$1100 Gaming Desktop Build

GeorgeQiao

Honorable
Jun 3, 2013
3
0
10,510
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/14YTz
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/14YTz/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/14YTz/benchmarks/

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($133.42 @ Amazon)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($58.50 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($92.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 680 2GB Video Card ($429.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT Phantom 410 (White) ATX Mid Tower Case ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: Corsair Enthusiast 650W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1111.85

I actually got the graphics card and the mobo together for around $350 from a friend so that's pretty much the reason why I choose those parts. Anything critiques? I'm just going to be using this for gaming mainly! Thanks!
 


Agree the GTX 770 or a GTX 670 would be a better value. The GTX 680 is still overpriced for what you get. If you are going for a GTX 6xx card really look at the GTX 670 for the lower price and close to the performance of the GTX 680 it can't be beat.
 

g-unit1111

Titan
Moderator


Not really obtainable on a $1100 build. If the budget were higher I'd include it without question. But you should always get the latest hardware you could get:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($249.99 @ Newegg)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($36.99 @ Newegg)
Motherboard: Asus Z87-C ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($152.55 @ Newegg)
Memory: Mushkin Blackline 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($64.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7950 3GB Video Card ($287.98 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 400R ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12II 620W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($75.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Lite-On iHAS124-04 DVD/CD Writer ($17.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($99.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1116.44
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-06-11 02:09 EDT-0400)

I took off the SSD and went with a slightly less expensive GPU but it's still good, and I went with a far more current CPU. You can always add the SSD in later.
 
That PSU is not good. Take 450-550w gold label psu like seasonic or rosewill.
Samsung 120GB is TLC do not take that. Take cheaper MLC SSD. Or samsung PRO.

GTX 770 is good choice.

Like this:
PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/15bN6
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/15bN6/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/15bN6/benchmarks/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-D3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($148.89 @ Amazon)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($62.13 @ TigerDirect)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($129.98 @ Outlet PC)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($67.23 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($405.91 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Power Supply: Rosewill Capstone 450W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($59.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: LG GH24NS95 DVD/CD Writer ($17.98 @ Outlet PC)
Total: $1172.08
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-06-11 02:12 EDT-0400)

I think it is better to buy SSD first and add HDD later. Optical drive you really do not need.
Google tells how to make windows boot able from usb drive. Save in this and leave drive in store.
 

g-unit1111

Titan
Moderator


I've added plenty of SSDs to existing builds with no problem. When you add the SSD and install the OS, Windows will rename the existing installation "Windows.old" and you can delete it when the OS finishes installing on your SSD.