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Help! Motherboard problems!

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May 5, 2013 2:05:06 PM

hello! So i have an Asus M5A99x Evo R 2.0, motherboard and i have some questions. Also i am using the NZXT Source 210 Case.

So first question is when i got the motherboard in the case i put in the 2 screws in the corner like it say's to do. But now the middle of the motherboard is like pushed up and when i try to put a screw in i have to push really hard so i dont, and im scared to push down to get that screw in. And when i do push there is crackling sounds. And i just dont know what to do. Also i have 5 of the 9 screws in, and there all the outer ones. So is that stable? And i have it upright and its holding up im just not sure if its good for the MoBo.

Question two, the motherboard came without an I/O Shield that fits (Completely wrong shield) is it ok if i go on without one for now?

On the top of the MoBo where it says EPU and has an 8-Pin power connector slot and i plug it in then turn on my power supply to see if it works, nothing happens, but when i unplug it everything turns on.

PLEASE HELP!!!

More about : motherboard problems

May 5, 2013 2:16:50 PM

I don't believe you need the EPU power connector as it is for energy saving.
The I/O shield is to hold the port and motherboard in place.
Once again I believe the extra spots are for standoffs , only if the motherboard is too close to the case.
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May 5, 2013 2:20:28 PM

First question to you: Was this m/b purchased new, and if so was the box sealed and what "parts" came with it?

The board should fit just fine in the 210 and NOT require any force to put the screws in. I know they say to put the corners in first, but did you do a test "eyeball" alignment before you put in any screws? Did you install the standoffs?

When you are installing the board, be sure you lay the case on the side to work on it.

As far as the i/o is concerned, you can operate without it, but you have to be careful that when using the back panel connections that you do not press the board down and ground it.

Which connector are you using on the EPU. Your power supply should have one lead that has two four pin connectors together for the m/b. Do not use one of the PCIe 6+2 connectors.

Mark
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May 5, 2013 2:28:45 PM

elfmaslana said:
I don't believe you need the EPU power connector as it is for energy saving.
The I/O shield is to hold the port and motherboard in place.
Once again I believe the extra spots are for standoffs , only if the motherboard is too close to the case.


markwp said:
First question to you: Was this m/b purchased new, and if so was the box sealed and what "parts" came with it?

The board should fit just fine in the 210 and NOT require any force to put the screws in. I know they say to put the corners in first, but did you do a test "eyeball" alignment before you put in any screws? Did you install the standoffs?

When you are installing the board, be sure you lay the case on the side to work on it.

As far as the i/o is concerned, you can operate without it, but you have to be careful that when using the back panel connections that you do not press the board down and ground it.

Which connector are you using on the EPU. Your power supply should have one lead that has two four pin connectors together for the m/b. Do not use one of the PCIe 6+2 connectors.

Mark


Thank you for the response, and yes it was, i got it off of NewEgg for 104.99 And it was new, but the box it came in was white and in it was a CrossFire Sli Bridge cable, 2 Sata 6 Gb Cables (Black), 1 White sata cable, screws, I/O shield (Wrong one), 4 Manuals, the wifi adapter and everything. Also The EPU Im not sure if its PCIe 6+2 But this is what it is. http://www.playtool.com/pages/psuconnectors/pcie8.jpg
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May 5, 2013 2:39:30 PM

The white box indicates that your m/b was a refurbished unit, i.e., you bought one that someone else returned for whatever reason. You seem to have gotten all the parts (was there a driver disc?).

The EPU is power directly to the cpu and is most definately needed. It will not run without it.

What power supply do you have?

Mark
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May 5, 2013 2:45:08 PM

markwp said:
The white box indicates that your m/b was a refurbished unit, i.e., you bought one that someone else returned for whatever reason. You seem to have gotten all the parts (was there a driver disc?).

The EPU is power directly to the cpu and is most definately needed. It will not run without it.

What power supply do you have?

Mark


Oh sorry yes ther was a driver disk, and here is my power supply. Also when i bought it, it says New for Asus...?

Im also going to take some pictures and post them.

PSU http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

Motherboard http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
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May 5, 2013 3:15:17 PM

OK - couple of things

Asus boxes are not white. The link you provided says "open box", which is NOT new - it is a return which could be why your i/o is incorrect.

If you look in the bundle of cables coming out of the psu, there should be one lead that has either (2) four pin connectors and nothing else, or (1) eight pin connector like the one you linked, and nothing else.

Your power supply ma y say 575w, but in reality it is probably more like 300. If you look at photos for that supply on Newegg's site, you will see one of the label on the psu. Notice that (a) the label says "average output 450w", but more importantly, notice that the +12v portion (called the 12v rail) is rated at 25a (25 amps). 25 amps on a 110v line will provide ~275w max. The ratings for the +3 and +5 rails, while important for the pc, are not important when it comes to knowing if your psu will be good.

For instance - this psu says it is 530w, but note that the 12v rail on this one is 41a as opposed to your 25. A good, solid power supply is an absolute must for your computer. There is a reason cheap power supplies are cheap - they use substandard components and construction.

Regarding the "crackling" sound - does this occur when you are trying to get the board seated, or does it occur when you turn the power on?

Mark
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May 5, 2013 3:21:45 PM

markwp said:
OK - couple of things

Asus boxes are not white. The link you provided says "open box", which is NOT new - it is a return which could be why your i/o is incorrect.

If you look in the bundle of cables coming out of the psu, there should be one lead that has either (2) four pin connectors and nothing else, or (1) eight pin connector like the one you linked, and nothing else.

Your power supply ma y say 575w, but in reality it is probably more like 300. If you look at photos for that supply on Newegg's site, you will see one of the label on the psu. Notice that (a) the label says "average output 450w", but more importantly, notice that the +12v portion (called the 12v rail) is rated at 25a (25 amps). 25 amps on a 110v line will provide ~275w max. The ratings for the +3 and +5 rails, while important for the pc, are not important when it comes to knowing if your psu will be good.

For instance - this psu says it is 530w, but note that the 12v rail on this one is 41a as opposed to your 25. A good, solid power supply is an absolute must for your computer. There is a reason cheap power supplies are cheap - they use substandard components and construction.

Regarding the "crackling" sound - does this occur when you are trying to get the board seated, or does it occur when you turn the power on?

Mark


Again thanks, And it is when i try to screw in the remaining 4 screws i have to push and when i push the tiniest bit, i hear crackling, and i just looked on the Psu it says maximum wattage, 475 W So thank you for that. And i just put in the 2x4 Pin Power connector in and now the red light indacating the ram or Cpu arent working turned off! So yay!
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May 5, 2013 3:24:01 PM

Charlie:

Read my earlier response carefully - that psu is NOT capable of more than about 300w, and it is a substandard unit.

Mark
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May 5, 2013 3:28:21 PM

markwp said:
Charlie:

Read my earlier response carefully - that psu is NOT capable of more than about 300w, and it is a substandard unit.

Mark


Quite odd, i read it and thought oh wow, went to go look at it and it said 475 w maximum, but ok. I will look into getting a new PSU very very soon.

But overall i will get a new psu, thank you for this, but back to the main question, should i attempt getting those 4 screws in. And force it down, or leave it without the ones there.
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May 5, 2013 3:45:29 PM

What I said was YOUR 12v rail was only good for about 300w.

The power available from the 12v rail(s) - some psu's have multiple 12v rails, but that's another story, is calculated by P(ower) = I (amps/current) x V(olts). The power a psu can produce is a function of several different components. The better (and sometimes larger) components are capable of more output for a given input, hence some supplies may be 300w and some supplies can be 1500w or more.

Back to your main question. Did you do an eyeball test fit to see if the holes aligned properly and did you install the standoffs to the motherboard tray?

Mark
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May 5, 2013 3:48:02 PM

markwp said:
What I said was YOUR 12v rail was only good for about 300w.

The power available from the 12v rail(s) - some psu's have multiple 12v rails, but that's another story, is calculated by P(ower) = I (amps/current) x V(olts). The power a psu can produce is a function of several different components. The better (and sometimes larger) components are capable of more output for a given input, hence some supplies may be 300w and some supplies can be 1500w or more.

Back to your main question. Did you do an eyeball test fit to see if the holes aligned properly and did you install the standoffs to the motherboard tray?

Mark


Yes thank you, i did and all the wholes are aligned perfectly, just about 1/2 of a centimeter raised.
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May 5, 2013 3:59:59 PM

OK - So, standoffs are in place and the holes on the m/b line up. A positive sign.

The way I install a m/b is to insert the centermost screw first and just turn it enough so it won't fall out. Then I do the same with the corners, and finally the other four.

To secure it, I tighten the center first, just until it barely snugs in, then the corners, then the final four.

Finally I tighten all screws (in the same order) so that they snug, but not overly tight.

If you try it this way and still hear crackling, I would be concerned that the plies of the m/b are separating which might be why the board was returned initially and became an "open box".

Just out of curiosity, what are you planning to use this computer for? Gaming, web, video, ? What cpu are you using? What graphics card (gpu) are you using?

I ask, because those answers will help determine the wattage you need in a psu.

Edit: Read this about Logisys psu
Mark
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May 5, 2013 6:41:14 PM

markwp said:
OK - So, standoffs are in place and the holes on the m/b line up. A positive sign.

The way I install a m/b is to insert the centermost screw first and just turn it enough so it won't fall out. Then I do the same with the corners, and finally the other four.

To secure it, I tighten the center first, just until it barely snugs in, then the corners, then the final four.

Finally I tighten all screws (in the same order) so that they snug, but not overly tight.

If you try it this way and still hear crackling, I would be concerned that the plies of the m/b are separating which might be why the board was returned initially and became an "open box".

Just out of curiosity, what are you planning to use this computer for? Gaming, web, video, ? What cpu are you using? What graphics card (gpu) are you using?

I ask, because those answers will help determine the wattage you need in a psu.

Edit: Read this about Logisys psu
Mark


Im a gamer.. I have a Radeon 7970 Ghz Edition (2x6 Pin) And a AMD fx 8350 Cpu, 8 gb ram.

Also so i should unscrew everything then start with the middle screw.. or push down the middle screw and not care about the crackling noises.

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Best solution

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May 5, 2013 6:54:47 PM

Unscrew everything and start from scratch. Go slowly - you will feel if there is resistance to m/b.

As you sit now, a solid 500w psu will be fine. The 7970 will pull ~240w and the rest of the system ~150. 500w will give you a little headroom. However, if you will be overclocking and/or adding a second card in crossfire, you'll need to step up to ~750w. I personally like to have 20% headroom - that may be overkill, but I would rather spend an extra $50 to help insure that my $200 m/b and $300 cpu and $800 gpu's didn't go up in smoke.

Look at seasonic, corsair and antec. Make sure they are 80+ certified. Best is certifiation is platinum, then gold, silver and bronze.
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May 5, 2013 9:58:59 PM

markwp said:
Unscrew everything and start from scratch. Go slowly - you will feel if there is resistance to m/b.

As you sit now, a solid 500w psu will be fine. The 7970 will pull ~240w and the rest of the system ~150. 500w will give you a little headroom. However, if you will be overclocking and/or adding a second card in crossfire, you'll need to step up to ~750w. I personally like to have 20% headroom - that may be overkill, but I would rather spend an extra $50 to help insure that my $200 m/b and $300 cpu and $800 gpu's didn't go up in smoke.

Look at seasonic, corsair and antec. Make sure they are 80+ certified. Best is certifiation is platinum, then gold, silver and bronze.


THANK YOU FOR EVERYTHING, IS THERE SOME WAY WE CAN STAY IN CONTACT!?!!
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May 6, 2013 4:57:21 AM

Sure - drop me a pm if you have any questions.
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