Fx6100 start problem

MMm sounds like your restarting in SAFE mode then when rebooting it resets it (normal not being in SAFE Mode) to normal Windows. Could you click the Orb, type in the run field msconfig and hit enter. Select Boot tab, and make sure the Boot Option SAFE BOOT is NOT checked. Then select Make All boot options permanent. Click OK and reboot. Then power down and try again. Does it now work?

Otherwise I would suspect that Windows either then need to do a system repair (insert the DVD and POWER UP the computer, select through BIOS to boot from DVD and run System Repair). If that doesn't do it, and you and your brother have the same problem, you can check for Malware (download and scan Malwarebytes), then run a AV Scan (highly suggest Avast or AVG both are free). The last thing I could then check for is the PSU. Yes the brand is relevent, as some 'cheap' power supplies are very poor quality and while may say 550W may actually be producing as low as 425.

Well if you both were infected by a virus / malware (your both on the 'same network') it is highly possible software wise to have the same problem. Also as you said you both have the same systems, so is why I asked about the PSU (you both have the same one) because yes the PSU undervolts (underpower) would cause data corrupting errors when 'powering up' the computer initially, and thus cause Windows to behave in the wrong matter. That it 'fixes' itself afterwards, we old timers used to call computers that did that needing time to 'warm up' like a car engine does, but modern computers don't need that 'warm up time'.

I was saying the 'description' of being in classic Windows can occur for only two reasons: 1) Safe mode (and by your response I am guessing you checked EXACTLy where I said and NO it isn't set for SafeMode) 2) the GPU is failing (needing time to 'warm up') and doesn't report itself 'initially' as the proper GPU (under device manager) and causes the system to default to more 'classic Windows' lower graphics level (basically running the VGA driver), WHICH Malware and Viruses also FAKE to make you do steps to 'fix it' that allow the Malware/virus even more access to damage things.

The last thing I would suggest would be to uninstall the GPU driver (help eliminate the software as a potential corrupt issue during boot), run DriverSweeper to totally eliminate ATI / AMD driver elements, reboot. Download and install the latest Catalyst (yes your repeating but the driversweeper part is to really remove all elements). Then see if it still has a issue or not.

If we have Malware scan clean, antivirus clean, driver cleanly reinstalled, Windows is system repair didn't find anything, all updates are installed otherwise, then it really looking like #2 GPu failing. To test that try with another video card and see if the problem persists.

I hear ya, so to first answer the picture difference; that is either a program like Black Glass (a program add on that add the 'glass look' http://curiouso9.deviantart.com/art/Black-Glass-Enhanced-v0-5-156752713) or the theme enabled from the 'default' blue opaque to the customized black one. I am aware that unless you 'hack' Windows to enable third party themes like with Universal Theme Changer that enable it, your stuck with the basic 'Visual Styles' which is the blue opaque.

Now please work with me as I describe my thoughts, when you 'first power on' or 'cold boot' all the parts of the computer are 'cold', no energy. But when your reboot, the parts already have power over them are fully 'charged'. If a component (say the GPU) is failing (on modern PCs) it can not fully 'power up' to enable proper "I am a 4830" but instead just identify itself as a 'Generic Video Card' when the system does POST and hands off to Windows. Windows then would respond by only loading the Generic Video Card drivers.

Malware (not detectable by antivirus) can replicate the same issues on a computer, but not actually 'damage' a computer (that is what antivirus looks for is 'damaging code') to then popup / open webpage to tell you your computer is infected and you need to download/pay for the 'repair' (normally, sometimes it doesn't pop up at all but you still have the malware messing with it). Malware will 'worm' (seek open communications ports from one system to another, like HomeGroup) to 'spread' to other systems, and I have witnessed this myself that while your cleaning one machine another is spreading it, by the time you get to it, it has reinfected the ones you just cleaned. You need to run two different AntiMalware software (the best and most relied on is Malwarebytes) to scan a system to find the 'non damaging' code, because Antivirus will never pick it up.

Now you did say "If i open a game i get random frameskips and i understand that my pc isnt working normaly BUT if i restart my pc then the problem is fixed and my pc is NORMAL", so this can be EITHER, under Device Manager (when you have the cold boot 'bad Windows') you will see the video card isn't detected correctly, the Task Manager is busy with 'another task' or the Malware is hidden enough that it just causing problems (not showing CPU intensive on Task Manager). ** The first things to knock off the list of potential problems **

But then your saying "BUT if i restart my pc then the problem is fixed and my pc is NORMAL,But only if i restart it,If i shutdown it and turn it on again then the problem appears again". Well this can be masked by the two issues I outlined, but if not those issues, then we need to look at Undervoltage and the RAM. In both cases the PSU (if not fully energizing) would undervolt across the system and cause similiar glitches repeatedly till the PSU 'warms up' (fully energizes), so while looking at software, HDD, video card, etc. as the problem, it actually stems from the source component that powers ALL those. The second cause can be bad RAM (seen this in several of these threads lately), that as the 'code' is loaded to be passed to the CPU BEFORE the GPU or anything else can see it, it is corrupted, and passing along 'garbage' till the system is 'reenergized'. The symptom that when everything is 'cold' started it doesn't work, but when 'warm' restarted it does also CAN indicate this issue.

In both of these SECOND things to knock off the list of potential problems, the solutions would be 1) take out the memory one RAM, then cold boot, does it now work right. Try with one less (some people might have 1GB RAM sticks) and so on. If they have only 2 sticks (2GB) then try with just one stick at a time. then try different slots. If in all cases no difference, then you need to look at the PSU, the 'easiest' way to test this is to use a spare PSU sitting outside the case, plugged in and see if it suddenly changes. If then when you cold boot it works right then the PSU is failing.

Lastly, if you performed ALL this, and your still having issues, then we need to look at the CPU/MOBO (which your both have the same model). #1 check for updated BIOS? Could there been a BIOS fix to resolve a similiar issue? #2 try plugging in this video card/HDD in a different computer (or just the HDD) and does it happen on that computer then? If it does then the problem is solely on the Mobo, if not then we isolated either the HDD is failing (the data when loaded to the RAM to then go to the CPU is corrupted) or Windows needs a complete clean install (use DBAN to wipe the drive then install Windows clean, drivers, etc.).

Based on your response, I would suggest 1st breadboarding the computer. Take the whole thing apart, lay on wood/cardboard box the Mobo. Reseat the CPU, put in the one RAM stick (would be better to test with a second one), add GPU and HDD, then plug the power cables and power switch. Power on, do you get the problem (we are powering up) just like this? If not then the case maybe (and had bad shorted cases before) the cause. IF you still have a problem, then only these parts are the issue you laid out.

Your testing by swapping HDD and GPUs, eliminated those from the issue. I am assuming you also did a full DBAN wipe and reinstalled Windows SINCE this has been having a problem? If not then I would try that next.

If your still having a problem the last components are the CPU, RAM and PSU (because a CLEAN reinstall on a different HDD eliminated software - Windows - as the issue). Is why I suggested RAM testing as I did, because next (as I mentioned ) is the CPU/Mobo or the PSU and YES, you both you and your bro can have similiar issues on the PSUs because it could been a spike in the middle of the night damaged both PSUs or any number of other ways (touching the case without grounding first) it can happen independently but still the same result.

The process I outlined is the methodology to eliminate each part (just as I explained here) to narrow down what it "isn't", leaves YES it had to be these last things 'left'.