Computer wont start up, CPU fan wont start up

Emerick Larkin

Honorable
Oct 18, 2013
9
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10,510
About a week ago I started noticing a burning smell in my room and quickly deduced that it was coming from my PC so I shut it off for the night. The next day I took out all of the components, cleaned them, cleaned the fans and the motherboard and inspected everything for signs of burning. The only thing I noticed was a stronger smell around the PSU. I re-assembled, booted (with the side panel still off) and everything was fine. The burning smell started up within 3 or 5 minutes and at this point I was already purchasing a new PSU off tigerdirect. Within seconds after finalizing the purchase, poof, a pop sound came from the PSU and a small column of electrical smelling smoke came out from the PSU.

Fast forward three days. I received the new PSU, hooked it all up. The motherboard green light comes on. I tried then tried to boot. No keyboard or mouse lights come on. The GPU fan sounds like it is spinning a little faster than usual but this may be paranoid bias. No image being transmitted to the monitor. Probably most importantly, I noticed the CPU fan spin for about 2 seconds weakly and then stop all together.

I googled the issue a little and come across this advice:

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1) Disconnect the power cord from the back of the computer & open up the case.

2) Wear an anti-static bacnd or at very least discharge your static by touching a metal surface

3) Disconnect the main 20pin ATX power connector from the motherboard & the square 4pin ATX2 power connector

4) Remove any PCI cards you have & disconnect ALL drive cabling from the MOTHERBOARD. Also disconnect any internal USB fly leads from the motherboard.

5) You should now have ONLY the cpu+heatsink/fan, memory & video card installed. Locate the round silver battery in the bottom right corner of the board. Just below it, you'll see a plastic jumper cap. This cap should be covering 2 pins (pins 1 + 2) with pin 3 bare. It will be marked JP1. Move the jumper to cover pins 2-3 instead. Leave in this position for about 30 seconds, then return the jumper to its original position (pins 1-2).

6) Reconnect the square 4pin ATX2 power connector & the main 20 pin ATX power connector. Make sure that the case speaker or buzzer is connected also.

7) Make sure the only external devices connected are the keyboard/mouse & monitor. Reconnect the power lead & power on the system

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I followed these directions and tried to repower the system. Upon trying this I notice a slight change in behavior of the PSU fan. It now rotates ~30 degrees every quarter second or so, spastically, for about 3-5 seconds and then stops all together.

I have no idea what to do as I really depend on this computer heavily for my senior classes at university. I thought replacing the PSU was going to be a fix and maybe it would have been but I am guessing that the PSU frying out may have overloaded and fried some aspect of the motherboard, the CPU itself or even the GPU. I am clueless as to what to do further.

Computer was built ~6 years ago. Everything is from the original build except for added RAM (about 1 year ago)

Computer specs:

Motherboard: M4A79XTD EVO
CPU: AMD Phenom II X4 955 Black Edition
GPU: ASUS Radeon HD 5770
RAM: G-skill ripjaw series (3 sticks combined 10 GB)
PSU that fried: OCZ StealthXStream OCZ700SXS 700W
new PSU: Cooler Master eXtreme Power Plus 550-Watt ATX

My strongest suspicion is that the CPU got fried. Should I do further tests to confirm this before I go ahead and get a replacement. Is it recommended I just get a new mobo, cpu and gpu altogether (this would suck) ? I would like to be able to game again if any of these are the case I would also greatly appreciate any suggestions on current GPUs, mobos and cpus that have a lot of bang for their buck!

Thank you so much for taking your time to help me out. :)
 
Solution
You can do a visual. Look for caps that amy be swollen and or discolored. Look for discolored circuits on both sides of the board, In general look for anything that doesn't look right. Having said that, if the Northbridge or South Bridge gets wrecked, there is no real way to tell as far as I know, just that the board doesn't work. The motherboard is certainly cheaper than the CPU.
Hi. I all likelyhood and at the very least the MOBO is fried and the CPU is not beyond reason. As far as using the jumer as you did, it is much simpler to just unplug the computer, remove the silver CMOS battery and wait about 15 secs or so, replace the Battery and plug the computer back in. I did see any mention about having moved the jumper back to pins 1 & 2.
 
You can do a visual. Look for caps that amy be swollen and or discolored. Look for discolored circuits on both sides of the board, In general look for anything that doesn't look right. Having said that, if the Northbridge or South Bridge gets wrecked, there is no real way to tell as far as I know, just that the board doesn't work. The motherboard is certainly cheaper than the CPU.
 
Solution

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