CPU temp after water cooling

Baffels

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Oct 4, 2013
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Hey all,

First post here, need a little help. I recently installed a water cooling loop because my CPU fan was garbage and it sounded like a good project.

Unfortunately, my CPU temp is even higher! Idle its 110 F (43 C). Is this normal for a water loop? This is my first one, so im a little unsure what to expect. Thanks!
 
Solution
Sometimes water cooling loops need time to settle. This allows the trapped air to settle. Less bubbles, better water cooling block contact better performance. This is especially true if you use a sealed all in one like the corsair H series. If you shake them you can hear the water slosh around.

If you build a custom loop you'll see the bubbles start to settle in the reservoir and eventually disappear altogether.

Otherwise you may need to re-seat your CPU water block. It can be tricky to get those seated right.
Sometimes water cooling loops need time to settle. This allows the trapped air to settle. Less bubbles, better water cooling block contact better performance. This is especially true if you use a sealed all in one like the corsair H series. If you shake them you can hear the water slosh around.

If you build a custom loop you'll see the bubbles start to settle in the reservoir and eventually disappear altogether.

Otherwise you may need to re-seat your CPU water block. It can be tricky to get those seated right.
 
Solution

Baffels

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Oct 4, 2013
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10,510
Ya, ive been stress testing the CPU and its getting up to 58 C while stressed. Im not positive, but thats high, yes? As well... a couple times I started the system is froze up when booting into windows. The fans/pump were still running, but everything else froze up.

Also, dumb question. Should my radiator fans be pushing air through the radiator or pulling?
 

wtalk2

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May 29, 2013
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Depending on your CPU 58 C may or may not be high under load. If you have a Intel CPU 58 C is pretty good but if your are running AMD that's high. I suggest you listen to PsyKhiqZero and let the loop settle for a while and then report back to us later.
 

Lutfij

Titan
Moderator
Baffles - Welcome to Tomshardware and to the world of watercooling. Would you please include your system specs including watercooling gear to help us help you :) Try to include the orientation of your case fans and the radiator placement. A pic would be better if at all possible.
 

Baffels

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Oct 4, 2013
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Lets see, im running:

Gigabyte 990-FX UD3 (Bios updated to latest)
AMD FX-8120 Eight Core
Radeon 7870 (MSI Twin Frozr)

This is my cooling loop, Im only cooling the CPU right now as I cant afford the GPU block right now.

MagiCool Black Butterfly CPU Liquid Cooling Copper Block
Phobya DC12-400 12V Water Cooling Pump
XSPC EX240 Dual 120mm Low Profile Split Fin Radiator
Alphacool Cape Corp Coolplex Pro 10 LT - 100mm
With a bit o' silver in the res

Heres a pic. The loop goes Pump - res - cpu - radiator- pump.
The radiator fans are pulling into the case right now.



I have a kink in the line (where the ribbon is tied, ghetto I know), so Im going to be doing this over again, so any suggestions let me know.
 
Where you have the green rectangle to the left of the CPU looks to be a HUGE air bubble. Also your res looks low on fluid which could explain air bubble. If i'm right these could explain your temps. Also try reseating the cpu block. the mount yours uses looks very easy to get wrong.
 

Lutfij

Titan
Moderator
Seems I have a brother in arms with watercooling as well :)
...but lets try and clear up some of your problems, shall we ?

1| Temps,
IDLE - 43 deg C
LOAD -58 deg C

Are those temps with an overclock or at stock clocks? What are your respective voltages if you've(or not) overclocked the processor?

2| Alot of the AMD processors run at those temps, however I see those temps as normal for the situation you've left your system in. Reason?
a| You have way too long of tubing runs going on for your loop. You could've had a good amount of tubing leftover for a few maintenance runs there.
b| The butterfly block isn't that good of a performer in terms of performance waterblocks
c| Although you haven't posted specs on your fans, they look like cougar fans? They are in pull, which means, you're dumping that hot cpu air inside your case and recycling part of that heat. How are you coping with the exhaust inside that case? The EX is also a semi high FPI rad which means you'd need good static pressure fans to get air through those fins thus see some drop in temps. Speaking of temps...
d| What are your ambient temps? In watercooling you can't reach sub-ambient temps with conventional means so practically speaking, you're temps will be reflected upon via the ambient air temps. The cooler the ambient temps the more heat your rad can cool.

If you're looking towards making changes, here are my suggestions:
1| Clean up that tubing run and shorten it all out to the length that is needed instead of snaking around your case. While you're at it, try relocating the pump to a better position instead of the absolute bottom of the case. This would mean to plan out the layout of your loop properly.

2| Make sure your airflow is sorted out with the case in taking cool air from the front and bottom while exhausting the hot air from rad out the back or top. Mind you the way you place the rads around the exhaust points will also reflect your temps. I have mine hung off the back and I see great temps. I previously had the rads internally mounted on the roof, which I later found out causes my rad to recycle its hot air and thus translate to hotter temps.

3| If they're not, getting fans that are spec'd for radiators like:
Bitfenix Pro's
Scythe GT AP15/45's
Noctua NF F's
Silverstone AP's
Corsair SP's
Noisblocker Eloop's
(or any fans that have good static pressure)

would give you better temps.

4| Make sure your mounting to the CPU IHS is proper. You can tell by applying TIM on your block and apply pressure with the mounting screws as if you were installing the block. Remove the block and note the spread of the TIM and if there are any bubbles between the TIM.

Tip on applying the proper amount of pressure is to turn the screws diagonally opposite each other.
a| Top right, lower left
then
b|Top left, lower right

and continue doing this until the screws present resistance.

5| Now that we're on the subject of TIM's, which one do you use and how did you apply it to your block?

6| Try getting a block like the Raystorm and you should see a few deg drop. But getting a new block is warranted when you've tried all of the above.

7| lastly an inspiration to how you can come out of this situation :)
IMG_0396-1.jpg

^ courtesy of AMS build log in my sig

Hope these help.
:)
* don't forget to tidy up those cables to help with your airflow.
 

Baffels

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Oct 4, 2013
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First off, thank you guys for the great suggestions. I took my rig apart today and remade the entire loop. I added two fans to the radiator (two inside, two out) and now have the inside fans pushing and the outside pulling. I shortened the tubes as short as they can go. I remounted the CPU block and ensured no bubbles were present. I believe I used a little to much thermal paste last time.

Everything is well so far. I sit at about 26-28 C idle and maxed out at 48 C running 3d Mark 11 as well as Prime95 (not at the same time of course) for about 10 minutes.

Is Prime95 the best way to stress test my CPU?
 

Lutfij

Titan
Moderator
You can use IBT (Intel Burn Test), its good but in reality, you'll never touch those levels, even gaming on BF3 won't get you that close.

Depending on your TIM, you'll have varying burn-in times so you should be seeing some favorable temps after a while of setup. I'm glad you got your temps sorted out. Do a once over on your entire loop and be wary of leaks, noise and ofc - the temps.

:)
 

Phennig1977

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Nov 26, 2013
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I got an average temp of 39°C (standard use, office, videos) without watercooling, only simple fans.
Which CPU and GPU do you got?

 

Phennig1977

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Nov 26, 2013
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10,510
oh i see your post, i got i5 2500k and GeForce GTX 560. I will show you my case and construction when I got picture of those. I am just here by accident, sorry for my noobishness :D
and about 27° C in IDLE mode.
Load about 53° C if I have given the computer a cool phase to get down to about 30° C before running "load" application else sometimes up to about 70° but mainly stays around 60° C.
 

Lutfij

Titan
Moderator
Use an image hosting site like Photobucket/imageshack/imgur. In order for you to use their services you'd need to register with them first :) and upload the pictures/media to their server/site. Once done you can post a link here.

If you'd like you can add tags before and after your link so that the images pop up for us to see instead of clicking any links like;

[ img ]yourlinkhere [ /img ] (minus allthe spaces in between the provided line).
 

Phennig1977

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Nov 26, 2013
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Thank you for your answer. I have posted a link to the pictures. Just before your answer I had signed up there just to be able now to show you. Next time when I got time I will post also the temps under load.
 

Phennig1977

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Nov 26, 2013
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10,510


I already posted that I am not using watercooling. I saw the posted temp of Baffels and was wondering why so high compared to mine cause I am not using watercooling.

Here the link you missed:
http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-1826004/cpu-temp-water-cooling.html#12039769
 

Phennig1977

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Nov 26, 2013
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I have added my "load" results. I do not know if (Star Trek Online) is compareable with 3D mark 11 or Prime 95.

I hope it was ok to post my stuff on this watercooling topic. I like to compare different solutions.

But now I would like to know the results of the same computer like mine with a watercooling solution :D
 
Baffels initial temps are so high because his loop had issues. When he fixed it, her reported max temps of 48c compared to your 68c temps. 20c is nothing to laugh at.

While no one can say for sure what your temps would be like with a liquid cooler. I can tell you that my i7 2700k @ 4.5 Ghz idles at 28c and maxes around 60. This is with a corsair h110 and a silent fan profile.

If all you wanted to do is lower your temps a bit you should replace the stock intel heatsink with just about anything else. Also if your GPU uses a standard heatsink and fan, You should have the side fan blow air into the case so the GPU can have fresh air to exhaust out.