Will all these parts work together? also maybe some parts cheaper but similar capabilities

P01S0NM0NK3Y

Honorable
Aug 6, 2013
2
0
10,510
i want to know if these parts work together for my first build:
Mother Board- Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD5H LGA 1150 Motherboard

CPU- Intel Core i5 4670K Unlocked Quad Core LGA 1150 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo) Processor

RAM- Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2x 8GB) DDR3 RAM CMZ16GX3M2A1600C9

Graphics Card- Galaxy GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card

Hard Drive- Western Digital WD Red WD30EFRX 3.5" 3TB SATA 6.0Gb/s Hard Drive

DVD Drive- ASUS Black 12X BD-ROM 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-ROM SATA Internal Blu-ray Drive Model BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS – OEM

Power Supply- HALE90 v2 1200W

Sound Card- ASUS Xonar DX PCIe Soundcard 7.1 Channel

Case- Phantom 820

Mouse- Razer DeathAdder

Keyboard- Razer DeathStalker
Also If There Are Any Parts Similar That Are Cheaper THANKS in advance
 
Solution
Hete is good build for you. Case you did have so I did leave it out.

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1oQfB
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1oQfB/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1oQfB/benchmarks/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($154.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($74.08 @ TigerDirect)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra Plus 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($169.99 @ Microcenter)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($119.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card...
You don't need the pricey MB; get a GA-Z87X-D3H, ASRock Z87 Extreme4, or Z87-A.

Drop to 8GB RAM if gaming.

Faster GPU - get a 770.

Cheaper HDD - no point in WD Red. Cheapest 7200RPM drive. You probably don't need a 3TB one either.

Way cheaper PSU. Something in the 550W+ range, or 750W+ if you want to SLI/CF. Brands in my sig are reputable.

Drop the soundcard. Onboard is fine.

Go with a Phantom 410. Much cheaper.

I'm not much of an expert on peripherals, but I think they're decent. Not sure of value though.
 
Hete is good build for you. Case you did have so I did leave it out.

PCPartPicker part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1oQfB
Price breakdown by merchant: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1oQfB/by_merchant/
Benchmarks: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1oQfB/benchmarks/

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($199.99 @ Microcenter)
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-U12S 55.0 CFM CPU Cooler ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87X-UD3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($154.99 @ NCIX US)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($74.08 @ TigerDirect)
Storage: Sandisk Ultra Plus 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($169.99 @ Microcenter)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($119.99 @ NCIX US)
Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 760 2GB Video Card ($259.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic G-750 750W 80 PLUS Gold Certified ATX12V / EPS12V Power Supply ($128.63 @ Amazon)
Total: $1157.65
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2013-08-06 06:22 EDT-0400)

And couple "better" PSU.

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/seasonic-power-supply-x850

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/rosewill-power-supply-tachyon750

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/xfx-power-supply-p1850bbefx

 
Solution
Well gold is beter. They are more expensive. Made with better quality. better efficiency means that psu do not make so much heat whe it is under load. Gold psu are 50 degree tested. Bronze are 40 degree tested. Gold psu do have two years longer warranty. So Id get rather 650w gold than 750w bronze. But that is just me. Still think this is best buy now.
Normal price 179$ http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182273
And now 120 $ http://pcpartpicker.com/part/rosewill-power-supply-tachyon750
And that is PLATINUM not GOLD.

This is good buy gold psu: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817182071
Better than 750w bronze with 3 year warranty. IMO.
 


Gold can be better built, but not always.

There are gold PSUs rated for 40C and Bronze rated at 50C. It's simply what the vendor chooses.

Wrong. Warranty is whatever the vendor chooses.

650W isn't really enough for SLI. You'll end up getting a new PSU in a few years, or not SLIing.

You'll never see the difference on your power bill.

Just save the cash. I'd much rather have this than this.

The only time efficiency has a major effect is when it's in a space constrained, power-constrained, heat-constrained datacentre where it's running at 75%+ all the time in 35C conditions where you're paying for the power, and cooling, and then power for the cooling.
 
Gold can be better built, but not always.

Oh eally? Show me and the OP.

There are gold PSUs rated for 40C and Bronze rated at 50C. It's simply what the vendor chooses.

So? What is your point here? Show me and OP this too.

650W isn't really enough for SLI. You'll end up getting a new PSU in a few years, or not SLIing.

Oh really? I think new gpu will take less wattage than old ones. So maybe you are not right this time.

Why do someone somwhere think it is better buy bigger psu if you want in next five years sli system.
Then there will be new faster video cardsand you can buy one new one to do the same job. Buy better smaller one if you do not go for sli. Then you really do not need the sli anyway. IMO opinion is better buy good quality gold psu that do have good reliability over over more wattage. 60-80% usage for psu is good. I just wonder how 450w psu works with build like this.


 
http://www.hardocp.com/article/2011/10/04/80_plus_irrelevant_to_you_when_buying_psu/#.UgMBPUBH4pU
Not all PSUs are even legitimately certified.

Then there's the fact that 80PLUS only checks efficiency. There's nothing to stop Raidmax putting Fuhjyyu caps in a Gold or Platinum PSU, and then failing after a month. Or lacking MOVs, input filtering, overcurrent protection etc.

Something in the 550W+ range, or 750W+ if you want to SLI/CF
I did say to get a smaller PSU, unless you want to SLI/CF.

Doesn't matter if future cards drop in wattage, because you won't be able to SLI with current ones. 2x770 is really tight for a 650W PSU, so I'd suggest getting a 750W if you want to SLI, especially considering downrating over time.

80Plus is only mildly correlated with reliability. Just because it's efficient doesn't mean it will last.
 
Good 650w psu gives 790w of total power. Like seasonic x 650w
Look here: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Seasonic-X-Series-650-W-Power-Supply-Review/837/8

Good 750w psu gives you over 900w
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Seasonic-X-Series-750-W-Power-Supply-Review/1591

This 550w gives you 620w total to 100% Load.
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Rosewill-CAPSTONE-550M-Power-Supply-Review/1584
http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Rosewill-CAPSTONE-550M-Power-Supply-Review/1584/9
This is good to read: http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Rosewill-CAPSTONE-550M-Power-Supply-Review/1584/11


So what is good? Better psu is made good parts it has low ripple and noise levels. It works long time. It do have long warranty. So what I call a good psu is a GOOD. But cheap is maybe not. Efficiency you get with all that.
But no point to make build cheaper and make it worse over the reliability. IMO.

So how much wattage you really need? That is what OP needs to think. IMO.

Then if OP wants to buy SLI ready psu this is good buy now.
Save 60$ and get good psu. I think this is a good deal. Ends today this offer.
http://pcpartpicker.com/part/rosewill-power-supply-tachyon750

Then there's the fact that 80PLUS only checks efficiency. There's nothing to stop Raidmax putting Fuhjyyu caps in a Gold or Platinum PSU, and then failing after a month. Or lacking MOVs, input filtering, overcurrent protection etc.

That is why OP is best to read review before buy any suggestion. Only way to know what is really in that psu.
Is this a good psu?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=vYxNTwBZQjg
Look the review and you will find out.
http://www.legitreviews.com/article/1995/1/

 
That is why OP is best to read review before buy any suggestion. Only way to know what is really in that psu.
That's what I meant. You don't just go 'It's Gold, so it's good'. You buy it from either a very reputable manufacturer, or you read the reviews. FYI: XFX is just rebranded SeaSonics.

I would be skeptical about running it above rated wattage for long - for one thing, ripple usually goes to hell, which heats up your caps.

My main point is that if it's not built significantly better than a cheaper PSU, it's not worth spending the money just for better efficiency. Sure, don't go for a really useless one, but there's little point going above Bronze.

That is a very good deal though, and I'd consider the extra $10 above this to be worth it. Any more and there really isn't a point.