HELP! Power Supply is Being funky!

So ive decided to rebuild my pc with a new motherboard and cpu heatsink. I had everything in the case and turned it on and everything was working fine but there was just no display, so i turned off the computer to try and install maybe the drivers but to no avail. But now the pc wont even boot up! i have a breadboard all set up, i removed everything but the cpu, fan, and heatsink. When the 24 pin connector is plugged in by itself, the power supply turns on normally. Add RAM, turns on normally. But when i plug in the 4 Pin cpu power, the heatsink fan, or a graphics card to the motherboard, the power supply turns on and off in less than a second. i have no idea why this is happening.

Specs:
-XFX Radeon 5870
-AMD Phenom II x6 1090T
-Corsair Dominator (2x2GB) 1866 MHz 9-9-9-24 1.65V
-Zalman CNPS5X Performa heatsink
-GIGABYTE GA-970A-DS3P AM3+ AMD 970 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard
27 answers Last reply
More about power supply funky
  1. You might be using to much power than the PSU gives out.
  2. What power supply is it? Maybe it has failed.

    A good power supply will shut off if it can not power a system or has any other fault(a short will cause the exact same thing.).
  3. oh i forgot to mention the psu thats smart lol

    Its a Kingwin Mach 1 1000W 80 plus bronze
  4. While that is an VERY overpowered unit for most systems, failures can happen.

    So you can not get either the cpu Or the video card to work. It does look like a defect for sure.

    Have a very good look on the front and back of the board to ensure you have no damage. If all checks out, it may be a good idea to check out the power supply on a friends system.

    One last thing to confirm is that you made sure the power/reset/hdd_led/power_led are all connected properly(without cpu power, the board will not even try to actually post.).
  5. nukemaster said:
    While that is an VERY overpowered unit for most systems, failures can happen.

    So you can not get either the cpu Or the video card to work. It does look like a defect for sure.

    Have a very good look on the front and back of the board to ensure you have no damage. If all checks out, it may be a good idea to check out the power supply on a friends system.

    One last thing to confirm is that you made sure the power/reset/hdd_led/power_led are all connected properly(without cpu power, the board will not even try to actually post.).


    i dont actually have it in a case, but when i try to turn the set up on with the 4 pin and heatsink fan plugged in, the leds in the power supply turn on then instantly go dim. not completely off but about half power. Then when i turn the psu switch off, the entire system gets power for only a second.
  6. Sounds like the PS is seeing ground, a short. There is absolutely nothing wrong with having too big of a PS. Quality is all that matters. Your system simply draws as much power as it needs. Having too little is always the problem. However, any PS can fail. The list I have of power supplies suggests you PS should be fine, although the negative 12V rail can be out of spec. There are very inexpensive PS testers on Newegg, under $20.
    Otherwise here are a few links that might help:
    http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-post-boot-video-problems

    http://www.eggxpert.com/forums/thread/323050.aspx
  7. avjguy2362 said:
    Sounds like the PS is seeing ground, a short. There is absolutely nothing wrong with having too big of a PS. Quality is all that matters. Your system simply draws as much power as it needs. Having too little is always the problem. However, any PS can fail. The list I have of power supplies suggests you PS should be fine, although the negative 12V rail can be out of spec. There are very inexpensive PS testers on Newegg, under $20.
    Otherwise here are a few links that might help:
    http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/261145-31-perform-steps-posting-post-boot-video-problems

    http://www.eggxpert.com/forums/thread/323050.aspx


    how would i fix the rail?
  8. If a rail goes go out of spec, The power supply has failed. You can not fix it without a full background in electronics.
  9. i think im just gonna save up for an entire new build with more reliable parts. No longer need help with this
  10. Ok, but it may be just a dead PSU. This kind of thing happens.
  11. If you have a volt/ohm meter, your can check the values of your PS. If you go to the section( first article in Tom;s): "If you suspect the PSU is causing your problems", it tells you which wires to test with and without a load. The non-load section is easier, and if it fails that part, no need to hook it up for the loaded readings, but it is there, if you want to try.... could save you some further headaches
  12. nukemaster said:
    Ok, but it may be just a dead PSU. This kind of thing happens.


    this whole build has never been on the same page as me, quite frankly i just wanna start fresh
  13. Fair enough.

    Just for reference.

    RED = 5 volts
    Yellow = 12 volts
    Orange = 3.3 volts.

    Shorting Green to Black(with the power OFF) in the main ATX 20/24 pin connector will turn on a power supply without a board(but do not connect it to anything(Board/Video cards) other than fans/hard drives ect.).
  14. It sounds like a bad PSU but check to make sure all your connections are correct and secure. As recommended you can test that PSU out or if you got a known working PSU you can give that a try. No need to buy new components if your existing ones work and does the job you want it to do.

    Just remember even on a new build patience is key so you might just take some time off your project to clear your head and come back to it. Doesn't always work perfectly on the first try! :)
  15. The 4 pin power connector to the motherboard, what colour are the wire cables?
    Just asking because many people are confusing the video card power connector with the 12 volt motherboard connector.
  16. TenPc said:
    The 4 pin power connector to the motherboard, what colour are the wire cables?
    Just asking because many people are confusing the video card power connector with the 12 volt motherboard connector.


    its hardlines to the psu, the pci-e connectors are modular
  17. The Kingwin Mach 1 1000W wasn't a that good of a power supply to begin with. The ripple suppression on its +12V rails is barely within spec even when new. The ripple suppression will degrade with age so your PSU must have already reached the point where the ripple suppression on its +12V rails have gone out of spec. Excessive ripple will cause erratic system behavior like you're experiencing.
  18. "To support a DDR3 1866 MHz (and above) memory, you must install an AM3+ CPU first."
    Your CPU is AM3 not AM3+
    Only the series FX and Opteron are AM3+
    http://www.gigabyte.com.au/support-downloads/cpu-support-popup.aspx?pid=4591

    1.5V DDR3 DIMM sockets
    http://www.gigabyte.com.au/products/product-page.aspx?pid=4591#sp
  19. The OP has had the system running in the past. That is however a very good catch.

    I want to blame the power supply as it is the most likely thing to fail. I would be slight less worried about the ripple only due to the rather low load the OPs system would put on it. Power supply ripple tends to only become an issue at much higher loads. I would go as far as to guess it has simply failed(in a good way if it just folded over[shut off]), but without access to other systems to test with, It is more hard to diagnose the issue.
  20. GIGABYTE states:
    Supports AMD AM3+ FX/AM3 Phenom™ II & Athlon™ II series processors

    The CPU Support List shows that the Phenom II X6 1090T is supported from BIOS Version F1 and later.
  21. I think TenPc is simple referring to the memory speed support. AMD did not have official support for that speed unit later cpus.
  22. The QVL List on the site does not list Phenom under the AM3+ banner, only under the AM3 banner listing.

    Although it's not supported, it will still work but will not give you the adequate processing power as you would expect.
    The ram should be 1.5v not 1.65v, the system, when fully connected propeerly with the 12v cable, is having prooblems with compaitbility.

    Some motherboards do work without the 4 pin 12 v connector but only for very basic uses, once connected, it is trying to recognise the cpu, and the ram for its compatibility for the required v/a. Not using the 12v connector will eventually short out the motherboard and the ram and the cpu.
  23. I was wondering if the OP knew this and was still expecting to get the full 1866 MHz out of those DIMMs that they paid for.
  24. ko888 said:
    I was wondering if the OP knew this and was still expecting to get the full 1866 MHz out of those DIMMs that they paid for.


    i was unaware of that, well now i feel like a wasted money. well at least i learned something, DO MORE RESEARCH
  25. Many times you can use faster memory in overclocking mode.

    It does vary from cpu to cpu.

    You can also use slower speeds with tighter timings with these faster sticks in many cases.
  26. "Remember, you can't start a Rolls Royce car with a Volkswagen car key." Original Quote by TenPC :lol:
  27. TenPc said:
    "Remember, you can't start a Rolls Royce car with a Volkswagen car key." Original Quote by TenPC :lol:
    No wonder the damn thing won't start.
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