Q6600 temperatures on stock @ ~35 C ambient

Hi guys,

I had a Q6600 G0 on DG33FB intel mobo for 5 years now. Just yesterday, I bought an old MSI P45 Platinum.

The board is great, but my temperatures are quite high. I am in Bangalore, India, which is nowadays quite hot, at around 30-35 degrees, but even then my prime95 (small FFTs) full load goes near 80 degrees. It wasn't always like this, it was fine for quite a few tests, but few hours in, its started running very hot.

I used CoolerMaster IC Value V1 Thermal Paste. I have tried putting a line of paste horizontally as described in various places, but this paste is difficult and awkward to get into a smooth line. I have tried that, the dot in the middle method, the spread thinly method, but never have I got low enough temperatures that I knew I was doing it right...

So in ~30 degrees weather, no case cooling, both side covers open, one rear fan, right under the PSU (Corsair GS600), what approximately are the temperatures I should aim for? I want to overclock also, which is why I got this motherboard, but that can't happen till I get this hot beast reined in :-/

I have fitted and refitted the heatsink a number of times now, and each time my temperatures have changed significantly.... but I don't know how. This issue has been the same even on the Intel mobo.

Additional Info :
My motherboard has a _slight_ bend in the processor region, which I think causes the heatsink not to touch the processor fully... Could this be the reason? If so, I would have no other options than to get a proper heatsink with a backplate that helps it straighten out and lay flat the proc against the heatsink...

Or is this inadequate/excess/improper application of thermal paste?
9 answers Last reply
More about q6600 temperatures stock ambient
  1. If your paste is hard to use, Maybe get something else.

    It honestly looks better than what I got with my 212 heatsinks :)

    Important questions.

    What did you use to check temps on both boards. most boards have a sensor for cpu temp and they can vary quite a bit. If you are using something like Core Temp, it should be more accurate from board to board as it reads a sensor in the cpu it self.

    Can you please check your voltage for the cpu, maybe the board is giving it a bit more.

    I would NOT overclock with the stock cooler simply because you are in such a hot environment. It is made to cool the unit at stock speeds but not too much more(3Ghz may be ok).

    If you do wish to overclock, If you can get your self a Coolermaster 212+ or EVO, it will help temps and has a solid back plate.

    I would also note that some boards to warp from the pressure of the heatsinks(even the stock one.) It should not cause issues with the cooler. I would stick with the small dab(or the line) in the middle and let the heatsink spread it method for your cooler as it works well and is reliable. Some users have problems with he thin spread method(your paste comes with a spreader right? that should have made it fairly easy).

    I would be curious how much change you had from application to application. Maybe use what worked best for you out of your tests.
  2. Thanks for the follow-up..

    I took a few screenshots to illustrate the situation (picture worth a thousand words etc :) ). Load is Prime95 small FFTs for around ten minutes, except when it overheated.

    Idle temperatures : Stock

    Idle temperatures : 2700Mhz (300 x 9)

    Load temperatures : Stock

    Load temperatures : 2700 Mhz

    Ambient around 30 C..


    Please tell me if any other info would be useful... Thanks..

    PS: excuse for the huge images, its too much of a bother thumbnailing them
  3. Maybe try different thermal paste and heat sink.
    Stock Heatsinks are no very good especially in hot places like where you are.

    Like said above the 212 is a pretty good cooler.
    I have not personally used it but have heard lots of good about it.
  4. Your voltage seems to be a bit high, Are you making your changes in the bios or are you using the software to overclock?
  5. Bro.. close the case. Removing the sides doesn't doesn't make the pc a cooler place. Make sure that the heatsink is installed properly
  6. nukemaster said:
    Your voltage seems to be a bit high, Are you making your changes in the bios or are you using the software to overclock?

    I used the BIOS to overclock it... I think my SMPS is overcompensating or some such thing... Should I reduce the voltage?
  7. Your power supply should not effect the cpu voltage as the board is in control of it.

    Please see if you bios has an offset option. If it does, use a -(negative) offset to try to push the load voltage down closer to 1.3 or lower. Maybe try -0.05 for a start that would give you a load voltage of 1.27. All cpu's are different and my old q6600 did 3.0 under 1.2 volts. You have to slowly drop and test until you find the best place for your cpu.

    Also, if you are running LLC(Line Calibration) please turn it off for now(it pushes the voltage UP under load, you do not need that without very high clock speeds).

    You WILL get blue screens when testing lower voltages, it will not hurt anything. you will stabilize it.


    Also, if you put the side panels on, you may want to try flipping the back fan to push air out of the case and not pull it in(at least it looks that way in the image). If you are the modding type, you can remove that fan grille from the back fan as it looks VERY restrictive(but I may just be seeing the window on the other side :) ).

    This is an image for reference only. My old Q6600 load voltage/temps(remember my room temps are not 35 nearly as often as yours.)
  8. Thanks.... Undervolting did the trick.

    Right now am running at 333 MHz FSB, for 3.0GHz max, at what is called as 1.2225 V in the BIOS ( I mean, I dunno what the actual voltage is) for Vcore. It did stock on 1.1625 V. But Prime95 detected hardware failure when I overclocked it. It runs to a max of 65 degree celcius. on STOCK COOLER!! Will post temp screenshots today.

    But "auto" itself seems to be only 1.25 V in BIOS. My guess is that when Vcore is set to "auto", it starts trying to compensate for increased frequency automatically, hence probably its not 1.25V any more. I have not yet stress tested properly (8 hours) with Prime95, but will do soon.

    Oh and its better for the back fan to throw out air rather than pull in? You're right, right now it is pulling in.

    Remove the fan grille? :??:
  9. In general, you want air pushing out the back of the system to help bring fresh air into the front of the case.

    Now you can always test both ways to see what works best for you.

    Removal of the fan grille helps when it holds back the fans ability to move air. It requires a cutting tool of some sort(dremel/drill+hacksaw blade/ect)

    I found a link of just what users have done in the past(this includes me and i have seen WAY more restrictive setups)

    This is ALL optional, your temps seem to be much better now.
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