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Opinion about first Water Cooling unit - Page 2

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a c 138 K Overclocking
April 11, 2013 3:42:59 PM

I'll be waiting.
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a c 176 K Overclocking
April 11, 2013 5:19:23 PM

2nd on getting extra tubing. When I built my loop I got 2m, which was enough to cover what I had at the time. But I ran out during upgrades later on, and was forced to use the clear tubing that came with my kit (always good to have a backup :D ). I imagine since your importing your water-cooling stuff from the UK, just buying tubing because you ran out would end up costing more in postage than the tubes worth, so it might be worth stocking up a fair bit.

I would actually recommend you go with 7/16" ID tubing if you were using 1/2" barbs, the tubing is 1/16" smaller than fitting but will still go on, so you get a really tight seal.
However, that would play havok with Compression Fittings, as the OD would expand being on a slightly too big fitting and would make putting on the ring difficult.
With Compression fittings, gotta make sure both the ID and OD match with the tubing.

Cant wait man, always good to see more people slide into insanity getting into water-cooling!
and +1 to the build log, its always good to have more guinea pigs...

EDIT: With the fan controller, if you intend to control multiple fans on the one channel, you need
- A fan cable splitter of some kind.
- A more powerful fan controller, thing can only put out 10W. Mine can go up to 50W (which is actually enough to run a pump off :) ).

I suggest having a look at manual fan controllers (sliders and dials, not digital displays), they typically are a lot more powerful.
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April 11, 2013 9:54:44 PM

Thanks! Does the 7/16" tubing make a lot of difference to the 1/2" tubing or why do you recommend it? :p  And yeah the shipping would probably cost more than the extra meter of cable.

I'm actually planning on doing 5 fans so 1 for each channel. (3 from the radiator, one 120mm from the back and one 230mm in the front)
And a bonus, it looks good with the digital display :D 

I haven't really digged into fan controllers yet. Do I plug all of my fans in to the fan controller and it gives them the power? So no need to plug them in to the motherboard.

In the picture below I noticed there is a USB wire, so guess that's going to the motherboard and it's used to control the fans from my desktop. I'm guessing those yellow things are some kind of temperature sensors? Where are they supposed to go? :D 

Being dumb in the mornings is one of my things!
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a c 138 K Overclocking
April 11, 2013 10:04:09 PM

Nice picture.
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a c 176 K Overclocking
April 11, 2013 11:20:33 PM

I believe I explained why in the post above.

Fans plug into controller, controller plugs into PSU. You then control them using the digital screen.

What picture?
But anyway, I assume that USB cable has something to do with the internet capability of the fan controller (seems completely pointless to me). It does have temperature sensors yes, you can literally stick them wherever you want. I would advise putting one at the front 230mm fan, so that way you know ambient temperature so you can correctly judge your Delta.
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April 12, 2013 2:44:59 AM

Did I say I tend to be dumb after I wake up? Well looks like that's true :D  I forgot to link the picture.

Here it is:

After reading your statement about why you recommend it another time with fresh eyes I realized that it gives really tight sealing so it would be good. But yeah I'm planning on getting compression fittings so I think I'm good with 1/2" tubing :)  also it makes it easier to plug the tube to the pump.

I don't really get the internet control either (or even more the smartphone!). I do have a Windows Phone but I don't see the point in controlling my fans when I'm not even home using the computer...

Well I guess it's one more pointless app to the world of smart phones.
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a c 138 K Overclocking
April 12, 2013 10:29:27 AM

Does the fan controller have USB ports on it? That would be the reason for the USB plug so it can be plugged into a USB header on the motherboard. The temperature sensers are placed on the components that you want to monitor the temps of. Such as the CPU , the GPU , the RAM, chip sets on the MB. Anything that you want to monitor the temps of that you would want to increase a fan speed to help cool down that component.
For example if you have two fan controllers controlling two or three fans on the CPU radiator and the temps start to rise on the CPU during gameplay or stressful application then you can increase fan speed to add cooling power to the radiator to get the liquid a bit cooler and try to cool the CPU a bit more.

If you were going to leave your computer on 24/7 and had a lot of things that were controlled by it you could monitor what's going on when your at work, like if you had some web cams hooked up you could look at the inside of your house while at work to make sure everything is ok.
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April 12, 2013 11:08:45 AM

I don't think there's any USB ports in the controller. And the Shinobi XL already has 4 USB3 ports on top where I have my mouse, keyboard and external HDD. Also for my smart phone there's the yellow Supercharger port which should fill up the battery of my phone faster than normal USB.

Can't wait until next week! :D 
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April 13, 2013 1:48:48 AM

Would this be a good power supply?

http://www.jimms.fi/tuote/SST-ST60F-PS

There's good amount of data and Molex connectors. Basically I want a new PSU because of the cable management. Modular cables :) 
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a c 176 K Overclocking
April 13, 2013 1:53:14 AM

I'v got the 750W version of that PSU. If the 600W is anything like the 750W, its a very good unit.
Definitely buy, in Australia at least its a great bargain.

I'v heard that the Silverstone cables are also really easy to sleeve as well.
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a c 138 K Overclocking
April 13, 2013 11:16:20 AM

The Silverstone is a very good brand and as you can tell by the price, good quality. The Corsair is a good budget brand and will perform well for the price , some of the Corsair models are made by SeaSonic which is a top quality PSU manufacturer. They also make PSUs for XFX. I like buying Seasonic PSUs because your buying a product made by a company that specializes in just making PSUs. They can be more expensive but as they say you get what you pay for and SeaSonic is a solid PSU.
When buying a PS people will tend to say get only what you need and there's no point in getting a bigger PSU then what you need. Well I disagree with that because you are the one buying it and you should buy what you want. Do I need a 1250w PSU? Maybe not but that's what I wanted so that's what I bought and I am very happy with it. Buying a bigger then what you need only means that you have the extra watts there if you need them, it doesn't mean that your using the extra.
So when your thinking of getting a new PSU just get what you want and get a good brand that's reliable.
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April 13, 2013 11:44:44 AM

With only one GPU I think I don't need much more watts than 600. You have 2x680 GPU so I would have bought 1200 watts myself as well.

I think I'm gonna go with the Corsair one since it's a little cheaper.

By the way I did my first acquisition for my project today: Samsung 840 SSD 120GB. That was because it was on sale and the price was good in my opinion :) 

I already had the Crucial m4 but two isn't too much. Which would you prefer to have as boot drive? I have Windows 8 and it boots in about 5 seconds so I don't think the Samsung would be much faster.
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a c 138 K Overclocking
April 13, 2013 11:52:38 AM

I would keep it on the Crucial M4. the Samsung 840 will not do any better and will be good for a secondary drive.
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a c 176 K Overclocking
April 13, 2013 4:39:06 PM

For Inzone's rig, I would have probably gone for an 850W supply. 1200W units are only really for people who are going to quad Crossfire/SLI.

If Windows is already on the M4, wouldn't bother moving it over to the 840. Too much hassle for such little gain.
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a c 138 K Overclocking
April 13, 2013 5:32:01 PM

If I use the power supply calculator and enter in what I have or most of it I get a recommendation of 900w. Thing is you can't see what I have for water cooling. Plus I guess I shouldn't say that I have a second PUS powering the water cooling system.

A 1200w PSU is for anyone that wants to buy one.

http://extreme.outervision.com/PSUEngine This is what I used for the wattage calculator.
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a c 176 K Overclocking
April 13, 2013 5:38:12 PM

Guessing from what I'v seen of your loop you would have two pumps, maybe about 12-16 fans (I'm assuming you push/pull here)?
20W a pump (typical D5 or DDC draw), maybe 3W a fan, ~88W for the water-cooling alone. Yea, maybe the 900W would be worth it :lol: .

But I digress, where the hell did you fit a 2nd PSU in a HAF-X?!
Or is it just ghetto mounted to the outside of the case and you just cut a hole to run a molex line?
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a b K Overclocking
April 13, 2013 5:54:28 PM

Hay now that is exactly what I did with my secondary PS, and I have a 1250W main and a 635W as a secondary and it works fine. In fact I would say that buy having a power supply that is not maxed all the time while running a load will lead to it lasting longer than one that is forced to run at it's max ability's because it is only large enough to handle the load being applied to it.

A good example of this is the 535W Enermax PS that I had for three years and Enermax replaced that PS 3 times in that time period at the end of it and on the forth replacement of the PS, Enermax sent me a 635W PS that I still have and use today that was 8 years ago.

It is not that my system asked for more than that PS could offer but I was maxing its capabilities out and as a result of that the PS burned out prematurely.
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a c 138 K Overclocking
April 13, 2013 6:00:07 PM

Most of the water cooling along with the second PSU is in the desk beneath the case which sits on top looking pretty. I have 3 pumps 14 fans with 6 of them the 120mmx55mm Feser Triebwerk low speed high static pressure fans. Those 6 fans on a 80mm thick 360 radiator will not fit in any case.
I have a separate push button switch (Vandal on/off) that turns on the water cooling system and then the regular push button (Vandal momentary) to start the computer. This way I can run the water cooling without disconnecting anything.
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a c 176 K Overclocking
April 13, 2013 6:07:19 PM

Ahh, you'v got the business end of the water-cooling outside the case. Have you got a build log or something? Just I would like to see it.
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a c 138 K Overclocking
April 13, 2013 6:18:26 PM

I don't have a build log as such , but I do have some pictures which I can send you in a Pm. It appears we have the same case although mine looks very different now.
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a c 176 K Overclocking
April 13, 2013 6:23:03 PM

If you could send those pictures it would be great, from the few I'v seen its pretty beast. Same case, but yea, probably modded into something else entirely by now.
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April 14, 2013 1:02:48 AM

I've used that psu calculator as well. It gave me 411w with my current setup and 455w with my modded. So I'd say 600w is enough for me. There's also some room if I decide to upgrade some components in the future :) 
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a c 138 K Overclocking
April 14, 2013 9:59:31 AM

It is always a good thing to have some extra room because you really don't know what you may end up doing 6 months or so from now and to add a PSU upgrade as well will just make it more expensive.
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April 14, 2013 10:57:49 AM

Yeah. And now I can use the second PSU to test my water cooling loop so I don't need to unplug the cables because I can just unplug the whole PSU which is powering the other components :) 

By the way out of curiosity, how long have you been building your rig? I did a quick look at my local shop and based on your components you have spent well over 3,000 euros on that :D  plus your custom loop!

That's my salary of 3 months. I'm upgrading one component at a time. Soon I might be able to switch all of my storage to SSDs but first my plan is to get a motherboard with 1155 socket and i5 processor. There I have room to upgrade to i7 when the time comes.
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a c 138 K Overclocking
April 14, 2013 1:13:15 PM

Newegg has a real nice feature for people that have signed up for a preferred account. If you make a purchase of $250 min then you can take 6 months to pay it with no interest charged as long as you make a min monthly payment and it's paid off in 6 months. If you spend $500 min then the same thing applies except it's for 1 year. I try to buy all the parts that I can from Newegg , the only draw back is they don't have much of a selection of water cooling parts. So I buy those parts from PerformancePcs.com and FrozenCPU.com.

It's always good to plan ahead if you want to end up with a better high powered computer and you have to start out with something less, so to avoid wasting money get certain parts that you would have a hard time selling and go for a higher model then the other parts that can be easily sold you can get something now and sell it later.
For example take what we have been talking about, a power supply and if it's a hard thing to sell then get one that will work with what you plan to end up with. A CPU, GPU , RAM and MB are all easy to sell and therefore you can get something less now and sell it later.
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April 15, 2013 8:14:56 AM

Ah nice! I'm looking to order some of the components from Finland and some from UK. Going to see the lowest prices for each component.

I'm going to change all of the non-LED fans to LED fans in my case. Including the 230mm in the front.

Can this dye be harmful to the loop? http://www.specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Mayhems-Dy...

According to the description it sounds very safe to use with distilled water and if I'm going to change it every 6 months or so (suggests 9-12 months).

I know my tubing is already green but I'd love to see how the laser green color affects it and also when it's in the reservoir the green looks good.

By the way you said you have 3 pumps in your loop, inzone. Is that really necessary? :p  also I'd like to see some pics too if you could show me :) 
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a c 138 K Overclocking
April 15, 2013 9:50:25 AM

The dye can tend to stain the tubing and reservoir, however your using the green colored tubing to begin with so there's no need to worry. I doudt that you can see anything in the tubing because when you buy colored tubing it's a solid color and not transparent at all.
I use three pumps because I want to and because the 360mm radiator is in the desk beneath the case and I just had an extra pump so I decided to use it. I had bought two Swiftech pumps and then on an upgrade I decided to go with the better Alphacool VPP655 and had four pumps with two not being used so I sold one and kept one as a backup which I just decided to add to the loop for added flow rate. I tend to do crazy things just because........ I also have a weakness for new parts, especially shinney new parts. :lol: 
I'll send some pics in a Pm.
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April 15, 2013 10:11:50 AM

That's actually what I have been wondering about. In all videos the colored tubing looks solid but when shopping for them it looks transparent in all images! I was wondering where people get those solid colored tubes :D 

Having a weakness for shiny new parts can sometimes be bad. At least for your wallet :D  but at least it makes you happy!
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a c 138 K Overclocking
April 15, 2013 10:21:28 AM

Happy but poor. I sent you some pics, one came out huge I don't know why unless I copied the wrong url.

Tubing can be a hit or miss proposition and after a few disappointments I have decided to stay with clear, at least I know what I'm getting.
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April 15, 2013 10:37:02 AM

Those blue colors looked amazing on your build!
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April 15, 2013 11:16:34 AM

I have my modding shopping cart ready for payment. Just wanted to ask if I should get BitFenix Spectre fans or Spectre PRO's?

Normal Spectre (230mm)
RPM: 900
CFM: 97,8
dBA: < 20

Spectre PRO (230mm)
RPM: 900
CFM: 156.27
dBA: 25.6

This is the fan which will come to the front panel to take in the air to the case. I'm looking to get a really quiet build so my eyes are on the normal Spectre fan.

For the radiator I'm planning to use the Spectre PRO instead.

Normal Spectre (120mm)
RPM: 1000
CFM: 43.24
dBA: < 20

Spectre PRO (120mm)
RPM: 1200
CFM: 56.22
dBA: 18.9

Also in addition there will be another 120mm fan to take the air out on the back panel. Going to order the windowed side panel at the same time.

God, only a few fans and a side panel already at 100€ :D  oh and of course this:
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a c 138 K Overclocking
April 15, 2013 12:13:45 PM

Any fans for the case can be low noise and don't need to be high cfm, the fans for the radiators need to be high static pressure and as high a cfm as you can get without sounding like a jet engine.
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April 15, 2013 12:50:02 PM

That reminded me of the pictures you showed me. I forgot to say that one of your fans looked like a jet engine :D 
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April 16, 2013 11:31:39 AM

Yeah :D 

When I'm waiting my paycheck (I actually don't know exact time when I'm going to get it, it's a little complicated :p ) I started to think more about the setup in the case. As I need a dvd-drive, and there will be fan controller in the front panel and the radiator is taking at least one spot from the 5.25" bay, I started to think if I would change the bay reservoir to a tube one.

I watched a very detailed tutorial video on how to install a top on a pump but unfortunately the video didn't show installing the reservoir. I'm guessing that's something really simple since I wasn't able to find any instructions on that :D 

I was looking at this:
http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-Laing-D5-X-...

And my pump will be this: http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/product.php?pr...

I'm just wondering, how do I know which one of the holes in the pump top is pushing the water out and which one is taking it in? I would like the water to go from the radiator straight to the cpu block when it's cooled rather than going from cpu to radiator and then doing the whole loop before reaching the cpu again :) 

Also that top hole in the reservoir is just the fill point, right? :D 
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a c 138 K Overclocking
April 16, 2013 11:59:50 AM

That's kind of an odd set up and the reservoir may end up laying flat because of where the pump is connected, unless you get some brackets to clamp on to the reservoir tube and support it without it standing on the pump.
The holes will be clearly marked as to which ones are intake on which are output and a diagram will come with the reservoir to describe the function of the holes. The top is where you will be filling the reservoir.

If you get that reservoir you linked then you would only need to get the pump cylinder.

http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Alphacool-VPP6...
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April 16, 2013 12:50:04 PM

I just wrote an answer for 20 minutes, clicked Post answer and my message disappeared and the page refreshed. Oh well... I'm just going to say it in short then :p 

I decided to put the reservoir and pump to separate places and connect them with tubing.

Here is the spot where I have planned on mounting the pump: http://oi45.tinypic.com/2r4hitw.jpg

Those black plastic holders for 2.5" drives will get off. If there's room, I will leave my two SSD drives there.

I would use this for mounting: http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/EK-UNI-Holder-...

Maybe I'm lucky and there's holes where I need them or maybe I need to drill a few extra holes to get that mounted but either way that's my plan.

As of now I have no clue where I would mount the reservoir though :D 
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a c 138 K Overclocking
April 16, 2013 1:05:27 PM

I like that bracket a lot and it could come in very handy if you went with the small reservoir, you can even attach a drain to it and have both drain and fill at the same point. Nice, I think you should work on that and try to incorporate it into the case , even if you had to mount it outside at the rear of the case like I did with one of my reservoirs.
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April 16, 2013 1:20:06 PM

Quote:
even if you had to mount it outside at the rear of the case like I did with one of my reservoirs.


You know that's what I was thinking. But then I thought that there would just be a long line of tube coming from the back of the case to the front to attach to the pump. OR I could attach the pump to the bottom of the case, in front of the power supply.

I made a little sketch with my famous photo-manipulating skills:



This would allow me to leave the front of the case alone for the SSDs only. It would also give the air a better flow from the front since there's nothing blocking it (I will remove those plastic holders that you see in the pic)

BUT this means I need to order different kind of fittings (45 degree, 90 degree) to get the tubing go smoothly. Oh well :p  looking to bump the budget with another 100€.
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a c 176 K Overclocking
April 16, 2013 11:09:01 PM

I know, fittings are an absolute killer. Have been hashing out a water upgrade for my rig, and fittings and adapters alone are nearly half the cost of it. Then you get into the game of how to mount everything to use the least amount of 90° fittings possible.

I'm liking that bracket to attach the pump to the side of the drive cages. Been figuring out a way to do that myself.
Thinking of attaching the pump to a metal plate, which tightens to another metal plate through the use of some threaded screws and nuts. Put the drive bay wall between the plates, pad all surfaces involved and tighten it. Got a nice way to mount a pump I think.

You could mount the reservoir on that blank metal to the left of the PCI-slots at the back of the case. You seem willing to make your own mounting holes so that's not an issue.
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April 17, 2013 1:49:55 AM

Quote:
You could mount the reservoir on that blank metal to the left of the PCI-slots at the back of the case. You seem willing to make your own mounting holes so that's not an issue.


Now that's a place I was thinking about myself! The space is 100mm wide and there is about 200mm space in height.

This one would fit perfectly there: http://specialtech.co.uk/spshop/customer/Bitspower-Z-Mu...
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a c 138 K Overclocking
April 17, 2013 8:35:05 AM

In a previous configuration I had mounted a reservoir in that spot and have since repositioned it to the outside back and added a bay style. If your not using the bays in the front the bay style reservoir is a good option. You can also get creative with the placement of the SSDs as they are small and flat and can be mounted almost anywhere. In my next revision I'm planning to remove the lower HD rack and mount the SSDs someplace else.
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April 17, 2013 9:02:57 AM

inzone said:
If your not using the bays in the front the bay style reservoir is a good option. You can also get creative with the placement of the SSDs as they are small and flat and can be mounted almost anywhere. In my next revision I'm planning to remove the lower HD rack and mount the SSDs someplace else.


Yeah. My main concern was if there will be too much stuff packed into the bay; dvd-drive, fan controller and reservoir (2 slots). That wouldn't leave any slots free there (if radiator takes one from top).

You can see in this picture how the builder has mounted the SSDs to the side of the upper bay. I'm just wondering how he has gotten them so white :D 



PS. I'm hoping the green tubing I'm getting is similar to that^
That's also how my cable management is supposed to go. I'm not going to bother with sleeving (at least not yet).
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April 17, 2013 2:29:18 PM

Wow that's actually something I didn't know about! :D 
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a c 138 K Overclocking
April 17, 2013 2:46:23 PM

$ $ $ $ $ $
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April 18, 2013 9:29:09 AM

Yeah :D  not the first on my priority list though.

So I'm going to order the windowed side panel now since Jimm's is getting a restock soon. I just realized it has two slots for 120mm fans to be mounted in:


I will probably leave them empty for now. But regarding fans I'm still thinking between Spectre Pro and normal Spectre for my radiator. Is 1.24mm/H2O good enough static pressure? That is with 56CFM
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a c 138 K Overclocking
April 18, 2013 9:39:29 AM

Yes as a minimum look for something over 1.0 for static pressure. The Corsair fans on my radiators have a static pressure of 3.1mm/H2O and a CFM of 67. Along with those numbers you want to consider the db since with water cooling you can end up with more fans then usual and noise can be a consideration which is why I like a fan controller.
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