Help out a noob

Siwi

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Mar 24, 2013
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Hi there! So, I'm kinda new at this whole computer building thing, but I decided I'd try to build a good gaming computer, and now I'm asking your opinion on this build. I was aiming for ~450€, but I've clearly failed. I was thinking of lowering some specs, but I don't really know....so that's why I'm asking you.

Fan thingy: ARCTIC COOLING Alpine 11 PRO Rev.2 10,75€
Optical thing for burning stuff: ASUS DVDRW 24X SATA - DRW-24B5ST 19€
CPU: INTEL Core i5 3350P 3.10GHz 6MB Socket 1155 BOX 165€
Graphics Card: ASUS GeForce GTX650 1GB DDR5 PCI-E - GTX650-E-1GD5 107,50€
Mother of all boards: ASROCK Z77 PRO3 89€
Hard drive: SEAGATE 1TB SATA III 64MB 7200 RPM - ST1000DM003 69€
Memory thing: AMD Performance Edition KIT 8GB 2X4GB DDR3 1600MHz CL8 56,75€

Total: 536€

I've got the OS and the monitor covered. Please let me know what you think of this build.
Thanks in advance!
 


Since you bought the 3350P you are not going to overclock so get a H77 board instead of the Z77 board. That should lower you cost a bit. Also if they have it the CoolMaster Hyper 212 EVO is a great budget cooler and will be cheaper than the Alpine and work fine. Other than that I don't see a case or power supply. For power supplies buy Antec, Corsair, PC Power and Cooling, Seasonic, or XFX.
 

masterman467

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Oct 17, 2012
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Get an i3 and a 660 or 660ti if you can spend that much (IDK how much it is in Euro so find the price yourself) because right now, you have too good of a CPU for that GPU. you will get better fps from a lower CPU and higer GPU.
Also, check the link below, its in USD but you can convert to Euro
 

Siwi

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Mar 24, 2013
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Alright, so now I have asrock h77m, the CORSAIR VS350W VS Series and a question. So for the CPU, what really matters is the GHz and the MB, correct? If the MB are the same, does .10 GHz make much difference? Oh, and about the case, I already chose one but forgot to put it on the list, but it doesn't matter. If there's one thing I'm good at, it's picking cases :D And thanks for you feedback!
 

marshallbradley

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Sep 24, 2012
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No you won't notice a difference of 0.1 Ghz. The important thing about CPUs is the architecture. All i5s of the same generation have the same architecture, so are all fairly close in performance really. The motherboard has no effect on performance (unless you overclock) only the features available (SATA 3 and USB 3.0 for example).

350W is not really going to pull it. I'd recommend you get something of at least 500w, maybe a Corsair CX 500w builder series if you can?

I'd follow the advice above by masterman and downgrade to an i3-3220 and spend more on a faster GPU (660/660 Ti if you want nVidia or 7850/7870 (XT) for AMD).

M
 

Siwi

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Mar 24, 2013
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So what matters the most on the power supply is the Watts, right? There's actually a cheaper one with 500W (NOX Urano SX 500W), but people say Corsair's better.
Actually there are LOTS of cheaper power supplies with 500W. Why's Corsair different?
 
Here is a German build. what country are you from? It includes a power supply but for 450 no way a 660ti goes in there.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: Intel Core i3-3210 3.2GHz Dual-Core Processor (€111.87 @ Amazon Deutschland)
CPU Cooler: Arctic Cooling Alpine 11 Pro Rev. 2 36.7 CFM Fluid Dynamic Bearing CPU Cooler (€8.90 @ Caseking)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H77M-D3H Micro ATX LGA1155 Motherboard (€76.90 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (€49.00 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€58.89 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Video Card: XFX Radeon HD 7770 1GB Video Card (€99.90 @ Caseking)
Power Supply: XFX ProSeries 450W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply (€44.90 @ Caseking)
Total: €450.36 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.) (Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-03-25 02:47 CET+0100)
 

marshallbradley

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Sep 24, 2012
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Cause Corsair is high quality. DO NOT buy cheap power supplies (or rather low quality), that is the number 1 classic noob error :p People think they aren't important or whatever cause they don't affect the performance really. Quite the opposite: it's the one part of the PC that can (if it goes wrong) easily break nearly every other part of the PC by supplying too much voltage. It's like the engine of a car, you don't put a cheap engine in a brand new body.

Stick with something from Antec, SeaSonic or Corsair. There are other brands that have certain good units, and some worse ones (OCZ for example) but I wouldn't risk it, just stick with the tri-force so to speak, and you can't really go wrong.

EDIT: The above build is good. Only thing I'd change is 2x4 GB memory -- like you have in your original build -- instead of 1x8. That way you get dual-channel mode, which means the memory has twice the bandwidth. If you want to stick to your original 450 budget, it's true you really aren't going to be able to get a 660 Ti. The 7770 is still a very decent card though, and is much, much faster than the GTX 650 (more like a 650 Ti really). I think a 7870 would be best though, if you can stretch your budget that little bit extra. (XFX power supplies are made by Seasonic by the way, which is why they get recommended a lot).

M
 
Here is an AMD solution using stock cooler. It is slightly over budget but gets to a 7870.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks
CPU: AMD Athlon II X4 640 3.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (€66.78 @ Hardwareversand)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-78LMT-USB3 Micro ATX AM3+ Motherboard (€55.55 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix sport 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR3-1600 Memory (€49.00 @ Amazon Deutschland)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 500GB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive (€49.90 @ Caseking)
Video Card: HIS Radeon HD 7870 2GB Video Card (€197.96 @ Hardwareversand)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply (€57.90 @ Caseking)
Total: €477.09 (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.) (Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-03-25 03:00 CET+0100)

To marshallbradley:
You are right about the power supplies. Add XFX (made by Seasonic) and PC Power and Cooling to that list. I meant to pick a 2x4 memory but must have clicked on the next one.

On the Intel build, you can drop the cooler. You aren't going to overclock and they cool just fine.
 

Siwi

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Mar 24, 2013
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So how about this "ASUS ATI HD7770 DC 1GB DDR5 "?
Also, I don't think ordering computer parts from Amazon is a good idea, I'd much rather buy them from a local store and pay a little extra (which is what I'm doing).
 


Buying from a local store is great. I believe in helping the local economy. You hav an Intel and AMD build to model from and you have an idea of what to buy to stay in budget. Expect to pay a little more so you will get less performance from your rig. Stick with an Antec, Corsair, PC Power and Cooling, Seasonic or XFX power supply. Don't settle for anything less.
 

Siwi

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Mar 24, 2013
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Alright, so I think I've got everything. Thanks everyone!!!
Next is gonna be the big step: Actually building it (oh, I just KNOW I'm gonna blow something up)
I just wanted to ask one last thing: How was your first experience with building a computer? Was it hard? How long did it take? Did you fry something (I know I will)?
 


I started by replacing parts. One computer I replaced so many parts that the case was the only thing I hadn't replaced. After that I knew I could build my own,

Make sure you have a nice open area, I use the dining room table with a plastic table cloth.
Make sure you have plenty of time. Plan on taking a day. Don't start late at night.
Stay organized. Get some shallow bowls to put the smaller screws in.
Ground yourself by touching something metal that is grounded. The screw on an outlet plate works fine. Don't drag your feet on the carpet.
Watch some youtube videos and right down some steps.
http://arstechnica.com/gadgets/2011/04/how-to-build-your-own-computer-ask-ars-diy-series-part-i/
 

marshallbradley

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Sep 24, 2012
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It was fine, not too bad, I didn't read instructions or anything (don't follow my lead...). I just put stuff where it fit lol. I installed the motherboard without standoffs, which didn't break it (somehow). That was about it really. The most dangerous part is probably installing the CPU, its very easy to bend pins if you don't have a steady hand. On an Intel system this can make your motherboard just junk (the pins are on the CPU for AMD). Otherwise its just plugging stuff in really.

Just take your time and read up so you know what you're doing. As long as you are patient and careful, it will turn out fine.

In terms of how long it takes, that depends entirely on the final product you want to achieve. My sig rig for example is still in the process of being nodded and sleeved. To get it up and running shouldn't take you more than 2-3 hours though.

All the best,

M