WD800AAJS Board Swap

[tcv]

Hello, this is just a little pet project of mine.

WD800AAJS drive was in a workstation that was killed by a surge. Drive would not spin up.

I ordered a replacement drive, hoping (but not knowing) that I would get an identical PCB. No go.

The old one: 2060-701590-000 REV A
The new one: 2060-701590-001 REV B

The old board has a U12 chip. The new one does not.

The old HDD spins up with the new PCB installed, but the drive will not fully initialize.

I have some soldering skills, but not on SMD.

Is there a way to make the new board work with the old drive? Perhaps transferring the Marvell?

thanks,

tcv

 

[lonewolf7]

It will never work. Don't waste you time. Many factors will come to play to work it properly. The most important thing will be the the firmware of the drive which contains the info for proper function of the drive and the rom chip needs to be swapped too, with the exact same one.

 

[fzabkar]

IMHO the most expedient solution is to purchase a compatible PCB. The following supplier includes a free firmware transfer.

http://www.hdd-parts.com/

You may be able to get the new board working, but you will need special tools to reprogram the MCU's internal flash memory (assuming that this will work), or you will need to locate the external programming resistors that tell the MCU to look for external flash memory.

 

[tcv]

IMHO the most expedient solution is to purchase a compatible PCB. The following supplier includes a free firmware transfer.

http://www.hdd-parts.com/

You may be able to get the new board working, but you will need special tools to reprogram the MCU's internal flash memory (assuming that this will work), or you will need to locate the external programming resistors that tell the MCU to look for external flash memory.

I've since found the same PCB here:
http://www.hddzone.com/wd-2060701590000-sata-lmodel-pcb-p-82.html

So, you're saying I'd buy that and I'd still have to transfer firmware?

What if I could determine what firmware was on the old PCB? And, presuming I could buy the replacement PCB, could I find a utility to load that firmware version on the replacement PCB?

 

[fzabkar]

Forget hddzone, unless you can transfer U12 on your own.

It's not just firmware that needs to be transferred. It's the unique "adaptive" data.

See http://malthus.zapto.org/viewtopic.php?t=225&p=1684#p548

The differences are in the "MODs".

 

[tcv]

I'm not sure if you saw it but the old board does not have U12. So, there wouldn't be a U12 to transfer.

Let's try a different idea. Is there anything I can do to find out why the old board might be messed up? All that I know at this point is the hard drive does not spin up when powered. What might cause that? Is that strictly an issue of power not getting into the drive? Are there commands and initialization sequences that happen BEFORE a drive motor starts to spin?

It's just a chance to learn something.

 

[fzabkar]

You wrote ...

"The old board has a U12 chip. The new one does not".

Anyway, I see your board now ...

http://pcb-hdd.com/images/PCB%20WD6400AACS-00G8B1%202060-701590-000%20REV%20A.JPG

Personally I would start by measuring the resistances of the TVS diodes (D4 and D3) and the zero-ohm resistors (R64 and R67):
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/bigcircuitboard_diodes.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/TVS_diode_FAQ.html

Then measure the onboard voltages. These would be present at coils L1 and L2, transistor Q1, and the anode of diode D2.

Also clean the oxidisation off the PCB's HDA contacts (J1) with a soft white pencil eraser.

 

[tcv]

You wrote ...

"The old board has a U12 chip. The new one does not".

Anyway, I see your board now ...

http://pcb-hdd.com/images/PCB%20WD6400AACS-00G8B1%202060-701590-000%20REV%20A.JPG

Personally I would start by measuring the resistances of the TVS diodes (D4 and D3) and the zero-ohm resistors (R64 and R67):
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/bigcircuitboard_diodes.jpg
http://www.users.on.net/~fzabkar/HDD/TVS_diode_FAQ.html

Then measure the onboard voltages. These would be present at coils L1 and L2, transistor Q1, and the anode of diode D2.

Also clean the oxidisation off the PCB's HDA contacts (J1) with a soft white pencil eraser.

Yeah, I ... uh ... got a little confused as to which one was the dead board. I am sure of it now. The old one (the dead one) does not have U12.

Your ideas are fantastic. Thanks. As soon as this damned week is over with, I'll do some reading and let you know what I find. Thank you.

 

[tcv]

Personally I would start by measuring the resistances of the TVS diodes (D4 and D3) and the zero-ohm resistors (R64 and R67)

Still have more to do, but here's what I have right now, using tone/diode function on DMM <100ohms:

R64 and R67 both measure 0.009.

For TVS (Blk on cathode):
D3: 0.43
D4: 0.5

Tomorrow I'll be able to power up the board and test the onboard voltages.

A lot of this is new to me, so correct me and ask me for additional stuff, please.

 

[tcv]

You wrote ...
Then measure the onboard voltages. These would be present at coils L1 and L2, transistor Q1, and the anode of diode D2.

Also clean the oxidisation off the PCB's HDA contacts (J1) with a soft white pencil eraser.

Ok, here's the last pieces unless I've done something wrong:

L1 shows 1.1
L2 shows 2.5

Q1 ... there are different voltages on the legs and I don't know how read a transistor yet... I'll look this up a bit more, but I found on the top side 4.8. Left leg 3.8, Middle 5, Right left 3.2.

D2 Anode: -5.25

Cleaned up the contacts at J1. HUGE difference.

 

[fzabkar]

The voltage at L1 (+1.1V) is the Vcore for the MCU.

The voltage at L2 (+2.5V) appears to be the supply for the SDRAM, and possibly a Vio supply for the MCU.

The emitter pin of Q1 is the +3.3V supply for U12, and possibly a second Vio supply for the MCU.

The anode of D2 is the -5V supply for the preamp inside the HDA.

All these voltages are OK. Since these voltages are generated by the SMOOTH chip, then it appears that this chip is at least partly functional. The SMOOTH chip also spins the motor and positions the voice coil.

ISTM that the most likely culprit may be the MCU (or SDRAM or U12). Alternatively, is it possible that the drive has been configured to Power Up In Standby (PUIS)? If so, then it should still show up in BIOS, albeit with a blank model name. You might also like to install the PM2 jumper. This programs the drive to Power Up In Standby. If there is a problem with the SMOOTH chip's motor control circuitry, then this may prevent the MCU from being bothered by it.

 

[tcv]

All these voltages are OK. Since these voltages are generated by the SMOOTH chip, then it appears that this chip is at least partly functional. The SMOOTH chip also spins the motor and positions the voice coil.

It's nice to know I measured everything right.

ISTM that the most likely culprit may be the MCU (or SDRAM or U12). Alternatively, is it possible that the drive has been configured to Power Up In Standby (PUIS)? If so, then it should still show up in BIOS, albeit with a blank model name. You might also like to install the PM2 jumper. This programs the drive to Power Up In Standby. If there is a problem with the SMOOTH chip's motor control circuitry, then this may prevent the MCU from being bothered by it.

Re: PUIS. This drive was installed in a plain old desktop. Nothing fancy. If PUIS was set, I wouldn't necessarily know. I can tell you that:

1. If I attach the drive to a regular desktop (albeit not the _same_ desktop it was installed in), the BIOS hangs at the end which says to me the drive can't be detected.

2. If I jumper P2, I can make it through BIOS and it seems BIOS knows something is there, but it can't identify it.

And the drive still doesn't spin up.

I haven't looked closely at the MCU on the old or donor PCB to know if they're the same. (I guess I should report that I believe you're talking about the Marvell chip when you say "MCU.")

Is there anyway to qualify the RAM?

And any other tests you'd like me to perform?

 

[fzabkar]

The Marvell MCU executes a power-on self test during which it confirms the integrity of the SDRAM, flash memory, and various other components. I presume that it also performs a rudimentary test of the SMOOTH chip, and perhaps the preamp.

When you install the PM2 jumper, the MCU senses its presence and refrains from spinning up the motor. Instead it responds to BIOS with a cut-down version of the Identify Device information block. Since the drive's model number is stored in firmware module MOD 02 in a reserved System Area (SA) on the platters rather than in flash memory, the drive identifies itself with a blank model number.

Based on your drive's symptoms, it now appears that the MCU, SDRAM and flash memory may be OK and that the problem may be elsewhere.

I don't know if it will work, but I would try to read the bad board's flash memory using the demo version of WDR UDMA or NazYura's tools. The latter runs under DOS and requires that your SATA controller be configured in BIOS for legacy IDE mode (so that the drive appears on the old ISA IDE ports).

Try MAVR_FL:
http://nazyura.hardw.net/000006.htm

WDR Demo:
http://malthus.zapto.org/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=33&p=39
http://malthus.zapto.org/viewtopic.php?f=32&t=84&p=1697

Once you have retrieved your board's flash memory, then we can examine it to make sure it is intact. I suggest you read the "ROM" data at least twice and then compare the two copies.

 

[tcv]

I don't know if it will work, but I would try to read the bad board's flash memory using the demo version of WDR UDMA or NazYura's tools. The latter runs under DOS and requires that your SATA controller be configured in BIOS for legacy IDE mode (so that the drive appears on the old ISA IDE ports).

Fantastic. Thank you.

Question: Does it matter whether the bad board is screwed back onto the drive? I have it screwed back on now. I just want to be sure that it's okay to leave it there.

Also: I take it that the drive needs to be connected to an internal SATA controller. (i.e. NO USB/SATA converter or eSATA/SATA converter.)

 

[fzabkar]

You cannot use those utilities on a USB-connected drive. It must be attached to a SATA port.

As for whether you could access the board on its own, I don't know, but it would be interesting to try.

 

[tcv]

As for whether you could access the board on its own, I don't know, but it would be interesting to try.

I figured you can't use USB. Just checking!

My BIOS here (Dell branded) only has "RAID ON/OFF" for SATA operation. I think that RAID OFF means IDE and RAID ON means AHCI. I went through the settings and didn't see anything about IDE mode, although I have seen that in other BIOSs. I have other systems here so I may be able to find something.

MAVR_FL could not find the drive under any setting. This might be due to the wackiness mentioned above. I downloaded the WDR demo and am about to burn Hirens. I tried running WDR under UBCD's miniXP environment, but it couldn't find porttalk.sys and I couldn't move it to system32 as that's on the CD. I attempted to adjust the work directory in the INI to no avail.

Still playing with it.

 

[fzabkar]

One other thing I forgot to suggest was to monitor the motor terminals for any voltage activity at power on. Of course you would need to remove the PM2 jumper.

I don't have a photo of the reverse side of your board, but a similar PCB has 4 test points labelled as E50-E53.

You might also like to measure the resistances of R6 and R8 near the motor terminals. These look like they may be the current sense resistors for the spindle motor. If I'm right, then one end of the resistor array should connect to ground.

 

[tcv]

One other thing I forgot to suggest was to monitor the motor terminals for any voltage activity at power on. Of course you would need to remove the PM2 jumper.

I don't have a photo of the reverse side of your board, but a similar PCB has 4 test points labelled as E50-E53.

You might also like to measure the resistances of R6 and R8 near the motor terminals. These look like they may be the current sense resistors for the spindle motor. If I'm right, then one end of the resistor array should connect to ground.

I found E50-E53. I'll check it out.

Tell me: What is a "resistor array" and how I would I know if it connects to ground?

By the way: I attempted powerup of the board sans drive. Same: BIOS wouldn't get through full POST without PM2. I didn't try it with PM2 since I believe you said that this would prevent the BIOS from getting full information about the drive anyway...

 

[fzabkar]

A resistor array is a group of resistors that are connected together in a certain way, often in parallel or in series.

For example, if you had two 0.5 Watt, 1 ohm resistors connected in parallel, then their combined wattage would be 1W and their combined resistance would be 0.5 ohm. If instead the manufacturer were to use a single 1W resistor, then this would be comparatively large.

 

[tcv]

A resistor array is a group of resistors that are connected together in a certain way, often in parallel or in series.

For example, if you had two 0.5 Watt, 1 ohm resistors connected in parallel, then their combined wattage would be 1W and their combined resistance would be 0.5 ohm. If instead the manufacturer were to use a single 1W resistor, then this would be comparatively large.

Thanks for the explanation!

Quick update then I'm out for the night.

I got the WD utility to run, but I don't really know if I'm looking at the drive. Under the "Primary" port option, I get what you see in my attached image. I've tried other custom port ranges and most of those have resulted in hard freezes. Off-hand, I don't know the IRQ memory addresses for SATA 0 is and whether it's possible to get them. I may need to try a different workstation.

I also haven't been able to really query for drive information -- SMART, whatever.

 

[fzabkar]

I would test the utility with your replacement drive. Just use it to read the ROM or modules.

As for the original PCB, try placing it in "safe mode". AIUI this entails installing 3 jumpers over the 3 pairs of pins closest to the SATA connector. The 4th pin should remain unjumpered.

As for the SMART data, these are stored on the platters, not on the PCB.

 

[tcv]

I would test the utility with your replacement drive. Just use it to read the ROM or modules.

Ah, good call I can speak to the good drive. I know what port settings I need to apply to speak to the hard drive on SATA0.

I don't know the steps to dump the RAM, though. Do you?

As for the original PCB, try placing it in "safe mode". AIUI this entails installing 3 jumpers over the 3 pairs of pins closest to the SATA connector. The 4th pin should remain unjumpered.

Regrettably "Safe Mode" did not work. What I mean to say is: the drive behaves as if it was unjumpered (P2) old drive. The BIOS hangs at the end.

I have found out that jumpering P2 on the good or bad drive seems to have an adverse effect on WDR. On both drives, I launch WDR, I choose the SATA0 port, I choose WD-Marvell. At that point, anything I do will cause a hard freeze.

Any thoughts on that?

Cheers...

 

[tcv]

One other thing I forgot to suggest was to monitor the motor terminals for any voltage activity at power on. Of course you would need to remove the PM2 jumper.

I don't have a photo of the reverse side of your board, but a similar PCB has 4 test points labelled as E50-E53.

Did this this AM. E50-E53 measure a consistent +6v (it's more than 6). This number does not change from start up. I also should note that the new drive shows 3.9v on those test points.

You might also like to measure the resistances of R6 and R8 near the motor terminals. These look like they may be the current sense resistors for the spindle motor. If I'm right, then one end of the resistor array should connect to ground.

0.08 on the 200 setting of the DMM across both resistors.

If something doesn't seem right, let me know because I am writing this from memory. I didn't write down the measurements as I took them. Blah.

 

[fzabkar]

I don't have an appropriate setup at the moment, so I can't work through the procedures at my end.

However, the 0.08 ohm reading appears to be wrong.

If this is your board ...

http://pcb-hdd.com/images/WD10EAVS-00D7B0%202060-701590-000%20REV%20A%20PCB.JPG

... then R6 and R8 are 1.0 ohm resistors, and they should measure 0.50 ohm if they are connected in parallel. One end should also have a resistance of 0 ohm to ground.

 

[tcv]

I don't have an appropriate setup at the moment, so I can't work through the procedures at my end.

However, the 0.08 ohm reading appears to be wrong.

If this is your board ...

http://pcb-hdd.com/images/WD10EAVS-00D7B0%202060-701590-000%20REV%20A%20PCB.JPG

... then R6 and R8 are 1.0 ohm resistors, and they should measure 0.50 ohm if they are connected in parallel. One end should also have a resistance of 0 ohm to ground.

Well, let's make sure of a few things:

1. How can I be sure that's the right board? What markings should I look for?

2. I am measuring those resistors in the same way I measured the others ... probes to either side of the resistor. Perhaps I should be doing it differently?

3. To test for connection to ground, I imagine I can do that with continuity test? Pick one edge of one resistor and tap ground and listen for a buzz?

Thanks!