building gaming computers

Hello there, welcome to the forums!

What currency are we talking about?

Do you have an OS, Keyboard, Mouse and Monitor already?

As for SLI/CF:

There's two GPU (Graphics Processing Units) manufacturers around.

1 - Nvidia

2 - AMD (Previously called ATI)


Nvidia use SLI and AMD use CrossFire X.

Both are ways to put multiple GPUs together, so that they'll function as one. Doing so can provide

a boost in FPS rates in games and also allow for more monitors to be attached. So putting a GTX Titan

in SLI, means pairing it with another Titan. Same for AMDs CrossFire X and their cards. If you've got some

good GPUs and a sufficient motherboard, you can achieve things up to for example 4-way SLI or CrossFire.

Some GPUs scale better/worse with either Nvidias solution or AMD. By scaling it's meant how much added

performance you get out of it. For instance, if you pair two GTX Titans and you only see a difference of 5 FPS

in a game, then that's extremely bad scaling; especially considering the price of a Titan. With either solution,

you have to take into account:

- Added power usage

- Added noise

- Added heat generation

- Being reliant on driver support

- Space concerns


Often times it's better (people say) to simply get a single, but better GPU (up from your current one) than SLI

or CrossFire your current GPU, due to the aforementioned reasons. There's also things like micro-stutter in games,

if you use either solution. It's said that Nvidias SLI is a little ahead of CrossFire on in some regards.

Hope this satisfies you.

Points:
1) GRAPHICS CARD:
This is the most important component for game performance. You should be able to budget a GTX770 which is about $420 and a truly awesome card though that will likely push the $1200 limit (Windows yes, monitor NO). Overclocked models for about that price exist that are about 15% better than a stock GTX680!
Best GTX770's:
a) $460 (4GB) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125462
b) $400 (2GB) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814125463
c) $400 (2GB) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814127741
d) $410 (2GB) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814130921
e) $410 (2GB) http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814121770

They are all great cards and cost little more than the reference solutions with much noisier coolers. I'll discuss the 4GB version under SLI.

2) SLI and Crossfire:
This involves using two or more GPU's (on one card, or two or more cards). They alternate drawing every other frame so in theory they could double the frame rate. In reality it's closer to 60% to 90% depending on the game, if supported.

There's a really LONG video that explains VSYNC, SLI and Frame Rate's etc. It's really awesome but I'll summarize:
a) SLI is far better than Crossfire
b) It's not just about raw frames per second as seen in benchmarks. It's about SMOOTHNESS (equal times for each frame, and no dropped frames). This is too complicated to discuss here but I'll link the VIDEO:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2cH_ozvn0gA
*You can DOWNLOAD with this addon for Firefox:
https://addons.mozilla.org/en-US/firefox/addon/flash-video-downloader/?src=search

c) VSYNC is for synchronizing your graphics card output with your monitor. Most monitors are 60Hz (60x per second) so the video card will create 60FPS. This is done to avoid "screen tearing" (vertical lines) that happen when a new frame is drawn PART WAY DOWN the screen rather than starting at the top. The graphics card must be able to generate at least 60FPS or you drop to 30FPS (with VSYNC ON). The main disadvantage is it can feel slightly sluggish compared to VSYNC OFF, but with a high-end PC with a GTX770 it's rare that this is much of an issue.

d) Adaptive VSYNC:
This is for NVIDIA cards only. You should enable this on a per game basis. What it does is turn VSYNC OFF if you drop below the target (such as 60FPS). For example, suppose the game suddenly dropped to 55FPS; this would cause a stutter effect as things resynch to 30FPS, then another stutter once you attain 60FPS again. You might notice a little screen tearing when you drop below 60FPS but that's better than stutter. I recommend you TWEAK your quality settings so that you RARELY drop below 60FPS with Adaptive VSYNC on. Unless the game has issues (there might be a couple) it's best to use Adaptive VSYNC instead of VSYNC (if you're way above the target refresh either is fine).

e) VSYNC OFF:
Game feels less sluggish but screen tearing can often make the game unplayable. It varies per game as well as per machine and can even change during the game. One game I played was HORRIBLE, massive tearing. Another game I tried I couldn't even notice.

3) Do you need SLI?
Unlikely, and not on your budget. The GTX770 performs very well and can hit 60FPS in all games, though some may have to be tweaked slightly (especially Crysis 3). SLI is about more frame per second, but it adds cost. You'd need another GTX770 for an additional $420. Unless you're using THREE MONITORS ( 3x 1920x1080) a single GTX770 is plenty. It's also useful for 3D which I believe DOUBLES the processing (60FPS for each eye), however you would need a second GTX770, compatible 3D monitor, better Power Supply and the compatible NVIDIA GLASSES!

4) 2GB vs 4GB:
2GB is generally plenty. No games yet exist that truly require more than 2GB for a single monitor up to 2560x1440. If you think there's a CHANCE you'll get another card then the 4GB Gigabyte I linked is a nice option. Just remember that these cards are only available for so long (a year or so?). HOWEVER, there is also the chance in the next couple years that more than 2GB would benefit you. My opinion is that it's unlikely. The GTX780 is another option but it probably blows your budget at $660 for the EVGA ACX with backplate. Awesome card though. It has 3GB of memory and I think the performance averaged about 25% over an overclocked 770. Still, that's a lot of money which may be better spent elsewhere.

5) METRO 2033:
The GTX770 overclocked cards are almost exactly the same as my GTX680 OC. I spent a long time figuring out the best optimization for Metro 2033. It goes something like this:
- run at 1920x1080
- run DX11
- disable DOF (Depth of Field)
- tweak other settings such as Anti-Aliasing etc until you jump above 60FPS most of the time
- enable ADAPTIVE VSYNC in the NVidia Control Panel for it
*To change a game settings, run the game then close it; open NVidia CP-> Manage 3D settings-> then click "ADD" and a list will appear with the game at the top so you don't have to hunt it down.
- run FRAPS during the game while tweaking, then later on as settings will change (if screen tearing or feels sluggish check to see if you hit 60FPS)

GAMING BUILD:
I'd be happy to make a list of parts once you confirm a few things about the budget:
1) $1200 limit is AFTER tax/shipping.
2) Any parts aside from the CASE and internals, and Windows? (monitor, keyboard, mouse, XBOX controller)
3) Any MUST HAVE's? (SSD, CPU Liquid Cooler, BluRay reader/burner etc.)
4) SHIPPING LOCATION?

Here's a very, very brief recommend with no budget:
Graphics: GTX770
CPU: Intel i5-4670K (or i5-3570K)
Motherboard: 1150 for i5-4670K or 1155 for i5-3570K (Asus, Gigabyte, Asrock, MSI... read customer reviews)
System Memory: 8GB of DDR3 (2x4GB kit; 1600MHz or higher. If in doubt, get G. Skill. Check Motherboard Support site for list of compatible memory)
CASE: ATX case. I'll recommend one later.
DVD/BD burner: (read customer reviews; investigate firmware update is 2012 or 2013 from support site)
OS: Window 8 64-bit (not Windows 7 as some suggest). It's better in many ways. The only main issue is the new interface which can be avoided with START8.
*Don't upgrade to Windows 8.1 until the final release has been out at least two months AND your anti-virus software supports it.
Other: START8 from Stardock ($5; must-have IMO. Brings back Start Menu, boot to desktop, disable CHARMS BAR in desktop. Basically makes it feel like Windows 7 but you can click a shortcut to go to Win8 desktop.

HDD/SSD:
In general I recommend this combo:
a) 120GB SSD for Windows apps (i.e. Samsung 840 for $105)
b) 2TB HDD for games/SSD IMAGE backup/Media files etc..

SUMMARY:
I recommend a Haswell motherboard and CPU as the base, and the NVIDIA GTX770 if budget allows since I think it's the best card at that price range.

Confirm the budget details I asked for and I'd be happy to come up with a parts list.

Quick update:
Sorry if I repeat anything. It took so long to write (there were no other comments yet). Again, download and watch that VIDEO when you get a chance. It's awesome. You may need to use Wikipedia or other sources to understand the terminology though my explanations should help get started.

I'm an electronics technician and have built over 100 systems. I also have read everything relevant to designing gaming build's. There's a lot of LITTLE THINGS you discover over the years such as quality, parts balance, air flow, and noise. Also testing, firmware updates, BIOS configuration etc.

I've got some time so once the build is in place, if would like you can PM me and I'll paste in my build/test list so you can PRINT that out for reference.

Had a write up a few minutes ago but it seems to have not posted... anyway.

I ran the numbers on the system and looks like you could potentially drop the power supply. It looks like you'd be maxing 400w/30A. You could probably drop to a 500-600 (maybe seasonic for quality?) and save a few bucks.

Also for the SSD, try a Sandisk. You can get the same size with great performance for less than $90. Tom's just reviewed them and said they're great performers. It would also drop one of your off the wall suppliers off, consolidating your shipping between fewer places.

Finally, since you said you were a bit newer, could i maybe recommend the i5 3550p? It will limit your overclocking, but will save you quite a bit on price and allow you to drop down to an H motherboard, saving you some more. I feel like with the GPU you're bringing to the table you'll be able to meet your goals without overclocking and save some money in the process.

"Potentially" drop the PSU? He should DEFINITELY drop it. 550W PSU from XFX would be lovely.

If he's new, he might as well take an OC'able system, so he can learn some more.

Welcome.

Anything else?

Alright then.

If you found a specific post was "the solution" you can highlight it as such.

It's a button at the bottom of each post. Just mentioning it, since these were your

first posts in the forum and you might've missed it. Not hinting at anything.