Clean windows 7 install on a new SSD

Hello, today I got my new PC. I have no OS on my PC. I have 1 SSD and 1 HDD on it. I am wondering how it is possible to install Windows 7 on my SSD, it differs than installing them on a HDD?
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  1. Hi, Not much. It's good to remove the HDD when installing Windows and set SATA to AHCI. If connected to a SATA 3 port, use a SATA 3 cable.
  2. In theory, there is no difference, save that the SSD is smaller than a normal HDD. If you are running Intel 68 or newer, you can set up up to 64GB of SSD space to 'accelerate' a HDD. It's just a cache setup, but it's pretty good. Otherwise, you should be able to install right to the SSD and set up the HDD however you want.

    I can give you more detailed info if you have more detailed system specs.
  3. Thanks for you advices. Here are my system specs:

    CPU: Intel Core i7 4770 3.4 GHz
    GPU: nVidia GeForce GTX 760 OC
    Motherboard: Gigabyte Socket 1155 GA-Z77X-UD3H
    RAM: Corsair Vengeance 8GB DDR3 Non ECC CL9 1600MHz (CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9B) (Kit 2 x 4096)
    SSD: Samsung 128GB 840 Pro Series MZ-7PD128BW Solid State Drive SATA III SSD 2.5''
    HDD: Western Digital 1TB Caviar Black
    Power Supply: Corsair GS Series GS800 80Plus Bronze “2013 Edition”
  4. Do you mean i7-3770? Just curious, because the 4770 is LGA1150 and a Z77 mobo is going to support LGA1155.

    For caching, it doesn't matter, both generations support it. It is a software/firmware based set up and you have to install Intel Smart Response Technology (or Rapid Storage Technology, as it is now). The limit is 64GB, so to use a 128GB SSD, you would partition off 64GB (or less) and pair it to the HDD and then use the other half for whatever you want. The 'accelerated' disk is listed as one volume in Windows and you can accelerate a boot drive, you just have to install Windows first.

    As for reliability, there are a couple settings that make a big difference. You can get better performance if you only write-back to the HDD at intervals, but you risk data loss. Not usually good on a boot disk, and I have heard of this ruining a Windows install. I personally don't do it.

    For a drive of the size you have, 128GB, I would just use it independently and install the OS directly to it. You have a great SSD, but make sure to install it on a SATA 6Gb/s port or it will be bottlenecked. You have two of these ports and I would just connect both disks to these for the time being, not that it should technically matter.

    If you want some stupid crazy speed (and don't mind reinstalling Windows every two months), you can get another 128GB SSD, preferably another 840 Pro, and put them in RAID 0. That is what I use for a boot drive (well, I have regular 840s) and it's fast. Like 957MB/s sequential reads fast. Is it worth it? No, probably not, but it is fun.

    Other options would be to partition off something like 32GB of the SSD for a cache and then install Windows on what's left. There are a lot of things you can do. Just ask if you have questions.
  5. Also, your SATA 6Gb/s ports are the white ones on top. Your user manual took forever to load.
  6. Thanks for the great info. I will inform you as soon as I finish the installization. No, I have i7 4770 not 3770. Is there a problem with that?
  7. shadowfolk said:
    Thanks for the great info. I will inform you as soon as I finish the installization. No, I have i7 4770 not 3770. Is there a problem with that?

    Well, like I said, the i7-4770 is a LGA1150 component. The motherboard you listed has the older LGA1155 socket on it, which was used for the last generation such as the i7-3770. These are not inter-compatible. I am guessing that either your CPU or mobo was simply mistyped, though you might want to double check real quick.

    Intel ARK for the CPU:

    Site for the mobo listed:
  8. The Intel 87 chipset does everything the 77 and 68 do plus more, so don't worry about that.
  9. I'm not so familiar with all that stuff. It's my first time that I am building a PC on my own, so I am a bit worried right now. My mobo is compatible with my CPU or there is going to be some sort of problem with the compability? No I didn't miss-type anything.
  10. Your CPU uses a different socket than your motherboard has, LGA1150 vs. LGA1155. The CPU literally won't fit in the socket, short of forcing it in. Regardless, it wouldn't work even if you beat it in with a hammer.

    Before you return anything, double check the packages and labels to make sure there is a problem. The last thing you want to do is something rash. I remember a guy who bought the wrong form factor case and freaked out, returning all the stuff he bought and swearing he was going to stay a console gamer. Figure out exactly what you have, and I mean what it literally on the boxes and from looking at the products themselves, not just what is on a packing list. Amazon has shipped me so much wrong crap over the years, it's a wonder they even let me print the return labels anymore. Then figure out what you need to make what you want. If you have to return the motherboard? So be it, get a different one. Decide to make a step back on the CPU? That's fine too.

    If you have questions, ask them. Feel free to message me, and remember that Google is your friend. Once you think you have everything together, you might consider posting a 'review my build' here on the forums. Tom's is pretty good at finding any issues. But hey, good luck with it.
  11. Actually, I have the i7-3770. I was confused cause I was going to buy i7-4770 but the final moment I changed my mind. Sorry for the confusion.
  12. Naw, it's totally cool. The compatibilities can get a little crazy now and then and Intel doesn't do the best job of relating what exactly works with what. I use a 3770K myself and I love it. Unless you need the very specific advantages Haswell (4xxx) has over Ivy Bridge (3xxx), you aren't missing much by buying last gen. I still sort of wonder if making the leap to LGA2011 would have been worth it, but my machine was expensive enough as it is.
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