Will my computer build work?

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warthog396

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Apr 7, 2013
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Hello, I'm trying to assemble my first computer for gaming and I just feel unsure about ordering all of these parts to find out I made a costly error. All input would be greatly appreciated thank you.
(edited and updated)

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: AMD FX-8320 3.5GHz 8-Core Processor ($164.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($137.86 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($106.25 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card ($349.99 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Ghost (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($111.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224BB DVD/CD Writer ($17.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1114.03
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-04-08 00:40 EDT-0400)

Is there anything that I am missing or should change? Let me know, Thank you!
 
Solution
If you aren't overclocking, you want an intel system.

You also only need 8GB of ram, which is enough to run battlefield 3, photoshop, and 30 tabs in chrome, all at once.

You only need a 550w power supply, and you want windows 7 over windows 8 for compatibility with older games.

Finally, go with a 670 over a 680. The 680 is only 5% faster, but costs 25-30% more - that means you're paying $100 for about 5 frames per second more... which doesn't even make ANY difference when you consider that both cards max games on a 1080p, 60Hz monitor without blinking.

So I'd go with something like this, which will be about the same price, have the same gaming performance (or better in CPU-bound games), and has an SSD for windows. (I also changed...
You do not need a different cooler if you don't intend to OC. Also, if you don't intend to burn Blu-rays you can get a Blu-Ray combo drove for less money (to watch Blu Rays, DVD, or CD and be able to burn DVD/CD).

The RAM (16GB) is overkill; 8GB is plenty for gaming, also the power supply is overkill unless you plan to use multiple video cards in SLI/|Crossfire. With money saved here you could upgrade the HDD or add an SSD as boot drive.
 
If you aren't overclocking, you want an intel system.

You also only need 8GB of ram, which is enough to run battlefield 3, photoshop, and 30 tabs in chrome, all at once.

You only need a 550w power supply, and you want windows 7 over windows 8 for compatibility with older games.

Finally, go with a 670 over a 680. The 680 is only 5% faster, but costs 25-30% more - that means you're paying $100 for about 5 frames per second more... which doesn't even make ANY difference when you consider that both cards max games on a 1080p, 60Hz monitor without blinking.

So I'd go with something like this, which will be about the same price, have the same gaming performance (or better in CPU-bound games), and has an SSD for windows. (I also changed the tower to a slightly cheaper one which will be absolutely silent.):

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3470 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($149.99 @ Microcenter)
Motherboard: ASRock H77 Pro4/MVP ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($82.55 @ Newegg)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.98 @ Outlet PC)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($94.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card ($379.99 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Ghost (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($98.98 @ Outlet PC)
Power Supply: SeaSonic G 550W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224BB DVD/CD Writer ($17.98 @ Outlet PC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $1125.42
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-04-07 23:30 EDT-0400)
 
Solution

Geef

Distinguished
The stuff looks like it will work fine. I did find a few small things.
1. A computer case with a door. It might LOOK cool but if you are ever changing your dvds or doing other stuff that requires open/close door it might be a bother to you.
2. Make SURE your case is big enough to fit your video card and everything else. (I once bought a case that was too skinny and had to get another to be able to close it all the way.
3. You might want to consider getting yourself a Blu-Ray drive also if there is any chance you will be watching movies on your computer.
4. I saw the case has USB plugs on the top end but you might also want to get a flash memory/card reader for stuff like memory cards from cameras.
 

warthog396

Honorable
Apr 7, 2013
6
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10,510
Here are my changes including the changes you made. You made a lot of good points, what do you think?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: AMD FX-8320 3.5GHz 8-Core Processor ($164.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-990FXA-UD3 ATX AM3+ Motherboard ($137.86 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($106.25 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($74.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 670 2GB Video Card ($349.99 @ Newegg)
Case: BitFenix Ghost (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($111.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair CX 500W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V Power Supply ($59.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Samsung SH-224BB DVD/CD Writer ($17.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1114.03
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-04-08 00:37 EDT-0400)



 

JD88

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Feb 25, 2013
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11,660
The compatibility risk with Windows 8 is very exaggerated. I've never encountered any problems and I play some games that were around as far back as the mid 1990's. Go with it over 7 just for the improvements and faster boot time. You won't regret it.
 


Again, buying 16GB of ram is simply wasteful - you're never going to need 8GB, much less 16.

Other than stating again that the intel system will have a large advantage if you aren't overclocking at all, I can say that it looks good.

 
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