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Asus Formula vi and questions about mobos in general, first time buider

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September 21, 2013 7:44:41 AM

Hey everyone, I was wondering if http://www.asus.com/us/Motherboards/MAXIMUS_VI_FORMULA/
will be a good mobo for me, i need wifi and this one has it included (is it fast enough to game on?) and it seems pretty physically strong(my first pc build så im afraid of breaking the board when i install the cpu fan) it also claims to have good soundfeatures. its a bit pricy for me really but if you wise people say its good then it might be worth the extra cost :)  also googled the board and there was something about aluminum coating inside the coolingthingy that could en up corroding, will this matter if i dont do water cooling at all? and also can i have water cooling without using the integrated feautre on the board if i want to? and last but not least, can i overclock safely if i only have a fan cooler for the cpu? an aftermarked fan obviously. if this mobo is shit can you recomend anything else?

More about : asus formula questions mobos general time buider

a c 243 V Motherboard
September 21, 2013 8:07:47 AM

To my mind's it's the best Z87 board available.

As to the aluminum thing ..... what ya deal with a lot on forums is people come into a forum as newbies and learn from things that more experienced ..... and some inexperienced :)  ..... say. But as time goes on things change. In the early days of water cooling this was a serious issue....... but here's it's not.

1. The water block is anodized and then coated.

From wikipedia
Quote:
Anodizing increases corrosion resistance and wear resistance, and provides better adhesion for paint primers and glues than does bare metal.


2. In order for galvanic corrosion to take places, there needs to be ions in the coolant. Distilled water has no ions.

3. In my profession I oft work with power plants and with emergency power generators .... like ya car, they have copper rads, iron blocks and aluminum heads .... ever heard of an engine corroding ? Many power plant engines are over 50 years old with no signs of corrosion. That's because the coolant contains a corrosion inhibitor which renders this concern moot.

As to the water cooling issue, I'll be using the same board once my case (Enthoo primo) is released. You can read about various WC concerns starting here:

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1785226/water-co...

Feel free to jump into any of the subject specific water cooling threads linked to that page with any questions.

But in short, here's ya options:

1. One semi-open water loop The CM Eisberg 240L Prestige was used in this build with the Maximus VI Formula ... no, ya don't need the fancy fittings but they sure do look gorgeous :) 

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?33364-Maximus-...

2, A water cooling kit.....knowing what case you were using woulkd be a big help. But here's an example

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16551/ex-wat-217/XSPC...

To add the MoBo cooling, you will need an extra 2 fittings

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12504/ex-tub-789/XSPC...

Most die hard water coolers will use nothing but distilled water .... but if ya concerned with corrosion, you can add an inhibitor or use a pre-prepared or mixed coolant such as

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17708/ex-liq-285/Mayh...

As for a full blown water cooling loop, I'd be happy to help you since I'll be using the same board. Again, start with the links here with any specific component questions

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1785226/water-co...




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September 21, 2013 8:28:19 AM

JackNaylorPE said:
To my mind's it's the best Z87 board available.

As to the aluminum thing ..... what ya deal with a lot on forums is people come into a forum as newbies and learn from things that more experienced ..... and some inexperienced :)  ..... say. But as time goes on things change. In the early days of water cooling this was a serious issue....... but here's it's not.

1. The water block is anodized and then coated.

From wikipedia
Quote:
Anodizing increases corrosion resistance and wear resistance, and provides better adhesion for paint primers and glues than does bare metal.


2. In order for galvanic corrosion to take places, there needs to be ions in the coolant. Distilled water has no ions.

3. In my profession I oft work with power plants and with emergency power generators .... like ya car, they have copper rads, iron blocks and aluminum heads .... ever heard of an engine corroding ? Many power plant engines are over 50 years old with no signs of corrosion. That's because the coolant contains a corrosion inhibitor which renders this concern moot.

As to the water cooling issue, I'll be using the same board once my case (Enthoo primo) is released. You can read about various WC concerns starting here:

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1785226/water-co...

Feel free to jump into any of the subject specific water cooling threads linked to that page with any questions.

But in short, here's ya options:

1. One semi-open water loop The CM Eisberg 240L Prestige was used in this build with the Maximus VI Formula ... no, ya don't need the fancy fittings but they sure do look gorgeous :) 

http://rog.asus.com/forum/showthread.php?33364-Maximus-...

2, A water cooling kit.....knowing what case you were using woulkd be a big help. But here's an example

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/16551/ex-wat-217/XSPC...

To add the MoBo cooling, you will need an extra 2 fittings

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/12504/ex-tub-789/XSPC...

Most die hard water coolers will use nothing but distilled water .... but if ya concerned with corrosion, you can add an inhibitor or use a pre-prepared or mixed coolant such as

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/17708/ex-liq-285/Mayh...

As for a full blown water cooling loop, I'd be happy to help you since I'll be using the same board. Again, start with the links here with any specific component questions

http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1785226/water-co...






ok cool thanks man, i was kinda scared that i was gonna buy a pricey/good board and then it would magically melt from the inside or something after 2 years because of corrosion, guess i can put that silly fear to rest now :p  as for the case im gonna use, its this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... fractal design r4. its supposed to be pretty decent and its not super expencive which fits me being a student and all.. besides i dont really need the whole blinking led lights and windows showing of the insides.seeing as im really stretching my wallet as it is id rather have a nice gpu like an gtx 780 :p  but i have another question thats probably gonna sound really dumb but here goes... if i buy/put watercooling in, can it leak? is it possible for me to fuck it up so badly that it just leaks water into my pc?
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a c 243 V Motherboard
September 21, 2013 8:53:54 AM

I have used both .... and I'd strongly suggest ya look at the Corsair 500R as an alternative.

Fractal R4 - 8.65 rating - $110
http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=co...

Corsair 500R - 9.25 rating - $120 (every other week on newegg, you can get this thing between $75 and $90) .... also if buying a Corsair PSU, even today you get an extra $20 discount .... so not only do ya get a much better case, (I prefer the black color) but cheaper.
http://archive.benchmarkreviews.com/index.php?option=co...

Anything can leak if ya forget to tighten something. That's why ya start up with only the pump connected to the PSU and wet test for cupla hours first....dozens of youtube videos showing steps.

The 780 has a $150 price premium.... to my mind not worth it. The MSI N770 has been my GFX card of choice of late. However have ya seen the Asus Poseidon ? It was shown at Comdex with the Formula and is supposed to be released this month.

http://www.tomshardware.com/news/Asus-ROG-GTX-770-Posei...
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