[New Build] Budget 2000 Dollars.

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Oonej

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Hi community of TH,

Approximate Purchase Date: e.g.: Within the next few weeks. Depending how long it takes to stop being picky and commit. :)

Budget Range: (e.g.: <2000.00) After Rebates; After Shipping

System Usage from Most to Least Important: Programming (C# / Java), Gaming (Minecraft / SimCity / League of Legends / Etc), Watching TV Shows, Graphic Design, Animation, etc.

Are you buying a monitor: Possibly. I do need another (27") making a total of 3

Parts to Upgrade: new build.

Do you need to buy OS: Yes (Preferably Windows 7 Home Premium or similar)

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: newegg preferably since I've always loved their service and never any issues. But not apposed to others.

Location: City, State/Region, Country - Tampa, FL

Parts Preferences: Intel / Radeon / Asus

Overclocking: Probably not

SLI or Crossfire: Maybe, If you guys can convince me its worth it. My build below is assuming crossfire.

Your Monitor Resolution: 1920x1200

Additional Comments: The quieter the better. My old rig is too noisy.

And Most Importantly, Why Are You Upgrading: Its time, not only a present for graduation but my rig is about 5-6 yrs old and my girl needs a computer (so she gets my old one).

Include a list of any parts you have already selected with descriptively labeled links for parts. Please do not post only links.

The easiest method is to paste the label on one line and then paste the link below it.

Below is my current build. Although its above my budget... Trying to reduce it without reducing too much performance. This is without a monitor as that is last priority right now.

http://pcpartpicker.com/p/MDfx

 
Solution
Swordkd
I agree about Crossfire being overkill for 1080 gaming. I came up with:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($299.95 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($89.98 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LE ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($128.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Sniper Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($114.72 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: OCZ Agility 4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card:...
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johnvonmacz

johnvonmacz

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Spending $200+ on mouse and keyboard is unnecessary and impractical. Drop the MX-2 Thermal Paste. NH-D14 has one included and better. You don't need the Sabertooth Z77. The Thermal Armor it has is more of a gimmick and in most cases does the opposite to what it supposed to be. The 2133mhz RAM is not worth it IMO. A 1600-1866mhz is more than enough. I chose the 830 SSD over the 840 because the 830 uses MLC nand compared to 840's TLC nand which has a low write times and lifespan compared to MLC which has a longer lifespan and more writes. Always remember that latest doesn't mean the best ;) But that's not the case in Windows 8. Lots of benefits in getting Windows 8, faster boot times, Memory/RAM efficiency and lots of other benefits in gaming. If you hate the METRO UI, just download Start8 and it will bring back the start button. So I tweaked your build and came up with this:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($229.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V PRO ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($199.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: G.Skill Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($93.50 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card (2-Way CrossFire) ($297.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card (2-Way CrossFire) ($297.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Wireless Network Adapter: Rosewill RNX-N180UBE 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter ($22.41 @ Amazon)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Titanium Grey) ATX Mid Tower Case ($118.79 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: XFX ProSeries 850W 80 PLUS Silver Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($122.75 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Asus BW-12B1ST/BLK/G/AS Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 Professional (OEM) (64-bit) ($129.98 @ Outlet PC)
Keyboard: Logitech K100 Wired Slim Keyboard ($10.15 @ NCIX US)
Mouse: Cooler Master SGM-2001-BLON1 Wired Optical Mouse ($23.35 @ Amazon)
Speakers: Logitech S-150 1.2W 2ch Speakers ($11.34 @ Amazon)
Total: $1938.17
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-03-27 19:01 EDT-0400)

So you still have extra cash to spend on a nice 27'' Monitor :)
 
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photonboy

photonboy

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Quick points:

1) The NH-D14 does not have PWM fans therefore fan speed can not be controlled. Most motherboards now only support PWM speed control so I'd look at a good PWM cooler.

2) Windows 8 64-bit. YES! *but I recommend getting Start8 from Stardock.

3) BluRay drive:
- make sure the FIRMWARE is up to date
- consider the M-Disc models
(I recommend the LG WH14NS40 model. I bought my dad this to archive pictures to M-Disc).

4) Speakers.
This will depend on how important audio is, but get at least $50 stereo speakers with good customer reviews.

5) CROSSFIRE:
*This is the biggest area you need to investigate.
a) overkill for the GAMES you mention
b) investigate the advantage, if any, to the software you use (you said "graphics design but not the software)

**You really need to read about AMD's Crossfire and Eyefinity support:
http://www.amd.com/us/products/technologies/amd-eyefinity-technology/how-to/Pages/faqs.aspx

6) NOISE:
a) Graphics Card - consider a single 3-slot Asus HD7970, HD7950 or GTX 670/680 (if they also meet your monitor requirements and are the best choice for the software you use).

b) CPU cooler - has PWM fans (spend about $30 to $60)

c) motherboard - has PWM fan control for CPU and Case Fans

d) Case
- quiet fans, or can replace with PWM fans
- cable management (on right side)
- graphics card FITS (IMPORTANT!)

e) Power Supply:
750Watt PSU is optimal for noise/value with a good CPU and HD7970/GTX680. Noise in a PSU is at a minimum until about 50% load then ramps up so never get a 550W PSU for this type of setup.


Summary:
- *main issue is your choice of GRAPHICS CARDS. I don't recommend Crossfire or SLI.
- investigate if your software benefits from an NVidia 600 vs AMD HD7000 card.
- choose parts carefully for NOISE (PWM fans/support, graphics card etc.)
- TAKE. YOUR. TIME.
 
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photonboy

photonboy

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Update, re Windows 8:

*Windows 8 64-bit is superior to Windows 7 64-bit. One advantage is that Secure Boot (when paired with a UEFI BIOS motherboard) can eliminate boot-time viruses that sneak on your system (such as key-logging malware that record every key you press).

So buy Windows 8 64-bit OEM, and then get Start8 from Stardock to bypass the new interface for now. I can't stress enough how much more secure Windows 8 is than previous versions.

I'm not sure if all Z77 1155 motherboards support UEFI (possibly) but double-check that this is the case. I agree that $140 is all you need to spend on a good Asus ATX Z77 1155.
 
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Swordkd

Swordkd

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I agree about Crossfire being overkill for 1080 gaming. I came up with:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i7-3770K 3.5GHz Quad-Core Processor ($299.95 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Corsair H80i 77.0 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($89.98 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Asus P8Z77-V LE ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($128.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: G.Skill Sniper Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($114.72 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($89.99 @ NCIX US)
Storage: OCZ Agility 4 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte Radeon HD 7970 3GB Video Card ($399.99 @ Newegg)
Wireless Network Adapter: Netgear WNA3100M-100ENS 802.11b/g/n USB 2.0 Wi-Fi Adapter ($24.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Fractal Design Define R4 w/Window (Black Pearl) ATX Mid Tower Case ($129.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: OCZ ZT 750W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($69.98 @ Outlet PC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8 Professional (OEM) (64-bit) ($129.98 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $1673.53
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-03-27 21:53 EDT-0400)

You were wanting an emphasis on a quiet enclosure, and the Fractal is one of the better ones. I used the side-window equipped one because who doesn't want to show off their build? You can always opt for the non-windowed model and it would be even quieter. The included Cpu cooler is mainly for its effectiveness and less sound output. I didn't include keyboard, mouse, monitor or speakers, as I feel that those are mainly a matter of personal preference.
 
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Oonej

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I like your build a lot. Question though. I was looking into Raid 5. Think its worth the trouble / extra hd's? I heard numerous reports but not sure.
 
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johnvonmacz

johnvonmacz

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It doesn't hurt if he ever decided to get 7950's in crossfire especially if he can afford it. Cuz if ever he decided to try more intensive games like BF3, Bio Infinite, Crysis 3 and etc, then crossfire really helps. He can also have the option to turn off crossfire if he will play lower intensive games like League, minecraft cuz one 7950 can easily max that out.Also, drivers were totally improved in the past few weeks so the reliability of crossfire setups have been improved. Just enable crossfire on graphically intensive games like the one I mentioned. NH-D14 is still the best air cooler right now especially if you decide to overclock. I might be biased but I feel that water coolers are more hassle and may cause leak and will affect other parts if that happened.
 
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masterman467

masterman467

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Hes going to push 3 screens. Do you even read the OP?


CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 65.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($114.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill NS Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 830 Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($159.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 670 4GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($419.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 670 4GB Video Card (2-Way SLI) ($419.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Cooler Master HAF 922 ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair Builder 750W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($73.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NS95 DVD/CD Writer ($17.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($139.99 @ Newegg)
Keyboard: Corsair Vengeance K60 Wired Gaming Keyboard ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Mouse: Corsair Vengeance M65 Wired Laser Mouse ($72.98 @ Newegg)
Speakers: Logitech S-150 1.2W 2ch Speakers ($19.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $2122.82

The VRam is really needed at high res, and look up the benches of the 7950 vs the 670, the 670 is much faster.

>Im assuming someone with 2k to blow on a pc is going to run high quality games on it. if not, i can build one for under 1k that will do everything you listed in the OP.
 
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photonboy

photonboy

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RAID5:

It's difficult to answer without knowing exactly WHY you're doing this, but my recommendations are more like this:

1) SSD (non-Raid) for Windows.
*Then make a periodic backup IMAGE of this SSD in case of virus, SSD failure.. Always keep the first backup (in case viruses creep in later) and make sure the Windows installation has been Activated so you can restore without wasting an Activation.

2) RAID1:
Since the SSD is getting backed up in Step#1, all that remains is regular backup of other critical data/programs that are on the hard drive. Personally, I have a 2x3TB RAID1 setup. If one of the drives fails, I would replace it (i.e. RMA) then insert the replacement and have the RAID auto rebuild.

Parts involved:
1xSSD, 2xHDD

Software involved:
Acronis True Image 2013 (I use an automated backup solution. Weekly. It does FOUR incremental updates, then DELETES older backups. Small learning curve. Again, keep your first backup solution always.)
 
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Swordkd

Swordkd

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Ok, so the difference in 1920x1080 and 1920x1200 is minimal. That is his stated resolution. Did you read the original post? If I was going to recommend a crossfire solution, I'd skip the 7950's, and just go for two 7970's. If you are spending that much money to begin with, why attempt to save less than 200 dollars on 2 video cards?

I don't know much about raid 5 honestly, so I won't even attempt an answer. As an addition to my other post, I originally had it set up for a Crossfire solution, so that PSU is more than enough to handle two 7970's. OCZ is a solid brand and that PSU is also modular. I've personally had good luck with that brand of PSU.
 
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photonboy

photonboy

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Just to confirm:

Are you GAMING on all three monitors or just one?

If we're talking ONE then then choosing the graphics solution is fairly simple (I advise the 3-slot Asus HD7950). If gaming is on all three then it's more difficult:
- are the games listed the only ones you intend to play and HOW well do they perform in benchmarks? (roughly HALF the framerate for three monitors instead of one).

- SLI is superior to Crossfire overall (number of titles supported and average performance, including stutter issues)

*I'm no expert (I linked the FAQ page for Crossfire/Eyefinity), so maybe someone can answer this question:

"Can you use a 2xCrossfire solution AND 3xEYefinity at the same time?"
 
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Oonej

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No - I don't game across all three monitors. I program a lot, so I use the three monitors for that. One monitor runs my IDE, the other 2 usually run either FTP setup, Graphic Design software (ADOBE, MAYA, ETC), Web browsers, chat programs, movies, etc...

The games listed are just my typical games. I'm always open to play others.
 
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Oonej

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http://pcpartpicker.com/p/MI6I

This is my current build thus far. Just looking for a few more opinions and wrap up this dispute about getting 2 vid cards or not :)

I'm guessing since I didn't really pick any exhaust fans, this is something I should do. Looks like the chosen case has 2 top mount 120MM, so quiet fans would be nice. Researching them now. :)
 
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C

CarolKarine

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get the i7 3770k, the asus HD 7970 ghz, a samsung 840 pro, a 150 USD or less 1155 mobo, a 700/750w PSU from antec, corsair, seasonic, or OCZ, some harddrive (I suggest western digital) a blu-ray drive, and a case of your choice w/ some NF-F12's from noctua (bad colors but incredible fans) I suggest a silencio case because they come with noise reduction foam on the sides)
 
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TenPc

TenPc

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Well, for $2000, you could get two decent computers, one for the gaming, TV and the other for your apps.

Pc users usually say that an i5 is best for gaming and an i7 is best for cpu intensive apps like programming, animation etc.

Also, if one PC carks it, you got the other one to use.
 
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Oonej

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Lol nifty idea, but I dont need 2.

 
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TenPc

TenPc

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If you stick to the one PC, after gaming, better to restart the PC before doing any cpu intensive work, a restart will reset and clear the memory (and vice-versa) for everything otherwise, you might find your animation or programming rather laggy (sluggish).

THe good thing about 2 computers is that while the work PC is compiling an animaion or video, you can go and play a PC game. You only need one monitor if you use a KVM monitor switch box, swtich between PC's.

Also, although an SSD is faster, it doesn't have a great deal of volume, you could have the OS on the SSD and your apps and programs but not for your games, especially Steam games that can be as large os 20 gb in size. You would also need to change the path of the temp files and Saved files so you are not bogging down the SSD whic will need to maintain a minimum of 25% free space for optimim performance. I'd do away with the SSD, have a slower, better paced boot up with a 2TB Sata hdd. With each extra hdd you have, the boot up is slower so you really don't get that extra speedy boot up with the SSD, the system has to also take into account of the extra hdd's.

Turn off indexing to all other drives (not OS hdd) to increase performance.
 
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Swordkd

Swordkd

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On your current build, you have the non-3770k CPU selected. That's fine, but if you aren't interested in overclocking, save some money and go with a lesser watercooler, a Hyper 212 evo heatsink/fan, or just use the stock heatsink/fan. Save up some money. I'd highly recommend getting the "k" version however. No better performance at stock speeds, but the ability to overclock and gain performance easily is well worth the added cost.

Also, if you stick with the 100i cooler, there is no need to get fans for your top mounted slots. That is where the radiator will go. They've done multiple tests on many sites and there really isn't a reason to change out the included fans with Corsair 100i. The included software for fan speed management is supposed to be really top notch as well.
 
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Oonej

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I mainly want quiet. The overclocking is a possibility but i've never really seen the need to do so. My computer should be able to run anything i need it for pretty well.

the K version might work, was just trying to reduce the price a bit.
 
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Swordkd

Swordkd

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Of course, that's fine. If that is the case, then drop down to something like the Hyper 212 Evo cooler for around 33 dollars. Only uses a single fan and is leaps and bounds above the stock cooler. The stock cooler might be fine, but I don't really trust it. Then spend some money on a couple of quiet case fans for the top, or just run without. Your system should be fairly cool enough as is.
 
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photonboy

photonboy

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The stock cooler is actually horrible. It's noisy even in idle.
*Make sure to get a PWM fan on the CPU cooler. I've heard good things about this one:

"Cooler Master Hyper 612 PWM"

*Graphics card:
You still haven't established whether an NVidia card (CUDA) would benefit you in some of the graphics software you mentioned you use. Adobe Premiere for example can benefit from the GTX600 series but NOT the AMD HD7000 series. (It's more complicated because you have to HACK a few things to force GPU acceleration on the GTX600 series but there's lots of support out there).

If you don't have time to research that, then it sounds like you're set on an HD7000 series.

**The following card is probably the QUIETEST card in its class due to its 3-slot cooler. I have the 680 equivalent and its truly awesome:
http://us.ncix.com/products/?sku=68755&vpn=HD7970%2DDC2%2D3GD5&manufacture=ASUS

THIS CARD SUPPORTS UP TO SIX DISPLAYS!!!
 
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photonboy

photonboy

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DISPLAYPORT:

If you don't have a Displayport monitor, I suggest your third monitor support both DVI and Displayport. I think you can buy adapters (Displayport to DVI) but since you don't already have a third monitor its best to get that built in.

So on the above Asus HD7970 you would connect your current monitors to the two DVI ouputs but additional monitors (up to four more) are via Displayport as indicated in the picture.
 
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