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Performance Drops When Replacing Corsair H100i Fans

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  • Overclocking
  • Water Cooling
  • Temperature
  • Internet
  • Cooling
  • Fan
  • Corsair
  • Fan Speed
  • Performance
Last response: in Overclocking
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November 6, 2013 2:02:52 PM

The internet is full of people replacing the fans that come with the H100i and, well all of the Corsair Hydro series water coolers really. So what I'd like to know is how much of a performance drop do you see after doing this, after all the stock fans have an amazing pressure rating of 4mm-H20, none of the quiet fans I've seen have anywhere near that, even the Quiet High pressure fans Corsair sell are only 1.29mm/H20.

More about : performance drops replacing corsair h100i fans

a b K Overclocking
November 6, 2013 11:22:23 PM

hankmarvin said:
The internet is full of people replacing the fans that come with the H100i and, well all of the Corsair Hydro series water coolers really. So what I'd like to know is how much of a performance drop do you see after doing this, after all the stock fans have an amazing pressure rating of 4mm-H20, none of the quiet fans I've seen have anywhere near that, even the Quiet High pressure fans Corsair sell are only 1.29mm/H20.


There is actually a benefit from replacing these fans. You won't run loud fans at 100% for a couple degrees difference but also 50DBa. Noctuas for example are better, so are cougars. But not just any fan, but the ones recommended for Radiators. Although the Corsair ones that are Stock are okay.
Plus, static pressure is only good for Push fans, and higher CFM for pull. (At least that's how it is in my experience)


Only Listing 120mm Fans (NZXT Kraken Support 140mm)
NF-F-12: 2.61 mmH20 (~20DBa Max)
http://www.noctua.at/main.php?show=productview&products...

Akasa: 2.64 mmH20 (Max 16 DBa)
http://www.akasa.com.tw/update.php?tpl=product/product....

Corsair SP120 High Performance 3.1 mmH20 35DBa
http://www.corsair.com/en/cpu-cooling-kits/air-series-f...

Cougar CF-v12HP 2.2 mmH20 18DBa
http://www.cougar-world.com/products/fans/vortex_pwm.ht...

CoolerMaster Excalibur 3.53 mmH20 30DBa
http://www.coolermaster.com/product/Detail/cooling/case...



And if I'm not mistaking, it's 4mm because of 2 fans. 2mmH20 x2=4mmH20.

But you won't be running loud fans at 100% to achieve the cooling unless they're quiet enough. At least that's how I am. Especially at night :lol: 
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November 7, 2013 8:15:58 AM

Wow what a cool answer my friend, lots of lovely info!.

The generic fans shown in that Pink Floyd graph thingy-me-bob aren't the Corsair fans are they?, just bog standard cheapo's right?...I wonder how the Corsair triangle would look, a big old boy I'd guess!.

The first thing is that I was actually intending to run the fans at full all the time, I find fan noise hypnotic and relaxing, and I was led to believe that 4mm/H20 was per fan, I will try to find out.

I have a load of really quiet fans which are Arctic Cooling F12's, I've mailed the company to try and find out the static pressure rating because
all I can find is "they have good static pressure" which is not very helpful when putting a system together or buying components. But I did my not very scientific tissue test last night, I fold a square of toilet tissue up into four and place it on top of the radiator with two different fans underneath, the F12's just sat there occasionally jiggling a bit, and the Stock Corsair ones it blew it straight off, indicating to me at least that you do need high power fans to effectively move air through the radiator grill. If the corsair ones are actually only 2mm/H20 the fans you listed would be a very good option. More specifically the Akasa Apache

Don't get me wrong I'm not opposed to changing the fans or buying new ones all over again, I just want the best performing fans for the job, ideally yes the quieter the better.

I will also be using a shroud mainly to reduce the noise the fans make.

Oh and my fans would be pushing the air not pulling, I might add pull ones though if there's space and it makes a difference to the performance.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
November 7, 2013 10:49:55 AM

The stock fans are most likely to perform better than the F12 fans, but the F12 fans will still do the job. I wouldn't be surprised if the difference is ~5C, but fan reviews and comparisons are all over the place. (There are round-ups which show the Arctic F12 barely beating out the Noctua NF-F12s in terms of decibels and thermal performance.)

On both my Enermax ETS-T40 and Arctic A30 Freezer, the absolute performance of an F12 fan compared to a Corsair SP120 Performance edition is ~3C. I have a Cougar fan, that that operates at 1C less than the Corsair SP120, but has far more desirable acoustics.

If you already have the Arctic F12 fans, go ahead and try them out. Use Prime95 for about an hour, then switch fans, rinse and repeat. Then share with us! For science!
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a b K Overclocking
November 7, 2013 11:10:08 AM

Ok why I pull air rather than push air through my radiator
Well all the radiator filters are designed to be attached to the radiator, thus the fans would need to pull air through the radiator for the filter to work.
I use shrouds on my radiators between the fans and have always placed them in a pull position from the radiator as this setup will also prevent large particles from getting to the fans like hair these types of things tend to shorten the life span of a fan, so placing them in the pull position will extend the life of the expensive fans that where just purchased.









here is one in a push pull config, i do not have any type of filter setup for it yet, but i am considering a single filter per fan setup for the intake fans.
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November 7, 2013 12:35:07 PM

This is how I interpret the other fan choices based purely on numbers:

CoolerMaster Excalibur 3.53 mm H20 30DBa (Reported to be very loud at maximum speeds by the way, if they weren't loud these seem like the best choice)

Corsair SP120 High Performance 3.1 mmH20 35DBa
(the stock fans are only 2 Db louder and you gain an extra 1mm/H2o)

Cougar CF-v12HP 2.2 mmH20 18DBa
(about half the static pressure and noise, so in my simplistic mind that must equal half the performance although I know it can't)

The Noctua work out better at more than half the static pressure at about half the Dd level, if they perform as well then that's great.

The F12's are about equal if not better performance wise according to our friend Calculation, so I will do a comparison between them and the Stock Fans when I get it set up (just waiting for my RAM to arrive)

The Akaska Apache's look to work out at about half the H2O/mm and half the noise.

I know that real world performance is a completely different kettle of fish and testing things out on your own rig is the only real way of knowing, so I will and I will report back here after, but I just wondered if anyone had noted their temperatures before and after they changed over to the quieter fans and if so what was the temperature difference.

Oh and I will be Push/Pulling by the way.
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November 7, 2013 2:58:41 PM

Anyone tried the Delta 120x25mm FFB1212EH High Speed Case Fan's?...
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a b K Overclocking
November 7, 2013 3:27:10 PM

hankmarvin said:
Anyone tried the Delta 120x25mm FFB1212EH High Speed Case Fan's?...


Rated at 56DBa :ouch: 
But 11.3 mmH20 Wow! :bounce: 
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

:lol:  The newegg Reviews :lol: 
Quote:
Use a fan controller and turn down for day-to-day operating. Can be used for hair drying.

Quote:
Don't stick a finger into it.

Quote:
most of the time I have to manually get the fan going for it to start spinning.


Here's Something to take into consideration:

And every 10DBa is twice as loud,so 40 is 4 times as loud as 20 decibels, and 80 is 64 times as loud as 30 DBa.
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November 7, 2013 3:36:20 PM

he he he! I bet that would cool er down though, I just have to put my PC in the next room is all!
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a b K Overclocking
November 7, 2013 3:40:24 PM

Another thing to note, and it was stated. The ratings are wrong, I don't think they run the fans at 100% during rating. Because I have 38DBa fans, and at 75% they are 38DBa. But at 100%, they are ~55DBa. Huge increase in sound. Almost 4 times louder.


Here's an example-I don't own this:
It states 30DBa Max:
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Raijintek/Aidos/

But tested, it hit 50DBa
http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Raijintek/Aidos/7.ht...
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November 7, 2013 4:51:24 PM

bloody hell!, also I just found out that the 4mm/H20 is the lowest the Corsairs will perform, they were originally rated 4-7mm/H20!. I think I will be sticking with the stock fans, at the end of the day Corsair know what they're doing and they were the ones who matched the fans to the radiator in the first place. And the radiator is quite dense, "each fin being 8mm wide and is separated by a mere 1.5mm making the array very dense"

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/corsair_hydro_seri...

Also I think when we talk about the stock fans themselves there are 2 different sets that Corsair sent out with the kits, mine are the square type, not the ones that look like the quiet performance ones they sell now. I don't know whether mine comes from old stock, I suppose they do but I've contacted Corsair about it as obviously I want the best ones on my set up. Any information about these would be good to know if anyone is in the know?.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
November 7, 2013 9:23:13 PM

hankmarvin said:

The F12's are about equal if not better performance wise according to our friend Calculation, so I will do a comparison between them and the Stock Fans when I get it set up (just waiting for my RAM to arrive)


Here are two of the round-ups that show the Arctic F12s on par with the Noctua NF-F12s. In both cases, the lead that the Arctic Fans have on the Noctua fans are ~2C and <5db. They are both within a margin of error, and are narrow enough difference to be considered negligible.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1274407/fans-the-most-comple...

http://www.vortez.net/articles_pages/120mm_and_140mm_fa...

To say that only these two round-ups provide definitive truth would be folly, but the fact that they achieved these results does say something. *Shrugs* just food for thought.
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November 8, 2013 7:34:08 AM

Yep food for thought indeed especially considering the price difference between the Arctic Cooling F12's (£4.40) and the Noctua (£16-£17), you can basically get four ACF12's for one Noctua!.
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a b K Overclocking
November 8, 2013 7:51:20 AM

noctura can get the prices there asking because there is nothing better for preformance to noise level ratio than there fans.
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a c 78 K Overclocking
November 8, 2013 8:10:10 AM

Someone took a glance at the links.
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November 8, 2013 12:17:26 PM

I'm also thinking about making a duct that attaches from the rear exhaust (set as intake) that connects directly to the air intake of the H100i. So the cool air from outside the case is drawn in directly to the cooler and exhausted out the top vents, just gotta figure out how now brown cow.
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November 8, 2013 12:53:06 PM

I would but the Corsair H100i's pipes aren't long enough, plus I like tinkering!
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a b K Overclocking
November 8, 2013 1:09:04 PM

toolmaker_03 said:
look if you really want to get the best kind of air flow through that radiator your best bet is to mount it off the back of your case.

http://www.frozencpu.com/products/10347/ex-rad-179/XSPC...

or off the top like i did



http://www.frozencpu.com/products/9728/koo-195/Koolance...



It's so sexy! :love: 

That's similar to what I did-made another 140mm slot on the top of my case, and placed the Kraken on top :D 
But I didn't raise it up with brackets, I just mounted the fans to the case with silicone padding in between the case and fans :) 
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Best solution

a b K Overclocking
November 8, 2013 1:11:34 PM

hankmarvin said:
I'm also thinking about making a duct that attaches from the rear exhaust (set as intake) that connects directly to the air intake of the H100i. So the cool air from outside the case is drawn in directly to the cooler and exhausted out the top vents, just gotta figure out how now brown cow.


If you are going to invest ~ 100 into the cooler, ~30 for fans and who knows how much for modifying. Why don't you get this 360mm Radiatore Custom Loop kit from XSPC]
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21236/ex-wat-271/XSPC...
:) 
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a b K Overclocking
November 8, 2013 1:14:53 PM

toolmaker_03 said:
noctura can get the prices there asking because there is nothing better for preformance to noise level ratio than there fans.


I have a 140mm noctua on my cablebox right now cooling it :lol: 
I'm testing it at 100% speed for ` week to see if there will be any deficiencies.
(I have the coolest cablebox of them all :lol: )
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a b K Overclocking
November 8, 2013 1:19:49 PM

That is a pretty good idea; I did not start off with using nice stands I tried out different configurations using 3 ½” bay converters, until I found a configuration that I liked.





Then I bought a radiator stand that worked in that radiator orientation, there are stands for every configuration possible.
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November 8, 2013 1:20:46 PM

Jake Wenta said:
hankmarvin said:
I'm also thinking about making a duct that attaches from the rear exhaust (set as intake) that connects directly to the air intake of the H100i. So the cool air from outside the case is drawn in directly to the cooler and exhausted out the top vents, just gotta figure out how now brown cow.


If you are going to invest ~ 100 into the cooler, ~30 for fans and who knows how much for modifying. Why don't you get this 360mm Radiatore Custom Loop kit from XSPC]
http://www.frozencpu.com/products/21236/ex-wat-271/XSPC...
:) 


Because I already have the H100i, I already have the fans from previous builds, and I live in the UK (that shop is in the US). But it looks really good and I would prefer a triple radiator set up as it would fit nicely on my Corsair 800D!, and it looks sexy. BAD JAKE! stop it!
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November 8, 2013 1:22:22 PM

You fellas have mental (good) set ups!
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a b K Overclocking
November 8, 2013 1:24:10 PM

hankmarvin said:

Because I already have the H100i, I already have the fans from previous builds, and I live in the UK (that shop is in the US). But it looks really good and I would prefer a triple radiator set up as it would fit nicely on my Corsair 800D!, and it looks sexy. BAD JAKE! stop it!


I'm sorry :lol: 

toolmaker_03 said:
That is a pretty good idea; I did not start off with using nice stands I tried out different configurations using 3 ½” bay converters, until I found a configuration that I liked.





Then I bought a radiator stand that worked in that radiator orientation, there are stands for every configuration possible.


That's neat, but why the tiny fans? Is it for the mmH20? (Because the small ones get LOUD.

I would take pictures of my rig, but my phones broken :lol: .
Lasted two years :D 
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November 8, 2013 1:27:20 PM

I also have a Lian Li BS-08B PCI Cooler that's sitting around gathering dust I think I might chop that up to create an exhaust to reduce the noise from the fans hitting against the honeycomb vents. Hmmmmm
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a b K Overclocking
November 8, 2013 1:39:44 PM

No, the fans where on sale, and so where the shrouds, the fans cost $2.99 each, and he shrouds where $.99 cents each, and with the $7.99 fan controller, the setup for testing was actually pretty cheap. I got all the radiators for $33.00 each so I got 4. The setup is a little further along now.





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November 8, 2013 1:42:43 PM

Jake you're such a dick!, I'm thinking about returning the H100i and swapping to the XSPC Raystorm now!
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a b K Overclocking
November 8, 2013 1:44:39 PM

hankmarvin said:
Jake you're such a dick!, I'm thinking about returning the H100i and swapping to the XSPC Raystorm now!


Lol what did I do? :??: 
(You'll get much better cooling with the custom kit :) 
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November 8, 2013 1:46:26 PM

Now I've gotta compare all the different kits!
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a b K Overclocking
November 8, 2013 2:02:46 PM

That's a great idea
Recommended Watercooling Kits


The following are common recommendations for entry-level watercooling. Most are aimed at the beginner, but all offer very good to exceptional performance for the price. They include everything you'll need in a single box...just add water. Most, if not all, have the ability to expand into larger, custom loops capable of supporting multiple radiators and the addition of one or more GPU blocks.

See the list of online retailers for availability and pricing.

XSPC Rasa RS/RX 240/360
Older XSPC CPU-only kit utilizing their RS and RX series radiators in 240/360 versions coupled with their X20 750 (750 l/h [12.5 lpm]) bay/pump/res combo. There are also 120 versions, but they utilize the weaker X20 200 (200 l/h [3.33 lpm]) and aren't typically recommended except in very SFF cases. The X20 750 is a decent flowing pump and good for a CPU only loop, or even with a video card block and additional radiator, but once you start to consider multiple video card blocks, you should likely consider a better pump.

These kits are easy to setup and maintain and have used 7/16" ID tubing and fittings out of the box. The Rasa block is a very good performer in terms of CPU blocks, and the RX radiator series is excellent for price and performance. The RS rad series has since been replaced with the EX series rads, but do offer good performance for the price. It should be noted that there are updated versions to these kits that utilize an XSPC bay res combo with either a D5 or DDC pump (for additional cost).
Rasa RX360 (link)

XSPC Raystorm EX/RX 240/360 & EX240/420
The successor to the Rasa kits, the Raystorm kits use the XSPC Raystorm CPU block which currently is one of the best price/peformance/flow blocks on the market. They use the same X20 750 pump as the Rasa kits, but only are available with the EX or RX radiators. Like the Rasa kit upgrades, there are alsoD5 and DDC combo res/pump configurations for these as well (for additional cost).
Raystorm EX280 w/D5 (link)


EK H30 LTX 240/260
The EK LTX kits offer a very good performing LTX water block, Jingway/EK-rebranded pump with mounted cylinder reservoir and EK Coolstream XT rads (240 or 360) which are very good performers.
EK H30 LTX (link)

EK H30 HFX 240/260
The HFX kits utilize the Supreme HF block and the same Jingway/EK-rebrand pump/res components as well as the XTX series Coolstream rads which are EK's top performing rad series.
EK H30 HFX (link)

Swiftech 220/320 Edge
The Edge kits are based on the the Apogee CPU blocks and DDC built-in pump to the MCR radiator/res combo (MCP35x pump w/native PWM). While the Apogee is a bit older, yet still very capable block, the MCP35x is a very solid performing pump. The MCR radiators are on-par with XSPC RS series rads; good performance and decent price.
Swiftech Edge (link)

Swiftech 220/320 Drive
The Swiftech Drive is a CPU block/pump unit that combines an Apogee CPU block and MCP35x pump into a small package combo that is typically sold separately but can also be bundled with an MCR radiator.
Swiftech Apogee Drive (link)

Swiftech 220/320 Ultima
Swiftech Ultima kits feature the Apogee CPU block, MCR radiator series, Swiftech micro res and a D5 pump.
Swiftech Ultima (link)

the sticky already did it for you.
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November 8, 2013 2:06:31 PM

I fking love this forum cheers toolmaker!, now shhhhushh, I gotta read all that now. Only shhhhushhh for about five minutes though I love the input!
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November 8, 2013 2:13:30 PM

OK, I'm done and I still have no clue what to get, what would you recomend for me I have a Corsair case (triple radiator mount), I'll be overclocking a i7 4770K, ideally expanding the loop at some point to watercool my two GTX 770's, I have bundles of power with a corsair 1200 PSU, I don't know what else is relevant, oh and I just saw watercooling parts for the RAM, DUUUUUDE, so cool!

EDIT: I think I want a XSPC Raystorm
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November 8, 2013 2:27:15 PM

I'm thinking the XSPC 750 360 is the right way to go, cheers Jake, let me know if it's incompatible or just not a good choice or something please peeps.

I just printed the return label for the H100i !
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a b K Overclocking
November 8, 2013 2:34:02 PM

hankmarvin said:
I'm thinking the XSPC 750 360 is the right way to go, cheers Jake, let me know if it's incompatible or just not a good choice or something please peeps.

I just printed the return label for the H100i !


I believe it comes with mounting equipment for all the past 5 years of sockets.
AMD and Intel. And you have an i&-4770k (LGA 1150 socket)
And 1150, 55, and 56 have the same mounting hardware.
CPU Block Specs:
Quote:
AMD Sockets 939, 754, 940, AM2, AM3
Intel Sockets LGA2011, LGA1366, LGA1155, LGA1156, LGA1150, 603, 604
*Requires mounting holes


And let me refresh my info on that case, but I believe it can fit up to a 480mm Radiator.
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November 8, 2013 2:37:46 PM

Jake Wenta said:
hankmarvin said:
I'm thinking the XSPC 750 360 is the right way to go, cheers Jake, let me know if it's incompatible or just not a good choice or something please peeps.

I just printed the return label for the H100i !


I believe it comes with mounting equipment for all the past 5 years of sockets.
AMD and Intel. And you have an i&-4770k (LGA 1150 socket)
And 1150, 55, and 56 have the same mounting hardware.
CPU Block Specs:
Quote:
AMD Sockets 939, 754, 940, AM2, AM3
Intel Sockets LGA2011, LGA1366, LGA1155, LGA1156, LGA1150, 603, 604
*Requires mounting holes


And let me refresh my info on that case, but I believe it can fit up to a 480mm Radiator.


Thanks matey, the Corsair site says "What size radiator will fit in the top of the 800D?
The cases are designed to accommodate most 3x 120mm (360mm) radiators with enough space to support push/pull configurations. Measured from edge to edge of the mounting holes on the top of the case there is 10 mm of space between mounting holes."
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a b K Overclocking
November 8, 2013 2:45:21 PM

hankmarvin said:


And let me refresh my info on that case, but I believe it can fit up to a 480mm Radiator.


Thanks matey, the Corsair site says "What size radiator will fit in the top of the 800D?
The cases are designed to accommodate most 3x 120mm (360mm) radiators with enough space to support push/pull configurations. Measured from edge to edge of the mounting holes on the top of the case there is 10 mm of space between mounting holes."[/quotemsg]

Yup, just read a review about it. I was confusing it with the 900D :D 
As for RAM, DDR3 runs cool-but if you will OC it to around 2600Mhz+, then I recommend a block on it :) 
But I'd look at VRM and MOSFET blocks prior to RAM. My priority list personally is:
CPU>VRM>GPU>RAM>HDD(Really lol)
OR
CPU>GPU SLI>VRM>RAM>HDD

Not sure if you have the AX1200 or AX1200i, but the 1200i has optional white cables sold separately. (~80 dollars)
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November 8, 2013 2:50:12 PM

My RAM's 2600 MHz stock, I don't think I'll need it overclocked any time soon, I'm vaguely remembering something about 2600 MHz being the limit for something, my CPU maybe, god knows my heads overcrowded with spec's and technical gibberish!
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a b K Overclocking
November 8, 2013 2:50:20 PM

Sounds like you are well on your way to a nice system I like the D5 pumps I have several of them and they give a consistent 5 years of performance more if you leave your system off most of the time.







i use them in all my builds
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November 8, 2013 2:51:36 PM

My god man how many PC's does one man need!
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November 8, 2013 2:55:29 PM

How do you know when it's time to change the pump, do they just die and if so what if the computers running while I'm asleep, will it overheat or something?, noob question I know.
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a b K Overclocking
November 8, 2013 2:56:29 PM

I only have two PC's in my house one air cooled for testing and internet the other is water cooled for gaming, all the other build that I have done, are for friends and family.
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a b K Overclocking
November 8, 2013 3:05:35 PM

Sometimes it will simply die, but the normal thing for them to do is slow down a couple of weeks before they die completely, that is why all of my builds have a flow meter installed and connected to the CPU header, that I check daily for this exact reason, it is easy for me to do that now, I learned the hard way, but still did not lose any hardware the thermal shutdowns worked like they were supposed to, with the system understanding that the CPU fan/water pump had failed, it shut the system off.





but that is me.
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November 8, 2013 3:12:03 PM

I'm going to place my order soon, overclockers uk don't have a flow meter so I will have to look elsewhere, can I fit that with the kit?...and is there anything extra I should get to add to the Kit.

And I can't decide what colour coolant to get!, green, red, or blue!. Sorry about all the !'s I get overexcited!!
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a b K Overclocking
November 8, 2013 3:23:19 PM

toolmaker_03 said:
I only have two PC's in my house one air cooled for testing and internet the other is water cooled for gaming, all the other build that I have done, are for friends and family.


You are so lucky, I enjoy building PC's. But EVERYONE I know tries to tell me consoles are better :pfff:  lol

I tell em I will build a PC to their budget for FREE, and they don't want to lol.

I should just go to some 5 star restaurant in a very prosperous area and stop people walking by, "Hey man! I'll build you a computer man!" haha
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a b K Overclocking
November 8, 2013 3:24:39 PM

hankmarvin said:
I'm going to place my order soon, overclockers uk don't have a flow meter so I will have to look elsewhere, can I fit that with the kit?...and is there anything extra I should get to add to the Kit.

And I can't decide what colour coolant to get!, green, red, or blue!. Sorry about all the !'s I get overexcited!!


No coolant, they gunk up your tubes and pump and blocks, ruining flow and shortening pump life. Go with colored tubing (they have uv so you can pop in uv leds-or just regular leds).
And use something basic, like distilled water with a kill coil. (Silver for example)
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November 8, 2013 3:26:43 PM

I get high from just the research and shopping to be honest, building them is great, I'm a born tinkerer, when I was a kid, about 4-5 at most I had this go Kart, my Mum went off to make a cuppa, when she came back I had it up on bricks with a screwdriver in hand!
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November 8, 2013 3:35:28 PM

Jake Wenta said:
hankmarvin said:
I'm going to place my order soon, overclockers uk don't have a flow meter so I will have to look elsewhere, can I fit that with the kit?...and is there anything extra I should get to add to the Kit.

And I can't decide what colour coolant to get!, green, red, or blue!. Sorry about all the !'s I get overexcited!!


No coolant, they gunk up your tubes and pump and blocks, ruining flow and shortening pump life. Go with colored tubing (they have uv so you can pop in uv leds-or just regular leds).
And use something basic, like distilled water with a kill coil. (Silver for example)


TEACH ME OBI WAN KENOBI!!

No coolant, check!, I will go have a read now, just water and errm what now?...
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