New cooler = higher temp. Need some advice, please

seanm1960

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Oct 23, 2013
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Hi - I have an i7 960 3.2 Ghz CPU. I do not use watercooling, I am not oc'd, and have done nothing to change the fan speed in the bios.

I replaced the stock Intel cooler with one from Arctic Cooling. I cleaned off all thermal paste residue from the chip, and the new cooler comes with therm paste "installed". My temps are now higher than before. With the stock cooler, the temps for each core was in the lower to mid 50's, now with the Arctic Cooling cooler, those temps have jumped to the upper 60's. Shouldn't happen. Nothing else in my computer has changed. I haven't moved it to another room; the ambient air is still the same as it was; the case's side is on and in place as it was before. I didn't install any other hw; change any HDDs - nothing.

The one thing I will say is this: when I installed, I put the bracket in place on the MB, and then went to screw the heatsink (two screws) to the bracket. I lined up the hs best I could... I have one screw in place, and in order to get the second screwed in, I had to shimmy the heat sink over. But only very slightly - when I tell you that it was 1/16th of an inch, I am not kidding. My first (and only) thought, is something happened with the thermal paste. But is that really possible from shifting it that small amount? Any other ideas?

Thanks!

 

mechan

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Jan 25, 2009
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Three possibilities really.

A) Mounting pressure too low - make sure the aftermarket cooler is screwed in real tight (but not to the point you damage the screws)
B) Paste got misplaced upon application - buy a decent aftermarket paste (e.g. Noctua nt-h1 or Arctic Silver mx-4 or anyone you like really), use the "lentil" method and place it yourself
C) Fan speed too low; Where did you plug the fans of the aftermarket cooler? If they are PWM fans (e.g. 4-pin) make sure you connect them to the right header on the MB (e.g. "CPU Fan" labeled) and that control of the fan is not somehow set to low

A note when mounting aftermarket coolers: don't screw one screw fully at a time. Screw each one of them partially and then progressively tighten them until you get to the pressure you want.

Best,

Mechan
 

seanm1960

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Oct 23, 2013
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You know - I really wasn't looking for any advice on other products - specifically liquid cooling... but I am glad you brought that up. Thanks! I just took a look at it on the corsair site, and took a look at the install vid. That's something I am interested in now. The only thing is, it appears you need access to the rear of the MB, which I don't have. Just sent an email to corsair about that to see if they have any suggestions.

In the meantime, thanks to the rest of you too. The one I purchased is the ARCTIC Freezer 13 CPU Cooler :

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186039

Mounting pressure too low? Really don't think so. Those screws are really tight - they don't turn any more. As for "don't screw one screw fully at a time" - yeah, I know. It's screw one a little, then get the other side a little, and go back and forth s few times.

Paste got misplaced upon application - that's what I thought initially, but as I said earlier - can it really get displaced by shifting the cooler that small an amount?

As for the fan speed, I didn't change anything in the bios, and it is definitely plugged in the right place. The "CPU Fan" jack, which is where the old, stock fan was plugged in.

Thanks!
 

gman97005

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Oct 31, 2012
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Making a CPU cutout is not that difficult if you don't mind partially disassembling and removing the motherboard, to me liquid cooling just offers too many advantages, it cleans up the case and gets rid of the bulky heat-sink leaving the beautiful motherboard exposed for viewing, also provides lower case temps because the heat-sink is gone and airflow through the case is no longer impeded, not to mention the fact that core temps never climb above 60* C even when pushed hard, with an air cooler core temps would average 80* C and i was never comfortable with that,,liquid cooling is the key to a cool running system that will last for years when properly maintained but modern liquid cooling systems are for the most part maintenance free, there are some precautions to be made when using a liquid cooler mainly test the system before it is installed and check for any problems (leaks), check it again after installing by placing paper towels all around it underneath then fire the system up and watch it some more, chances are good you will be fine but when mixing highly conductive fluids with electronic components one must take extra precautions to ensure collateral damage is minimized in the event of a failure.
I wonder if mineral oil would work well as a coolant, it is non conductive and if a leak did happen the computer would continue to function as if nothing happened,
I may have just stumbled onto something brilliant, oops.

 

gman97005

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Oct 31, 2012
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4500rpm max but it performs best at 3500rpm, at full voltage the pump rattles but is easily solved by decreasing CPU fan speed and voltage to the pump..

 

seanm1960

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Oct 23, 2013
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Hey guys - thanks. I am not sure what the fan speed is, is there a way to check that? Maybe a little app, or something, like coretemp?

Anyway - I am not going to bother with this too much anymore. I just ordered a Corsair H60. My first venture into water cooling.. woohoo!

I just hope the provided 120mm fan is at least as quiet as the original one....