H100i high idle temps i5 750 2.67ghz

trent1542

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Jun 24, 2013
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I installed an H100i about two weeks ago and my idle temps have not improved over the stock Intel cooler and I think it might be because of the thermal paste or maybe I didn't set it correctly on the CPU.
It idles around 40-45 degrees celsius and core 0 always is at least 5 degrees hotter than the other cores, the highest I've seen them differ is 11 degrees (core 0 @ 47, others @~34-36).
I have it running in pull, into my case. Ambient temps are about 27 celsius.

i5 750 @ 2.67 Ghz (stock speeds) on an EVGA P55 SLi mobo
G.Skill Ripjaws 8gb 1600Mhz (stuck at 1333 though)
EVGA GTX 480 (idles around 50 celsius)
Cooler Master HAF 922 case

I used the thermal paste that came on the H100i block.
The load temps are far better than the stock intel. 100% load is around 50-55 degrees average on the H100i and intel was usually 70+.
 

Som3one

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Jun 13, 2013
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I wouldn´t worry too much about the idle temps.

But to answer your question: You could try to use the fans in a push configuration.
Also, have you set the fans to a specific RPM or do they slow down in idle?
 

trent1542

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Jun 24, 2013
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I have two 200mm intake fans, the h100i rad as an intake, and a 140mm intake and a 120mm for exhaust. There are no more places for fans in this case.



I have both fans fixed at 1500 rpm, I could go higher but they get quite loud past 1500.
 

_BigHead_

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Jun 4, 2013
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Can you provide what case you're using? Considering your load temps are fine (although still a little hotter than i would like) theres a little bit more information that is needed. Your ambient temperature is a good number to have. You said you have the h100i as an intake, along with 2 other 200mm fans. I'm kind of wondering if you have this fan setup backwards. Again, not knowing your case, my opinion could easily be wrong...
Traditionally you want your airflow to go from intake near the floor from the front and side panel exhausting to the rear and top. MB manufacturers anticipate this style of airflow and set up their heatsinks to take advantage of that. This airflow design also is condusive to convection currents going with heat rising.
Let me know what case your using, and where all of what fans are located and maybe i can help sort out an optimal configuration with you :)
Good luck!
 


you're part of the most ingenious species on planet earth. i'm pretty certain that although there is no fan mount space left in your case, you can certainly add fans. I have done it numerous times... particularly if my case airflow wasn't ideal. dental floss makes for great suspension brackets, duct tape works in a pinch, and there is always those hard core DIYers who can make their own fan mounts as well.

Sidenote, running a h100i as an intake is an interesting solution, which i suspect is part of the problem. heating the air coming into your case, can be an issue. i hope you're running that rad in a push/pull config... you'll need it to evacuate the hot air you're building up on the backside of the rad. maybe a fan on the bottom of the case to push the hot air up and away from your intake, toward your exhaust at the top of the case.

playing with case airflow is a never-ending adventure, and requires a lot of trial and error until you get it just right.

And who knows... purhaps you did mount the h100i wrong. or used bad thermal paste. I know i saw almost no change in my idle temps when i switched to the h100 because, as i said before, idle temps are ambient temp sensitive. The true test of your h100i will be when you put the system under load and you find an improvement in load temps (mine were 10C lower).
 

trent1542

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Jun 24, 2013
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I'm using the HAF 922 by Cooler Master, the only exhaust fan is the 120mm at the rear next to the IO panel. The H100i replaced a 200mm fan on the top above the motherboard which was also exhaust but now the h100i is using the spot as intake.
I also have a 140mm intake on the bottom next to the PS and a 200mm front intake and 200mm side intake directly onto the graphics card and mobo.

The rad is running in pull only... I don't want to have to disassemble it every month to clean out all the dust when running in push. The load temps are considerably better as I said in the OP. I'll take it off and re-mount it with some arctic silver 5 later this week and see if that improves it. RealTemp still shows a 4-6 degree difference between core 0 and the others when at idle.

 

just so you know, pull is less effective and efficient then push...