Corsair H80 - uneven contact and loose back plate.

ghramsey

Honorable
Sep 28, 2013
4
0
10,510
Hey all. I got a Core 2 Quad Q6700 (95W TDP) for ($40) a few weeks ago, but the cooler I was using for the Core 2 Duo E6550 (65W TDP) I had wasn't cutting it. So I saw an ad for the Corsair H80 (factory refurbished) for $39 and found is has good reviews and bought one.

I'm having some problems though:

1) The backplate that goes behind the CPU is loose even when the screw in studs are tightened completely and they wobble about. The backplate is a universal type which can be made larger or smaller for different sockets. The threaded sleeves which go through the board slide in slots in the plate. There are washers of some kind holding the sleeves onto the plate and the move a little which is where the movement is coming from. The threaded studs don't stop the movement even when tightened all the way.

In spite of this I was still able to mount the block so I figured it was OK and went on. I tightened down the screws per the instruction in an X pattern. It seems OK and the screws are as tight as they can get without stripping the screw heads.

2) The copper block isn't making fully even contact on the top of the CPU.
I noticed the cores seem to be uneven in their temps from 60c down to 52c which seems a bit extreme. (This is using the CPUID HW Monitor program.) Each core seems to be about 1 degree lower, but the middle two have a 2 degree difference.

I checked the contact and found that only about 1/4 of the TIM that came with the unit was even partially melted and the rest was virtually undisturbed and looked new though it had been on the CPU for about an hour by then. I wiped off the stock TIM and applied some paste I got from Fry's and tried again. I also set some better fans in the case to improve airflow. Made a small difference, but still uneven temperatures showing in CPUID HW monitor and SpeedFan.

I swapped out my case since the temperatures were high within as well so I figured it might be part of the problem. It was an Alienware "Predator" case I got secondhand and didn't have all the fan brackets so I can't mount them. It was too hot inside anyway so I got a different case.

I swapped to an Antec case that has two front 120mm fans, a top fan >120mm(160 or 180mm?), and the fan from the H80. Also the PS goes on the bottom. The HDD is now at 34c max where it was idling at 45 and topping 50c before. The GPU is also cooler idling at 52c where before it was up to 65c at idle.

But the CPU is still showing uneven temperatures though they're a little lower.
It's down to 38c for core0, core1 30c, core2 35c, core3 29c.
Those are obviously quite extreme temperatures within the CPU.

What's strange is the CPUID HW monitor program shows different temps at the same time:
core0 49c, core1 40c,core2 46c,core3, 39c

What's up with that and which program is correct?
Am I getting dodgy readings from one or both?

I did send a question to corsair about the loose backplate of the H80 and have yet to hear from them.

So what do you think? Is the backplate and screws being wobbly the reason the block isn't evenly contacting the CPU? Is there anything I can do?

The idle temperatures seem OK, but what's alarming is the CPU is getting up to 70c or 80c when I play game or even when I was watching a short video clip. So that cooler is doing fine at idle but not working so well under load.


Henry Ramsey
 
Solution
I had a Q6600 and a H80. As I recall it worked very well. I also swapped out the fans when it was new. I ran CoolerMaster SI2's, they were nearly silent. 3.2 GHz was about the safe limit, at that OC the CPU was starting to make a lot of heat. Actually... I typically ran it at 3.0 GHz.

Anyway it fit very well. The studs slid into the motherboard a bit and I slowly tightened it down in a criss cross pattern. I also didn't use the sticky foam, as I didn't want the backing plate permanently stuck to the motherboard; since I planned to use that cooler on a future build. Check the studs are for sure in the 775 hole, if one isn't the unit will still tighten down. My core temps were within 5 or so degrees of each other.

And the TDP of the...

wdmfiber

Honorable
Dec 7, 2012
810
0
11,160
I had a Q6600 and a H80. As I recall it worked very well. I also swapped out the fans when it was new. I ran CoolerMaster SI2's, they were nearly silent. 3.2 GHz was about the safe limit, at that OC the CPU was starting to make a lot of heat. Actually... I typically ran it at 3.0 GHz.

Anyway it fit very well. The studs slid into the motherboard a bit and I slowly tightened it down in a criss cross pattern. I also didn't use the sticky foam, as I didn't want the backing plate permanently stuck to the motherboard; since I planned to use that cooler on a future build. Check the studs are for sure in the 775 hole, if one isn't the unit will still tighten down. My core temps were within 5 or so degrees of each other.

And the TDP of the 6700 is 105 watts(same as Q6600).

I've been re-reading your post, trying to think... and editing this. After assembly the studs are hard pressed in the plastic backing plate and that as a whole unit sits on the back of the motherboard.
__________________
Ag, frig. My error.
I had an H70, it's different than the 80.
Anyone else have an idea?
 
Solution

ghramsey

Honorable
Sep 28, 2013
4
0
10,510
Thanks for responding. I have a video clip 30 sec or so showing how much movement the screws make as I touch them and the back plate too. Is there a way to upload that here or do I need to use some other way? Seeing is easier to do that describing I think.

The plate in this kit is a universal type where the studs can be moved in slots to accommodate AMD or Intel CPUs. There was no sticky tape or foam at all. I had to align the studs and put in the screws before putting it in the case or the plate would have dropped off.

The threaded studs on the plate are molded along with a nut into some plastic material. The nuts are held in place to the plate by a washer which lets the whole pieces slide along slots in the plate. This is where the movement is happening. The washers aren't tightly holding the studs, but the washer slips back and forth. In this case up and down against the back of the mainboard. I tried pushing down on the screws and the back of the plate to see if they'd stay tight with the right pressure and no dice. Still loose as can be. They do seem to be tight when the block in put on, but I do notice that the thumb screws seem to be ending up slightly angled not straight like they should be. This accounts for the contact issue. The stud moves slightly and lets the block lose contact.

Did Intel make different TDP Q6700? The website www.cpu-world.com shows the Q6700 to be 95W.
http://www.cpu-world.com/CPUs/Core_2/Intel-Core%202%20Quad%20Q6700%20HH80562PH0678MK%20%28BX80562Q6700%29.html

What's strange is the gigabyte CPU compatibility list for the G41M-ES2L board shows this:
Intel Core™ 2 Quad Q6700 2.66GHz 8MB Kentsfield 65nm G0 95W 1066 F1
So I've been under the impression that that is what I have.
I see from Intel's site that the Q6700 is a TDP 105W chip so I guess that's why it runs so hot.
 

wdmfiber

Honorable
Dec 7, 2012
810
0
11,160

ghramsey

Honorable
Sep 28, 2013
4
0
10,510
Yeah, I'll go with Intel's specs from now on but I'm confused why Gigabyte also had it wrong. Oh well. No telling.
That's what I wondered if there were more that one Q6700 type made. Anyway...

Thanks for the youtube idea. I'll search through and see if anyone else has the same issue. If not I'll consider posting my own video. I need to make it compressed though. The 30 second clips are over 10MB each uncompressed.
I tried using virtualdub to compress them but my computer is lacking a codec to play back the compressed AVI files.
I'll work on this soon. I really think you're right a video will help if I don't find a similar video already.

I have also uncovered another issue with the unit while looking at the youtube videos which is not really significant,
but is worth noting: The hoses to the radiator are swapped at the block that goes on the CPU.
The one attached on the right side of the block crisscrosses to the left of the radiator and vice versa.
I'm really thinking of returning this H80 as defective. Maybe being refurbished they're also rebuilt to inferior quality too.
Perhaps the CPU block is twisted or maybe it's not flat too accounting for the uneven cooling.
If I take it off again I'm going to put a square on it and see if the copper plate is flat.


*edit* I found a few videos for corsair H80 and H100 with the exact issue I have with the loose backplate.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5JeFHtQQoCE The solution seems to be a washer to bridge the excess space. I'll see if my local ACE has a few or Lowes if necessary.
*end edit*
 

ghramsey

Honorable
Sep 28, 2013
4
0
10,510
I tried the washer idea but the washers I got were too thick and actually stopped the block from making any contact with the CPU even with me pushing on top. :( I didn't actually find this out at first until I powered on and went into the BIOS hardware monitor and found the CPU at 90c and rising to about 110c before eventually it hit thermal trip and shut off. I'm glad it has that feature or I might have fried the CPU.

I went back to loose screws as before. I also discovered that in my attempt to tighten them down last night I actually bent one slightly. I was able to straighten it back luckily.

I made sure to move the block around on top of the CPU before tightening it down this time. I could feel it making contact this time though still only about 50-60% over all when I checked the bottom.

Temps are back to between 40c on Core0 to 32c for Core 3 at idle.
Seems to be staying pretty cool now even in World of Tanks it's only getting to 50c which is fine now I think.
I shall have to try a burn-in program to be sure though. I may have even got it to the right place that the issue is solved.