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Computer freezing up during games

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April 16, 2013 6:43:11 PM

Hey everyone, I built a gaming rig last September have had a somewhat ongoing issue with it. When I play video games, the comp freezes up completely and needs a hard reboot. This freeze up can happen an hour into playing, or 10 minutes, or 4 hours... seemingly random.

As mentioned, this issue has been off and on. In another thread, I was recommended to update the BIOS. Which I did, and it seemed to fix the issue. Then it started doing it again and what do you know, a new BIOS update and it fixed it again. Now it's doing it again and there is no update.

I'm sure the first response will be about heat, but my temps are well within range (less than 40 degrees Celsius under load). I have also ran through memtest with no issues. I have reseated everything there is to reseat. I have reset the CMOS. My GPU drivers are always current.

My main problem is not knowing what's causing it. Is there someway I can actually see why the computer crashed? Is there a system log that records these things? Another member swapped out every single piece in his machine until he realized it was his PSU, I really don't want to follow that same path.

My set up:

Intel Core i7-3770K
CPU Cooler: Zalman CNPS9900MAX-B
Asus SABERTOOTH Z77
G.Skill Ripjaws 16GB DDR3-1600
Crucial M4 256GB SSD
Seagate Barracuda 2TB 7200RPM HDD
Kingston HyperX 3K 120GB SSD
Gigabyte GeForce GTX 670 2GB
Cooler Master HAF 932 Advanced
Cooler Master Silent Pro M 850W PSU
Asus VS247H-P 23.6\\\" Monitor
CyberPower 1350A UPS

Also, today I installed a second GTX 670 for SLi. Loaded up a game and the freezing occurred within 30 minutes.
April 16, 2013 6:50:51 PM

use this to read anmy minidump files that the system have record http://www.resplendence.com/whocrashed first i would plug it directly to the outlet without the ups then use the os disk one graphic card and one memory stick and boot the system and see if it crash .
April 16, 2013 7:17:51 PM

voodoovyper said:
My main problem is not knowing what's causing it. Is there someway I can actually see why the computer crashed? Is there a system log that records these things? Another member swapped out every single piece in his machine until he realized it was his PSU, I really don't want to follow that same path.


Yes, it's called Event Viewer

Related resources
April 16, 2013 8:01:52 PM

scout_03 said:
use this to read anmy minidump files that the system have record http://www.resplendence.com/whocrashed first i would plug it directly to the outlet without the ups then use the os disk one graphic card and one memory stick and boot the system and see if it crash .


I loaded it up and it said no valid dumps, I'm guessing it must remain opened when the crash occurs? As mentioned with the memory, I ran memtest and there were no negative results.

JackNaylorPE said:
voodoovyper said:
My main problem is not knowing what's causing it. Is there someway I can actually see why the computer crashed? Is there a system log that records these things? Another member swapped out every single piece in his machine until he realized it was his PSU, I really don't want to follow that same path.


Yes, it's called Event Viewer



I've been looking in event viewer, but I do not see a reason for a crash. All I see is "The system was shut down improperly." Is there somewhere else I should be looking?
April 16, 2013 8:04:51 PM

then do the test as said before it could be your ups or another part .
April 16, 2013 10:58:09 PM

scout_03 said:
use this to read anmy minidump files that the system have record http://www.resplendence.com/whocrashed first i would plug it directly to the outlet without the ups then use the os disk one graphic card and one memory stick and boot the system and see if it crash .


scout_03 said:
then do the test as said before it could be your ups or another part .


Also, what will using the os disc do?

Just to add some more info, when using 1 GPU, it crashed frequently but not every time. I've had some time to use the system with 2 GPUs today and it crashes within an hour. I'm done for tonight though, I will try your suggestions tomorrow.
April 17, 2013 7:51:18 PM

since you have 2 gpu i would also try the second gpu only in the system as primary gpu .
April 18, 2013 6:02:20 PM

scout_03 said:
since you have 2 gpu i would also try the second gpu only in the system as primary gpu .


Ok, I have tested with 1 memory stick in multiple ports, still crashed. Tested with all four sticks individually. Still crashed. Tested with 1 GPU (the newer one) in a different slot, still crashed. Tested with power cord direct to a wall outlet, crashed as well.

Also, there are no crash dumps found. Now what?
April 18, 2013 6:20:42 PM

the other option you have is to test your psu on another system and try another one even a old one on this system and if everything still crash the motherboard could be the one you need to rma .
April 18, 2013 6:26:25 PM

I forgot to mention when this issue started happening, it was right around after I installed a NZXT Sentry 2 LX fan controller. Could this have any bearing?

I will order a new psu tonight. I don't have another system or an older psu unfortunately.
April 18, 2013 6:33:52 PM

The motherboard is Windows 8 preferred, what is your OS?
What games do you play, are they compatible with your OS?
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/

Do you use a gaming mouse/keyboard, external hdd connected, other devices like iphone on charge using a usb port?

If you have other devices connected to your ports then I suggest to remove any that are not required, it might be that they are drawing power somewhat that might be required by the video card during high fps. You should not have your phone or external hdd connected when not in use. The PC should not be used as a charger for devices.

Is the UPS really a necessity? It only provides extra power when the mains power go off so that you can close applications and power down safely, it doesn't provide extra power to continue using apps or for gamining.


Most gamers report that an i7 is not the best rig for pc games, they purport that the i5 is better suited. It might be that you are expecting high FPS and have possibly overclocked something to gain the extra speed or FPS. Do you overclock anything?
April 18, 2013 6:35:09 PM

before you order the psu uninstall the lx2 fan controller and see if system stil crash .
April 18, 2013 6:41:41 PM

TenPc said:
The motherboard is Windows 8 preferred, what is your OS?
What games do you play, are they compatible with your OS?
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/

Do you use a gaming mouse/keyboard, external hdd connected, other devices like iphone on charge using a usb port?

If you have other devices connected to your ports then I suggest to remove any that are not required, it might be that they are drawing power somewhat that might be required by the video card during high fps. You should not have your phone or external hdd connected when not in use. The PC should not be used as a charger for devices.

Is the UPS really a necessity? It only provides extra power when the mains power go off so that you can close applications and power down safely, it doesn't provide extra power to continue using apps or for gamining.


Most gamers report that an i7 is not the best rig for pc games, they purport that the i5 is better suited. It might be that you are expecting high FPS and have possibly overclocked something to gain the extra speed or FPS. Do you overclock anything?


Thanks for the response.

I am using Windows 7, this issue has occurred across many of today's games such as Bioshock Infinite, Planetside 2, Borderlands 2 just to name a few.

Plugged into the computer are a keyboard, mouse, speakers, and headhpnes. Nothing charging.

I use the UPS because of something I can't quite explain correctly. I have a laser printer that upon starting up, draws 500w of power and causes the lights to flicker. Also, the power goes out somewhat often (1 or 2 times per month). I figured having the UPS wouldn't hurt and gives good surge protection with the added benefit of the battery. But as mentioned, I have tried the computer directly connected to the wall and the crashing still occurred.

The crashing occurs randomly. It only happens when gaming, but it could be under "light" load such as standing still in a non-active environment in Borderlands or under heavy load like engaging is massive combat in Planetside 2. It's seemingly random. I have tried to stress the computer by going into very demanding areas of a game to try to recreate it, but nothing. Sometimes I can play for 4 hours. Sometimes I can play for 30. I can't stress enough that it's seemingly random when it happens.

The GPUs have not been OC'd but the CPU has been to 4.2 via ASUS' bios utility which is considered a safe value. I also tried with the standard stock value as well, no difference.

According my UPS, the comp draws about 400w under high load. I can't see how my 850w processor wouldn't be able to handle that. But then again, I'm at a loss of direction otherwise.
April 18, 2013 7:03:05 PM

if the light flicker at the 500 watts start of printer i would check that outlet it could be that she cannot handle the load how may other thing that are plug in the same lines and what is the breaker or fuse size for this line i could be to much load on line .
April 18, 2013 7:08:18 PM

The printer should not be left on standby, there sounds like ome sort of problem with it if it causes the mains lights to flicker (might be the wrong voltage for your country), Your mains might be 240 volt but the printer is only 230 volt, not a great difference but can be a sort of issue if connected to a power board with other differeng appliances/electronics.

My PSU is 230 volt but my suburb requires 240 volt appliances. Most PSU's have the optional 230 - 240 volt but my PSU is 230 volt only. There was a brief moment of light flickering when I first used it but all seems to be alright now. There are no other appliances/electronics running on the same powerboard (just connected until I require them) however, when I do turn them on, there seems to be a shortfall of power in my PC, it freezes or the gpu has problems. grrrrr!

I do have many powerboards all running from another powertboard that is then connected to one power point. They all are power surge protected so I rarely have any problems unless I have too many power hungry electronics running.

The UPS has to be compliant with your OS for it to be of any good use. Unless your UPS is fairly new, it wouldn't be Windows 7 ready.
FAQ for Cyberpower UPS -
http://www.cyberpowersystems.com/support/faqs/general-u...


Overall, there does seem to be a power issues but not necessarily the fault of the PSU more likely too many electronics or appliances all running at the same time. You might have a heater/air conditioner going as well as an amplifier stereo etc. Ask who ever owns the premises whether your mains power is surge protected, many older suburbs and homes (flats/apartments/dwellings/shacks) have not had the new protection fitted.

Disconnect the ups then see if any issues aride, also turn off that printer and disconnect cable from the usb port.
April 18, 2013 8:11:18 PM

TenPc said:
The printer should not be left on standby, there sounds like ome sort of problem with it if it causes the mains lights to flicker (might be the wrong voltage for your country), Your mains might be 240 volt but the printer is only 230 volt, not a great difference but can be a sort of issue if connected to a power board with other differeng appliances/electronics.

My PSU is 230 volt but my suburb requires 240 volt appliances. Most PSU's have the optional 230 - 240 volt but my PSU is 230 volt only. There was a brief moment of light flickering when I first used it but all seems to be alright now. There are no other appliances/electronics running on the same powerboard (just connected until I require them) however, when I do turn them on, there seems to be a shortfall of power in my PC, it freezes or the gpu has problems. grrrrr!

I do have many powerboards all running from another powertboard that is then connected to one power point. They all are power surge protected so I rarely have any problems unless I have too many power hungry electronics running.

The UPS has to be compliant with your OS for it to be of any good use. Unless your UPS is fairly new, it wouldn't be Windows 7 ready.
FAQ for Cyberpower UPS -
http://www.cyberpowersystems.com/support/faqs/general-u...


Overall, there does seem to be a power issues but not necessarily the fault of the PSU more likely too many electronics or appliances all running at the same time. You might have a heater/air conditioner going as well as an amplifier stereo etc. Ask who ever owns the premises whether your mains power is surge protected, many older suburbs and homes (flats/apartments/dwellings/shacks) have not had the new protection fitted.

Disconnect the ups then see if any issues aride, also turn off that printer and disconnect cable from the usb port.


The printer is no longer in this room. It was moved elsewhere in the house after the "heat up" cycle caused the UPS to kick in due to a large fluctuation (printer wasn't even connected to UPS). This was months ago. Same thing happens when the vacuum is turned on and plugged in to the same room. All that is on this outlet is the UPS and a label printer which takes very little power. Connected to the UPS are a 2.1 speaker system, a keyboard, the headphone base for the wireless headphones, and the computer.

Maybe it was missed the other times I mentioned this, but I have tried the computer directly connected to the wall outlet and the freeze up occurred just as it has been.

There is nothing wrong with the printer, it just draws a lot of power in order to heat up the toner for printing. The lights flickering is moreso an issue with the house than the printer, but either way, it's on a different circuit and is unrelated to the computer and has been unrelated for months.

I can't understand how having a UPS can be detrimental. But either way and as mentioned, I tried with the UPS disconnected and just the computer plugged into the wall and the issue still occurs.

Also like I said, this issue hasn't happened all the time. I built this rig in Sept and the issue occurred day 1 but was resolved with BIOS updates. It didn't happen again for like 2 months and I updated the BIOS again and it was fine again for another few months which brings us to now. I think if it were a power issue with the house, it would continue to happen 100% of the time.
April 18, 2013 8:30:31 PM

It's not your PC so you don't need to update anything or re-install or nothing.
"Same thing happens when the vacuum is turned on and plugged in to the same room."
It's the room, your power point is not good or the mains power board is at fault. You need an elctrician to come inspect the mains power board.

It mght be rats in the ceiling have chewed through some power leads, it happened at my place, where I live, the house is more than 100 years old and the wiring is really old, corroded and there are too many rooms connected to the one fuse. The electrican had to rewire most of the house and replace the old wiring system.

You need an electrician to check the house wiring and the manis power box. There is nothing wrong with your PC.

Edit - The bios update would have improved the power management more than anything else so each update improves it moreso.

Try using the PC in a different room furtherest away from this current room and then see if any issues occur.
April 18, 2013 9:39:26 PM

TenPc said:
It's not your PC so you don't need to update anything or re-install or nothing.
"Same thing happens when the vacuum is turned on and plugged in to the same room."
It's the room, your power point is not good or the mains power board is at fault. You need an elctrician to come inspect the mains power board.

It mght be rats in the ceiling have chewed through some power leads, it happened at my place, where I live, the house is more than 100 years old and the wiring is really old, corroded and there are too many rooms connected to the one fuse. The electrican had to rewire most of the house and replace the old wiring system.

You need an electrician to check the house wiring and the manis power box. There is nothing wrong with your PC.

Edit - The bios update would have improved the power management more than anything else so each update improves it moreso.

Try using the PC in a different room furtherest away from this current room and then see if any issues occur.


Interesting point to note about the mobo update issue. But it doesn't really add up why a bios update would fix it only temporarily.

This house was built in the 80s and is kept in good shape. I do recall looking at the fuse box when finding a place for the printer and noticed the room my comp was in had a rather low power rating. I'll look at it again tomorrow. And we don't have rats that I know of.

If you think power is the problem, then would you recommend using a program to record power consumption. Maybe I can find a pattern to more accurately detect why the issue is occurring (ie when the wattage reaches a certain level).
April 18, 2013 10:15:17 PM

I don't know anything about power meters, better to get an electrican in to check the power box. It's better to pay an electrican $100 thn to having to buy a new computer. You could try powering on the PC, play a movie then go to the meter box and see if the timing clock is working extra fast.

Do as I suggested, use a power point furtherest away from that room, maybe in the kitchen or the garage if you have one, just to test out my theory. That room could possibly have a low AMP rating maybe only 2amps or 4amps and not prorviding adequate voltage. You could try in a different house, maybe your neighbour, and then see if any issues occur.

In our kitchen if the microwave and the electric kettle and the toaster are all being used, the kitchen fuse box switches off, only two of them can be used at any one time. The kitchen is wired along with two bed rooms as well as the laundry.
April 18, 2013 10:53:20 PM

TenPc said:
I don't know anything about power meters, better to get an electrican in to check the power box. It's better to pay an electrican $100 thn to having to buy a new computer. You could try powering on the PC, play a movie then go to the meter box and see if the timing clock is working extra fast.

Do as I suggested, use a power point furtherest away from that room, maybe in the kitchen or the garage if you have one, just to test out my theory. That room could possibly have a low AMP rating maybe only 2amps or 4amps and not prorviding adequate voltage. You could try in a different house, maybe your neighbour, and then see if any issues occur.

In our kitchen if the microwave and the electric kettle and the toaster are all being used, the kitchen fuse box switches off, only two of them can be used at any one time. The kitchen is wired along with two bed rooms as well as the laundry.


I shall try this tomorrow, using it in a different room with more amperage.

As far as an application, I was referring more to a computer application that can record power consumption being used by the comp. That way, I can see if spikes in power are causing the issue.
April 18, 2013 11:07:49 PM

Well, the last thing you want is to be using the PC when power spikes occur so I don't think that is a good idea :) 
April 18, 2013 11:53:28 PM

TenPc said:
Well, the last thing you want is to be using the PC when power spikes occur so I don't think that is a good idea :) 


Well not power spikes per say, but to monitor power consumption to try to find a trend as to when the computer crashes and how much power was being consumed at the time. Also, I don't know if this is a coincidence or not, but whenever it crashes, it's always between 40-50 minutes past the hour. For example, I could play for 1 hour and it would crash at say 4:45, or play for 2 hours and it will crash at 8:50.

Also, I tried another setup. I completely disabled the ups and plug a standard power bar into the wall and plugged only the necessary stuff in. Same issue. Also have the NZXT Sentry 2 LX disconnected. This is becoming very time consuming.
April 19, 2013 5:22:48 AM

Just try a different power point. Have a look in the socket of the power point, if there is any black charring then there has been some sort of power surge through the socket itself. It might be that the socket itself needs to be replaced, the contacts in it could be blackened and somehow only when you are using the pc for a period of time does it affect the power stream :/ 

Check for dust in your PC, often that is a major cause to disruption especially if the fins o the fans have any accumulation, they become dragged and not spin their expected rpm's.

There is not a lot left to discover unless you are using molex cable adapters for the video card. Perhaps a snap shot of your PC gizzards to show your hardware setup.

Most newer PC cases have the PSU on the bottom of the case, if the side fan of the PSU is facing downwards then there is no proper airflow, it could be suffocating the PSU. If the side fan of the PSU is facing inwards then it could be drawing air away from the video card fan or blowing air into it causing the fans to become slow and lessen their effects. If your case is somewhat cramped then air flow would not circulate and suffocation might occur especially if the case is basically air tight.

The only necessary stuff to plug into that power board would be the monitor and the PC cable, nothing else.
April 19, 2013 1:53:57 PM

get yourself something like this that will to find if the outlet is plug the way it should http://www.amazon.com/GE-50542-Receptacle-Improper-Indi... and use a voltmater to test the power the outlet give an i would follow TenPc advise for a electrician to check the main box and the inside wiring they hae tool to test the amp in a line from the box to the outlet and will tel you witch one are on the same line of breaker .
April 19, 2013 2:46:55 PM

Well I haven't tried anything with the power yet. I tried to narrow down the time when this started happening because like I mentioned, it was perfectly fine with zero crashes for months. So I did a system restore back to that point and rolled back my GPU drivers to 314.07. Plugged necessities into a power strip and loaded up a game just to the main menu (Bioshock Infinite) and left it alone for a while and it crashed within an hour.

I then returned the CPU OC to "normal" which is stock from what it was on before "performance" which ups it from 3.5 to 4.2ghz. I loaded up Bioshock Infinite again and left it at the main menu and no freeze! For over 6 hours. Loaded up Planetside 2 and played for about 2 hours and everything is good so far.

I have some more testing to do though. I screwed with some settings in NVIDA's 3D application settings at the same time I reset the CPU. Also, as mentioned, many of the earlier testing I did involved lower the CPU clock rate as well. When I had one GPU and one memory stick, I ran it with "normal" CPU level as well and it still crashed. In the past 4 months, I've had the CPU on "performance" and it hasn't frozen once, so I'm doubtful that that is the cause. But I do suspect that perhaps that setting combined with something else is causing an issue. I just need to find out what that something else is.
April 19, 2013 6:36:40 PM

I can't seem to find any details in previous posts where you had stated that you had OCed anything so I just "assumed" that you had a regular PC that crashed every time an appliance was running near your room as stated in previous posts.

You state 16gb of ram, try using just 8gb of ram (2 x 4gb) in one bank.

What sata ports ido you have your hdd's? Which sata port is the cd/dvd drive? Any RAID configurations?

You need to be more upfront about your configurations, what you actually do have installed, hardware, and even some programs that you use, and the games played that do crash while in use. What you have OCed, and whether you actually brdge the Video cards, and that you have connected the proper cables without using adapters or molex connectors. What is your OS, x32 or x64, any other operating systems?

If you could snapshot a gfew photos of your PC gizzards, that is always helpful.

4.2ghz is a big jump for a cpu, it really isn't necessary, 3.5ghz is already a huge cpu, most peole are still using 3.2ghz or less and are getting far better results. A faster cpu doesn't really go that fast if the ram is not tied in with it or the gpu is a mule.
April 19, 2013 8:32:17 PM

you should have mention in the first post the you overclock and witch settings you have play with on the system because we usualy suggest to get back to factory settings to troubleshoot ,do you still have issue and what they are ?
April 19, 2013 9:22:45 PM

TenPc said:
I can't seem to find any details in previous posts where you had stated that you had OCed anything so I just "assumed" that you had a regular PC that crashed every time an appliance was running near your room as stated in previous posts.

You state 16gb of ram, try using just 8gb of ram (2 x 4gb) in one bank.

What sata ports ido you have your hdd's? Which sata port is the cd/dvd drive? Any RAID configurations?

You need to be more upfront about your configurations, what you actually do have installed, hardware, and even some programs that you use, and the games played that do crash while in use. What you have OCed, and whether you actually brdge the Video cards, and that you have connected the proper cables without using adapters or molex connectors. What is your OS, x32 or x64, any other operating systems?

If you could snapshot a gfew photos of your PC gizzards, that is always helpful.

4.2ghz is a big jump for a cpu, it really isn't necessary, 3.5ghz is already a huge cpu, most peole are still using 3.2ghz or less and are getting far better results. A faster cpu doesn't really go that fast if the ram is not tied in with it or the gpu is a mule.


scout_03 said:
you should have mention in the first post the you overclock and witch settings you have play with on the system because we usualy suggest to get back to factory settings to troubleshoot ,do you still have issue and what they are ?


You are correct, I failed to mention this in this particular thread (have multiple threads on other websites trying to iron this issue out). However, I did mention that with this OC, it was clocked back to factory settings during the previous testing scenarios (1 gpu, different ram sticks etc) and the computer had still crashed. The only reason I increased it again was because it didn't seem to have any effect on what was happening.

Btw, this ASUS includes a BIOS UI that allows users to easily overclock to a "safe" value with a click of a button. That is how I did the OC for it the CPU. I did nothing more than this. No other OC to anything else either.

To answer your question about the HDDS, I have the 2 SSD drives connected into the sata 6gb/s connectors, the hdd and the odd are in the 3gb/s connector. No raid configuration.

The programs I use are fairly standard. Though, since testing, I've had no open programs running. The only out of the ordinary application is the AI Suite II from Asus which comes with the mobo that monitors temps, voltage along with a few other useful things. Games are running through Steam on the second ssd (the 256gb one). The next test will be using the other os ssd. Only other hardware that wasn't mentioned were the brands for keyboard and mouse. The keyboard is a Logitech G19 and the mouse is a Logitech G500.

This is a picture from when the comp was first built, so you won't see the 2nd gpu or the fan controller:

The cables have since been managed.

In regards to the PSU placement, it's popular recommendation to place the psu so that the inside fan is position downwards if on the bottom of the case. And yes, I am using the SLI bridge connector.
April 19, 2013 9:34:09 PM

check if you cpu cooler is fix strait seams to me in the picture that it is bending to the back also see if there is nothing from the board or hte video coneector on the card that made contact to the case where they should not .
April 20, 2013 6:16:10 AM

Thanks for the update, more information is always helpful.

I was thinking a few hours ago ( I do that, sometimes) that the bios updates would have reset any overclocking and that could be the reason the PC works better after each bios update.

I'm still not clear as to whether having the PSU fan facing down to the desk is such a good idea, it just seems that there wouldn't be much air flow or circulation around it, the desk would probably get real hot or melt if the desk had a plastic cover however, it seems to be the "in" thing nowadays and there doesn't seem to be any threads about the concerns for it.

The main problem of this army tank type of motherboard is that you can't see whether the 12v motherboard connector actually is fully utilized by the proper cabling, or if there is actually any dust in between the armour plating and the motherboard. They say it's dust proof but, is it, really? Another thread I'll have to go look for :/ 


The only thing that gives you problems is overclocking so set everything back to default or standard settings and just leave them that way. You really don't need to overclock anything, it's a good rig as it stands.
April 20, 2013 1:08:19 PM

TenPc said:
Thanks for the update, more information is always helpful.

I was thinking a few hours ago ( I do that, sometimes) that the bios updates would have reset any overclocking and that could be the reason the PC works better after each bios update.

I'm still not clear as to whether having the PSU fan facing down to the desk is such a good idea, it just seems that there wouldn't be much air flow or circulation around it, the desk would probably get real hot or melt if the desk had a plastic cover however, it seems to be the "in" thing nowadays and there doesn't seem to be any threads about the concerns for it.

The main problem of this army tank type of motherboard is that you can't see whether the 12v motherboard connector actually is fully utilized by the proper cabling, or if there is actually any dust in between the armour plating and the motherboard. They say it's dust proof but, is it, really? Another thread I'll have to go look for :/ 


The only thing that gives you problems is overclocking so set everything back to default or standard settings and just leave them that way. You really don't need to overclock anything, it's a good rig as it stands.


As far as dust goes, I use a pancake compressor to blast the dust out on a monthly basis.

I did notice that with each BIOS update the clock speed was reset to factory, however, I typically put it right back up after a fresh restart shortly after updating.

After more extensive testing, I have concluded that it is indeed the overclocking that's causing this issue. I don't know why it was crashing prior to the system restore with all the other tests done at factory clocks, but now it's pretty much cpu oc = crash and cpu factory = no crash. It's just odd that after months of using the CPU on "performance" overclock, it just starts crashing now.

Now, on to the cpu. I'm not very savvy when it comes to overclocking, I know just the basics about GPUs, but nothing about CPUs. What could be occurring that is causing the computer to freeze up in relation to the CPU? Is there an application I can use to monitor cpu activity, voltage, temperate etc to try to find a pattern and see specifically what it is? The AI Suite II program I have doesn't seem to give accurate readings. The GPU temp shows at least 10 degrees lower than compared to GPUz. I'm not sure if the CPU is incorrect since I have no other application to read temps for it.



Yes, the cpu cooler is on straight.
April 20, 2013 5:50:01 PM

Using Open Hardware monitoring application, I ran the cpu at factory clocks and got these results after about 2 hours:

Note: The 3 values are min / current / and max
Quote:

Open Hardware Monitor Report

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Version: 0.5.1.0

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Common Language Runtime: 4.0.30319.296
Operating System: Microsoft Windows NT 6.1.7601 Service Pack 1
Process Type: 64-Bit

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sensors

|
+- ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 (/mainboard)
| |
| +- Nuvoton NCT6779D (/lpc/nct6779d)
| | +- CPU VCore : 0.976 0.048 1.208 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/0)
| | +- Voltage #2 : 1.024 1.016 2.04 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/1)
| | +- AVCC : 3.392 3.344 3.408 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/2)
| | +- 3VCC : 3.392 0.064 3.408 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/3)
| | +- Voltage #5 : 1.008 0.048 1.016 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/4)
| | +- Voltage #6 : 2.04 2.04 2.04 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/5)
| | +- Voltage #7 : 1.488 1.488 1.488 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/6)
| | +- 3VSB : 3.424 3.408 3.424 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/7)
| | +- VBAT : 3.36 3.344 3.376 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/8)
| | +- VTT : 1.072 1.072 1.08 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/9)
| | +- Voltage #11 : 1.488 1.488 1.496 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/10)
| | +- Voltage #12 : 1.488 1.48 1.488 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/11)
| | +- Voltage #13 : 0.24 0.224 0.248 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/12)
| | +- Voltage #14 : 0.176 0.168 0.184 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/13)
| | +- Voltage #15 : 1.488 1.488 1.488 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/14)
| | +- CPU Core : 31.5 0 40.5 (/lpc/nct6779d/temperature/0)
| | +- Temperature #1 : 0.5 0 0.5 (/lpc/nct6779d/temperature/1)
| | +- Temperature #2 : 26 24 29 (/lpc/nct6779d/temperature/2)
| | +- Temperature #3 : 0 0 0 (/lpc/nct6779d/temperature/3)
| | +- Temperature #4 : 0 0 0 (/lpc/nct6779d/temperature/4)
| | +- Temperature #5 : 0 0 1 (/lpc/nct6779d/temperature/5)
| | +- Temperature #6 : 0 0 0 (/lpc/nct6779d/temperature/6)
| | +- Fan #1 : 0 0 1279 (/lpc/nct6779d/fan/0)
| | +- Fan #2 : 1062 1012 1262 (/lpc/nct6779d/fan/1)
| | +- Fan #3 : 0 0 32768 (/lpc/nct6779d/fan/2)
| | +- Fan Control #1 : 60.7843 60 69.8039 (/lpc/nct6779d/control/0)
| | +- Fan Control #2 : 32.1569 23.1373 41.9608 (/lpc/nct6779d/control/1)
| | +- Fan Control #3 : 60.7843 60 69.8039 (/lpc/nct6779d/control/2)
| | +- Fan Control #4 : 60.7843 60 69.8039 (/lpc/nct6779d/control/3)
| | +- Fan Control #5 : 60.7843 60 69.8039 (/lpc/nct6779d/control/4)
|
+- Intel Core i7-3770K (/intelcpu/0)
| +- Bus Speed : 100.295 100.291 100.299 (/intelcpu/0/clock/0)
| +- CPU Core #1 : 1604.72 1604.72 3911.51 (/intelcpu/0/clock/1)
| +- CPU Core #2 : 1604.72 1604.72 3911.51 (/intelcpu/0/clock/2)
| +- CPU Core #3 : 1604.72 1604.72 3911.51 (/intelcpu/0/clock/3)
| +- CPU Core #4 : 1604.72 1604.72 3911.51 (/intelcpu/0/clock/4)
| +- CPU Core #1 : 30 25 52 (/intelcpu/0/temperature/0)
| +- CPU Core #2 : 27 21 52 (/intelcpu/0/temperature/1)
| +- CPU Core #3 : 30 25 54 (/intelcpu/0/temperature/2)
| +- CPU Core #4 : 38 33 54 (/intelcpu/0/temperature/3)
| +- CPU Package : 38 33 54 (/intelcpu/0/temperature/4)
| +- CPU Total : 0.769234 0.384617 86.3462 (/intelcpu/0/load/0)
| +- CPU Core #1 : 0.769234 0 85.3846 (/intelcpu/0/load/1)
| +- CPU Core #2 : 0 0 88.4615 (/intelcpu/0/load/2)
| +- CPU Core #3 : 0.769234 0 87.6923 (/intelcpu/0/load/3)
| +- CPU Core #4 : 1.53846 0 86.9231 (/intelcpu/0/load/4)
| +- CPU Package : 12.4024 11.046 52.3704 (/intelcpu/0/power/0)
| +- CPU Cores : 6.3937 5.09589 45.2665 (/intelcpu/0/power/1)
| +- CPU Graphics : 0 0 0 (/intelcpu/0/power/2)
|
+- 04CD F3-12800CL9-4GBRL (/ram)
| +- Memory : 18.1854 15.3809 27.3774 (/ram/load/0)
| +- Used Memory : 2.90021 2.45293 4.36614 (/ram/data/0)
| +- Available Memory : 13.0478 11.5818 13.495 (/ram/data/1)
|
+- NVIDIA GeForce GTX 670 (/nvidiagpu/0)
| +- GPU Core : 862.258 0 1149.68 (/nvidiagpu/0/clock/0)
| +- GPU Memory : 3004.68 324 3004.68 (/nvidiagpu/0/clock/1)
| +- GPU Shader : 1724.52 0 2299.35 (/nvidiagpu/0/clock/2)
| +- GPU Core : 42 27 61 (/nvidiagpu/0/temperature/0)
| +- GPU Core : 0 0 99 (/nvidiagpu/0/load/0)
| +- GPU Memory Controller : 0 0 51 (/nvidiagpu/0/load/1)
| +- GPU Video Engine : 0 0 0 (/nvidiagpu/0/load/2)
| +- GPU Memory : 7.56551 7.5491 96.9348 (/nvidiagpu/0/load/3)
| +- GPU : 840 630 1830 (/nvidiagpu/0/fan/0)
| +- GPU Fan : 28 20 41 (/nvidiagpu/0/control/0)
|
+- NVIDIA GeForce GTX 670 (/nvidiagpu/1)
| +- GPU Core : 324 0 1175.81 (/nvidiagpu/1/clock/0)
| +- GPU Memory : 324 324 3004.68 (/nvidiagpu/1/clock/1)
| +- GPU Shader : 648 0 2351.61 (/nvidiagpu/1/clock/2)
| +- GPU Core : 44 28 69 (/nvidiagpu/1/temperature/0)
| +- GPU Core : 1 0 99 (/nvidiagpu/1/load/0)
| +- GPU Memory Controller : 3 0 52 (/nvidiagpu/1/load/1)
| +- GPU Video Engine : 0 0 0 (/nvidiagpu/1/load/2)
| +- GPU Memory : 7.56551 7.5491 96.9348 (/nvidiagpu/1/load/3)
| +- GPU : 990 720 2340 (/nvidiagpu/1/fan/0)
| +- GPU Fan : 29 20 46 (/nvidiagpu/1/control/0)
|
+- KINGSTON SH103S3120G (/hdd/0)
| +- Temperature : 22 22 22 (/hdd/0/temperature/0)
| +- Used Space : 72.3136 72.3136 72.3136 (/hdd/0/load/0)
| +- Remaining Life : 100 100 100 (/hdd/0/level/0)
| +- Write Amplification : 1.45852 1.45797 1.45852 (/hdd/0/factor/1)
| +- Controller Writes to NAND : 2637 2636 2637 (/hdd/0/data/0)
| +- Host Writes to Controller : 1808 1808 1808 (/hdd/0/data/1)
| +- Host Reads : 775 775 775 (/hdd/0/data/2)
|
+- M4-CT256M4SSD2 (/hdd/1)
| +- Used Space : 83.8415 83.8404 83.8445 (/hdd/1/load/0)
| +- Remaining Life : 100 100 100 (/hdd/1/level/0)
|
+- ST2000DM001-9YN164 (/hdd/2)
| +- Temperature : 27 21 27 (/hdd/2/temperature/0)
| +- Used Space : 19.9939 19.9939 19.9939 (/hdd/2/load/0)

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Parameters

|
+- ASUS SABERTOOTH Z77 (/mainboard)
| |
| +- Nuvoton NCT6779D (/lpc/nct6779d)
| | |
| | +- CPU VCore (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/0)
| | | +- Ri [kΩ] : 0 : 0
| | | +- Rf [kΩ] : 1 : 1
| | | +- Vf [V] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- Voltage #2 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/1)
| | | +- Ri [kΩ] : 0 : 0
| | | +- Rf [kΩ] : 1 : 1
| | | +- Vf [V] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- AVCC (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/2)
| | | +- Ri [kΩ] : 34 : 34
| | | +- Rf [kΩ] : 34 : 34
| | | +- Vf [V] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- 3VCC (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/3)
| | | +- Ri [kΩ] : 34 : 34
| | | +- Rf [kΩ] : 34 : 34
| | | +- Vf [V] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- Voltage #5 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/4)
| | | +- Ri [kΩ] : 0 : 0
| | | +- Rf [kΩ] : 1 : 1
| | | +- Vf [V] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- Voltage #6 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/5)
| | | +- Ri [kΩ] : 0 : 0
| | | +- Rf [kΩ] : 1 : 1
| | | +- Vf [V] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- Voltage #7 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/6)
| | | +- Ri [kΩ] : 0 : 0
| | | +- Rf [kΩ] : 1 : 1
| | | +- Vf [V] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- 3VSB (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/7)
| | | +- Ri [kΩ] : 34 : 34
| | | +- Rf [kΩ] : 34 : 34
| | | +- Vf [V] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- VBAT (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/8)
| | | +- Ri [kΩ] : 34 : 34
| | | +- Rf [kΩ] : 34 : 34
| | | +- Vf [V] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- VTT (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/9)
| | | +- Ri [kΩ] : 0 : 0
| | | +- Rf [kΩ] : 1 : 1
| | | +- Vf [V] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- Voltage #11 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/10)
| | | +- Ri [kΩ] : 0 : 0
| | | +- Rf [kΩ] : 1 : 1
| | | +- Vf [V] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- Voltage #12 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/11)
| | | +- Ri [kΩ] : 0 : 0
| | | +- Rf [kΩ] : 1 : 1
| | | +- Vf [V] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- Voltage #13 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/12)
| | | +- Ri [kΩ] : 0 : 0
| | | +- Rf [kΩ] : 1 : 1
| | | +- Vf [V] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- Voltage #14 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/13)
| | | +- Ri [kΩ] : 0 : 0
| | | +- Rf [kΩ] : 1 : 1
| | | +- Vf [V] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- Voltage #15 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/14)
| | | +- Ri [kΩ] : 0 : 0
| | | +- Rf [kΩ] : 1 : 1
| | | +- Vf [V] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- CPU Core (/lpc/nct6779d/temperature/0)
| | | +- Offset [°C] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- Temperature #1 (/lpc/nct6779d/temperature/1)
| | | +- Offset [°C] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- Temperature #2 (/lpc/nct6779d/temperature/2)
| | | +- Offset [°C] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- Temperature #3 (/lpc/nct6779d/temperature/3)
| | | +- Offset [°C] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- Temperature #4 (/lpc/nct6779d/temperature/4)
| | | +- Offset [°C] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- Temperature #5 (/lpc/nct6779d/temperature/5)
| | | +- Offset [°C] : 0 : 0
| | |
| | +- Temperature #6 (/lpc/nct6779d/temperature/6)
| | | +- Offset [°C] : 0 : 0
|
+- Intel Core i7-3770K (/intelcpu/0)
| |
| +- CPU Core #1 (/intelcpu/0/temperature/0)
| | +- TjMax [°C] : 105 : 105
| | +- TSlope [°C] : 1 : 1
| |
| +- CPU Core #2 (/intelcpu/0/temperature/1)
| | +- TjMax [°C] : 105 : 105
| | +- TSlope [°C] : 1 : 1
| |
| +- CPU Core #3 (/intelcpu/0/temperature/2)
| | +- TjMax [°C] : 105 : 105
| | +- TSlope [°C] : 1 : 1
| |
| +- CPU Core #4 (/intelcpu/0/temperature/3)
| | +- TjMax [°C] : 105 : 105
| | +- TSlope [°C] : 1 : 1
| |
| +- CPU Package (/intelcpu/0/temperature/4)
| | +- TjMax [°C] : 105 : 105
| | +- TSlope [°C] : 1 : 1
|
+- 04CD F3-12800CL9-4GBRL (/ram)
|
+- NVIDIA GeForce GTX 670 (/nvidiagpu/0)
|
+- NVIDIA GeForce GTX 670 (/nvidiagpu/1)
|
+- KINGSTON SH103S3120G (/hdd/0)
| |
| +- Temperature (/hdd/0/temperature/0)
| | +- Offset [°C] : 0 : 0
|
+- M4-CT256M4SSD2 (/hdd/1)
|
+- ST2000DM001-9YN164 (/hdd/2)
| |
| +- Temperature (/hdd/2/temperature/0)
| | +- Offset [°C] : 0 : 0






Then, I ran it again with the cpu overclocked. Since the system crashes and the application doesn't feature live recording, I had to take screenshots through a remote server during the crash. The first 2 are about 20 minutes in:




The next 2 are right when the crash occurred:




Are there any irregularities that anyone can notice with these results as to why the computer may be crashing?
April 20, 2013 7:39:07 PM

Analysis of this type of thing is for more advanced users however, I noticed that your Bus Speed was only 103mhz. It seems rather low, more for a Pc back in 2004, I'll do some more research for that one.

What is the speed of your ram? OOPS! Found it, it's 1600mhz CL9, according to the info table.
Does your system specs actually recognise all of your 16gb of ram? What version Windows 7?
Windows 7 Home Basic - 4 GB (x32), 8 GB x64 memory limit.
http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/desktop...(v=vs.85).aspx


I'm not sure about this however, quad core ram has a specific serial number -
G.Skill DDR3-1600 16GB Quad Channel [Ripjaws] F3-12800CL9Q-16GBRL

The number referenced by the utility states -
04CD F3-12800CL9-4GBRL

The QVL list for the ram states that the 4GBRL is only 2 x 2gb, you would need
F3-12800CL7Q-16GBXH(XMP) (4x4gb) @1.6v, or
F3-12800CL9Q-16GBXL(XMP) 4x4gb @ 1.5v
to attain 16gb of ram.
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#suppor...
April 20, 2013 7:49:03 PM

According to G.Skill, the Sabertooth Z77 list of ram that is acceptable -
http://www.gskill.com/configurator2.php?pid=2&search2=U...

the nearest to your ram -
[ Ripjaws] F3-12800CL9S-4GBRL (4Gx1) / F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL (4Gx2)
DDR3-1600 PC3 12800 4GB(4GB x 1) / 8GB(4GB x 2) CL 9-9-9-24-2N 1.5 Volts XMP Ready for 1st, 2nd and 3rd Generation Intel Core Processors Compatible with AMD platform

Which means that you can only uses as much as 1 x 4gb.
April 20, 2013 7:49:47 PM

if you look at this | +- Voltage #2 : 1.024 1.016 2.04 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/1) then +- Voltage #6 : 2.04 2.04 2.04 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/5)the raise to 2.04 volts and these other are out of range | | +- Voltage #13 : 0.24 0.224 0.248 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/12)
| | +- Voltage #14 : 0.176 0.168 0.184 (/lpc/nct6779d/voltage/13) then if you loo at the to other you took with your ipad there a power issue it could be from the board the cpu since even the temp sensor are not readind well ,stay around someone who use intel could give you a clue on this .
April 20, 2013 7:56:22 PM

TenPc said:
Analysis of this type of thing is for more advanced users however, I noticed that your Bus Speed was only 103mhz. It seems rather low, more for a Pc back in 2004, I'll do some more research for that one.

What is the speed of your ram? OOPS! Found it, it's 1600mhz CL9, according to the info table.
Does your system specs actually recognise all of your 16gb of ram? What version Windows 7?
Windows 7 Home Basic - 4 GB (x32), 8 GB x64 memory limit.
http://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/windows/desktop...(v=vs.85).aspx


I'm not sure about this however, quad core ram has a specific serial number -
G.Skill DDR3-1600 16GB Quad Channel [Ripjaws] F3-12800CL9Q-16GBRL

The number referenced by the utility states -
04CD F3-12800CL9-4GBRL

The QVL list for the ram states that the 4GBRL is only 2 x 2gb, you would need
F3-12800CL7Q-16GBXH(XMP) (4x4gb) @1.6v, or
F3-12800CL9Q-16GBXL(XMP) 4x4gb @ 1.5v
to attain 16gb of ram.
http://www.asus.com/Motherboards/SABERTOOTH_Z77/#suppor...


TenPc said:
According to G.Skill, the Sabertooth Z77 list of ram that is acceptable -
http://www.gskill.com/configurator2.php?pid=2&search2=U...

the nearest to your ram -
[ Ripjaws] F3-12800CL9S-4GBRL (4Gx1) / F3-12800CL9D-8GBRL (4Gx2)
DDR3-1600 PC3 12800 4GB(4GB x 1) / 8GB(4GB x 2) CL 9-9-9-24-2N 1.5 Volts XMP Ready for 1st, 2nd and 3rd Generation Intel Core Processors Compatible with AMD platform

Which means that you can only uses as much as 1 x 4gb.


Here is what I purchased for memory: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

I am on 64 bit Windows Ultimate. The memory amount is recognized accurately.
April 20, 2013 8:06:55 PM

Here's a screenshot from CPU Z for the memory.

April 20, 2013 8:07:06 PM

F3-12800CL9Q-16GBRL

The number in the info sheet (Open Hardware Monitor) states - 04CD F3-12800CL9-4GBRL

Turn off the PC at power point or rocker switch and take out a ram stick, there should be a label on one of them to check the actual serial number.
April 20, 2013 8:08:11 PM

TenPc said:
F3-12800CL9Q-16GBRL

The number in the info sheet (Open Hardware Monitor) states - 04CD F3-12800CL9-4GBRL

Turn off the PC at power point or rocker switch and take out a ram stick, there should be a label on one of them to check the actual serial number.


I did this just a moment ago, the sticks also say 16gbrl.

Best solution

April 20, 2013 8:19:26 PM
Share

Cas Latency 11 clocks infers CL11 rather than CL9 or that you have overclocked the ram again from 9 to 11.

"The latency numbers refer to the number of clock cycles it takes for certain actions to be performed. Lower numbers imply better performance."
reference - http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20090712020...
April 20, 2013 8:25:21 PM

TenPc said:
Cas Latency 11 clocks infers CL11 rather than CL9 or that you have overclocked the ram again from 9 to 11.


This is with the CPU at factory. I do believe that the Asus overclock utility does tune the RAM a bit, though I'm not 100%. I looked through the advanced settings and saw memory there in the section for the CPU overclock. But either way, that screenshot was taken with the mode set to "normal" which is factory.

There is also the MemOK! switch present, is this something I should try?

Edit: Oh, so 11 clocks is worse than 9. Why am I getting slower clocks that advertised?
April 20, 2013 8:39:29 PM

since this quad channel memory kit is not on the asus list if you try only 2 stick as a dual will the system work .
April 20, 2013 8:55:38 PM

In the BIOS, ai tuner was set to auto, I changed it to XMP and there was a profile already optimized with the correct timings. CPU z now shows the correct readings.

April 20, 2013 9:31:41 PM

At least we got a good result from that exercise, something to scratch off our list :)  So the ram timing is set to the proper timing, however, there is still the issue of the ram itself. As scout_03 suggests, try using just two sticks of ram. You don't really get better memory support with 16gb or ram when playing PC games, 16gb is best for virtual drives, programming, movie-making etc. Also, PC gamers recommend i5 CPU rather than an i7, you get better performance from i5.

The only other thing about the ram, all sticks should be marked equally the same, sometimes some brands have kit numbers like 1/2, 2/2 but otherwise, the serial number should be identical on each stick of ram. You should check it out.

[rant]
The dram frequency, which is a hot debate as to whether it should be shared or each stick holds its own 1600mhz, is something to ponder :) 
I can only assume, from the results, that each set of paired ram are sharing the 1600mhz. Usually, ram with the volume stated in the serial number refers to the total volume of the ram for example 16GBRL infers 4 x 4gb ram modules. CPUZ seems to infer that the mhz is also split between the four sticks. It's not always the case unless the ram sticks are only 800mhz each and not actually 1600mhz each. I suppose, for now, that's not neither here nor there, and could be a new thread for discussion but I expect I'd be shot down rather quickly :( 
[/rant]

The only other issue that I've noticed is that you are using a 2.5inch SSD - Crucial M4 256GB SSD.
A review has stated, though that your SSD requires TRIM support - http://www.pcmag.com/article2/0,2817,2387386,00.asp
April 20, 2013 9:51:59 PM

I found something interesting, it's rather outdated but you might be able to change the setting in your bios -
"You need to check your motherboard to see what type it will accept. But here's the catch, the 200Mhz is really running at 100; the 266Mhz is running at 133Mhz, the 300 MHZ at 150 Mhz. Our BIOS must be set for the DRAM Frequency to 266 in order for the RAM to run at 133. Oh, and by the way, that RAMBUS RAM runs at 800Mhz! If your RAM is not listed here, it was not available at the time of this writing."

http://www.easydesksoftware.com/news/news22.htm
"Some manufacturers, especially Kingston and Super Talent have a marketing ploy of packaging RAM in pairs totalling a specific capacity, usually 512 MB and 1 or 2 GB. In these cases, each stick has only one half of the total capacity; eg. a 1GB "Kit of 2" consists of two 512 MB sticks."

So, you see, I'm not totally wrong in the specs of the shared ram capacity. :bounce: 

Getting back to the issue at hand, the CPUZ still records the 4gb serial number - 04CD F3-12800CL9-4GBRL, I wonder why that occurs?
Check each stick serial number, as in previous post, they should be equally identical. If there are any with different serial numbers, you've been ripped and could RMA the ram.

April 20, 2013 11:00:10 PM

TenPc said:
I found something interesting, it's rather outdated but you might be able to change the setting in your bios -
"You need to check your motherboard to see what type it will accept. But here's the catch, the 200Mhz is really running at 100; the 266Mhz is running at 133Mhz, the 300 MHZ at 150 Mhz. Our BIOS must be set for the DRAM Frequency to 266 in order for the RAM to run at 133. Oh, and by the way, that RAMBUS RAM runs at 800Mhz! If your RAM is not listed here, it was not available at the time of this writing."

http://www.easydesksoftware.com/news/news22.htm
"Some manufacturers, especially Kingston and Super Talent have a marketing ploy of packaging RAM in pairs totalling a specific capacity, usually 512 MB and 1 or 2 GB. In these cases, each stick has only one half of the total capacity; eg. a 1GB "Kit of 2" consists of two 512 MB sticks."

So, you see, I'm not totally wrong in the specs of the shared ram capacity. :bounce: 

Getting back to the issue at hand, the CPUZ still records the 4gb serial number - 04CD F3-12800CL9-4GBRL, I wonder why that occurs?
Check each stick serial number, as in previous post, they should be equally identical. If there are any with different serial numbers, you've been ripped and could RMA the ram.



Thank you TenPC and scout_03 for your tireless efforts in aiding.

What would I be looking for if I run the system with 2 sticks? The system crashed with only 1 stick if this 2 stick experiment is asking to test the crash aspect.

Also, when looking up how to enable XMP on my bios, I noticed screen shots of other members who had 16gb that also showed in the model number for their memory as 4gb and not necessarily g.skill.

But yes, at least this issue was resolved easily enough. But the main issue here is the freezing due to overclocking on the CPU. While I understand the i5 may be better for gaming, I do utilize the features of the i7 in non-gaming. And either way, it's a bit late to return the i7 for an i5 or any other piece of hardware for that matter unless it was causing an issue.

As far as the hard drive goes, the note about TRIM support, it's offered on Windows 7 so no worries there. I suppose it bears mentioning, the 256gb drive is specifically for games. No other files on there but Steam and game clients. The OS is on the 128gb drive.

I will check out the individual sticks momentarily and report back on that as well.
April 21, 2013 7:48:33 AM

F3-12800CL9-4GBRL, there have been lots of problem with this ram specification, even the 16gbRL also has had some bad reviews, most people say that only 2 stciks actually work.

G.Skill does not list your motherboard as being compatible with your ram serial number, you need to replace the ram with whatever is listed in their QVL list.
http://www.gskill.com/configurator2.php?pid=2&search2=U...

as for the SSD, I irk at the thought of using s laptop hdd in a desktop Pc but it is very common to do it nowadays. The problem would have been worse if you had used a SATA disk drive (2.5 inch) but am unsure of the SSD 2.5 inch drives, hopefully you have it securely fixed and that it does not wobble or rattle in its fitting. Either of them.

The main issue with smaller volume hdd's is that they quickly run out of memory space, you have to maintain a minimum of 25% free space otherwise the virtual memory ets used up rather quickly, the PC slows to a crawl and possibly will BSOD or just shut down. You can't use the regular Defrag by Windows, it will possibly destroy the memory cells in the SSD, you can only use a program called DEFRAGGLER, if you actually intend on defraggling, SSD's don't need defragging, per se, but can get rather slow when the volume of free space is less than required.
April 21, 2013 9:32:29 AM

TenPc said:
F3-12800CL9-4GBRL, there have been lots of problem with this ram specification, even the 16gbRL also has had some bad reviews, most people say that only 2 stciks actually work.

G.Skill does not list your motherboard as being compatible with your ram serial number, you need to replace the ram with whatever is listed in their QVL list.
http://www.gskill.com/configurator2.php?pid=2&search2=U...

as for the SSD, I irk at the thought of using s laptop hdd in a desktop Pc but it is very common to do it nowadays. The problem would have been worse if you had used a SATA disk drive (2.5 inch) but am unsure of the SSD 2.5 inch drives, hopefully you have it securely fixed and that it does not wobble or rattle in its fitting. Either of them.

The main issue with smaller volume hdd's is that they quickly run out of memory space, you have to maintain a minimum of 25% free space otherwise the virtual memory ets used up rather quickly, the PC slows to a crawl and possibly will BSOD or just shut down. You can't use the regular Defrag by Windows, it will possibly destroy the memory cells in the SSD, you can only use a program called DEFRAGGLER, if you actually intend on defraggling, SSD's don't need defragging, per se, but can get rather slow when the volume of free space is less than required.


When you say 2 sticks "work", what do you mean by that? That it will only recognize 8GB or that it will only work as a dual channel, or something else?

According to ASUS, incompatible ram causes boot failures. The mobo has a MemOK! switch that tunes incompatible memory to work with the mobo if an issue persists.

The reason for the 2.5" ssd is because no other size exists. 2.5" is the only size available for ssd and from what I saw, they are ideal for gaming and reliability. Typically they come with desktop adapters to house them securely. Do you have more information on the 25% capacity bit? Both of my ssd drives currently have less than 25% capacity and I see no performance degradation.

I have some good news. I was poking around in the bios last night and enabled the "performance" overclock again to actually see what is changed. In this overclock, the memory is also overclocked. I don't remember exactly what it was, but I want to say it was like ddr3-1837 or something strange like that. So, I enabled the "performance" overclock, and then changed the memory back to the aforementioned XMP "profile 1" to get the desired factory performance from the ram. Apparently doing this lowers the CPU overclock just a bit as well because they go hand in hand it seems.

As mentioned, I'm not familiar with overclocking, just the basics. So I'm not sure if doing what I did is stable or completely wrong. However, it provided good results. I left a game running for 4 hours and no crash! Typically with the overclock, it's been crashing within an hour or so. While this is great since I get to OC the cpu a bit (4.1 ghz), I feel a bit insecure as I'm not comfortable editing the settings of a preset oc as the cpu and memory oc seem to go hand in hand.
April 21, 2013 1:10:45 PM

i would do more test with those settings for at least a week to see if it will crash did you have all the 4 sticks of memory in set in channel a and b ?
April 21, 2013 5:50:16 PM

I think you need to start a thread in the Overclocking Category. What is the reason to overclock the cpu?
What replies do you get in other forums, anything better than what we have offered? lol

When you fitted the motherboard, were there any left over standoffs? Apparently, any that don't have holes in the motherboard seem to cause problems, they might be touching some of the circuitry or welds underneath and seem to "tickle" the settings.

The MeMOK button is used when you don't get a display output, no POST on power on. Watch the Youtube video, it is shows you how to use the button. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9azllBzU5PU Basically, only to be used when there is no POST display, hold the button for 3 seconds or until the MeMOk light is flashing and wait for the bios to re-affirm the memory configuration, takes a few seconds and then the output display works.


You've got about 17% (16.7%) free space on your primary hdd (ssd), you could go as low as 10gb but you would crash the system the moment you did anything that required virtual space as you have none to offer. My chiropractor had as low as 2gb free space (win7 x32) and over 50 desktop icons, most of them were not shortcuts either, he managaed to get to desktop but couldn't access any programs nor explorer and he wondered why lol I just happened to rock up that day for a quick neck re-alignment and luck for him I found the free space somewhat lacking. He fixed the problem and gave me a free session. :bounce: 

The free spoace is used by the sytem to double your GPU vram, to use as temp files, and to enable programs and software to work. When a program or even internet is enabled, they use temp storage to enable the user to actually see output on the screen, video uses temp storage for caching information prior to displaying, printers use spooling (caching) prior to printing, and everyting else as well.

One might assume that the ram should be doing all of that however, ram is just temporary on the fly memory where as virtual memory of the hdd is kept until the user closes a program or shuts down. Ram (are like the blue collar workers) just makes the processes run faster, the less ram you have, the slower your PC despite having a fast CPU which one might assume that the CPU was supposed to make the PC run faster. The CPU just processes data bits of information, makes the computations (it's like an accountant). The more ram you have, the faster the information is transferred to the gpu and hdd. The virtual memory (of the hdd/SSD) is much akin to the Manager of the Company, he/she has all the knowledge to ensure the system is doing its job, and does not release that memory until most of the other "workers have gone home". :) 
!