX750G Gold 750W for e115 :)  Will be with me on Wed/Thur

What you think of it? I have an EVGA 660TI so that is the reason of my choice - will look cool :D 
!