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Planning to Build Custom Desktop PC - Parts Selected - Expectations - Few Questions, Open to Suggestions.

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November 8, 2013 10:26:56 PM

Hello everyone, my name is Mackenzie, I'm just your average California beach blonde girl. I apologize for how long this post may seem. It really isn't that long, and I would greatly appreciate anyone giving it even just a little analyzing to provide much needed feedback for an insecure new builder that has no experience building a custom PC, or buying parts with their value to spec awareness.

Cost for this computer:
1291.00$
+20.00$ for shipping
1311.00$ (sub-total)
+15% taxes (yay, we love taxes!)
1507.65

SET 1============================ 311.00 (+20.00 shipping)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... (Tower Case - Cooler Master Cosmos SE COS-5000-KWN1 - Full Tower Computer Case with High-End Water Cooling Support and Carrying Handles )
170.00 (+13.00 shipping)

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... (Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120 mm PWM Fan)
35.00 (+1.00 shipping)

www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E1681715111... SSR-650RM 650W (PSU - SeaSonic SSR-650RM 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular)
100.00 (+8.00 shipping)

SET 2============================ 530.00

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... (Motherboard - MSI Z87-G45 LGA 1150 Intel Z87 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Pro Gaming)
150.00

www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E1682023156... (Random-Access Memory - G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C9D-16GXM)
150.00

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... (Processor - i5-4670K Haswell 3.4GHz LGA 1150 84W Quad-Core Desktop Processor Intel HD Graphics)
240.00

SET 3============================ 460.00

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... (Disk Drive - SAMSUNG 840 EVO MZ-7TE250BW 2.5" 250GB SATA III TLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD))
180.00

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... (CD/DVD Burner - ASUS DVD-Writer 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 8X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 24X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM Black SATA Model)
20.00

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... (Graphics Card - MSI Gaming N760 TF 2GD5/OC GeForce GTX 760 2GB 256-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 SLI Support Video Card)
260.00

Windows 7 Ultimate 64-bit (already have a license ready for it)
0.00

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I'm going to attempt putting this together, once all of the above parts are purchased and in my home, which I expect to be sometime in the next four - six months. The goal is primarily gaming performance, but I also do a huge amount of data/file management, Photoshop, Video Editing/Encoding, SDK programming with Java and Python, and many other day-to-day computer activities such as multi-tab browsing and watching video files. I'm disabled and not a very wealthy person, so this is about the best I can convince myself to buy within the next 6 months. I've gone over the parts with some of my friends, but they're still very young compared to me and I'm not sure them helping me piece together a high-performance machine I want to be around for 10 years is the brightest of ideas. Also, I have an external 1 TB hard drive with almost full space left in it, which is why I decided to go SSD (for my speedy file management and boot time needs).

Final note of worthiness, I may be able to get the parts even cheaper through a friend who has his foot in the door currently of managing someone's computer business (private), so if anything, I think the price will be cheaper by the time it is all said, done, and paid for.

Expectations:
-Will run basically any game at max settings (60 fps+) from the release date of Skyrim, and before (Nov 11, 2011).

-Will multi-task several applications at once, including programming, compiling, repeated development server test launches with browser and possible game open in background as I work/test as an example.

-Will boot in less than 4 minutes unlike my current machine (1.5 mins to view desktop, 2.5 mins before desktop/explorer is fully loaded and can use the computer normally)

-Will exceed my current machine (listed below with specs) and not only exceed them, but exceed them without having to overclock the processor or graphics card.

-Will last a long time even with excessive usage hours daily (does get shut off when not in use and will not be on a floor or dust-heavy environment, no smoking near it, a single user). Upgrades and part failures are expected from time to time, and I can handle that for a 10-year PC.

What I don't need/care for:
-Windows 8

-Newest, latest, greatest games.

**I'm into much older, even retro emulated gaming, the odd MMO, Minecraft (with stellar texture packs and maxed out settings), Skyrim, and older games. Not much into first-person-shooters, though running some 2010 - 2012 ones at high quality and full frames (for me, 60 FPS is perfect) would be fantastic**

-Worry about cost

**If I'm going to get a good machine, and have been saving for 8 months, and will save another 6 months for it, I might as well get a good one, at hopefully a reasonable deal**

------

Current Machine:

ASUS RoG (Republic of Gamers) laptop, original price 1499.00$ new
GeForce GTX 560M - 2 GB
Intel Core i7 - 2670QM, 2.2Gz (Turbo button to 3.1 Gz)
750 GB HDD
16 GB of RAM
DVD Burner/Drive
Windows 7 Home Premium

-Plays Skyrim at full frames when in turbo mode, even with a double resolution texture enhancing graphical mod you can install for the game, at maximum graphic settings.

-When in turbo, plays any game I've tried except the odd ultra-setting first-person game such as Mirror's Edge with the new physX engine (at the time I got this 2011 machine)

-Does not run Minecraft in Extreme render at a perfect framerate. I would like the new PC to.

-Never had a BSOD, or hardware failure except my former landlord decided to flicker the power circuits to try and break some of our machines that were driving up his hydro bill, and that shorted out my power adapter (fortunately only the adapter was ruined and I replaced it shortly thereafter).

Problems with current machine:

1) Has been in turbo pretty much constantly for over a year solid.
2) Fans are very audible now, and the heat feels really hot on my palms when it has a lot going on, you can REALLY hear this beast rev up when it is time to work.
3) Expired warranty.
4) When in turbo and revved up, the keyboard has problems where I type with 100% accuracy, yet it decides to skip some keys (any application, game or other) and not register me pressing the key down. I do type quite quickly, but this is a very irritating problem for a fast-paced computer user who has a nasty case of perfectionism.
5) Being disabled, hunching over a laptop, is becoming very unhealthy for me, as is squinting to the small 15.6" screen built-in. I plan on using a 19" monitor (any bigger and it affects my ability/speed on computers by having to move my eyes across more pixels that are out of my peripherals for being such a big screen).
6) As said above, noise.
7) Requires overclocking to perform exceptionally. I would like my new desktop to perform as good as this machine or better, without having to overclock it.
8) Is a laptop, excellent for gaming on the go... but would rather it become my secondary computer, the new desktop becoming the new main one.

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Questions:

1) The new processor I'm getting is not hyper-threaded for a quad-core, whereas my old laptop is hyper-threaded and also a quad-core... will this make a huge difference in performance considering things as they are?

2) I'll be using a single graphics card, without SLI (GTX 760), will 600W power supply be enough to support the entire above build with that being said?

3) I'm getting two of these:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

I could get 4 for 280.00$

But yet this is their 4 stick deal:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
306.00$, Why is a bundle more expensive? What is the difference in these RAM sticks that I am not seeing?

4) Are all of the above parts compatible to each other for a Windows 7 intended machine? Like... will I be able to build this and have it working perfectly with just the above parts and proper configuration/installation?

5) Do you recommend any changes of parts if the price is basically the same and not significantly different in specs? Please includes your reasons why.

6) Do you think this machine I want to build will exceed my expectations, and derail the problems of my older laptop? Please explain as much as you feel like.

Every opinion counts and matters to me, I'll be checking this a lot to help me piece together the right build for my needs, reflect my concerns, and I would most certainly appreciate any help at all! Thank you in advance for your time, everyone!

Mackenzie~
November 8, 2013 10:44:05 PM

I haven't read everything just yet but will get to it shortly. I just wanted to mention that Newegg only takes states that have warehouses in them, California being one. If you were to buy from somewhere else than you could avoid the tax.
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November 8, 2013 10:48:43 PM

Thank you, though I also have the option of going through my sister's boyfriend whom has his foot in management's door for running a computer store (privately owned), which he may be able to get me the rig even cheaper, with next-day orders being received.

Thus no shipping etc would really be needed. Just to confirm that newegg is by no means who I'm choosing to go with, those links are simply for reference of basic pricing, appearance, and part information.
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November 8, 2013 11:10:13 PM

1) Hyperthreading isn't all that useful unless you're opening lots of small things for the computer to do, Games do well on 4 cores, and you'll notice your desktop will be lots faster than the laptop.

2) 600W should be fine, I like to stick to Seasonic or XFX PSUs, you can get one about the same price as what you have listed and they're generally highly recommended.

3) With Ram what you're paying for is guaranteed compatibility. Four single sticks may not play well together. They may. Nobody knows. Anyways, that's why the 4 sticks together is priced higher. Probably worth the extra monies just in case. Where memory is concerned, I'd hit up PCPartPicker.com. You could get a better deal maybe on the same size/CAS/speed.

4) They should all be compatible with proper drivers, which should come with everything. NVidia.com for the video card drivers.

5) Perosonally, I'd try to go with a slightly better video card if you can afford it, and if you're not overclocking there's no reason to go with a "K" CPU. Save some money on a non "K" version. Although if you wanted to overclock in the future, then the "K" and the choice of cooler would be a good pairing. Personally, I like to keep everything as cool as possible, so maybe add some aftermarket fans to the case just to make sure you have good airflow, maybe a second fan on the CPU cooler in a push pull. Not necessary by any means, but if one fan breaks down you would have a back up.

6) I think you should be fine with gaming, I don't know what resolution you'll be at, but a 760 should handle 1080P at 60 frames for most games. I know nothing about coding, so I can't really comment on that. Overall though, looks like a pretty decent rig.
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November 8, 2013 11:24:44 PM

Keeping in mind that I often have a game running in the background while performing several other tasks, some demanding like FRAPS recording, video editing, programming SDKs, internet browser with many tabs, Photoshop, test development server, and often these all happen at the same time hence my desire for 16 GB of RAM not seeming so overkill when you have that in mind.

For the PSU, my ideal part SILVERSTONE Strider series ST60F-PS 600W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Full Modular, what makes you believe Seasonic or XFX are superior?

As for the RAM, so you guys think I should pay 10$ more for this deal:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

As opposed to getting two of these (exact same brand and stick) sticks?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

I really don't understand the difference, and at the same time don't want to be making a huge mistake by purchasing two 8 GB sticks separately instead of in the same deal...

They are for sure compatible? That's great, I'm not completely absent-minded in today's technology then

About the processor, I did want the K version for its unlocked powerhouse overclocking capabilities... you know 10 year machine being the idea, a time may just come where I want to clock it up, so I figure it can't really hurt.

As for better graphics card, the story goes the more money you have to buy the better card, the more satisfied you will be. But, when on turbo, my current laptop's graphics seems to play everything flawlessly, and if the GTX 760 is significantly newer and better than my current GTX 560M laptop GPU, I have a feeling the 760 card will be more than adequate.

Please correct me or inform me of anything I may be missing. Also, am I missing any vital parts to have a fully functional computer desktop? Silly question, but I really don't trust myself with this.
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November 8, 2013 11:28:13 PM

Hmm, that does look like a really good GPU, though I've specifically steered away from all things AMD from personal experience of my life's computers dying much faster if the parts involved were AMD, admittedly the processor most of the time and not the graphics, but if I can't trust their processor, I don't think I'll trust their graphics, when I'm so comfortable with nVidia, the panel, the flexibility, and longterm reliable performance. It's worth a few extra bucks. I have two items to "possibly go big on" and I'll say one now, but they are distant future planned upgrades. Likely in 10 months+ when I can even fathom affording to sink more dollars into computer technology.

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168... (Graphics Card - EVGA 03G-P4-2881-KR GeForce GTX 780 Ti 3GB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 3.0 SLI Support Video Card )
700.0 (+6.00 shipping)

Also this reminds me of yet another newbie question I had about hardware.. is there an absolutely significant difference in performance/quality in going SLI? I don't understand what it is besides buying two of the same card and it's "better"
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Best solution

November 8, 2013 11:45:16 PM

1. Hyper threading is good for CPU intensive programs such as rendering videos and working on photos, you won't have a problem doing that stuff on a 4670k, but a 4770k will do those things a bit faster.

2. Yes, you would be fine with 550w as well.

3. I've been told in the past that its better to get dual channel kits rather than a bunch of single sticks. The reason for this is that ram in dual channel kits works better with each other than 2 random sticks even when they are the same model. Also if you plan to go for 32gb ram I would suggest getting the i7 4770k over the i5 4670k.

To answer the question, I believe the cost increase has to do with how pre paired multichannel ram works better together, but I am not personally knowledgeable enough about that to tell you for sure. If I had to guess I would say they are tested and matched with complementary sticks for the best performance and the increase in cost is to make up the testing cost. But I do not know that is a fact, I'm just guessing.

4. Yes they are.

5. Corsair, XFX, Seasonic, and Antec have great PSUs in the same power range for a good amount cheaper. Anything from them with the exception of the CX line from corsair (non modular specifically, CX#00 have a bad reputation, CX#00m are good. The "M" is the important part.)

I also personally prefer Gigabyte and Asus motherboards over MSI but there's nothing wrong with MSI.

That case is a bit expensive, there are plenty of sub 100 cases that work very well, but at the end of the day, you can make a case like that last a life time and is the one part you aren't likely to need to upgrade ever. Unless ATX gets phased out. It is one of if not the biggest case out there however and that's probably why you chose it. (More of a thought than a suggestion.)

6. I feel like that is a bad question, I would rather think its going to be mediocre and let it prove me wrong than expect it to do well. I will say that it will perform the tasks you want it to and say that it is a good setup.

7. I said "Newegg only TAKES states with warehouses in them" just wanted to clarify that I meant TAXES.

(I had another thought... but I forgot what it was, hopefully I'll remember.)

Edit: @ the "I don't trust myself with this" comment, you came here with a very good setup in mind, Silverstone is a PSU brand that doesn't get much love on toms because most of us only trust Antec, Corsair, Seasonic and XFX. I'd say your doing pretty well and should give yourself more credit.

Also wanted to say that if you got an AMD graphics card over nvidia, XFX has lifetime warranties which compliment a long term PC.

Also with the amount of things you said you will be doing at once, I would suggest getting a 4770k or even getting Ivy Bridge-E but those are quite expensive and I can't say I know enough about them to say you would need one.
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November 9, 2013 12:03:12 AM

Personally, I don't have anything against the PSU you've chosen. If you read through the forums here, Seasonic and XFX are the two that seem to be recommended the most and most frequently. There are people on here who know a lot more than me, I was just putting in my two cents.

As for the graphics. 120$ difference isn't "a few bucks". That's why I recommended it. You could buy two of them and crossfire them for "a few bucks" more than the 760, and since they're on the same tier according to Toms (I linked it) as single cards they perform similarly enough to the point you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. As for longevity, I can't really say, I swore off ATI when I bought a 200$ whatever it was a decade ago, not cause it died on me, but because it wouldn't play half the games I wanted to, the drivers were messed up. Got me a 8800 SLI setup after that, was very pleased, then the 4870 came out and I had to try it, been a convert ever since. They've come a long way. In the past I've always used AMD processors, but Intel are so superior now that that's what I run. I'm not a fanboy, I go where the goods are.

SLI and Crossfire are basically each card renders every other frame, they duplicate memory, so if you have 2 cards, and each has 2Gb of memory, you have 2Gb of memory. At high resolutions or multiple monitors, that becomes a factor, at 1080p, not so much. Both AMD and NVidia have put a lot of effort into their multi card efforts, I believe that SLI is superior to Crossfire, that's my belief, not necessarily true, maybe in some cases, and some cases not, I've ordered a second 7870XT so I will find out. BTW. None of my ATI/AMD cards failed on me. Both of my NVidias did. Some cards last, some don't, there's no way to tell out of the box how long it will last you.

10 months from now, I'm expecting Nvidia will have the 800 series out Only time will tell, but if you're saving up, don't get your hopes up on something that's awesome now, cause in 10 months who knows, it might be junk comparatively.
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November 9, 2013 12:06:27 AM

Hmm, so forking up a few extra dollars to get the bundled RAM of 16 GB would be a better idea then. Thank you very much! All of those answers were very helpful and informative and helps me feel a little more secure about what I'm getting myself into, here.

Though I don't think the 6th question is bad... I mean I'm asking (hopefully) experienced gaming rig users and computer technician experts, if it can multi-task several specific types of applications and a game in the background, basically expecting Skyrim or worse to play perfectly. I just would like it to outperform this 2011 laptop or better, so I feel it is a very important question, and anyone whom might have a clear answer or opinion about that question, I'd certainly appreciate it.

As for a monitor, I'm not sure what resolution it would be, but until I can afford the extra 300$~ for a 1080 p monitor, I will use this old acer LCD screen monitor I have, which by eye measuring appears to be a 17" screen. 19" is perfect for me, any bigger is too big, and smaller than 15.6" is too small. Several years old, only a VGA port (Already have a DVI adapter ready for it), but I think it will do just fine with the setup till I can get the better monitor.

Yes, I saw about a dozen sub-100 dollar cases, that looked just as excellent in quality.. but I decided. Since it is the first part I need to put parts together inside a computer, I want one that will last as long as I can fathom, tons of airflow to encourage extensions of the internal part lifespans, easy/careful handling with those integrated bars, and as you said, one of the most spacious towers out there. Decided 170 for what to me, is an extremely high-end case, since I'm going to be staring at it for 10+ years, might as well look absolutely amazing as well as perform exceptionally for what it can.
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November 9, 2013 12:33:41 AM

Another reply since my post! You guys are really helpful, I'm grateful! ^^;

Thank you for the detailed explanation/opinion on SLI, I can certainly see why it is such a big hype to double up with that kind of knowledge.

You are quite right, you can't tell its lifespan from the box, I can only go by my own experience to calculate, which is probably only about a dozen computers, which may not seem like much. 10 months from now when 800 series is ready, that may be close to the point where I'm at the final part to purchase (graphics card, since the processor has integrated graphics, the GPU would be last).

May I please request the 'best buy' alternative for a PSU from one of these trusted brands you guys are talking about? A newegg link would be most appropriate for part identification in the organized scheme I have building up here. Not looking to burn 200W more than I need either, so 600W if you guys think that will run the above design, I'd be happy with that until future notice of when I may wish to upgrade a few parts. Remember, Skyrim is probably the only 'new' game I'll ever play, and work backwards from there when it comes to gaming as current-generation computer gaming very, very highly disappoints me... in my opinion they replace gameplay and fun with graphical enhancements and focus in most cases.

@FastGunna edit:

Thank you, I am trying to build some confidence in myself, and you guys are really helping with that right now. I have already decided I'm definitely beginning to buy these parts, starting with set 1 tomorrow, or at least order them, just need the feedback to collaborate up the best parts for what I'm seeking. Yes, my other "go big" planned future upgrade will certainly be a significantly better processor as well, but for the first design, am I right in believing the processor I have selected will outperform my i7 2670QM 2.2 Gz (O/c 3.1Gz) hyper-threaded quad-core laptop by a longshot?

I find this laptop is very fast and capable of multi-tasking pretty much all of the above at once, but it's getting loud, ergonomically uncomfortable, and I am too scared to ever open a laptop, so without warranty I have no assurance that my only computer isn't going to fail sometime soon, hence it needs to become secondary. My apologies if I'm violating any double posting rules, I'm clearly not trying to spam nonsensical posts.
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November 9, 2013 12:45:02 AM

Sorry I read the 6th question as more of a "will it be super amazing" than "is this a good purchasing decision" so

6. Yes this will do very well and out perform your laptop. I would suggest an i7 for the amount of multitasking you will be doing but an i5 can handle a decent amount. Boot times will be much better than 4 minutes, my Samsung 840/i5 4670k boot windows 7 in less than 30 seconds. I haven't timed it recently but around 2 months ago it was actually 17 seconds from the time I pressed the power button to when I could start running programs. It will also be very capable of playing 2011 and older games.

Also I didn't mean bad as in not worth asking, I meant bad as in inflating your hopes to an unrealistic level. Again, I misunderstood the question.

Edit: I am posting from a phone so its a bit slow. Lots of info goes up by the time I finish typing. But I will mention them as I see them!

Having a higher capacity PSU doesn't mean you use more power, the wattage is the amount of power that it can deliver. So if you have a system that uses 400w, you PSU will be outputting 400w, the actual amount it pulls from the wall depends on the efficiency, so 80+ will pull 480w or less to produce 400w. So if you have a 600w psu that is powering a 400w system, than the PSU is producing 400w and has some head room which is a good thing. Running a PSU at max load is not ideal, having some headroom over what you actually need will increase its life time. Also efficiency drops when you get closer to max load so having a good amount of headroom will also decrease running costs a bit.
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November 9, 2013 12:52:52 AM

Hehe, it's okay.. as humans with brains instead of CPUs we're bound to misunderstand sometimes, I misunderstood what you meant by 'bad', so it looks like we're even. I am very grateful for the concise answer.. I know it required studying a bit about my current machine, its capabilities and trying to compare to a new machine, but being a desktop, I do hope it exceeds a 2011 laptop, especially considering I'm sinking 1500.00 dollars into it so far! Thank you again, VERY helpful.

Any recommended PSU you'd like to share? Silverstone isn't giving me much for vote of confidence after what has been said so far in this topic, but a specific model that would be compatible would really help ease my worries. Only part to fail on my laptop was the power adapter, and I know that's different, but makes me extra paranoid to get the right power supply for the new build. Thanks again!
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November 9, 2013 1:48:47 AM

@FastGunna edit:

"Running a PSU at max load is not ideal, having some headroom over what you actually need will increase its life time. Also efficiency drops when you get closer to max load so having a good amount of headroom will also decrease running costs a bit. "

Pearls of wisdom right there, that only makes perfect sense, I got to hand it to you, you're very excellent at explaining in detail and answering questions. After a bit more research on these forums, I realize that I'll be using a 1 TB external hard drive, I like wired keyboards/mice, wired Ethernet broadband, and a sound system that does have its own power, but I'm not sure if the audio in would cause any more of a problem. Anyway the point, will 600W give that same extra head room you were talking about, even considering the potential USB draws?

I will not be running the machine as a server, or connecting any physical servers to it, if that helps. Thank you so much, again. ^.^;
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November 9, 2013 1:49:00 AM

XFX 550w
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
One of the most recommended PSUs for single GPU set ups on Tom's

Corsair CX600m
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
Semi modular so you have less pointless cables laying around.

Seasonic 550w Gold Certified
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...
High efficiency, high quality, semi modular. This is the one that I would get myself but there are a good amount of people that don't think 80+ Gold is worth the price increase over bronze. Either way this one is priced very well.

To my knowledge USB devices don't draw much power. Mouse and keyboard are definantly insignificant amounts. I think internal HDDs are quite a bit faster but that's something I need to read up on.
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November 9, 2013 2:01:14 AM

Oooo, that Seasonic 80+ Gold looks very good, and at 550W it is much cheaper than the 80+ silver Silverstone 600W model I had in mind. Since what you said about it only basically pulling what it needs with a bit of an offset depending on certain factors/components, and what you said about the extra head room extending its life potentially by a lot since it wouldn't be near the load... for only 15 dollars more I could get the same Seasonic model except its max load is 650W, and would theoretically last (until upgrade is necessary) longer than if I settled for the 550W which is cutting it quite a lot closer.

Normally the 650W is 124.99 by their pricing, but it is slashed down to 100 bucks, which even the 80+ bronze XFX model @ 650W is 90$. Still, as you can tell by going right to the gold certified, I'm not terribly concerned about the price... I mean if you look at the part I had my eyes on, 106.00 dollars, for only 600W, 80+ silver. Quite a difference. Being semi-modular and you telling me yourself that that is the one you would get is comforting enough for me, truthfully I don't know how much harder it would be to deal with no modular, semi, or full.. but it doesn't seem like it would be too much of a hassle, especially with my case.
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November 9, 2013 2:41:42 AM

Only clear answer I've found regarding about external and internal HDDs is that USB 3.0 is faster than USB 2.0...

I believe with the parts your looking at your max would be around 350w. Most people wouldn't come close to that in daily use but you might. 40-60% load is where most power supplies are most efficient so I would say the 650 is a good choice.

Non modular comes with all cables already hooked up and if you don't use them, they are still in the case and you have to stuff them somewhere.
Semi-modular only has the motherboard cables and everything else you plug in as needed so you only have the cables you actually use.
Modular is a bit pointless in my opinion because every PC uses a mother board and needs those wires anyway.

In your case you won't have any problems with having the cables from a non modular PSU, but if you were to open it up and show off to anyone than not having a bunch of useless cables laying around is a plus.


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November 9, 2013 2:53:41 AM

You're so helpful, thank you very much again, I really do appreciate the advice. I am also enjoying the learning process of modern technology, and I bet learning how to put it all together is going to be a great experience too!

So to keep the topic up to date, I have since changed two part decisions in my build:

www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E1681715111... SSR-650RM 650W (PSU - SeaSonic SSR-650RM 650W ATX12V / EPS12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular)
100.00 (+8.00 shipping)

www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E1682023156... (Random-Access Memory - G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model F3-1600C9D-16GXM)
150.0

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Editing into the original post now. Any more suggestions, or pointers, or helpful advice to someone completely inexperienced in building their own PC, or things to watch out for, common mistakes to avoid making when building it... I would really make great use of such information and appreciate it. Thanks again!

3:00 AM almost, so it is bedtime. Finally, I can relax about this extremely heavy purchase, with ten fold the confidence I had before yesterday when I started asking around and looking for the most suitable setup.
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November 9, 2013 3:53:47 AM

Okay, so I'm still up reading and researching, but I'm really going after this comment! I will check back when I wake up of course. =)

So thinking down the road here, for upgrading and long-term enjoyment of the best experience for my own needs. This graphics card is 140 dollars more expensive..

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

It is the 770 (rather than the GTX 760), and has 4 GB dedicated to it. I probably don't need the extra boost 'right now' for my current gaming/application needs, but I have read up about how it can even blow a GTX Titan out of the water in performance, when it is paired up in SLI. Is this true? Do you think I should save up another 140, and for my future planned graphics update much later, double up with SLI? Or do you think I should stick with the 760, and get the 780 Ti in the future, and even FURTHER into the future from THAT, get the 780 Ti doubled up?

I know that was confusingly written, I apologize, I'm very sleepy now. I'll hear from you guys tomorrow, hopefully. ^.^;
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November 9, 2013 4:06:28 AM

The biggest piece of advice I can give is the advice a friend gave me, take your time. I took 3 hours to put together my first PC. The part I was most worried about was putting in the CPU, I read to much about the possibility of bending pins and how 1 bent pin will stop everything from working. Turns out, putting a CPU in is one of the simplest parts, line it up, set it down and its in.

The real challenge is wiring everything up. I had all the hardware installed aside from the GPU which I installed last so I had more room to plug things into the motherboard and I then realised that I had a huge pile of cords... that I had no idea where to put. Once I snapped out of the "oh no what have I gotten myself into" state of mind I just picked a part and figured out how to plug it in. I took it one cable at a time and eventually everything was plugged in. I put the GPU in and hooked it up. It posted first try so I put the windows CD in and started installing it. At that point I looked back at the past couple hours and realised that it wasn't really hard at all, once you figure out where the wires go its actually really simple. Just don't get overwhelmed!

Some general advice that you'll hear in most guides, avoid carpet, static is evil. Make sure everything is well lit. Keep everything organised. Don't set boxes on top of your wires because it will have you thinking you got everything you needed except for SATA cables and the people at Tom's neglected to tell you that you needed to buy some... this may have happened to me btw.


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November 9, 2013 12:38:37 PM

Very interesting, FastGunna. Thank you again for the advice. I definitely planned on savoring the building moments and taking very careful time. I could have sister's boyfriend, a hardware experienced guy, help piece together the delicate parts for me... but I want to overcome the challenge myself. I love operating computers so much, why not try getting my hands dirty (figuratively speaking) and put one together?

I've formatted HDDs and installed windows plenty of times, but I'd hardly consider that installing a HDD.

Wait, so you're saying that if I buy all the above parts, I will be missing a cable? Which cable(s) will I need to get in advance? No HDD, just a SSD. I'd like to buy the possible extras beforehand so I don't run into any problems mid-build.
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November 9, 2013 1:43:32 PM

No sorry, I was saying that when I was building mine I set all my cables aside but I had a box on the sata cables and thought I didn't have any. Everything youneed should be included. Its couldn't hurt to have someone there for "emotional support" but you shouldn't have any difficulties putting it together. Many people compare it to legos and thats fairly accurate.
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November 9, 2013 1:59:33 PM

Ahh, well gaming-wise, my life revolves around Minecraft, which is quite a lot like legos, only has elements of circuitry (redstone) and the likes, so maybe I won't be in such a different environment being inside the tower after all. Thank you very much again. ^.^;

I apologize if I'm becoming annoying in any way, but with the case I have chosen, I read a review of someone having to use double-sided tape to hold their SSD in place inside the case... such blue-collar, unclean, untidiness just isn't enough for me. Are you able to tell if I'll need to purchase anything extras to have it properly mounted inside that case? A bracket? I don't know what bracket to look for if this is the case. Any details about getting the SSD in place would be well-used information, I assure you.

I did know you meant the box was covering the cords you thought you were missing by the way haha. I just read somewhere that SSDs often don't come with cables sometimes, or proper mounting support for desktop cases.
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November 9, 2013 3:18:15 PM

You shouldnt have a problem putting an SSD in, the Drive Trays have 2.5" and 3.5" options.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Zze7tJnPb0

At 9:40 she goes over the drive bays, SSDs are 2.5". The case does not have mounting options for putting the SSD behind the motherboard which some people like to do, most builds that Ive seen with that mounting choice usually have them held on by velcro.
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November 9, 2013 4:35:43 PM

After some more research and talking to my friends more as well, it looks like I'll want to go ahead and remove the large HD cage for airflow and space for the card, since there are still topside bays at the front I can use for the DVD drive, and a bottom cage that will support up to 4 SSDs, should I ever need that many (unlikely, I'll be getting a 1 TB SSD when I can afford it rather than several 250 GB ones). They assured me it will definitely fit and mount properly without having to use tape or buy the mounting kit for an extra ten bucks for no reason.

Also one friend mentioned the push pull airflow around the CPU heatsink, just like you did. I think I will do that since it seems more reliable and efficient for cooling (for non-liquid), and like you said a backup would be nice. But I'm still unsure of what I need to get to make this happen, so I will ask just two more questions and be satisfied with the build design, and will likely come back here for building help if I get stuck while putting it together and other online resources weren't suffice.

1) I could make the push pull effect happen by purchasing a second one of these, correct?

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E168...

2) With the included case fans, the parts I've chosen, and push pull air cooling around the CPU, will I be able to overclock it (nothing above 4 Gz) and be able to relax and not worry about its temperature? Will my entire system be sufficiently cool, even when the CPU is overclocked is what I'm asking, basically.

Thank you for your time, everyone! It has been a HUGE help and I'm finally satisfied with the design and am definitely going through with it. If things work in my favor, I may be able to have the entire system set up, including the GTX 760 card, by Christmas!
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November 9, 2013 5:53:30 PM

1. You wouldnt need a whole second CPU cooler, you would only need a second fan.

2. I believe so, that said I dont have a lot of experience with overclocking. I will be getting into that later on myself but thats after I upgrade to a H100i.

No problem, we are here because we enjoy helping others!
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November 9, 2013 6:35:43 PM

Thank you, once again. :)  Regarding not needing an entire cooler system, could you show me the part I would need that would fit on the other side of the sink for the Hyper 212 EVO cooler I'll be getting?
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November 9, 2013 11:43:59 PM

I thought that was it but I wanted to be sure, you want two identical fans for a push pull setup and the direct link to collermaster was the best way to be sure :D 

Good luck with everything, if you have any questions we are here!
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!