My first PC build is a fail, what could be the problem?

jiri

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My first attempt at building a PC is a fail.

Motherboard's an Asus P8-Z77-V. CPU a 3770K.

First time I turned the PSU- a BeQuiet 630W- on, I hadn't plugged in the EATX 12V cable, so understandably it wasn't working and the DRAM red light was blinking. However, now that it's plugged in, the DRAM red light is constantly turned on and nothing shows on my monitor. My monitor when not connected to any system whatsoever claims to be looking for a PC connection, but when I connect it to the motherboard it just goes black. and on standby This happens both on a VGA monitor and on a Display Port monitor. It happens both when I connect the monitor to the motherboard graphic outputs and when I connect it to the GTX660 outputs, but I generally try it out on the motherboard's outputs to reduce from the chance that the graphics card could be to blame.

I've read up a number of possibilities that lead me to think it may be that my Corsair Low Profile Vengeance may be incompatible with the motherboard. The model number is CML16GX3M4A1600C9.(4x4gb) and it is not in the QVL that Asus has for this motherboard. The depressing fact that some motherboards just aren't compatible with some of the most popular brands out there in RAM was something I was not counting on when I ordered this setup, so I resist to the chance it could be this.

I've tried to use one stick at a time, both starting from closest to the CPU and furthest away, and still no POST to the monitor (if POST is the correct word). But no luck. So if it were faulty RAM this would solve the issue because it would most probably be only 1 or 2 of the sticks not all of them, which inclines me to think it could be the incompatibility instead.

Other possibilities include: first half a dozen times I turned this on and off test, I did so with only four standoffs, the four that came as default with the Zalman Z11 Plus case I bought. Only later on did I add another 4 standoffs and make it pretty damn firm. Could I have shorted the mobo due to not enough standoffs first time around?

I have the green light show up when I turn on the PSU. I'm using the PSU best as I know how. It's not quite modular and it comes with two big collections of cables. One going to the EATX 12V connector I mentiioned above and the other to the EATX PWR with 24 pins. The cable of the 24 pin PWR connector has one pin that has no metal inside, all plastic which is suspicious.

The Zalman Z11 case has a weird issue in that it has two fans with 3 pin connectors so I'll need a bridge to adapt them, but I extremely highly doubt that that is the issue.

I've been adding a Phanteks 14PE as a heatsink and a cooler, and I've used thermal paste on the CPU. Maybe I've spread it wrong, too much?

I did have to rought it about quite a bit as I committed a bunch of errors setting it up, so maybe I broke something in the mobo? The Wifi card came with a screw so tight even a lighter couldn't loosen it up so I've left it without a screw and maybe it's loose and shorting something but I highly doubt it's that too.

Initially I had an SSD drive connected but realising that I was disconnecting the PSU abruptly and the short life span of SSDs that get disconnected prematurely, I disconnected it. The DVD player is still on with the Asus CD, though, as I believe that's what's supposed to appear when the monitor boots up in order to, I suppose, configure the BIOS.

So what do you think this could be?
 
Solution
clear CMOS (remove the battery for a minute or so, discharge the board by pressing and holding the power switch on your case for a few seconds while the PSU is off, then place the battery back in)
1. check the CPU socket for bent pins
2. use the stock heatsink in the meantime, sometime the uneven or excess pressure from an aftermarket cooler causes problems for the seating of the CPU. don't forget to plop on a rice grain-sized drop of thermal paste.
3. use a known working single(or perhaps 2) sticks of RAM, referring to the motherboad manual for the correct order of memory population.
even if it isn't in the manufacturer QVL most memory these days work on just about any motherboard.
4. disconnect as many irrelevant peripherals for now...
Well here are some things to check:

* CPU is installed in the correct manner and has decent contact with Phanteks PH-TC14PE 140mm UFB (Updraft Floating Balance) CPU Cooler
* All power connections completed
- 24 pin Mobo
- 8 pin CPU
- PCI-e 6 pin for GTX 660 GPU
- Power for HD/SSD/DVD

* Connect your Monitor connection (assuming it's DVI or HDMI) to the GTX 660 output port (DVI or HDMI, whichever).
* Verify that you have your front panel connections (on your Motherboard) hooked up correctly (especially the power button one).

Generally I would have installed:
* CPU w/HSF
* CPU HSF connected to the CPU-Fan connection on the Motherboard
* RAM - 1 stick to start with
* GPU - w/PCI-e power connection from PSU (if the GPU needs it, which yours does)
* HD

Turn on power and see what you get.
 

vertical777

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Apr 22, 2010
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clear CMOS (remove the battery for a minute or so, discharge the board by pressing and holding the power switch on your case for a few seconds while the PSU is off, then place the battery back in)
1. check the CPU socket for bent pins
2. use the stock heatsink in the meantime, sometime the uneven or excess pressure from an aftermarket cooler causes problems for the seating of the CPU. don't forget to plop on a rice grain-sized drop of thermal paste.
3. use a known working single(or perhaps 2) sticks of RAM, referring to the motherboad manual for the correct order of memory population.
even if it isn't in the manufacturer QVL most memory these days work on just about any motherboard.
4. disconnect as many irrelevant peripherals for now, i.e. drives, wifi cards, video card (boot from the onboard graphics for now remember to connect your monitor to the motherboard instead of the video card in this case), you'd want to see it POST first before trying to boot into your OS.
5. make sure you've got all power connectors plugged in propely (24pin, 8 pin CPU, etc.)
6. make sure all screw holes on your motherboard has a motherboard standoff and is secure.
 
Solution

jiri

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May 2, 2010
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There are three fans that don't depend on the three pins that'll need a dual to one prong adapter. These three fans have big four ugly ass prong thingies that fit into a 'Drive' cable from the PSU, and they seem to be working fine. I also have the 14PE fans and they're working fine. They came with a dual to one prong adapter thingie themselves so they can be connected to the mobo fine.

There's only one 8 prong thing going into the GPU, so I connected it to the PCI-2 on the PSU. However, I've currently taken the GPU out of the case to reduce the chance that its the GPU that causes the issue, and am trying to boot to the CD using one of the motherboard's integrated graphics card outputs.

No beeping at all.
 

jiri

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Ok vertical77 and lunyone, I'm going to take your suggestions. A few questions:

I'm disconnecting as many irrelevant peripherals as possible, including the wifi card and the SSD as I only want to post from the mobo and the cd. The aftermarket cooler is enormous and is a big obstacle to playing around to see what's wrong, so I'm looking to boot the mobo up without it for now. Do you think I can do so safely, without either the aftermarket or the stock cooler, because I'm only testing for POST and so turning the PC for a minute every time?

If I absolutely must, then I guess I'll put in the stock cooler while I do the tests. For the stock cooler, do I have to clean off the thermal paste and put a new patch on, like I did for the aftermarket, or will the thermal paste that's already there not cause any issues? The Phanteks say to clean off the paste but maybe it's not the same with the stock one? All of this assuming, I absolutely cannot test for POST without a cooler.

One of the prongs on the 24 pin ATX from the PSU is suspicious as it doesn't have any metal inside it, just the black plastic surrounding. But I'll start running through your suggestions to see what's wrong.

I'm not sure I can get the 9 standoffs that would make the mobo completely fixed, but I think there are now 8 overall.

The monitors are working with a laptop and a desktop these days, so I don't think it's them. They're powered from a different wall socket. I'll start clearing CMOS, pressing memok buttons and whatnot this evening.
 

jiri

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Nah, no luck. Red light through and through. Becomes a blinking light with a quick flash of the uefi bios light when I press deep on it and it restarts the PC, but it soon returns to being a unflinching red light as usual.

Worse thing is I dunno what it could be, anything from the PSU cable, CPU, the mobo, the ram, this is infuriating. Rather than wait for an interminable rma, I think i'll just have to waste another 200 pounds on more parts to combine and see what's wrong.

I'm now playing around with the stock cooler as it makes everything else easier to handle as its smaller. There was a brief moment where i tried without the stock cooler and the cpu area did indeed get very hot, but nothing smells burnt and the automatic switch off probably is what made the power switch off that time. Whatever it was, now with the stock cooler its the same pattern as before. Only now I'm clicking the memtest red light and when I do so and it turns on again, it blinks.
 

jiri

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Working fine thanks, all. It turned out to be the RAM stands, I had to completely close the latch, not just partially close it. This means you have to push with confidence the ram downwards or perhaps not be such a scary cat. Anyway thanks.
 


Glad to hear that you found the problem. Run some tests on your system (Memtest86 & Prime95) to name a few. This way you can do some stress tests and verify that all parts are working well. Then come back and let us know how it all worked out.