Overclocking Amd Phenom ii x6 1055t

Hello, i have done quite a bit of research on overclocking, but i'm still not sure about it. My question is, can you overclock the AMD Phenom II x6 1055t to 3.2/3ghz just by bumping the FBS? My reason is that i just bought a GTX 660 TF and my processor is bottlenecking me in some games.

My specs:

Mobo: ASRock N68 GS3 UCC
GPU: MSI GTX 660 TF OC Edition
CPU: AMD Phenom II X6 1055t
PSU: Ace 700w
Cooler: Stock cooler :(

If i cant OC just by bumping the FBS, is there a stable build i can use to get to 3.2ghz? I dont want to get to 4, or even 3.8, but i really want to get to 3 :(.
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  1. Yeah bud, should be pretty easy. What type of RAM do you have? (Make/Model/Speed/Latency)

    Move your FSB up to 230. Move your RAM multiplier down to get it as close to it's rated speed as possible. Also for now move the North Bridge multiplier to get it as close to 2000MHz as possible. Same of the HT if applicable.

    Give your new CPU clock a stress test. I recommend Prime95 Blend test for an hour. If you get any failed cores, freezing, BSOD, or other errors, chances are you need to raise your CPU voltage. Keep going up one increment at a time until the errors stop.
  2. I have 8GB DDR3 Ram (pretty sure)

    Would this be possible with my bios? I really dont wanna touch voltages either.

    How do i check what RAM i have? dont think i have the box or manual.
  3. Thornbird116 said:
    I have 8GB DDR3 Ram (pretty sure)

    Would this be possible with my bios? I really dont wanna touch voltages either.


    This IS to be done in BIOS. That is the best way to do it. And sorry, but if you don't want to touch voltages then you don't want to overclock. You can try to run the chip at 3.0-3.2GHz with no voltage bump but chances are it's not going to work.

    EDIT: I missed the part where you said you have a stock cooler. I strongly recommend not overclocking.
  4. Really? Not even to 3ghz?
  5. It depends if you need a voltage bump or not.

    To make a CPU run faster than the speed it was intended to, more often then not requires feeding it more power (voltage). When it's fed more voltage, naturally it will produce more heat. That's why it's important to have effective cooling to dissipate this heat efficiently and quicker (better cooling). The stock cooler is not very good, AMD made it to pretty much scrape by on stock settings without overheating.
  6. Stress testing for 5 mins with Prime95, and my temp is currently 46C (115f).
  7. Thornbird116 said:
    Stress testing for 5 mins with Prime95, and my temp is currently 46C (115f).


    Set your FSB to be 215 and run the test, check for temps. I would do a Custom test. Set FTTs min: 8, max: 64, memory: 80% of your unused memory (check task manager for available memory and use 80% of it). This will generate max temps within half an hour and is pretty stressful. If you can pass for a few hours then you're good to go.

    I have the same CPU (1055t) in one of my machines. It really doesn't like to go over 55C. AMD claims 62C is the max, but it will start to act up around 55C.
  8. in 3.2 ghz use stock still safe, but that need disable fan CPU in bios for safely, set as possible Vcore manual at 1.22-1.25 if get lucky .. that can boot or no increase anything just FSB 230., but alway's keep your eye at temperature max 55C don't over :D .. i don't recomend overclock if your temp get 60C under stress test

    i guest your mobo is low end .. hmmm you will get trouble if get hot
  9. What is the speed of your RAMs ?

    1600MHz = system clock sweet spot at 240MHz

    1333MHz = system clock sweet spot at 250MHz

    You simply drop the memory divider back ONE notch, raise the clock as above, and your RAMs will be running spec speed.

    This will also raise your IMC/NB speed (good) and your HT Link speed (bad). You need to keep your HT Link speed at 2000MHz (or as close as practical).
  10. I'm probably not going to overclock. I was playing a CPU intensive game like Planetside 2 for 2 hours or so and my computer is extremely loud and temps are at 52C, will probably need a better cooler before i attempt any of this, but i just bought a new GPU so not for a while. xD
  11. Actually, the 1055T is quite an efficient clocker. The most important aspect is disabling Turbo.

    Instead of running 14x200MHz, you simply adjust the CPU multiplier downward to off-set the bump in clock speed. This tends to release stress on the CPU and better share load with the motherboard. Using the above example ...

    12.5x250MHz boosts your overall clock speed by more than 10%, and raises the IMC/NB from stock 2000MHz to 2500MHz (Important!). This in itself will increase memory bandwidth 7.5-10%, and reduce latency 7.5-10%. It provides quite a boost in gaming.

    Also ... in order to keep volts and temps down, you should simply disable two cores (or more!). This also has the added benefits of 1) Better sharing the 6MB of L3 cache between the operable 4 (or less!) cores; and 2) Helps eliminate the phenomena known as 'core-hopping'
  12. Wisecracker said:

    Actually, the 1055T is quite an efficient clocker. The most important aspect is disabling Turbo.

    Instead of running 14x200MHz, you simply adjust the CPU multiplier downward to off-set the bump in clock speed. This tends to release stress on the CPU and better share load with the motherboard. Using the above example ...

    12.5x250MHz boosts your overall clock speed by more than 10%, and raises the IMC/NB from stock 2000MHz to 2500MHz (Important!). This in itself will increase memory bandwidth 7.5-10%, and reduce latency 7.5-10%. It provides quite a boost in gaming.

    Also ... in order to keep volts and temps down, you should simply disable two cores (or more!). This also has the added benefits of 1) Better sharing the 6MB of L3 cache between the operable 4 (or less!) cores; and 2) Helps eliminate the phenomena known as 'core-hopping'



    I just couldn't give up. I went back into the bios, and this time changed everything. My multiplier was still 14, but my CPU Frequency was 250, I had to notch down my ram one bit to keep it to 1333mhz, and the NB was 2000. One little hitch, I couldn't get the HT ( i think thats what it was) to 2000, it would only go to x5 - 1250. I had disabled Turbo Core, and disabled Cool and Quiet. I was pretty sure it was going to work, but had a moment of doubt and chickened out. :( felt so good to see 3.5ghz, but didnt have the guts to run it. Any tips on the settings i was going to run it on?
  13. Thornbird116 said:
    Wisecracker said:

    Actually, the 1055T is quite an efficient clocker. The most important aspect is disabling Turbo.

    Instead of running 14x200MHz, you simply adjust the CPU multiplier downward to off-set the bump in clock speed. This tends to release stress on the CPU and better share load with the motherboard. Using the above example ...

    12.5x250MHz boosts your overall clock speed by more than 10%, and raises the IMC/NB from stock 2000MHz to 2500MHz (Important!). This in itself will increase memory bandwidth 7.5-10%, and reduce latency 7.5-10%. It provides quite a boost in gaming.

    Also ... in order to keep volts and temps down, you should simply disable two cores (or more!). This also has the added benefits of 1) Better sharing the 6MB of L3 cache between the operable 4 (or less!) cores; and 2) Helps eliminate the phenomena known as 'core-hopping'



    I just couldn't give up. I went back into the bios, and this time changed everything. My multiplier was still 14, but my CPU Frequency was 250, I had to notch down my ram one bit to keep it to 1333mhz, and the NB was 2000. One little hitch, I couldn't get the HT ( i think thats what it was) to 2000, it would only go to x5 - 1250. I had disabled Turbo Core, and disabled Cool and Quiet. I was pretty sure it was going to work, but had a moment of doubt and chickened out. :( felt so good to see 3.5ghz, but didnt have the guts to run it. Any tips on the settings i was going to run it on?


    Go down to Best Buy and get the "Rocketfish Universal CPU Cooler". It's a Coolermaster TX3 that's been rebadged with a Rocketfish stamp (Best Buys house brand). It's $20, and it's good for 3.5GHz on that CPU. Especially if you pick up two decent 92mm fans and run them in push/pull. The cooler comes with brackets for dual fans. It's a really decent cooler for the price. I fold 24/7 on my 1055t @ 3.5GHz, max temp 44C.
  14. stickg1 said:
    Thornbird116 said:
    Wisecracker said:

    Actually, the 1055T is quite an efficient clocker. The most important aspect is disabling Turbo.

    Instead of running 14x200MHz, you simply adjust the CPU multiplier downward to off-set the bump in clock speed. This tends to release stress on the CPU and better share load with the motherboard. Using the above example ...

    12.5x250MHz boosts your overall clock speed by more than 10%, and raises the IMC/NB from stock 2000MHz to 2500MHz (Important!). This in itself will increase memory bandwidth 7.5-10%, and reduce latency 7.5-10%. It provides quite a boost in gaming.

    Also ... in order to keep volts and temps down, you should simply disable two cores (or more!). This also has the added benefits of 1) Better sharing the 6MB of L3 cache between the operable 4 (or less!) cores; and 2) Helps eliminate the phenomena known as 'core-hopping'



    I just couldn't give up. I went back into the bios, and this time changed everything. My multiplier was still 14, but my CPU Frequency was 250, I had to notch down my ram one bit to keep it to 1333mhz, and the NB was 2000. One little hitch, I couldn't get the HT ( i think thats what it was) to 2000, it would only go to x5 - 1250. I had disabled Turbo Core, and disabled Cool and Quiet. I was pretty sure it was going to work, but had a moment of doubt and chickened out. :( felt so good to see 3.5ghz, but didnt have the guts to run it. Any tips on the settings i was going to run it on?


    Go down to Best Buy and get the "Rocketfish Universal CPU Cooler". It's a Coolermaster TX3 that's been rebadged with a Rocketfish stamp (Best Buys house brand). It's $20, and it's good for 3.5GHz on that CPU. Especially if you pick up two decent 92mm fans and run them in push/pull. The cooler comes with brackets for dual fans. It's a really decent cooler for the price. I fold 24/7 on my 1055t @ 3.5GHz, max temp 44C.


    I've read that the CPU can go to 3.5 with a stock cooler. Just to be sure I could go down to 3.2, because i'm on a really tight budget for the computer, seeming i just spent £170 for the new GPU and another £27 for the new PSU. Do you think the settings i've applied were good? Would the computer run?
  15. You need to try to get HT to x8 with a 250MHz bus speed. But overclocking is entirely trial and error. What works on my 1055t almost certainly will not work the same on your 1055t, and vice versa. You just gotta go for it. You PC will turn itself off if the CPU gets too hot.
  16. My HT can only go to x5? Also how to disable some of the cores? That was mentioned earlier by wisecracker.
  17. Thornbird116 said:
    My HT can only go to x5? Also how to disable some of the cores? That was mentioned earlier by wisecracker.


    What games do you play, there's a few games that like the cores, but most games would be better with 2-4 faster cores.

    I should be in advanced settings, most BIOSes are different so you will just have to poke around and find it.
  18. I apologize for misleading you :D I forgot it's an 'old' nVidia chipset.
    Put your HT link at 4x -- you need to keep it close to 1000MHz as possible when over-clocking.

    In the OC Tweaker Menu, you should set the *PCIE Frequency* to 100MHz and disable all the *Spread Spectrums*

    That's it. That leaves you with multiplier and voltage settings.

    You cannot disable Turbo, nor can you disable any cores via your BIOS. Bummer.

    Here's the deal with Turbo on the 1055T -- under certain loads it will add 2.5 to your CPU multiplier on up to 2 cores, while down-clocking the multiplier on your other cores. So ... if you run 14x250MHz, there will be loads where 2 cores will be running 16.5x250MHz! That's actually not a problem (except, maybe, on your motherboard!) as I've run 14x300MHz on all cores (with C&Q, but without Turbo) with my 1055T on a Gigabyte mobo.

    To be safe, as you were advised above, you should sneak up on it. Start at 12.5x250MHz ... understanding that you will Turbo at 15x250MHz!

    Test for stability and temps ... as long as you don't hit 60C, you may bump the multiplier .5 and test again. If you crash or BSOD, simply bump the VCore +0.0125 and take another run at it.

    Do you know how to reset your CMOS?
  19. Wisecracker said:

    I apologize for misleading you :D I forgot it's an 'old' nVidia chipset.
    Put your HT link at 4x -- you need to keep it close to 1000MHz as possible when over-clocking.

    In the OC Tweaker Menu, you should set the *PCIE Frequency* to 100MHz and disable all the *Spread Spectrums*

    That's it. That leaves you with multiplier and voltage settings.

    You cannot disable Turbo, nor can you disable any cores via your BIOS. Bummer.

    Here's the deal with Turbo on the 1055T -- under certain loads it will add 2.5 to your CPU multiplier on up to 2 cores, while down-clocking the multiplier on your other cores. So ... if you run 14x250MHz, there will be loads where 2 cores will be running 16.5x250MHz! That's actually not a problem (except, maybe, on your motherboard!) as I've run 14x300MHz on all cores (with C&Q, but without Turbo) with my 1055T on a Gigabyte mobo.

    To be safe, as you were advised above, you should sneak up on it. Start at 12.5x250MHz ... understanding that you will Turbo at 15x250MHz!

    Test for stability and temps ... as long as you don't hit 60C, you may bump the multiplier .5 and test again. If you crash or BSOD, simply bump the VCore +0.0125 and take another run at it.

    Do you know how to reset your CMOS?




    Ok, so last night i OC'd to 3.5ghz, but when i saved my monitor wouldnt pick up any signal. I was shit scared xD, i turned off the mains and tried again, and this time it worked, and i got a BSOD while loading the desktop. Then i rebooted but the monitor wouldnt pick up any signal, i tried switching off the mains 2 times, until it finally worked. I set the BIOS back to default. Today, i have managed to boot, and am typing this on 3.2ghz. I will do a stress test after finishing posting. One weird thing, i set my RAM to 613 mhz DDR3 1280 or something like that, and instead of running at 1280mhz im only running at 613. The highest i could go to was only like 1080mhz, but that would make it DDR3 1800 or something crazy. Any thoughts?
  20. Ok failed Prime 95 in less than 2 mins?

    Says FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected less than 0.4?
  21. that means you need to raise the voltage or lower the frequency.
  22. stickg1 said:
    that means you need to raise the voltage or lower the frequency.


    No voltage raising please, would much rather lower frequency
  23. Thornbird116 said:
    stickg1 said:
    that means you need to raise the voltage or lower the frequency.


    No voltage raising please, would much rather lower frequency


    Then lower the FSB. Also you have 1600MHz RAM correct? Try to adjust the RAM multiplier to keep your frequency at or below 1600MHz so we can rule out RAM instability.
  24. stickg1 said:
    Thornbird116 said:
    stickg1 said:
    that means you need to raise the voltage or lower the frequency.


    No voltage raising please, would much rather lower frequency


    Then lower the FSB. Also you have 1600MHz RAM correct? Try to adjust the RAM multiplier to keep your frequency at or below 1600MHz so we can rule out RAM instability.


    I have 1333mhz ram, and i gave up since the monitor stopped picking up the signal every time i OC'ed
  25. With DDR3 1333 the *sweet spot* for the system clock is 250MHz. Instead of running your RAMs at stock 667/1333 (6.67x200MHz=1333MHz), Your RAMs should be at 533/1066. The result is ...

    5.33x250MHz= 1333MHz

    Remember that your RAMs are *double-pumped* When CPUz reports 613MHz, your RAMs speed is actually 1226MHz. Fooling around with the math ....

    1226MHz / 5.33 means you have your system clock at 230MHz.

    How'd I'd do?

    :D
  26. Wisecracker said:

    With DDR3 1333 the *sweet spot* for the system clock is 250MHz. Instead of running your RAMs at stock 667/1333 (6.67x200MHz=1333MHz), Your RAMs should be at 533/1066. The result is ...

    5.33x250MHz= 1333MHz

    Remember that your RAMs are *double-pumped* When CPUz reports 613MHz, your RAMs speed is actually 1226MHz. Fooling around with the math ....

    1226MHz / 5.33 means you have your system clock at 230MHz.

    How'd I'd do?

    :D



    How come i failed the CPU-Z though when it was running stable at 3.2ghz? it said FATAL ERROR: Rounding error was 0.5, expected 0.4
  27. henydiah said:
    :D


    Please, master. I need to learn. xD
  28. your target max is 3.2 ghz .. no more ... if you want over than that get better motherboard + CPU cooler after market first .. just a suggestion .. good luck brother
  29. henydiah said:
    your target max is 3.2 ghz .. no more ... if you want over than that get better motherboard + CPU cooler after market first .. just a suggestion .. good luck brother


    I dont wont anything above 3.2, i was happy with that. The thing is i couldn't pass the Prime95 Blend on it because it said FATAL ERROR: Rounding was 0.5, expected 0.4
  30. is your CPU 95W or 125W ??
    already given a good guide from Wisecracker
  31. henydiah said:
    is your CPU 95W or 125W ??
    already given a good guide from Wisecracker


    My cpu is 95w i think, since it works with the MOBO. Any ideas on why my monitor fails to recognize a signal after a OC?
  32. clear CMOS ! .. unplug power AC from PSU , find jumper clear cmos ( remove battery mobo) let @minute
  33. Thornbird116 said:
    henydiah said:
    is your CPU 95W or 125W ??
    already given a good guide from Wisecracker


    My cpu is 95w i think, since it works with the MOBO. Any ideas on why my monitor fails to recognize a signal after a OC?


    All that means is the settings were unstable. Thats why you need to clear the CMOS if the PC fails to post. You're going to have to raise that voltage man. If not then try for 3.0GHz, but you still may need a voltage bump. While there are thousands of 1055t's, not a single one is the same.
  34. The 1055T Thuban hexcore is 125w.

    REMEMBER: When you are running 14x230MHz, your Turbo is 16.5x230MHz, or 3.795Hz!

    Don't be afraid to bump your VCore in +0.0125v increments to find stability. As long as your temps stay below 60C.

    Your HT link speed should be set on 4x on your nVidia chipset!
  35. Wisecracker said:

    The 1055T Thuban hexcore is 125w.

    REMEMBER: When you are running 14x230MHz, your Turbo is 16.5x230MHz, or 3.795Hz!

    Don't be afraid to bump your VCore in +0.0125v increments to find stability. As long as your temps stay below 60C.

    Your HT link speed should be set on 4x on your nVidia chipset!



    I booted into 3.2ghz, and have been running Prime95 for 1 hour now, according to Razer Game Booster my CPU is 56C, my mobo is 73C, Video card is 43C and Hard disc is 50C

    I know it's not ideal, but is it safe?
  36. Weird, i just checked and CPU-Z says that my CPU is only running at 1.7ghz with a clock multiplier of 7.5. Is this a protection to stop from overheating?
  37. Ok, confirming that my processor runs at 3.2ghz stable while idle, and at 1.7ghz under load? Is there a fix for this?
  38. Thornbird116 said:
    Ok, confirming that my processor runs at 3.2ghz stable while idle, and at 1.7ghz under load? Is there a fix for this?


    Thermal throttling perhaps? Use a real monitoring program.

    HWinfo64
    http://www.hwinfo.com/download64.html
  39. stickg1 said:
    Thornbird116 said:
    Ok, confirming that my processor runs at 3.2ghz stable while idle, and at 1.7ghz under load? Is there a fix for this?


    Thermal throttling perhaps? Use a real monitoring program.

    HWinfo64
    http://www.hwinfo.com/download64.html


    Seems to be that the minute it goes above 51C on the CPU, it throttles it
  40. I checked in the BIOS, and thermal throttling was on. I'm going to keep it that way because it's better safe than sorry, right? xD

    Also, I realized that the side of my case (where all the heat escapes from) was backed up against a wall. I have moved the position of my computer and now the heat can escape, hopefully it wont reach 50C again. If it does, ill go back to stock and wait until i get a new cooler.
  41. Back in stock settings, and my CPU still throttles when its over 50C. I didn't think it would reach 50C with stock but apparently it does. I'm now pretty tempted to remove thermal throttling, or just find a way to move it so that it throttles at 55 instead of 50, but i cant find that option in my BIOS. Would putting a house fan on the side where the heat escapes be a good idea? I'm going to clean out dust on my fan later on. Also, in my BIOS I have put it so that my max temp should be 45, but it still goes to 50C.
  42. Any suggestions?
  43. second plan get new highend mobo
  44. Not much you can do until you get a decent mobo and cooler.
  45. Can someone explain how airflow works, because I'm pretty sure thats the issue. My hard drive is getting close to 50C, because i think its very hot in my case, and the hot air has nowhere to go.
  46. What is the make and model of your case?

    Basically you want cool air blowing in to the case with fans, then warm air being pushed out of the case with fans.
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