Aida64 says 12V is actually 11.8V while HWMonitor says its 10.6V. Which one is right?

dezix

Honorable
Jul 3, 2013
3
0
10,510
Title says all.

Not running anything apart from skype and firefox and Aida64 says the 12V is actually ~11.8V while HWMonitor says its 10.650V.

Do I have to buy a new power supply?
 
Solution
It could be difficult to narrow it down here. It could be your supply or it could be something on your +12V rail pulling it down(HDD/GPU). Both of these draw from the +12V rail. I have seen faulty HDD's that can do this. You can check the actual loaded voltage with $10.00 radioshack multimeter... DC voltage test- (red meter lead on yellow molex pin(+12V) and black lead on black molex pin(Ground) while PC is on to get an actual idea of what your getting from your supply. I have a feeling both your supply and Win7 HDD are not in great shape.


dezix

Honorable
Jul 3, 2013
3
0
10,510
Well, my HDD just died and I dont know from what. It can be either the HDD itself, the power supply or my graphics card.

I've been experiencing tons of freezes and blue screens, most of them while I played Rift. It wasnt an original blue screen tho.

First the music stops in the background (the games music), you cant open any dialog such as shops. But you can run around and stuff and hear the moving etc. Like when you took a disc out of a Playstation, the game went on with the already loaded data. I was on skype with my friend everytime I got this freeze. After 1 min of allowing me to move around the screen froze completely, but I still could move the mouse around and hear my friend, after another minute I got a glitch screen. And if I waited it switched into a blue screen.

BUT, everytime I got a bluescreen I waited for the minidump, but it NEVER completed it. Not even started. I reinstalled win7 like a month ago thinking it would fix these bluescreens, but nope. And they still didnt dump on the new win7 either.

And after one of these freezes the HDD died, couldnt boot the PC. I put my old HDD in, installed a 32 bit XP (the one I am using now) and the old one will be sent for repair/change after I recovered some of my data from it.

The thing is, I get freezes in this HDD also, but ONLY if I play Rift. I tried with World of Tanks and DotA2 too and they dont freeze. Also when I open the minimap I see this for 3 seconds: http://i.imgur.com/5zGHO7J.jpg

If I switch from fullscreen to borderless window I see this for 1 sec: http://i.imgur.com/cKHKd1R.jpg

It totally looks like a dead graphics card BUT:

-WoT has no problems running
-Neither DotA2 (Even opened a lobby with no spell cooldown and started spamming GPU intensive spells like a madman)
-Ran 3D Mark 06 twice and saw no glitches or pixel errors (06 is the newest working version for win xp 32bit, 11 is for win7)
-Ran Aida64 with all test options checked for an hour and there were no problems

So my current state is:

-My HDD is dead, gotta send in for repairs/change
-Have to make sure what causes the freezes, its either my GPU or my power supply
-Since I am not sure which one, I cant take out my GPU and put in the old one to check with, in case the power supply causes the problems I dont want to potentially harm my old GPU


So I gotta find out what causes the problems before I do anything, I have some financial problems right now so I cant just go and buy a new power supply AND a GPU. Heck, im not even sure if I can buy either one of them since the warranity is expired on both (2 months for the video card.... 2 damn months!)
 
It could be difficult to narrow it down here. It could be your supply or it could be something on your +12V rail pulling it down(HDD/GPU). Both of these draw from the +12V rail. I have seen faulty HDD's that can do this. You can check the actual loaded voltage with $10.00 radioshack multimeter... DC voltage test- (red meter lead on yellow molex pin(+12V) and black lead on black molex pin(Ground) while PC is on to get an actual idea of what your getting from your supply. I have a feeling both your supply and Win7 HDD are not in great shape.


 
Solution
testpsu.jpg


Make sure your multi-meter is set to read DC Voltage. This can also be represented on your meter by a straight line with a dashed line under neath it. Make sure your computer is turned on. Any Molex connector should be good and they should all read the same unless you have more than one +12V rail, which I don't think is the case.
 

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