A Bunch of Water-Cooling Questions

dannyboy2233

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Hey guys,
As the title states, I've got quite a few questions regarding water-cooling setups, as I am planning one for my rig.
1. On the top of my 650D, I need a low-profile < 35mm rad, and I was thinking of the Black Ice GTS240 or the Alphacool ST30. I was thinking that the B.I. would be good because of its high-FPI, meaning that (when I pair it with high-SP fans like the Corsair SP-120s or the Scythe GTs) there will be improved performance. However, another thing I do not know is if these fans will be sufficient for a 30-FPI radiator.
2. QDCs; I was looking at the Koolance QD3 Male/Female Quick Disconnect No-Spill Couplings, and I was planning on putting one pair connecting to my radiator, since that is at the lowest point in my build. However, I am not very knowledgeable at all with QDCs, so if someone could give me some pointers that'd be great.
3. Fill/drain port: My res is going to be one of the XS-PC dual-5.25" ones, with a single MCP655 built in. I don't know whether or not I should use/incorporate a fill/drain port, as I don't really know any of the reasons to do so.
4. One final thing: On my 650D, it is possible to unscrew the black box on which rests the HDD cages, meaning that I can fit a (relatively wide) 240mm rad down there; I think I've got 140mm of room or so, as opposed to half of that on the top. My first question about this: Should I get a low-profile, high-FPI rad for this, a tall, high-FPI rad, a low-profile, low-FPI rad, or a tall, low-FPI rad?
5. Also, How would this work? I've seen it done, but I think the only way for it to work would be to have the fans exhaust into the case, which may be suboptimal.
Thanks so much to everyone in advance, and I can't wait to hear all the answers! :)
 
Solution
1. I'm partial to XSPC EX series when it comes to slim rads.

2. Cool, I can see why you would want to use a QDC instead of a T-Line to drain. I had a T-Line in the dead center of my rig back when I was just running an XSPC kit, didnt look the best.
If you must use one, one possibility is to use a Male-Male G1/4 adapter to just directly attach the T-Line to something. Would look a bit cleaner than having it in the middle of a tubing run.

4. Use whatever rads you want, they will play nice with each other.

5. The front 200mm is usually an intake fan, dont know why the 650D would be different. If you plan to mod in 240mm fan holes in the bottom of the case, then I think you would be fine as your still getting cool air intake from the...
1. Is that 35mm requirement already accounting for the typical 25mm thick fan?
Though looking at images of the 650D, I think you'd be fine for all but the thickest rads.

2. Whats the purpose of the quick disconnects?

3. You can get an easy drain port by finding the lowest point into the loop, sticking a T-Block there and have a line off that with a valve or stop plug at the end. Fill ports, same thing just have them above the reservoir. Although I believe the XSPC bay res' have one already on the top, include enough slack in your tubing and you should be able to pull it out a bit and pour straight in.

4. If you have the room, thicker is better. However depending on what your cooling then you might not even need the extra rad space.

5. Yup, you would have it so that hot air is being dumped into the case. Such is how it works when your trying to keep all your radiators internal to the case. If your concerned by that, you can always externally mount a radiator.
 

dannyboy2233

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Thank you so much for your reply!!
As to the first one; No, it is not. I know that I've got 70mm+/-3mm space for a rad+fan, and I'd rather not cut it super close with a 45mm thick rad, since that would be exactly 70mm, which I'm not sure would really fit.
Another thing; the quick disconnects I was hoping tu put on my bottom (and maybe top) rad so that I could a). easily clean the rads, and b). the QDCs on the bottom rad could work for draining the rig (according to other things that I've seen on the internet). I'd like to keep a nice, clean look in my case, so I'd prefer to not use a T-Block; however, if that is the only way whatsoever, then I may have to give in.
Number three; yes, the XSPC reservoirs do have drain ports; as you said, you just pull the thing out an inch or so and can fill it from there.
Number four: That's what I was thinking as well; however, someone else told me that if your two/three/however many radiators are not from the same brand/company/line, then it will "disrupt the flow". I thought this sounded a bit wacky (since most people don't seem to obey this rule), but I wanted to check it with you guys.
Final question; How bad do you think it would be to have all that hot air dumped into the case? I plan on WCing my CPU and GPU, and there's a 200mm fan right next to my HDDs (hopefully exhausting all that hot air), so the things most in danger would (I guess) be my HDD/SSD and my RAM/motherboard... Do you think there will be an enormous difference to be seen in terms of temps in everything else from all the hot air, and if so, do you think that it's worth it?
Thank you so so so so much for your response! :)
 
1. I'm partial to XSPC EX series when it comes to slim rads.

2. Cool, I can see why you would want to use a QDC instead of a T-Line to drain. I had a T-Line in the dead center of my rig back when I was just running an XSPC kit, didnt look the best.
If you must use one, one possibility is to use a Male-Male G1/4 adapter to just directly attach the T-Line to something. Would look a bit cleaner than having it in the middle of a tubing run.

4. Use whatever rads you want, they will play nice with each other.

5. The front 200mm is usually an intake fan, dont know why the 650D would be different. If you plan to mod in 240mm fan holes in the bottom of the case, then I think you would be fine as your still getting cool air intake from the 200mm which would be enough to cancel out the worst effects of dumping heat into the case. If your replacing that front 200m fan with a 240mm rad...
Have you considered externally mounting a radiator? That would avoid this whole issue.
 
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dannyboy2233

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Thanks for all the answers. Do you know if there is a way to set this up so that there is no T-Line whatsoever?
Also, I don't want external radiators; I'm a tad bit pressed for space, and I want to keep my case looking as sleek as possible.
 
Some people just opt to cut the tubing every time they need too drain it, under the idea that of they need to drain the loop chaces are they will need new tubing anyway.
One idea I'v had recently was to just get a rotary fitting, and unscrew that from the component to let all the water out. Though obviously not as controlled as a proper line will be.
 

dannyboy2233

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But that wouldn't that have a chance of leaking water onto the components?
 

dannyboy2233

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Would it be easier to just do this with QDCs?
Also, on a completely unrelated note; where can I buy zip-ties? Mine seem to have gone missing, and I need to redo my cable management.
Thanks for the answers! :)
 
If you can open up the QDC's while they are disconnected, you could do it without a T-Line. I was just saying that if that isnt possible, a T-line is an option.

I tend to find them at odd shops, your budget 99c store type of places. Nearest hardware store probably isn't a bad bet either, sparkies use them as well for their cable management purposes.
 

dannyboy2233

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Pardon me for misunderstanding, but what exactly is it that you are finding at the store? QDCs, T-Lines, or rotary fittings?
 

dannyboy2233

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I'm not overly experienced with water-cooling, so I'd like to have as few places as possible where I can make mistakes...
 

MagR

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Hi

I've got some comments to make on questions 2 and 3. I can't comment on your radiator questions.

Question 2 - As far as fittings go Koolance are top of the range. However all QDC's are expensive and can be very restrictive (reduce flow). I would not use them personally. If you do make sure you use a pump with plenty of head pressure.

Question 3 - You can fill your loop using the bay reservoir as a previous poster said. To drain simply open the bung in the bay reservoir and pull off one of the lower hoses. If you are using Jubilee clips you can simply reattach it and retighten if necessary - no need to change the tubing unless you want to. You shouldn't need fill ports/T lines etc.

More importantly you mention you will use a bay reservoir with pump incorporated. I had this combination and didn't like it. Firstly it was very difficult to bleed, it took weeks. Secondly there was no way to stop the pump transmitting vibration noise to the case. I now use a conventional bay reservoir and have my Laing D5 (same as Swiftech 655) on base of case on a pad. Bleeding occurs simply by running the pump for a few minutes and there is no noise.

If you haven't room for the Swiftech on the floor you could consider using the Laing DDC (9w or 18w) as it is smaller and I've seen some very inventive ways of mounting it in cases.

Hope this helps

Mag