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Need help from somoene who knows about under volting AMD A10 Trinity 4600m CPU that knows what they are talking about....

First let me apologize if this is under a different title already somewhere in the forum but I could not find any help or already solved cases similar to mine after 4 hours of searching.

I have an HP Envy M6 that has the Trinity AMD A10 4600m CPU and I am very sad to say that no matter what I do it still runs at 200 - 230'F at 30% - 80% CPU usage. I took the entire laptop apart all the way down to the motherboard, cleaned off all the factory TIM, every speck of dust (there wasn't barely any), took the junk thermal pad off the GPU, replaced the thermal pad with a 1/4 of the size new one along with a copper shim.

I lapped the CPU, shim, and the entire cooling arm using 2000 grit sandpaper and water droplet method making everything 99.9% flat and fit perfect. Lastly I put TIM / MX4 thermal paste down and then properly seated the cooling arm so there were no bubbles. After putting the laptop back together and turning it on, all that work and all it did was drop the temperature down to 190'F at idle!

So after doing research I found this is a common issue with these trinity processors and the only way to pretty much get them to cool down to a normal temperature is to under volt them. I followed a couple You tube videos and gave an AMD program called PSTATE or something similar to that where I kept going back and forth dropping the voltage .005 , then run the laptop at 100% usage with prime 95. the idea is to keep going down with the voltage until the laptop blue screens, write that number down and move onto the next core. After finding the number for each core you’re supposed to minus 2 to be safe, set all four cores to the "almost blue screen" amount minus two and save. Well every time I would do this the laptop blue screens over and over.

Sorry if that was hard to understand but I was wondering if anyone had a better method, or more proven method? Possibly unlock my BIOS and change it in there? I need to figure this out or this laptop won't last long... :( Thanks in advance for any input... Please feel free to send me a message / private message. I will gladly give out my email for more direct help if needed.

Jason
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  1. I think it should be +2, instead of -2, if I am understanding the procedure correctly. You'd want to add a bit of voltage back to stabilize the CPU. The "almost blue screen" level -2 would be "blue screen" level, I would think.

    Casey
  2. cklaubur said:
    I think it should be +2, instead of -2, if I am understanding the procedure correctly. You'd want to add a bit of voltage back to stabilize the CPU. The "almost blue screen" level -2 would be "blue screen" level, I would think.

    Casey


    Yes you are correct! Someone who knows about this!! LOL! Yep you have to keep adding +1 and testing each singular core until the one your working on finding the max for makes the laptop Blue Screen or freeze, then you move onto another core. After you have all the amounts you put them all in at once and poof! But no it doesn't work like that. There has got to be a better way....This is the video I followed- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cK3HTtztg9g Check it out and let me know if I'm doing something wrong when you get a chance. Thanks for any help offered.
  3. I've never actually used the method you are using. However, it just seemed strange that you would get voltage as low as possible without crashing, then lower the voltage more when finished. Doesn't seem like that would stabilize the CPU.

    Casey
  4. cklaubur said:
    I've never actually used the method you are using. However, it just seemed strange that you would get voltage as low as possible without crashing, then lower the voltage more when finished. Doesn't seem like that would stabilize the CPU.

    Casey


    No the idea is to get the voltage on each core as low as possible, then when you set them all, you ADD plus 2 like you said. I just said it wrong. Then you have all the cores on the lowest voltage settings with a massive decrease in the amount of heat (right now I'm at 230'F).
  5. cklaubur said:
    I've never actually used the method you are using. However, it just seemed strange that you would get voltage as low as possible without crashing, then lower the voltage more when finished. Doesn't seem like that would stabilize the CPU.

    Casey


    May I ask what method you have used?
  6. I've done something similar with the I5-3570K in my desktop computer, just through the BIOS instead of a software program in Windows. Same basic process, though. Drop voltage down until the processor is no longer stable, then raise it back up slightly until it is stable again. I've been able to get that I5 down to 1.19V with an overclock to 4.2 GHz.

    Casey
  7. sorry to say you bought a piece of junk... the bios is locked as you say so will have very limited options and unless hp release an unlocked bios theres very little chance of changing anything.
    if your board supports cool and quiet, turn it off. this will increase the systems fanspeed which should give slighlty better thermals.
    if your cpu is unstable at -2 then go to -1 if it still bsods then you have no options to under volt.
    i would have recommended that you email hp if you hadnt invalidated the warranty but they wont even touch it now...
    they may offer you advice but like i said they wont accept it back for an exchange which they would have done if it was in warranty...
    the only other thing i can think ofis using a pin-vice (finger drill) and modify the underside where the fan is. by drilling a few dozen small holes directly under where the fan sits. this will allow the air to be drawn directly into the fan rather than through the ducting and vents... the problem is that some other parts of the board may be reliant on this airflow 2 so if you make a more direct rout you could end up starving other components of much needed air flow.
  8. Best answer
    Thank you to everyone else for your inputs.

    Using PS Check I was able to undervolt the laptop quite a bit to the point where it was running at 81'F at idle use and when I was using prime 95 and had the CPU running at 100% for over half an hour, it never got warmer than 131'F. So that is a great temp to be running at when the laptop is jamming as hard as it will run.

    Another reason the laptop ran much cooler I believe was from the small mod I made to the cooling fan. What I did isn't something I would suggest to anyone who doesn't have a lot of experience in taking apart laptops or small electronics. Since this was not my notebook and the client brought me a new cooling fan for the notebook when he originally dropped it off, I figured I'd give this a try because I wouldn't have nothing to lose accept the small hole I made for a wire to run through.

    I cut the blue wire which is one of the four going to the cooling fan. Doing this makes the cooling fan run at 100% nonstop because now it's running with three wires instead of four. I did this after reading and watching a video so bear with me but from what I read the last three wires, red, which is power, black, which is ground, and brown, is signal telling it when the motherboard is on / off. The blue wire I cut is comparable to the 4th wire on a PWM fan in a desktop case or on a desktop motherboards CPU cooling fan.

    Since I had an extra fan that was not returnable and the one that was in it was perfectly fine, I figured I'd give it a try and see if it worked. The worst that could happen is it wouldn't work and I put the new fan in. The only drawback of having this nonstop high speed running fan of course is killing the battery in no time and I mean a fully charged battery was toast within 45 minutes! But my client uses the laptop 100% of the time connected to the AC adapter so this wasn't a problem and he gave me the go ahead. After seeing it would work while still having the notebook apart, I did a few things to add an ON / OFF switch to the cooling fan.

    Since I wasn't exactly sure where I was going to be able to mount a switch the first thing I did was lengthen the wires on the cooling fans motherboard connector by cutting it in the middle and simply splicing in three twelve inch pieces of similar gauge wire that was a little thicker. Now I had the cooling fan and about 15 inches of wire so I could mount it anywhere I wanted or where it would fit. Yeah I was going to have to splice it again when I figured out where I wanted it to go but that's just something I had to deal with because I had never done this before.

    I decided to put the ON/OFF switch which was just a simple small flip switch that moves back and forth for on and off on the left edge in the back. I made a small half a hole with my Dremel about half an inch further back from the VGA connector on the same edge. I then spliced the power lead and soldered in the switch. This is where I realized I had way more wire then I would have ever needed but hey that's to know for next time, for now I coiled the extra up and twist tied it out of the way packing it in a spot next to the cooling fan where it wouldn't hurt anything.

    I then connected the fan to the board and ran the wire through the hole. I closed up the laptop and checked to see if the laptops case would close with the extra wire coiled up inside along with the other small changes. Since it would and I was able to completely put the entire bottom casing back together, now having everything where it should be with the routed wire out to the connected but not yet mounted switch I turned on the notebook to make sure everything worked like I wanted. It did so I then had to figure out how to mount the small switch and keep the laptop looking nice, but have the switch mounted strongly so it couldn't easily be knocked off.

    I ended up mixing up an extremely pure, thick, 80% steel instead of the normal 50 / 50 (this makes the bond very strong but takes a lot longer to dry and cure) batch of original JB WELD. I'm sure your thinking, why didn't you use the epoxy or plastic kind of JB WELD. Well the reason is because having used all the types I've noticed the original formula works the best. Even better than the so called quick setting kind that's supposed to be the exact same as original but with a stronger curing agent.

    I used large toothpicks that have a flat edge on one side like a "spreader" and put a small bead on the bottom of the switch. Having my spot all picked out and a three foot clamp ready, I gently placed the switch onto the scuffed with 180 grit sandpaper plastic surface and then placed the clamp over the switch on one end and the other edge of the laptop on the other end. The clamp had two pairs of socks over each of the clamping jaws which were not metal and had a cushioned grip; I still put the socks over the jaws not to mark up the plastic.

    Now that I had the clamp holding the switch in its permanent place I added more of the JB WELD rounding the edges where it makes contact with the plastic of the notebook using Q TIPS drenched in rubbing alcohol to clean away any of the JB WELD that ended up in places I didn't want it. After about three hours the JB WELD cures enough so that you can remove the clamp.

    At this point I used the sanding drum on the Dremel to remove an excess or bad looking dried material. I even put some 600 grit sand paper around a nine volt battery and used it as a sort of sanding block to put rounded edges around the switch. After a couple days of letting it sit and cure I used some flat black scratch and dent paint to paint the material black to match the plastic on the notebook case somewhat. Having the fan running all the time like that did drop the temperature quite a bit but the undervolting cured probably 80% of the heat issue. My client was happy though with the fan mod because he plays a lot of games on this laptop and said that he wanted it to run as cool as possible and that’s what I tried to give him.

    When it was all said and done it worked perfect and did not look like something rigged up at all. The customer didn't even notice the switch until after he realized I put it on there and had to look for it. It wasn't something you could just spot and say "oh that's some DIY ghetto ness". So I figured I'd share how it worked out since most other people never do in these forums once they figure out their problems. If anyone has any questions about how I did this feel free to ask. I think I covered most of it in great detail.
  9. couple of pic's of your mods would be cool...
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