Overclocking gone wrong

Setting Sun · Oct 10, 2013

I had my i7 4770k OC'd to 4.5 Ghz @ 1.248V. It went through 20 runs of intel burn test hitting 85c as the highest recorded temp on the "very high" stress level of IBT. Everything seemed stable but someone told me the temps are too high and so I tried lowering the clock to 4.4 @ 1.2v. As soon as I exited bios I got insane screen artifacts, so many white lines I can't see anything hardly.

Every time I turn on the PC it does this now. It will NOT boot into windows 7. I don't know what to do plz help

gsxrme · Oct 10, 2013

What board are you using? Sounds like your Motherboard just took a crap? Are you value overclocking with a value board?

Setting Sun · Oct 10, 2013

gsxrme :

It's an asus Maximus vi hero.

And like I was saying I had it overclocked to 4.5ghz @ 1.248v and I even played planetside 2 for a couple hours and everything was smooth and stable. As soon as I went into the bios and changed the multiplier down to 44 from 45, and put the vcore from 1.248 to 1.200, that's when everything went to shit.

Maybe I should've just kept it at 4.5 ....

gsxrme · Oct 10, 2013

I also don't agree with Prime95 for more than 4 passes. I then use SuperPI to make sure for no errors and then use nothing but game benchmarks looping to make sure its stable. Prime95 makes an environment for the CPU that is unrealistic in real all time use.

My guess is you baked your motherboard and something around the CPU has become de-sawered from the motherboard because of the high heat.

Please use proper cooling on the CPU and make sure the board has air flow. Get on the RMA

Rustyy117 · Oct 10, 2013

gsxrme :

What?!

Bit of a strange assumption.

@OP have you tried clearing the CMOS? I would try that and then re-enter your previous OC settings.

Setting Sun · Oct 10, 2013

gsxrme :

Like I said I was using intel burn test not prime 95... And the temperatures while gaming never exceeded 45c on the CPU nor the motherboard so how it got baked I don't understand

Setting Sun · Oct 10, 2013

Rustyy117 :

gsxrme :

What?!

Bit of a strange assumption.

@OP have you tried clearing the CMOS? I would try that and then re-enter your previous OC settings.

How do I clear the CMOS?

Rustyy117 · Oct 10, 2013

You may have a Clear CMOS button on your motherboard (could be located at the rear of the board). If your motherboard doesn't then you can use jumpers to reset, remove the battery or do it from within the BIOS (if you can still access it).
Have a look here: http://pcsupport.about.com/od/fixtheproblem/tp/clearcmos.htm

Rustyy117 · Oct 10, 2013

u_gonna_squeal_b4_we_cookya :

Have a gander here: http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/answers/id-1833830/overclock-stable.html

Setting Sun · Oct 10, 2013

u_gonna_squeal_b4_we_cookya :

After gaming for awhile the temps were like 44c. 29-33 idle temps. I tried resetting everything in bios back to default. It still will not boot windows. Heavy white lines still cover the screen. I may have bricked my MoBo. Gtx 780 GPU

Setting Sun · Oct 10, 2013

Rustyy117 :

I'm so stressed out right now man it took me so long to build this pc and so much money and it seemed like it was all coming together.

What should I do

Setting Sun · Oct 10, 2013

u_gonna_squeal_b4_we_cookya :

Rustyy117 :

85c is a bit high for a custom liquid cooled system. He made no mention of which GPU is in use or if he ever tried to run the CPU at the stock clock speed again. He should take the other poster's advice and clear the CMOS and not touch voltages on anything if trying to OC again. From what it sounds like, he i using the HD Graphics GPU and it either got damaged from the unnecessary stress testing or playing with the voltages may have caused it to become unstable.

I'm pretty sure I was using my GPU not the integrated graphics. I was getting full frames on planetside 2 with everything on ultra. It is watercooled but maybe I just have a hot chip? Or bad chip

Rustyy117 · Oct 10, 2013

Setting Sun :

Did you actually clear the CMOS?

Remove the battery (turn the power off first obviously) and leave the battery out for 30 minutes, then re-install the battery and go from there.

Setting Sun · Oct 10, 2013

Rustyy117 :

Setting Sun :

Did you actually clear the CMOS?

Remove the battery (turn the power off first obviously) and leave the battery out for 30 minutes, then re-install the battery and go from there.

I'm attempting it now. Leaving the battery out. Lets say this does work, do I even try to overclock again lol? And if so do I try to get my 4.5 back?

Setting Sun · Oct 10, 2013

u_gonna_squeal_b4_we_cookya :

I have a gtx 780. And I also have no idea what a pci lock is, but if you remember me from the other day I'm the guy that had issues with the bent pcb on my GPU ? Perhaps this is my GPU issue and not the MoBo . But then again windows isn't booting so not sure how its the GPU

Rustyy117 · Oct 10, 2013

Setting Sun :

Rustyy117 :

I'm attempting it now. Leaving the battery out. Lets say this does work, do I even try to overclock again lol? And if so do I try to get my 4.5 back?

No, leave it at stock and read up, have a look at some guides, it seems like your not too sure on what to do when it comes to overclocking (which is fine, it's just best to gain some knowledge first).

Setting Sun · Oct 10, 2013

Rustyy117 :

Setting Sun :

No, leave it at stock and read up, have a look at some guides, it seems like your not too sure on what to do when it comes to overclocking (which is fine, it's just best to gain some knowledge first).

Yeah people make it out to he so easy .. Linus tech tips said to set multiplier to 46, vcore 1.2 then work the voltage down from there pretty much

Setting Sun · Oct 10, 2013

u_gonna_squeal_b4_we_cookya :

Setting Sun :

The PCI-e controller in the CPU is potentially causing the GPU to display artifacts.

The SATA controller in the CPU is probably what is preventing you from booting.

If I had to guess, I would say your CPU is partially fried.

When OC'ing, did you start out in small increments, for example raise the clock by 100-200 MHz then test. Then raise by 100 Mhz then test... not raise it straight up to 4.5 GHz then pray it works?

I started at 4.4 @ 1.2v and had rather good temps and stability. I changed the multiplier to 4.5 and raised the voltage until I could boot and run intel burn test without crashing . Wouldn't my cpu temps have been super high if I was frying it ?

Rustyy117 · Oct 10, 2013

u_gonna_squeal_b4_we_cookya :

Setting Sun :

The PCI-e controller in the CPU is potentially causing the GPU to display artifacts.

The SATA controller in the CPU is probably what is preventing you from booting.

If I had to guess, I would say your CPU is partially fried.

When OC'ing, did you start out in small increments, for example raise the clock by 100-200 MHz then test. Then raise by 100 Mhz then test... not raise it straight up to 4.5 GHz then pray it works?

I don't think he's fried anything to be honest, yeah 85C is pretty warm but it's not THAT hot, if the CPU was in serious danger the PC would have shut down anyway or the CPU would throttle back its frequency and voltage.
I'd be very surprised if he's damaged anything by overclocking.

Setting Sun · Oct 10, 2013

Rustyy117 :

u_gonna_squeal_b4_we_cookya :

I don't think he's fried anything to be honest, yeah 85C is pretty warm but it's not THAT hot, if the CPU was in serious danger the PC would have shut down anyway or the CPU would throttle back its frequency and voltage.
I'd be very surprised if he's damaged anything by overclocking.

Well I'm pretty sure I reset the CMOS... And no positive results. Same thing. I'm lost here

Setting Sun · Oct 10, 2013

u_gonna_squeal_b4_we_cookya :

Setting Sun :

According to your other post, the temps were pretty high for a custom liquid cooled system. You were getting 85c. The max temp before the PC shuts off is 105c. The max temp allowed at the heat spreader is ~73c. http://ark.intel.com/products/75123/ Some people get better temps than that on air during a burn test.

So what do you suggest I do from here?

Y0GI · Oct 10, 2013

Setting Sun :

Can you access the BIOS? If yes, go in and select F1 for help and note which F key is to "Load Optimized Defaults" Press that key to load optimized defaults and then press the F key for "Save and Exit" Restart the computer and see if the problem has been fixed.

If it is not fixed, shut down the computer and remove your graphics card. Restart the computer and go into the BIOS. Find the setting for default graphics and select Integrated Graphics. It may be abbreviated "IGP" or something like that. Again, save settings and exit. Restart the computer and see if it works.

Good luck!

Yogi

Setting Sun · Oct 10, 2013

Y0GI :

Setting Sun :

Can you access the BIOS? If yes, go in and select F1 for help and note which F key is to "Load Optimized Defaults" Press that key to load optimized defaults and then press the F key for "Save and Exit" Restart the computer and see if the problem has been fixed.

If it is not fixed, shut down the computer and remove your graphics card. Restart the computer and go into the BIOS. Find the setting for default graphics and select Integrated Graphics. It may be abbreviated "IGP" or something like that. Again, save settings and exit. Restart the computer and see if it works.

Good luck!

Yogi

It did go into bios, but still artifacts in screen. Cleared CMOS and reset to defaults and no solution.

Unplugged GPU, on board graphics worked just dandy. Windows booted, no artifacts. Plugged GPU back in, same issue as before.

So I guess my 700$ graphics card is toast... What the heck do I do. Didn't taking the stock cooler and putting a block on my card void the warranty ?

Setting Sun · Oct 10, 2013

u_gonna_squeal_b4_we_cookya :

Setting Sun :

That is a good sign that you are booting into Windows at least. And also that your CPU is not the issue. I guess the temps and overclock was not too much for it.

I remember that you had a flexed PCB on your liquid cooled GPU and you said you ordered a backplate for it. And in the meantime you put a piece of wood on the card, correct? It took me a while to remember that post. If I would have known it was you before I would have suggested your GPU. Before you write the GPU off as a loss, try putting the stock heat sink and fan shroud back on it and see if it works. When the PCB flexes like yours did and then you torture tested it causing the solder to heat up, there is the chance that one or more of your VRAM modules may have lifted off the PCB and lost its connection to the board. It is hard to tell by just looking at them because they are BGA soldered on.

If the stock heatsink doesn't return it to working condition, then you should try to RMA it if it is still under warranty or within the refund date. If a VRAM did separate from the PCB then the backplate will not do anything. It is more of a preventative measure. You can have the VRAM reflowed which is much cheaper than buying a new 780 and then put the backplate on to prevent flexing again.

How and where would I get the VRAM reflowed?

Ill try putting the stock heat sink back on when I get home from work and tell you the results. I probably never should've put a Waterblock on the thing. Seems so risky for such a high end card.

Setting Sun · Oct 11, 2013

u_gonna_squeal_b4_we_cookya :

Setting Sun :

Worry about it if the GPU doesn't work when replacing the stock heatsink.

Don't try it yourself. There are tons of videos out there about a DIY reflow using a high temp heat gun which are usually used for stripping paint or shrink wrapping if it has a low setting. Don't try it. Even if you are lucky enough to not have cooked the GPU until it literally popcorns it is still a temporary fix. The only permanent fix is to completely remove the VRAM module, use a template to form new solder balls and then use flux and a reflow station to properly join it back to the PCB at the exact temp for the exact amount of time. Find someone who has a legit reflow station specifically designed for BGA soldering. Google BGA repair, BGA reflow or BGA rework. Usually professional electronics repair shops have them. Check your local Craigslist or yellow pages. There might even be some places online where you can send them the GPU and have them reflow it then send it back. I have never had someone do this so I do not know of any places.

About liquid cooling it and overclocking it: if you are playing in a normal resolution like 1080p, on one monitor and even if it is a 144 Hz refresh rate, the GTX 780 at stock clock speed with the factory heatsink should run any game with high FPS and maxed out detail. There really is no reason at the moment to overclock this card to such an extreme. If it was an old GPU that is struggling to keep up with new mid-range GPUs then you might need some extreme liquid overclocking to bring it up to speed so that it can handle new games. The GTX 780 won't need anything like this for at least the next 2 or 3 years, maybe longer.

I decided I'm going to leave my GPU out of the water cooling loop period. Sticking with stock. This should also give me some leeway since my CPU will be in the loop by itself.

When replacing the stock GPU heat sink, do I have to re-apply tim? Or do I just keep the dried up white stock crap on there?

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