Stuttering issues lately

z0mb13m4n · Nov 19, 2013

I've been having stuttering issues lately on my build. I've been keeping an eye on this system for awhile now, and it's definitely running clean of viruses, and drivers are all up to date and from their respective manufacturers. The thing that's caught my eye is my voltages were showing low. Now this machine has had a few issues before, for example, i've had on and off periods of stuttering. And one DIMM isn't recognized anymore. I just had my voltages at .1v lower than they were supposed to be. I reseated the whole machine and plugged it into a different outlet. My voltages are still slightly low, but the stuttering has stopped for now. Do i need a new power supply? or is my motherboard to blame here? I have a HW Monitor report to share

Hardware monitor Fintek F71882F
Voltage 0 3.28 Volts [0xCD] (+3.3V)
Voltage 1 1.26 Volts [0x9D] (CPU VCORE)
Voltage 2 1.90 Volts [0x77] (VIN2)
Voltage 3 1.05 Volts [0x59] (VIN3)
Voltage 4 4.88 Volts [0x74] (+5V)
Voltage 5 12.14 Volts [0x8A] (+12V)
Voltage 6 1.81 Volts [0x71] (VIN6)
Voltage 7 3.28 Volts [0xCD] (VSB3V)
Voltage 8 2.99 Volts [0xBB] (VBAT)
Temperature 0 48°C (118°F) [0x30] (TMPIN0)
Temperature 1 37°C (98°F) [0x25] (TMPIN1)
Fan 0 1083 RPM [0x569] (FANIN0)
Fan 2 1277 RPM [0x497] (FANIN2)
Fan PWM 0 100 pc [0xFF] (CPU)
Fan PWM 1 100 pc [0xFF] (System Fan 1)
Fan PWM 2 100 pc [0xFF] (System Fan 2)
Fan PWM 3 100 pc [0xFF] (System Fan 3)

Full Report Here: http://pastebin.com/ANM2qKTn

clutchc · Nov 19, 2013

Yes, the 3.3V and 5V are too low. They should never fall below their rated voltage. A tad higher is OK. The other voltages I can't speak to. But you are correct, it could be PSU or the MB VRs. I would double check those voltages with an accurate VOM tho to be sure. Software voltage display are sometimes off.

What PSU do you have?
Which of these is your MS-7350: http://us.msi.com/service/search/?kw=ms-7350&type=product

z0mb13m4n · Nov 20, 2013

Thank you very much for you prompt response. The platinum is mine. I'm not really good with that sort of thing, where would be best to check on the board for these readings? i have a digital multimeter, but i'm afraid to use it. It's a Cen-Tech 7 function digital multimeter. I'll get a link here, http://www.sun-touch.com/multi-meter-7-function-meter-for-measuring-resistance-ohms.html?utm_source=pricegrabber&utm_medium=shopping&utm_campaign=all%2Bproducts Mine would be the red one.

Which settings do i place the multimeter on and what spots on the board are safe to touch with it?

clutchc · Nov 20, 2013

First, make sure the meter has fresh batteries. You then would:
1) Keep the selector dial set at DCV 20
2) Plug the black lead into the COM terminal
3) Plug the red lead into the V Ω mA terminal

At the 24 pin connector on the MB, you should be able to poke the tip of the lead's probes into the exposed terminals on the back of the connector to get a reading. You have to contact the metal pins inside. Keep the blk lead on any blk wire. Use the red lead to read the different voltages while the system is on. Here is a pin out of the 24 pin socket:
http://image.pinout.net/pinout_13_pin_files/24-pin-atx-pinout.gif (Looking down on the back of the connector)

See how they correspond to the software readings. As long as you keep the meter on set to DCV, you won't hurt anything if you touch the wrong terminal.

After you're finished, shut down the system and unplug the 24 pin cable. Take a paper clip and short the green and black wire on the unplugged 24 pin connector temporarily. Then turn on the PSU. (The jumper will send a signal that allows the PSU to start). Check voltages again without it being connected to the MB. If the voltages are low, it is the PSU. If they are normal, I would feel the MB is the culprit.

z0mb13m4n · Nov 25, 2013

Well i did as you suggested, and thank you for the excellent information and guidance. It seems that the motherboard may be the culprit, the only voltage that seemed off was the blue, -12v. I'm not sure if that's an indicator, but both the 3.3v and 5v lines seemed perfectly fine when the PSU wasn't connected to the motherboard. Not to mention, the motherboard has a faulty RAM slot. Is there anything you think might be odd about the PSU because of the -12v blue wire being a bit high? it was --11.38 when i tested it. Although i still had the PSU connect to a DVD drive and two harddrives when i was testing. Just to be clear.

clutchc · Nov 25, 2013

the -12V should not read less than 12V, not that much anyway. But since the results were inconclusive, I'm not sure what to make of it. It's possible the PSU is failing and the board is fine. But I may have steered you wrong with my earlier statement. Just because the voltage is normal when disconnected from the MB, does not mean the MB is the culprit as I originally stated. The PSU could also be the problem; it just doesn't show up unless it has a 'load' on it. i.e. plugged into the MB. I wish you had another PSU to test with.

And even if both the PSU and MB were replaced, that doesn't mean that they were your stuttering problem. What is the make and model of your MB, CPU, and gfx card?

z0mb13m4n · Nov 28, 2013

MB is MSI MS-7350. CPU is a Intel Core 2 Duo E6750. And the Graphics Card is a nVidia GeForce 260 GTX. I'll test the PSU again sometime soon. I have other PSUs but none that can run 650W like the one i'm using. I only have a few 300W and 250W lying around. I could try plugging everything in but the 24 pin, and plug a different PSU into the 24 pin to test the load on the PSU. Would that be a good idea?

clutchc · Nov 28, 2013

As long as both PSUs are plugged into a common grounded outlet, I don't see any problem. But keep in mind that the PSU that is NOT plugged into the 24 pin header will need its green and black wires jumpered to turn on.

Another test would be to run everything off the regular PSU like normal... EXCEPT the Graphic Card's aux power. Get that from the 300W PSU.

clutchc · Nov 28, 2013

Is that MB also called the MSI P6N SLI?
http://eu.msi.com/product/mb/P6N-SLI-Platinum.html

Or is this a different board?

z0mb13m4n · Nov 30, 2013

Yes that is the same board.

z0mb13m4n · Dec 12, 2013

I got a new motherboard, and that seemed to have fixed the problem. Voltages are now running normal, and the ram slot that wasn't recognizing on the old board, works fine on the new board. Thanks Clutchc.

clutchc · Dec 13, 2013

Glad to hear you got the new MB. Expensive, but solves the problem.

dosel38 · Feb 8, 2014

clutchc :

Hardware monitor Fintek F71889A
Voltage 0 3.33 Volts [0xD0] (+3.3V)
Voltage 1 1.21 Volts [0x97] (CPU VCORE)
Voltage 3 1.40 Volts [0x77] (VIN3)
Voltage 4 5.76 Volts [0x89] (+5V)
Voltage 5 8.18 Volts [0x5D] (+12V)
Voltage 6 2.10 Volts [0x83] (VIN6)
Voltage 7 3.34 Volts [0xD1] (VSB3V)
Voltage 8 3.41 Volts [0xD5] (VBAT)
Temperature 0 32°C (89°F) [0x20] (TMPIN0)
Temperature 2 24°C (75°F) [0x18] (TMPIN2)
Fan 0 1068 RPM [0x57D] (FANIN0)
Fan PWM 0 35 pc [0x58] (CPU)
Fan PWM 1 65 pc [0xA6] (System Fan 1)
Fan PWM 2 65 pc [0xA6] (System Fan 2)
Register space LPC, base address = 0x0290

those are my voltages on an i5 3570k overclocked and getting dstuttering (even with non OC) Are my voltages ok?

clutchc · Feb 8, 2014

@dosel38
You really shouldn't hijack another poster's thread. But I'll just say that software voltage readings can be suspect. It's best to read them as outlined above. But from that voltage listing your presented, it is apparent that there is something wrong with the +12V rail. It is showing only 8.18V

If that is correct, your PSU is dying.

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