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First Water Cooling Build.

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April 24, 2013 7:22:47 PM

I have posted this on another forum, but hopefully can get a few more answers here.

I am looking at my first watercooling build. Probably just my CPU at first and then may venture into the GPU depending on how easy it is and how I like it. First Up I don't really need to do it for temps, I am getting about 70deg for both CPU and GPU which doesn't bother me. I would like to do it to make my case a bit quieter, maybe looks and also just to see if I can do it (a challenge for myself if you will)

My system;

Fractal Design R4
Asus P8Z77-V-LK
Intel 3570K
8 GB GSkill Ram
ASUS GTX670

Currently running 3 Intake fans, two Exhausts and a 212 EVO cpu cooler

I have overclocked the CPU to 4.2, which I might want to push, to around 4.5 (seems like I would be close to the limit on air for my cooler.) and the GPU is at 1125 boost clock (factory its 980)

Here are the parts that I am looking at. If there are any better ones that I can pick please let me know.

XSPC Raystorm CPU block
Primoflex white tubing
Compression fittings
XPSC X20750 dual bay res/pump
Silver coil (plus distilled water)
XPSC EX240 Rad (already own) (edited to the correct one)
Corsair AF120 quiet edition. (already own)

I purchased the RS240 as I measured in my case and it should just fit (going to test it later tonight) Plus if it has more than enough clearance I didnt really waste much money.

A couple of other things I was considering:

Is it worth buying quick disconnects for the Pump/Res? Main reason why was so I could test the system outside of my rig and not risk leakage onto any components (and would be easy to pull apart and drain if needed)

A bay res/pump combo vs a tube one. Not sure which way to go. I like the bay reservoirs as they neaten it all up a fair amount. The X20 750 combo seems to be a good choice with price/performance/noise. But if there are any better ones out there please let me know.

The other thing I have been looking at is the EK water blocks. The main reason is that they have a block for my GPU and if I do venture into it (which would probably be likely) the CPU and GPU would match.

Thanks for your imput

More about : water cooling build

a c 168 K Overclocking
April 24, 2013 8:21:41 PM

If you haven't read the water-cooling sticky already, I suggest you do. Has a lot of useful info in there.
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/277130-29-read-first-...

The loop you have specced out is fairly decent for a CPU only loop, but to include a GPU some stuff will have to change.

- The X20 750 V4 pump is fine or a CPU loop, but its not that great once you add more restriction to the loop (namely, the GPU block). I suggest you outright buy a better pump to save yourself money in the long run. Otherwise you could be stuck in the situation where you need to buy a better pump to upgrade the loop and increasing the cost significantly, which is where I am right now. Something like a D5 pump would do.

- Radiator space is going to be an issue when you add in the GPU. The RS240 is enough for the CPU, but wont be able to deal with both. Radiator space in the R4 is limited unless your willing to remove the drive bays or externally mount, which you might have to do to accommodate the graphics card. If at all possible, see if you can replace the RS240 with an EX240. Its a better model that can dissipate more heat despite having similar dimensions.

Your questions.
- I dont think it would be worth it, they are quite expensive and arent all that useful unless your regularly have to change the loop. To make it easy to drain, include a T-Line or drain valve.
- See my point on the pump above. After using the X20 750 V2, I'm upgrading too a dedicated pump and separate reservoir, just gives you more flexibility and I think will avoid the issues I'v had with bay mounted pump's (vibration induced noise).

When it comes to GPU cooling, your options in terms of blocks depends on whether or not your card uses a reference design PCB. If it does, you have the capability of using Universal and Full-Cover blocks, while if it uses a custom design PCB your effectively limited to Universal. Look up the model number of the card on Cooling Configurator, that will tell you if its a reference design PCB and any compatible (EK only, since they own the site) water-blocks.
April 24, 2013 9:23:52 PM

Thanks,

Oops, Sorry I did buy the EX240, it was the RX240 that I think would get in the way. As I measured only about 30-40mm clearance before it would hit the RAM, with one fan.

I have read the watercooling sticky, great info in there. Its where I based some of the parts I got, however I might re-read the whole thing again before completely deciding.

Right now, I was hoping the 240 rad would be enough then I could add 140 rad for the GPU or another 240 at the front. I think people have been able to make it fit.

I guess having a seperate pump isnt the end of the world. I just wanted to keep them together to make it neater. Is something like THIS with a D5 going to be better? or is it best to get a larger capacity reservoir? or even something like THIS but I cant seem to find it in any local stores.

The quick disconnects were my only thought mainly so I can test for leaking outside of the case. I guess spending an extra $60 on that probably isn't really worth it.

In regards to the GPU EK have THIS which is specifically designed for my card apparently.
Related resources
a c 168 K Overclocking
April 24, 2013 10:02:27 PM

Ahh, a fellow Aussie :) .
Funnily enough, I just purchased a bunch of water-cooling stuff from PCCG this morning. Great store BTW.

The EX240 will be plenty for the CPU, so that's not an issue. But you need some more radiator space when you include the GPU, especially if your overclocking. What I did was externally mount a radiator, means you don't have to give up drive bays.
http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o537/Manofchalk/IMG...

In terms of pumping power, something like that would be better yes.
The size of the reservoir has no real impact to performance, its only when your talking literal buckets of it does the volume of water change anything. A larger reservoir does make it a bit quicker to fill and bleed the loop though.

When you leak test the loop, everything other than the pump should be disconnected from power. So even if it does leak, nothing will be damaged.

Then I guess your fine for water-block compatibility then :p .

Have you thought about fans?
How will you drain the loop after its assembled?
April 25, 2013 2:54:56 AM

Just checked and the rad just fits with the ports down at the 5.25 end. I guess this means that if I do go the drive bay option I would have to consider the depth and how much flex the tube has in it, as I would have to leave extra space to be able to pull it out and fill it if needed.

I was also hoping to be able to mount a 140 rad at the back, but that doesn't look possible as space is so tight. Like if the rad was about 5-10mm longer it would have interfered with the back I/O ports on the motherboard. And with fans on one side it just clears the RAM, however I think if I tried to take the heatsink or what ever it is off the RAM it would be fine.

I havnt really thought about how I am going to drain the loop, my initial idea was to have a separate drainage port or tube, however I am not sure where it would go or how to do it. I guess I will figure that out when I choose the pump and everything. My idea was the quick disconnects - but if I go away from that then I will need to figure something else out.



a c 168 K Overclocking
April 25, 2013 3:30:28 AM

Angled adapters are what you need in that kind of situation.

You could mount the fan on the outside of the case with the rad on the inside, or externally mount the rad+fan setup.

You could use something called a T-Line to drain the loop.
http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o537/Manofchalk/IMG...
You can make them from a few fittings, though there are dedicated drain valves available.
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_i...
April 26, 2013 2:33:25 AM

I Have decided on these parts.

Pump: Koolance PMP-450
Reservoir: XSPC Acrylic Dual 5.25” Reservoir
CPU Block: EK Supremacy CPU Waterblock Clean CSQ Plexi
Tubing: PrimoFlex Pro LRT Tubing White 1/2ID 3/4OD 10ft
T Junction (for the drain): Bitspower T-Block Matte Black
Compression fittings (11): XSPC G1/4 Black Chrome 1/2 Compression Fitting

Let me know if you see anything wrong with it. I was going to go with the XSPC D5 pump however the koolance is $10 cheaper and they are all the same design right?

Oh and I still need to pick the ends for the T-Line Drain.
a c 168 K Overclocking
April 27, 2013 8:34:47 PM

Looks fine to me.
You will need clamps to hold the tubing the pumps barb fittings. I use a smaller version of these ones, be prepared to use something like a pair of pliers to hold them open when you put them on.
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_i...

Yea, both are re-branded Laing D5 designs. There might be a slight difference due to different manufacturing methods or materials, but they both should be about the same. The PMP-450 is also one of the quieter pumps on the market as well.
This should serve as some good reading for you.
http://martinsliquidlab.org/2011/04/03/koolance-pmp-450...

A Stop fitting is what you need.
http://www.pccasegear.com/index.php?main_page=product_i...
Again, will also need to use a clamp to hold that on unless you want to use a Compression, then you'l need to get nifty with adapters but can be done.


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