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Final PC Build Review Prior to Purchase - $1100 Budget Build

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July 25, 2013 12:27:21 PM

Hi guys. I have constructed my partlist of my first ever PC build. I intend to game and do a bit of programming on this PC. Before I order it, I have a few questions.

1. How well will this computer run? Will it handle next Generation games without needing an upgrade?

2. Is everything compatible? Will the RAM fit next to that huge fan? Will the GPU squeeze into that case?

3. Is the ram suitable for my CPU? I was told that my RAM would be underclocked to 1333MHz due to the 1.6v the RAM takes.

4. Is there anything I should downgrade or upgrade? Any extra fans or parts I need?

Please take extra precaution when answering number 2. If something is not compatible after I purchase it I may not be able to get a refund for the part. I only have one shot when buying this PC.

I only have $20 left in my budget so obviously something like a SSD is out of the question.

Thanks for any help!

I have two monitors, a 24"in and a 19". Obviously I play on the 24" and at a 1080p resolution. I plan to overclock the processor.

|PART LIST|
CASE: Zalman Z11 Plus Black Steel / Plastic ATX Mid Tower Computer Case
PSU: CORSAIR HX series HX650 650W ATX12V v2.2 / EPS12V 2.91 SLI Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
GPU: GIGABYTE GV-N770OC-2GD GeForce GTX 770 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 HDCP Ready Video Card
CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K Haswell 3.4GHz LGA 1150 84W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics BX80646I54670K
CPU Cooler: COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 Continuous Direct Contact 120mm Sleeve CPU Cooler Compatible with latest Intel 2011/1366/1155 and AMD FM1/FM2/AM3+
Motherboard: ASRock Z87 Extreme6 LGA 1150 Intel Z87 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
RAM: G.SKILL Sniper Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2133 (PC3 17000) Desktop Memory Model F3-17000CL11D-8GBSR
HDD: Western Digital WD Blue WD10EZEX 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive - OEM

|NEWEGG CART|
http://puu.sh/3LyjT.png
July 25, 2013 12:30:29 PM

So... where's the part list?
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July 25, 2013 12:34:57 PM

John Bauer said:
So... where's the part list?


...my bad... added to OP.
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Related resources
July 25, 2013 12:47:23 PM

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($217.98 @ Outlet PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ Outlet PC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($120.67 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($50.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($129.98 @ Outlet PC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($45.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.49 @ Amazon)
Total: $974.04
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-25 15:46 EDT-0400)

still have $100 for os and extra fans or whatever else is needed
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July 25, 2013 12:49:26 PM

RaisingTheBarHD said:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($217.98 @ Outlet PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ Outlet PC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($120.67 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($50.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($129.98 @ Outlet PC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($45.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.49 @ Amazon)
Total: $974.04
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-25 15:46 EDT-0400)

still have $100 for os and extra fans or whatever else is needed


I'd rather not downgrade my CPU, GPU, Motherboard, RAM, etc. for a SSD.. thanks anyways.
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July 25, 2013 12:53:37 PM

Marton said:
RaisingTheBarHD said:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($217.98 @ Outlet PC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ Outlet PC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($120.67 @ Newegg)
Memory: Crucial Ballistix Sport 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($50.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($129.98 @ Outlet PC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($45.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.49 @ Amazon)
Total: $974.04
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-25 15:46 EDT-0400)

still have $100 for os and extra fans or whatever else is needed


I'd rather not downgrade my CPU, GPU, Motherboard, RAM, etc. for a SSD.. thanks anyways.


well for the cpu, motherboard i would take ivy over haswell anyday and extreme 4 is a great mobo. the ram can be upgraded but why do you need 2133 when 1600 is most likely more than enough at 8gb. You never stated what resolution your monitor is so sorry for lack of information from the provider.
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July 25, 2013 1:06:34 PM

You don't need 2133 Ram. 1600 is fine.
I would take Ivy too for the cpu over haswell. Great MotherB though!

Build look fine overall but i would take RaisingTheBarHD's build over it.
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July 25, 2013 1:11:02 PM

morgilroka said:
You don't need 2133 Ram. 1600 is fine.
I would take Ivy too for the cpu over haswell. Great MotherB though!

Build look fine overall but i would take RaisingTheBarHD's build over it.

Z87 is a promising chipset, and I'm buying Haswell for my new build because of Z87's features.
OP: Stick with Haswell because of Z87's new stuff, even if the chips don't offer any significant performance upgrade.
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July 25, 2013 1:11:40 PM

Okay guys, updated OP. Sorry for not having the right format. :-)
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July 25, 2013 1:14:27 PM

morgilroka said:
You don't need 2133 Ram. 1600 is fine.
I would take Ivy too for the cpu over haswell. Great MotherB though!

Build look fine overall but i would take RaisingTheBarHD's build over it.


Why? I would get better performance out of games. Most of those parts are complete downgrades.
And at the RAM comments, how it's "unnecessary" to get such good RAM, it doesn't matter, it's the same price as normal 1600MHz.. I have a 10% promo code, on top of that.
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July 25, 2013 1:15:17 PM

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($225.49 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ Outlet PC)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($149.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($70.33 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($129.98 @ Outlet PC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($45.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.49 @ Amazon)
Total: $1030.21
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-25 16:14 EDT-0400)

still $100 less
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July 25, 2013 1:18:29 PM

Marton said:
morgilroka said:
You don't need 2133 Ram. 1600 is fine.
I would take Ivy too for the cpu over haswell. Great MotherB though!

Build look fine overall but i would take RaisingTheBarHD's build over it.


Why? I would get better performance out of games. Most of those parts are complete downgrades.
And at the RAM comments, how it's "unnecessary" to get such good RAM, it doesn't matter, it's the same price as normal 1600MHz.. I have a 10% promo code, on top of that.


then get the ram you choose and see what you actually notice, ivy is better for OC than haswell, no gaming performance boosts. you are using a 1080p monitor im assuming at 60hz which a 760 can get you 60fps on ultra on nearly all games with the exception of crysis, metro
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July 25, 2013 1:21:09 PM

RaisingTheBarHD said:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($225.49 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ Outlet PC)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($149.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($70.33 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($129.98 @ Outlet PC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($45.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.49 @ Amazon)
Total: $1030.21
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-25 16:14 EDT-0400)

still $100 less


Still has a worse video card and motherboard. All you pretty much did is downgrade PSU, GPU, RAM, Motherboard, Case, and add an optical drive + SSD. Also, I'm ordering in bulk from Newegg. I don't understand why I would downgrade for -$100 to get less frames, less performance, and a SSD and Optical Drive.

Also, it doesn't matter if I notice anything on the faster RAM, if two things were the same price and one was a little bit better, what would you get?
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July 25, 2013 1:28:12 PM

Marton, we are just giving our opinions not telling you what to do. People are giving valid input and your shooing the ideas away.
If you know what you want, then get it!

Good luck on the build!
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July 25, 2013 1:28:19 PM

Marton, we are just giving our opinions not telling you what to do. People are giving valid input and your shooing the ideas away.
If you know what you want, then get it!

Good luck on the build!
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July 25, 2013 1:31:17 PM

Marton said:
RaisingTheBarHD said:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($225.49 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ Outlet PC)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($149.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($70.33 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($129.98 @ Outlet PC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($45.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.49 @ Amazon)
Total: $1030.21
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-25 16:14 EDT-0400)

still $100 less


Still has a worse video card and motherboard. All you pretty much did is downgrade PSU, GPU, RAM, Motherboard, Case, and add an optical drive + SSD. Also, I'm ordering in bulk from Newegg. I don't understand why I would downgrade for -$100 to get less frames, less performance, and a SSD and Optical Drive.

Also, it doesn't matter if I notice anything on the faster RAM, if two things were the same price and one was a little bit better, what would you get?


then why are you asking peoples opinions? go spend more on the gpu and then realize you have a monitor that caps at 60fps and a 770 will make no difference than a 760 would, and i did not downgrade the psu you are simply overkilling it with the psu and the one i listed can handle all of the components + OC. The case you can change that is someones opinion i listed something in the budget, the motherboard is a good mobo that has all the ports that you are going to need unless you are using an eSata port which i dont think you are and a mini pcie port.
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July 25, 2013 1:32:49 PM

morgilroka said:
Marton, we are just giving our opinions not telling you what to do. People are giving valid input and your shooing the ideas away.
If you know what you want, then get it!

Good luck on the build!


+10000000000000000000 thank you, he is unwilling to accept peoples opinions and i dont understand why he made the thread if he doesnt take input from people who know what they are doing.
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July 25, 2013 1:39:59 PM

RaisingTheBarHD said:

then why are you asking peoples opinions? go spend more on the gpu and then realize you have a monitor that caps at 60fps and a 770 will make no difference than a 760 would, and i did not downgrade the psu you are simply overkilling it with the psu and the one i listed can handle all of the components + OC. The case you can change that is someones opinion i listed something in the budget, the motherboard is a good mobo that has all the ports that you are going to need unless you are using an eSata port which i dont think you are and a mini pcie port.


The reason i'm getting said PSU and Motherboard are because I save $80 on a combo with them together. If you click on the said link in the OP, you'll see that the combo is a pretty good deal. That's the only reason I'm "overkilling" it with the PSU (That PSU was the least Watts). I don't want to downgrade Motherboard because then I'll lose the combo and with the GPU I'm getting (which I also don't want to downgrade), it'll cost more than it currently does, even for a cheaper Motherboard. Also, here's my monitor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

I don't think that will cap at 60fps, would it?
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July 25, 2013 1:40:06 PM

Marton said:
RaisingTheBarHD said:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($225.49 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ Outlet PC)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($149.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($70.33 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($129.98 @ Outlet PC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($45.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.49 @ Amazon)
Total: $1030.21
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-25 16:14 EDT-0400)

still $100 less


Still has a worse video card and motherboard. All you pretty much did is downgrade PSU, GPU, RAM, Motherboard, Case, and add an optical drive + SSD. Also, I'm ordering in bulk from Newegg. I don't understand why I would downgrade for -$100 to get less frames, less performance, and a SSD and Optical Drive.

Also, it doesn't matter if I notice anything on the faster RAM, if two things were the same price and one was a little bit better, what would you get?

Marton, the difference between 2133 MHz and 1600 MHz framewise is probably less than 0.5 frames. RAM has more to do with productivity than it does with gaming, and for gaming 1866 MHz is pretty much the cap. The only reason to get RAM >2133 is for OC'ing (please note that I am talking about RAM >8GB in capacity).
Also, SSD's load games much, much, much faster, and that goes for everything else too. You could easily get a 60 GB SSD as a boot drive for around $80 or so, and still use an HDD for other things, and improve your performance.
Also, your case has NOTHING to do with framerate. Zero. Nada. It's personal preference and the feature list. Same with the motherboard. It's about the featureset and the quality, not the framerate. Also, you'll need an optical drive to install an OS, so there's no getting around that.
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July 25, 2013 1:43:42 PM

Marton said:
RaisingTheBarHD said:

then why are you asking peoples opinions? go spend more on the gpu and then realize you have a monitor that caps at 60fps and a 770 will make no difference than a 760 would, and i did not downgrade the psu you are simply overkilling it with the psu and the one i listed can handle all of the components + OC. The case you can change that is someones opinion i listed something in the budget, the motherboard is a good mobo that has all the ports that you are going to need unless you are using an eSata port which i dont think you are and a mini pcie port.


The reason i'm getting said PSU and Motherboard are because I save $80 on a combo with them together. If you click on the said link in the OP, you'll see that the combo is a pretty good deal. That's the only reason I'm "overkilling" it with the PSU (That PSU was the least Watts). I don't want to downgrade Motherboard because then I'll lose the combo and with the GPU I'm getting (which I also don't want to downgrade), it'll cost more than it currently does, even for a cheaper Motherboard. Also, here's my monitor: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

I don't think that will cap at 60fps, would it?


you are incompetent, if you would of read the thread i posted on how to ask for upgrades i would not have to assume you have the monitor you have.
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July 25, 2013 1:44:48 PM

IwinFTW said:
Marton said:
RaisingTheBarHD said:
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($225.49 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ Outlet PC)
Motherboard: MSI Z87-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($149.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($70.33 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 128GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($129.98 @ Outlet PC)
Storage: Western Digital Caviar Blue 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.98 @ Outlet PC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($249.99 @ Amazon)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($49.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: XFX 550W 80 PLUS Bronze Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($45.99 @ NCIX US)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.49 @ Amazon)
Total: $1030.21
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-07-25 16:14 EDT-0400)

still $100 less


Still has a worse video card and motherboard. All you pretty much did is downgrade PSU, GPU, RAM, Motherboard, Case, and add an optical drive + SSD. Also, I'm ordering in bulk from Newegg. I don't understand why I would downgrade for -$100 to get less frames, less performance, and a SSD and Optical Drive.

Also, it doesn't matter if I notice anything on the faster RAM, if two things were the same price and one was a little bit better, what would you get?

Marton, the difference between 2133 MHz and 1600 MHz framewise is probably less than 0.5 frames. RAM has more to do with productivity than it does with gaming, and for gaming 1866 MHz is pretty much the cap. The only reason to get RAM >2133 is for OC'ing (please note that I am talking about RAM >8GB in capacity).
Also, SSD's load games much, much, much faster, and that goes for everything else too. You could easily get a 60 GB SSD as a boot drive for around $80 or so, and still use an HDD for other things, and improve your performance.
Also, your case has NOTHING to do with framerate. Zero. Nada. It's personal preference and the feature list. Same with the motherboard. It's about the featureset and the quality, not the framerate. Also, you'll need an optical drive to install an OS, so there's no getting around that.


i was wrong to him as soon as i posted my first build, so maybe this will get some sense into him
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July 25, 2013 1:46:24 PM

Even if the monitor didn't cap at 60, the human eye can't notice ANY difference over 60fps... So it's useless! Capping frames at 60 is the way to go anyways because you don't want to overwork your card.
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July 25, 2013 1:47:18 PM

morgilroka said:
Even if the monitor didn't cap at 60, the human eye can't notice ANY difference over 60fps... So it's useless! Capping frames at 60 is the way to go anyways because you don't want to overwork your card.


just dont try anymore..
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July 25, 2013 1:48:15 PM

IwinFTW said:
\
you are incompetent, if you would of read the thread i posted on how to ask for upgrades i would not have to assume you have the monitor you have.


There really isn't a reason to be calling me incompetent, if you go to the OP you'll see I filled it out and fixed it, I just didn't do the filling out part in the way it showed, but rather more of a paragraph-format. Only thing i did not address was SLI-ing cards, but I think because there is only one card in the OP that it should be relatively obvious I am not going to have 2 GPUs.

Also if you would stop flaming this post, people are trying to help and explain things more thoroughly and you are telling them to stop, that's pretty nice of you. Could've just stopped posting after you called me incompetent. :-)

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July 25, 2013 1:53:04 PM

IwinFTW said:

Marton, the difference between 2133 MHz and 1600 MHz framewise is probably less than 0.5 frames. RAM has more to do with productivity than it does with gaming, and for gaming 1866 MHz is pretty much the cap. The only reason to get RAM >2133 is for OC'ing (please note that I am talking about RAM >8GB in capacity).
Also, SSD's load games much, much, much faster, and that goes for everything else too. You could easily get a 60 GB SSD as a boot drive for around $80 or so, and still use an HDD for other things, and improve your performance.
Also, your case has NOTHING to do with framerate. Zero. Nada. It's personal preference and the feature list. Same with the motherboard. It's about the featureset and the quality, not the framerate. Also, you'll need an optical drive to install an OS, so there's no getting around that.

Sorry for not addressing you earlier, I answered and it timed out, my post was lost..
Ya, I understand how the RAM wouldn't do much. But shouldn't I get it anyways since it's a little better for the same cost? Even if it does nothing.

Ah, I forgot about an optical drive. Here's a cheap one, will this work?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
It's $15 with the promo code.

I like the look of the case, plus it comes with 5 fans. Should I downgrade anyways?

Thanks for the help.
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July 25, 2013 1:57:26 PM

We aren't flaming this post. It's uselss. You, in your own words have basically told us what your getting... Even with opinion on upgrades you stick with your own build. Then buy it!
I don't see why you have to waist people's time posting non sense about the build when you know EXACTLY what your buying. You said in the post "Is there anything i should up/downgrade". That's asking our opinions on the build, We gave them.
If everything is combo'd for you for a good price... Then get it. why change?.. Why ask opinions lol

I'm done here and not going to keep repeating myself and Rasing's words.

Whatever you choose, good luck hope you enjoy it.
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July 25, 2013 2:08:20 PM

morgilroka said:
We aren't flaming this post. It's uselss. You, in your own words have basically told us what your getting... Even with opinion on upgrades you stick with your own build. Then buy it!
I don't see why you have to waist people's time posting non sense about the build when you know EXACTLY what your buying. You said in the post "Is there anything i should up/downgrade". That's asking our opinions on the build, We gave them.
If everything is combo'd for you for a good price... Then get it. why change?.. Why ask opinions lol

I'm done here and not going to keep repeating myself and Rasing's words.

Whatever you choose, good luck hope you enjoy it.


If you go to the OP and read the questions I asked, you'll see why I posted. I wanted to know if it was all compatible, fit, and would run if I stuck it in my case and powered it up.

Thanks anyways

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July 25, 2013 2:15:21 PM

Yes it's all compatible, also... You could swap out the hardrive for a 1TB seagate baracudda (i only say this because they have amazing customer support, also save 5$..)
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July 25, 2013 2:23:24 PM

morgilroka said:
Yes it's all compatible, also... You could swap out the hardrive for a 1TB seagate baracudda (i only say this because they have amazing customer support, also save 5$..)


Okay, I was looking for it when I found this combo. Will this optical drive work?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?Ite...

and just going to address the 4 original questions incase somebody can answer them

1. How well will this computer run? Will it handle next Generation games without needing an upgrade?

2. Is everything compatible? Will the RAM fit next to that huge fan? Will the GPU squeeze into that case?

3. Is the ram suitable for my CPU? I was told that my RAM would be underclocked to 1333MHz due to the 1.6v the RAM takes.

4. Is there anything I should downgrade or upgrade? Any extra fans or parts I need?
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July 25, 2013 2:32:07 PM

morgilroka said:
Yeah that drive will be fine, they all are basically the same. Some of the cheap ones though are quite loud.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/ComboDealDetails.aspx?Ite...

That OD is about the same price and i personally have used it in a couple builds, works great and is pretty quite.


Cool! I'll grab that one, then. Thanks for the help.
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Best solution

July 25, 2013 2:38:41 PM

Also, just to quickly answer your questions..

"Will it handle next-gen gaming?"
-Yes! This rig should last you quite a while, Although CPU intensive gaming is on the way so be ready to overclock (Which is why i would reccommend ivy over rose, it overclocks slightly better)

"Compatible?"
-Of course.

"Ram suitable?"
Like i said erlier, i don't see a need for ram over 1600 but you could up the voltage to ram. Even if it gets underclocked, you literally won't see a difference.

"Extra parts?"
Not really, you got a good cooler, you could buy some cheap fans for a push/pull config.

Hope this helps
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July 25, 2013 2:45:34 PM

morgilroka said:
Also, just to quickly answer your questions..

"Will it handle next-gen gaming?"
-Yes! This rig should last you quite a while, Although CPU intensive gaming is on the way so be ready to overclock (Which is why i would reccommend ivy over rose, it overclocks slightly better)

"Compatible?"
-Of course.

"Ram suitable?"
Like i said erlier, i don't see a need for ram over 1600 but you could up the voltage to ram. Even if it gets underclocked, you literally won't see a difference.

"Extra parts?"
Not really, you got a good cooler, you could buy some cheap fans for a push/pull config.

Hope this helps


It does help! :-)

One last bit. What does underclocking actually do? Why would it happen?

And could you give a link to the motherboard you guys are recommending? ill try to see if I can squeeze it into my budget..
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July 25, 2013 2:48:31 PM

Just a lower clock rate compared to what it is capable of at stock. Newer and faster RAM may be underclocked to match older systems as an inexpensive way to replace rare or discontinued memory. This might also be necessary if stability problems are encountered at higher settings, especially in a PC with several memory modules of different clock speed. If you underclock a PC processor, and do not change the clock factor or multiplier (the ratio between the processor and the memory clock speed), the memory will also be underclocked.

Like i said, you will see no difference at all! don't sweat it.
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July 25, 2013 2:52:46 PM

morgilroka said:
Just a lower clock rate compared to what it is capable of at stock. Newer and faster RAM may be underclocked to match older systems as an inexpensive way to replace rare or discontinued memory. This might also be necessary if stability problems are encountered at higher settings, especially in a PC with several memory modules of different clock speed. If you underclock a PC processor, and do not change the clock factor or multiplier (the ratio between the processor and the memory clock speed), the memory will also be underclocked.

Like i said, you will see no difference at all! don't sweat it.


Alright, I'll keep that in mind. I editted my last post, you probably didn't see it before you posted. Care to shoot me a link of a suitable ivy motherboard? I'll try to find a good combo so that I can stay in budget. :) 

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