1) If you do a clean Install. YOU will be able to boot to either the HDD or the SSD Until you decide to delete "old "OS".
First with HDDs disconnected, bios set to AHCI, instasl windows when everything is working then Re-Connect HDDs. When powerin up go to BIOS and set boot priority to the SSD.
With Most systems you simply need to hit the "Hot Key" that brings up a boot menu. NOTE this does NOT change BIOS boot priority. On My gigabyte MB it is F12 and on my Asrock MB it is F11.
For any reason you need to boot to the Old HDD OS. Then hit the Hot key during post and select the HDD. Say a week, or a month, you decide you NO LONGER need the HDD OS then you can ditch it.
On Size a little expaination:
Installment plan: Breaking my post up
Part 1:
SSD size, Yes plan on a 128 gig SSD, 64 gigs is just too small anymore. Explain.
.. With a 64 gig SSD your maximum usable space is about 48 Gigs. All my systems with a typical install Plus programs is approx. 35 gigs – NO Games installed and space saving tweaks applied.
.. For a starter when you format the 64 gig SSD you end-up with 60 gigs. Then you should leave a Min of 20 % FREE (Unused), This is to allow Wear leveling, Garbage Collector (GC), and TRIM to work their magic to keep the SSD running at Manuf specs. NOTE: Recommended free space use to be 10% but recent articles show that it should be 20->25% unused.
Tweaks that I use to save space:
1). Disable Hibernation. This saves SSD space equal to 75->100% of Ram. If you have 8 gigs ram saves approx. 6->8 gigs
2). Manage your Page file (virtual Memory/swap file). For an 8 gig Ram system, set BOTH min and Max to 1024 mbs. Saves about 11 gigs of space on SSD. NOTE: Should you ever get a “out-of-memory error” – NO BIGGY, just go in and up Min and max (BOTH) to 2048 mbs
3). Manage the space that System Restore folder takes. Windows will set up to 10% of SSD for this. Each restore point takes 300 mbs – Just 20 Restore points = 6 Gigs. Set max space to 1.5 gigs which will retain last 5 restore points.
Personally I just disable restore point and use windows GREAT back-up app which will create a system Image of your SSD and put it on the HDD. You can Use the repair/restore using image to return your system to the EXACT state it was in when you made the Image. Takes about 10->15 mins and NO: Re-install windows, wait for updates; No reload drivers; no re-install programs. ONLY need to re-install changes made AFTER image was created.
ON SSD recommendations. They are sometimes listed based on performance - FORGET that. Most all "good" Sata III SSDs perform almost identically, that is you will NOT see a nickels (5 cents) worth of difference in day-2-day performance. Then there is the listing based on Cost - Would be great if they factored in Reliability and LEAST user problems.
Bottom Line is look for Reliability and least user problems.
Based on this My recommendations are:
Crucial M4, Plextor M5, Samsung 830 (Hard to find), and Samsung's new 840 Pro.
.. Which one, the ONE that cost the LEAST - Normally the 840 Pro is the Best but cost more and In real life does not perform much better than the others I've listed.
The Samsung 840 (NON-Pro) would be the cheapest, but if only $10 (your equivalant) diff between the M4 or Plextor M5 then select the curcial M4 or Plextor M5.
PS I have all the ones I've recommended except the Plextor and the Samsung 840 Non-pro.
There is a "FREEBE" program (EasyUS) that does what the Ez-Gig app does. I've used it.
http://apcmag.com/how-to-transfer-your-os-to-your-new-ssd-drive.htm
Another method is first set-up your HDD (resize partition, correct IDE/AHCI if IDE was used to Install OS onto HDD.
If you want more on this then I'll do Part 2 - LOLs