If it fits, It ships (New build)

Souped · Apr 2, 2013

(See final build lower in the thread)

About to pull the plug. First time building a rig and I don't know if all the parts will fit. The mother board needs to be Thunderbolt capable (All my data is on external thunderbolt hard drives) and the case must be CORSAIR GRAPHITE 600t because... I like it.

Approximate Purchase Date: When it fits, It ships... (this week)

Budget Range: Functional performing machine (lower than 1700$... 170 000 Yen)

System Usage from Most to Least Important: Gaming, Media entertainment machine of envy, heater during winter, occasional streaming

Are you buying a monitor: No

Do you need to buy OS: No

Preferred Website(s) for Parts: Amazon.jp

Location: Japan, Fukushima

Overclocking: Yes

SLI or Crossfire: Yes, eventually I might add a second GTX 670

Your Monitor Resolution: 2x 23 inches 1920x1080 (Might eventually get a 3'rd one if I get a second GTX 670).

CPU: Core i5 3570K 3.4GHz 6M LGA1155 = 21,634 Yen

(http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B007SZ0E1K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_10?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AN1VRQENFRJN5)

Heatsink: Hyper 212 EVO = 3,305 Yen

(http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B006Z25F5C/ref=ox_sc_act_title_7?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AN1VRQENFRJN5)

MoBo: GIGABYTE INTEL Z77 LGA1155 ATX Thunderbolt = 14, 844 Yen

(http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B008JA2RR2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AN1VRQENFRJN5)

RAM: CORSAIR DDR3 1600MHz 8GB 2x240 DIMM Unbuffered 9-9-9-24 Vengeance = 6,980 Yen

(http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B004CRSM4I/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2SLCPU63Z4C25)

GPU: Gigabyte Geforce GTX 670 (2gb) = 36,269 Yen

(http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B00B1AWDBW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AN1VRQENFRJN5)

Storage (SSD): Samsung SSD840 250 gb = 16,647 Yen

(http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B009VSOHBU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AN1VRQENFRJN5)

Storage (HDD):Seagate 3.5inch 2.0TB 7200rpm 64MB = 7,600 Yen

(http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B009KX65YI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AN1VRQENFRJN5)

DVD drive: 1,791 Yen

(http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B009QWVP5W/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AN1VRQENFRJN5)

Power Supply: Corsair 80 PLUS gold, 650W, 140mm = 13,450 Yen

(http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B008NJGS5Q/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ASHYIZMZMAAPP)

Case: CORSAIR GRAPHITE 600t = 15,247 Yen

(http://www.amazon.co.jp/gp/product/B004O0PAKW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_9?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AN1VRQENFRJN5)

Concerns and worries:
- Will the ram fit with the Motherboard?
- Is the Motherboard wide enough to fit the CPU+Heatsink and eventually 2x GTX 670's in sli?
- Will all of that fit in the case?
- Is the power supply strong enough? Overclocking and eventually adding a second GPU?

DarkSable · Apr 2, 2013

You're golden, but just a few things:

1) If you're going to add a second GPU in the future, step up to a 750w unit - if not, then step down to a 550w.

2) I personally dislike Gigabyte's quality control AND their customer service for graphics cards; consider EVGA or ASUS.

3) Finally, I have experience with Seagate Barracudas, and dislike them. They tend to run hot and noisy - I'd go with a western digital blue or black, which remedies those problems AND comes with better warranties.

getochkn · Apr 2, 2013

That is huge RAM with a big heatspreader on it. Not sure how close the slots are and how the EVO is, but they are big chips. I got one I have to RMA, died after 2 months.

burritobob · Apr 2, 2013

1) Ram is fit with ease, the CPU cooler is not that large
2)Yes it is wide enough
3)If you do not fit it in there you are doing something horribly wrong
4)PSU is enough for 1 670 and OC you will need 850w (or 800w) to be safe with 2x670 and OC

Souped · Apr 2, 2013

DarkSable :

First of all, I really appreciate the feedback... As it's the first time I get into this... I'm a bit worried that the parts wont fit, that the case (Medium size) would be to small.

1) Will check out for a 750W unit, would you have any recommendations?
2) The reason why I went with Gigabyte is that I just finished reading the "Seven Solid GeForce GTX 670's Tom's Hardware review)" and that's the best bang for the buck according to them.

(http://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/geforce-gtx-670-test-review,3217.html)

3) As for the HDD, I'll look into it, if you have any specific recommendations, I'd be happy to look into them!

Thanks again!

Souped · Apr 2, 2013

burritobob :

Oh wow 850W Power Supply! Any recommendations? Haven't looked into those at all...

burritobob · Apr 2, 2013

Sticking to the golden rule of PSUs Corsair XFX Seasonic or Antec will steer you straight into the right direction and you really only need 800w unless you can find one of those brands carrying an 850w that is cheaper (which does happen from time to time)

DarkSable · Apr 2, 2013

Souped :

That's a great case, and it'll work perfectly. As for the power supply, any 750w of a reputable make will work fine - corsair does one for a reasonable price. Just remember that it doesn't have to be gold rated - silver or bronze, as long as it's a reputable brand, will work just as well.
(Also, burritobob is wrong here - as long as it's a quality 750w power supply, it'll run two 670s and an overclocked i5 with ease.)

As for the price / performance, gigabyte might win, but that article doesn't take into account the quality of the parts used over long-term nor the warranty, which are the two reasons I suggest you go with a different brand. I personally would go with Asus, or EVGA if you aren't overclocking the cards themselves.

Souped · Apr 2, 2013

burritobob :

Found this one: Corsair 850W CMPSU-850TXV2JP that is cheaper than the initial 600W one!!!

(http://www.amazon.co.jp/CORSAIR-CMPSU-850TXV2JP-ネイティブケーブル採用-TXV2シリーズ850W電源/dp/B004TTZ7JW/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A24LI6FBWVP5BM)

gity69 · Apr 2, 2013

Your ram should work with that motherboard. Standard mid-tower case everything should fit fine. Overall a good build in my opinion. When you do go for SLI I would say 750W PSU at the minimum it would probably be better to go for 800W.

burritobob · Apr 2, 2013

DarkSable :

800w is much safer, and you can add other parts that you may want, 750w is the BARE minimum...

Onto the GPU brand debate... the gigabyte card is the best for the money and has better parts than most. Also you give an asus card of all brands (the most overpriced) which has the best cooler out of any of them for not overclocking? That just seems flawed to me. The EVGA card cannot compare to the Gigabyte card in terms of factory overclock and overall value. With plenty of room for a GPU overclock you really cannot beat the deal of the gigabyte card.

Souped · Apr 2, 2013

DarkSable :

Souped :

That's a great case, and it'll work perfectly. As for the power supply, any 750w of a reputable make will work fine - corsair does one for a reasonable price. Just remember that it doesn't have to be gold rated - silver or bronze, as long as it's a reputable brand, will work just as well.
(Also, burritobob is wrong here - as long as it's a quality 750w power supply, it'll run two 670s and an overclocked i5 with ease.)

As for the price / performance, gigabyte might win, but that article doesn't take into account the quality of the parts used over long-term nor the warranty, which are the two reasons I suggest you go with a different brand. I personally would go with Asus, or EVGA if you aren't overclocking the cards themselves.

Valid concerns! Should I look into overclocking the GPU's? Since they are factory overclocked I didn't think it would make much of a difference...

DarkSable · Apr 2, 2013

burritobob :

I've run two 670s off of a single gold-rated 650w unit. You have to keep in mind that while 750w of current is the bare minimum, a 750w power supply of good quality is going to be just fine with two cards, an overclocked processor, and whatever hard drives, sound cards, or other extremities you might be interested in.

As for brands, I give Asus for if the OP is overclocking, and EVGA for if he/she isn't. They're just suggestions because they're reliable and offer good warranties.

1) There is NO room for a significant overclock on a Kepler card. (read: an overclock that gets significant differences while gaming which requires a voltage boost.)

2) I have already concecded this point, but you are correct: The gigabyte card DOES have a better cooling solution and a better factory overclock. (though the original EVGA FTW with the 680 PCB is nothing to smirk at) What it doesn't have is bloody amazing quality control, a warranty that covers overclocking, OR customer service that's willing to do anything for you. I value the ability to modify my card, screw up and burn it out, and have a new one within a week far more than I do a higher factory overclock.

Souped :

The 600 series of graphics cards is about the most hideous bit of electronics to overclock the world has ever known. I'd honestly rather have saved my sanity, as it's a several hour process, and the gain is under 50Mhz.

Souped · Apr 2, 2013

DarkSable :

Thank you for the detailed answer. Warranty should be a concern for any buyer. And I truly appreciate all the feedback I'm getting. Although I first wanted to make sure this build was "Dumb Noob Mistake Proof", I'm getting much more out of this post than I initially thought would come out of it.

I've also been looking through the vast interwebz to get more info on the overclocking of the Gigabyte card and I stumbled onto this: http://www.hardocp.com/article/2012/07/25/gigabyte_geforce_gtx_670_oc_video_card_review/3#.UVuQQL_67H1

It looks pretty simple, and the gains, at least for some games are pretty impressive. What do you think Mr.FoncéSand (Dark in french is Foncé, Sable is french for Sand)?

DarkSable · Apr 2, 2013

Souped :

Glad we could help - sorry if it gets confusing. Ask a group of 12 nerds a question about computers and you'll get a dozen different answers back.

The trouble with overclocking the gigabyte is that they're doing both the core clock and the memory clock at once. Basically the way overclocking a Kepler chip works is like this:

1) Overclocking the core: "Well... I can increase my base speeds by a small percent of my original clock... but I can't go any higher than that because I'm voltage locked. Wait! There's a new BIOS - I'll try flashing to that and see if it lets me increase my voltage while hoping that it doesn't brick my $300 graphics card. (A month passes) Wait, all kepler reference cards are capable of running at 1.21v, and the 1.175v is just a display error... so I took the risk of ruining my card for nothing."

2) Overclocking the VRAM: "Hey, this works just like overclocking my memory... and it gives the same benefits! Some games get huge performance gains because they were bottlenecked by it, and some games couldn't care less. At least I can get a somewhat decent overclock before I have to worry about voltage."

Souped · Apr 2, 2013

DarkSable :

Souped :

Glad we could help - sorry if it gets confusing. Ask a group of 12 nerds a question about computers and you'll get a dozen different answers back.

The trouble with overclocking the gigabyte is that they're doing both the core clock and the memory clock at once. Basically the way overclocking a Kepler chip works is like this:

1) Overclocking the core: "Well... I can increase my base speeds by a small percent of my original clock... but I can't go any higher than that because I'm voltage locked. Wait! There's a new BIOS - I'll try flashing to that and see if it lets me increase my voltage while hoping that it doesn't brick my $300 graphics card. (A month passes) Wait, all kepler reference cards are capable of running at 1.21v, and the 1.175v is just a display error... so I took the risk of ruining my card for nothing."

2) Overclocking the VRAM: "Hey, this works just like overclocking my memory... and it gives the same benefits! Some games get huge performance gains because they were bottlenecked by it, and some games couldn't care less. At least I can get a somewhat decent overclock before I have to worry about voltage."

Thank you again! I'm starting to understand a bit better now. And I just noticed your signature... I'm building something pretty comparable to what you have! First hand advice! I like it!

DarkSable · Apr 2, 2013

Souped :

Yep! I used to have a huge water-cooled monstrosity with a pair of 670s in it...

Then I went to college and realized I needed something more portable.

So now I have a small water-cooled monstrosity with a single 670.

Souped · Apr 2, 2013

DarkSable :

Until recently I was aiming for a 3000-3500 machine, wanting to massively over clock it and custom watercool it (May I remind you that this is my first time doing this). One thing that really appealed to me was the construction part, to assemble everything, to overclock everything, to personalize it. And... I mean putting water in an electronic heavy machine is just... Playing with fire (water), but Oh so exiting.

I realized I really didn't need that much power... And as I have many hobbies, other than gaming, I figured something more reasonable was in order. (This build) That I'll be able to upgrade if need be...

DarkSable · Apr 2, 2013

Souped :

Haha, yeah, we've got an enthusiast on our hands, haven't we? Be careful of the day you discover the joys of modding - you'll drop $1000 on power tools (or rather, power toys) before you can even blink.

Souped · Apr 4, 2013

About to pull the plug 3 hours until I order!! Here is the final component list... What do you think? Will all work? And which tools should I get to assemble everything?? Using Amazon JP comes up to 145 000 Yen. Am I missing anything? (First time building)

Intel CPU Core i5 3570K 3.4GHz 6M LGA1155 Ivy Bridge
CoolerMaster CPU RR-212E-20PK-J1 (Hyper 212 EVO)
GIGABYTE INTEL Z77 LGA1155 ATX Thunderbolt
Kingston 8GB 1600MHz DDR3 Non-ECC CL9 DIM
GIGABYTE Geforce GTX670 2GB PCI-E GV-N670OC-2GD/A -
Samsung SSD840250GB MZ-7TD250K/IT
Seagate 3.5inch 2.0TB 7200rpm 64MB SATA3.0 ST2000DM001/N
DVD-RAM/±R/±RW対応 SATA5inch DVD Drive SH-224BB+S
CoolerMaster 850W RS850-SPHAD3-JP (Silent Pro Hybrid 850W)
CORSAIR GRAPHITE CC600TWM-WHT

DarkSable · Apr 4, 2013

Souped :

All you're going to need is a single screwdriver.

I still strongly recommend you change out that Seagate Barracuda for a Western Digital Blue, as it'll be cooler, quieter, and have better performance and warranty.

You only need a 550w unit, which will be more than enough to power what you have there. If you foresee yourself adding a second 670 down the line, get a 750w unit.

Do you really need thunderbolt on your motherboard? How much is that motherboard? If it's more than $150, then it's an absolute waste - consider an AsRock z77 Extreme 6, which will perform exactly the same and be much cheaper.

And, of course, I don't care for the pick of a Gigabyte 670, as they tend to be built less well and have poor customer service, but that's entirely up to you. (Yes, they're the best performing, but like I said, they use lower quality parts where they can.)

Souped · Apr 4, 2013

DarkSable :

Ok changed the harddrive for this one: WD Blue 3.5inch 7,200rpm 1.0TB 64MB SATA3.0 WD10EZEX/N
As for the PSU, I'm planning on adding a second GPU. The thing is that they seem to have a limited selection on Amazon JP... So that power supply is cheaper than the 750 unit I found...

Ah thunderbolt... Well as I explained earlier, most of my data is saved on a thunderbold HardDrive (Music, pictures, all my steam apps). You're making me question my choice! [strike]I guess I don't necessarily need it as I'll still be keeping my rMBP. So... Ok Changed the MOBO[/strike] (Cross that!) I checked and the prices actually favour the Thunderbolt MOBO!

Then for the GPU... I took your considerations into account... Truly I did... But Both Asus and EVGA are 50$ more than the Gigabyte... So Yeah...

THe part I'm worried about is the Ram... Is that any good? THe selection is really scarce, I don't know why...

PS: Screwdriver what size? What head? Do I need anything else? I don't want to receive all the parts and be missing anything to set the computer up! What about a anti-shock wristband?

DarkSable · Apr 4, 2013

Good pick on the hard drive, and if that power supply is actually cheaper, then by all means go for it - the reason I was suggesting what I was was to save you money.

Ahh, my bad - I missed that you had an external thunderbolt drive. (And your pricing must be way wonky; usually you have to pay an insane premium for a motherboard with thunderbolt on it.)

They're about that much for normal pricing ranges, too. I personally see it as worth it, but only because I've had a few very bad run ins with gigabyte QA and customer service. That's one I would really consider.

As for the RAM, it's pretty good, but it's non error correcting, which is something to avoid if possible - error checking ram will save you a lot of crashes and BSODs.

Just a normal Phillips, any regular size. You won't need specialty tools for this.
Your heatsink comes with thermal paste, so you're good there. I would consider a handful of zip ties if you don't have them, for cable management.

As for an anti-shock wristband, they're just placebos. Instead, what you want to do is install your power supply first, and screw it in. Plug it into the wall, but make sure the switch on the back is disabled. Then, as you're building the computer, every few minutes, touch the power supply or any bare (non-painted) metal of the case. It'll ground you through the metal, into the wall, which will prevent any mishaps.

Souped · Apr 4, 2013

DarkSable :

Good pick on the hard drive, and if that power supply is actually cheaper, then by all means go for it - the reason I was suggesting what I was was to save you money.

Ahh, my bad - I missed that you had an external thunderbolt drive. (And your pricing must be way wonky; usually you have to pay an insane premium for a motherboard with thunderbolt on it.)

They're about that much for normal pricing ranges, too. I personally see it as worth it, but only because I've had a few very bad run ins with gigabyte QA and customer service. That's one I would really consider.

As for the RAM, it's pretty good, but it's non error correcting, which is something to avoid if possible - error checking ram will save you a lot of crashes and BSODs.

Just a normal Phillips, any regular size. You won't need specialty tools for this.
Your heatsink comes with thermal paste, so you're good there. I would consider a handful of zip ties if you don't have them, for cable management.

As for an anti-shock wristband, they're just placebos. Instead, what you want to do is install your power supply first, and screw it in. Plug it into the wall, but make sure the switch on the back is disabled. Then, as you're building the computer, every few minutes, touch the power supply or any bare (non-painted) metal of the case. It'll ground you through the metal, into the wall, which will prevent any mishaps.

Your help is greatly appreciated!
I found this for the ram... It cheaper but is it any better?! A-DATA XPG Gaming series DDR3-1600 (4GB×2) 240pin Unbuffered DIMM AX3U1600GC4G9-2G

DarkSable · Apr 4, 2013

Souped :

Still not amazing, but it's better. Have any other options? Even 1333 would be decent.

If it fits, It ships (New build)

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