Help with custom liquid cooling?
Tags:
-
Overclocking
- Water Cooling
Last response: in Overclocking
PCnooberson
December 11, 2013 3:03:56 PM
Unfortunately, i have realised that if i want to run 2 or 3 way sli, as well as overclocking, i will need a custom liquid cooling system to keep them cool.
I Never really wanted to do custom loops because im afraid of spills. Like TERRIBLY afraid.
Just how safe are custom loops? Keep in mind that i am a big noob when it comes to pc stuff, so im afraid i might not even install it right, or end up breaking something...
Also, i cant cheap out here, because if i do, it can cost me my entire rig. What are the best ways to go? Coolents? Tubing? kits? Etc? I honestly needs you ncie people to tell me as much as you can.
Whats the most expensive? cheapest? differences? Whats the most important part? What is the best way to prevent spills?
What about radiators? Arents custom loop radiators like super thick?
Could you point me to some high quality custom loops, raditors, or maybe even whole kits? Thanks in advance.
My case is the CM Storm Stryker by the way.
I Never really wanted to do custom loops because im afraid of spills. Like TERRIBLY afraid.
Just how safe are custom loops? Keep in mind that i am a big noob when it comes to pc stuff, so im afraid i might not even install it right, or end up breaking something...
Also, i cant cheap out here, because if i do, it can cost me my entire rig. What are the best ways to go? Coolents? Tubing? kits? Etc? I honestly needs you ncie people to tell me as much as you can.
Whats the most expensive? cheapest? differences? Whats the most important part? What is the best way to prevent spills?
What about radiators? Arents custom loop radiators like super thick?
Could you point me to some high quality custom loops, raditors, or maybe even whole kits? Thanks in advance.
My case is the CM Storm Stryker by the way.
More about : custom liquid cooling
PCnooberson
December 11, 2013 3:08:38 PM
vmem said:
if you're that afraid of liquid cooling, why not get a good air-cooling case?people have done ridiculous things with specialized cases such as the silverstone Raven 02, or the more expensive fortress-02
Because if i run sli, with that little space in between, im sure its going to get hot. I want to keep them cool for longer life and performance. Not only that, i would like to overclock, and air cooling can only get you so far.
m
0
l
Related resources
- I need help with my first custom liquid cooling - Forum
- Custom Liquid cooling help please? - Forum
- HELP! 4770k HOT with custom liquid cooling (after delidding too) - Forum
- Need help constructing a custom liquid cooling loop. - Forum
- Need Help With Custom Liquid Cooling - Forum
this review says not:
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4620/silverstone-fortress...
granted it's using old GPUs: a pair of 580s, but those things are horribly hot and a pair of gtx 580s ran just fine overclocked in a FT02.
you're right that air can only get so far, but it is a good enough solution in a proper set up. if you're determined to jump on the watercooling boat, I'd recommend reading the sticky first
update: NZXT came out with something called a G10 bracket for watercooling GPUs using closed-loop CPU coolers. seems like a good compromise for your situation
http://www.anandtech.com/show/4620/silverstone-fortress...
granted it's using old GPUs: a pair of 580s, but those things are horribly hot and a pair of gtx 580s ran just fine overclocked in a FT02.
you're right that air can only get so far, but it is a good enough solution in a proper set up. if you're determined to jump on the watercooling boat, I'd recommend reading the sticky first
update: NZXT came out with something called a G10 bracket for watercooling GPUs using closed-loop CPU coolers. seems like a good compromise for your situation
m
0
l
PCnooberson
December 11, 2013 3:35:32 PM
vmem said:
this review says not:http://www.anandtech.com/show/4620/silverstone-fortress...
granted it's using old GPUs: a pair of 580s, but those things are horribly hot and a pair of gtx 580s ran just fine overclocked in a FT02.
you're right that air can only get so far, but it is a good enough solution in a proper set up. if you're determined to jump on the watercooling boat, I'd recommend reading the sticky first
update: NZXT came out with something called a G10 bracket for watercooling GPUs using closed-loop CPU coolers. seems like a good compromise for your situation
I planned on getting the g10, but those take up 3 slots, so no 3 way sli.
m
0
l
alright, as long as you're sure that you want to jump on the wateryride
first things first, have you built a custom PC before? if not (or if it was a long time ago), refreshing yourself on that helps. In addition, you want to own/buy all the parts you want, put it together (air-cooled), and test everything and make sure they're in good condition before you start adding the liquid cooling gear. this is especially important for GPUs as you're technically voiding your warranty by putting on water-cooling gear (policy varies from company to company and card to card, check if your GPU comes with 'void if removed or damaged' stickers on its screws)
now, let's tackle your biggest fear: leak. there are two things you must know: Leaks CAN happen, and proper testing SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCES the risk, but does not remove it entirely. the most common source of leak is of course at the joints and you need to decide if you want to use a barbed connector vs compression. in all honestly compression looks better but I've always felt safer with barbs as you can see whether or not you've made a full seal. that aside, it can be a good idea to assemble your full loop outside of your components, 'hot-wire' your PSU's mobo plug to start your loop, and run it upto a day to check for leaks. if nothing bad happens, you now know you can assemble the thing properly, and can proceed to mount everything. afterwards you should check for leaks again, and god forbid if a leak does occur, immediately turn off and unplug everything, dry all components, and sometimes baking it on low heat (maybe 135-150 degree F) in a oven will help get rid of all remaining moisture.
first things first, have you built a custom PC before? if not (or if it was a long time ago), refreshing yourself on that helps. In addition, you want to own/buy all the parts you want, put it together (air-cooled), and test everything and make sure they're in good condition before you start adding the liquid cooling gear. this is especially important for GPUs as you're technically voiding your warranty by putting on water-cooling gear (policy varies from company to company and card to card, check if your GPU comes with 'void if removed or damaged' stickers on its screws)
now, let's tackle your biggest fear: leak. there are two things you must know: Leaks CAN happen, and proper testing SIGNIFICANTLY REDUCES the risk, but does not remove it entirely. the most common source of leak is of course at the joints and you need to decide if you want to use a barbed connector vs compression. in all honestly compression looks better but I've always felt safer with barbs as you can see whether or not you've made a full seal. that aside, it can be a good idea to assemble your full loop outside of your components, 'hot-wire' your PSU's mobo plug to start your loop, and run it upto a day to check for leaks. if nothing bad happens, you now know you can assemble the thing properly, and can proceed to mount everything. afterwards you should check for leaks again, and god forbid if a leak does occur, immediately turn off and unplug everything, dry all components, and sometimes baking it on low heat (maybe 135-150 degree F) in a oven will help get rid of all remaining moisture.
m
0
l
as for coolants, distilled water plus a kill coil is the way to go. don't add any weird dyes or fancy additives, the majority of them only make your loop more complicated and cause clogging in the long run (not to mention ruin your water blocks).
Most of the tubing on the market is perfectly fine. what you should do is buy something like a kit with a D5 or other good pump, and then buy a few more radiators and waterblocks for your GPUs
FYI, you'll want a MUCH bigger case such as a corsair 900D if you want to run triple SLI and have enough rads to properly cool everything. you may also need a fairly complex loop. in generally, it is best to plan ahead when water-cooling as the idea of "adding another GPU for more performance" becomes not so simple since you have to drain your entire loop, add the new card into the loop, fill the loop again and redo leak testing.
Most of the tubing on the market is perfectly fine. what you should do is buy something like a kit with a D5 or other good pump, and then buy a few more radiators and waterblocks for your GPUs
FYI, you'll want a MUCH bigger case such as a corsair 900D if you want to run triple SLI and have enough rads to properly cool everything. you may also need a fairly complex loop. in generally, it is best to plan ahead when water-cooling as the idea of "adding another GPU for more performance" becomes not so simple since you have to drain your entire loop, add the new card into the loop, fill the loop again and redo leak testing.
m
0
l
PCnooberson
December 11, 2013 4:25:12 PM
vmem said:
as for coolants, distilled water plus a kill coil is the way to go. don't add any weird dyes or fancy additives, the majority of them only make your loop more complicated and cause clogging in the long run (not to mention ruin your water blocks). Most of the tubing on the market is perfectly fine. what you should do is buy something like a kit with a D5 or other good pump, and then buy a few more radiators and waterblocks for your GPUs
FYI, you'll want a MUCH bigger case such as a corsair 900D if you want to run triple SLI and have enough rads to properly cool everything. you may also need a fairly complex loop. in generally, it is best to plan ahead when water-cooling as the idea of "adding another GPU for more performance" becomes not so simple since you have to drain your entire loop, add the new card into the loop, fill the loop again and redo leak testing.
first off, what is a kill coil? I have never heard of that? And what do you think is better, and what are some of the higher quality parts? Like brands and specs.
Secondly, what is there to cool? Theres the gpu, cpu, but what else? (im a noob). Are things like ram, hard drives, etc left to fend for themselves?
And if the major heat sources are liquid cooled, wouldnt it be fine to have a radiator on the bottom as an intake? I read of stories where the air would actually come up fairly cool.
m
0
l
Best solution
a kill coil is basically a piece of pure silver. the silver will slowly leech into the water in your cooling loop, killing any bacteria in there.
honestly you should read some of the threads here: especially the 'guild for noobs' it will answer a lot of your questions
http://www.overclock.net/t/226970/updated-water-cooling...
and yes, the rest of your system: motherboard components, ram, harddrive, are all left to fend for themselves. which is generally fine. none of them run that hot anyway without the CPU and GPUs heating up the air inside your case.
With proper cooling, your load temperatures would be something like 40 C or so. in this case, it is perfectly fine to have a radiator on the bottom as an intake, since the air passing through it shouldn't exceed 40C
honestly you should read some of the threads here: especially the 'guild for noobs' it will answer a lot of your questions
http://www.overclock.net/t/226970/updated-water-cooling...
and yes, the rest of your system: motherboard components, ram, harddrive, are all left to fend for themselves. which is generally fine. none of them run that hot anyway without the CPU and GPUs heating up the air inside your case.
With proper cooling, your load temperatures would be something like 40 C or so. in this case, it is perfectly fine to have a radiator on the bottom as an intake, since the air passing through it shouldn't exceed 40C
Share
PCnooberson
December 11, 2013 5:04:57 PM
vmem said:
a kill coil is basically a piece of pure silver. the silver will slowly leech into the water in your cooling loop, killing any bacteria in there. honestly you should read some of the threads here: especially the 'guild for noobs' it will answer a lot of your questions
http://www.overclock.net/t/226970/updated-water-cooling...
and yes, the rest of your system: motherboard components, ram, harddrive, are all left to fend for themselves. which is generally fine. none of them run that hot anyway without the CPU and GPUs heating up the air inside your case.
With proper cooling, your load temperatures would be something like 40 C or so. in this case, it is perfectly fine to have a radiator on the bottom as an intake, since the air passing through it shouldn't exceed 40C
Ok, i think i got the basics from that thread, but seeing that it was from 2 years ago, im sure alot of better parts have come out. Could you specify the higher quality tubes, koolents, fittings, coils, pumps, radiators, and reservoirs?
m
0
l
Alright, sorry about the late reply, life interrupts
anyway, as I mentioned before, I think the easiest way is for you to get a kit to kick things off (since you don't have anything so far), and then add pieces from there. I really like some of the EK kits (one of the top brands in water cooling): http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-h3o-360...
I also rather like the swiftech kit featured here: http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-h2o-320-elite-series-tri...
as for shopping, aside from the usual newegg and amazon, places like xoxide and frozencpu are some of my favorite places to buy liquid cooling components from.
at the end of the day, you'd be surprised how little liquid cooling has changed in 2 years. or maybe not. old favorites such as the cooler master hyper 212 still does very well in the air cooling world. in the end, liquid cooling depends on properties of physics which doesn't really change over time.
BTW, EK swiftech both make good waterblocks for the GPU, which ultimately leads us to:
you want to make a diagram and plan out how you may want to run your loop before you actually start shopping. I personally I believe a decent 240mm x 120mm radiator is enough to dissapate about 200W worth of heat, so if you want to go triple SLI and overclock a CPU, you'll want something like 8-10 times 120mm by 120mm worth of radiator space. which means, again, your current case will not cut it unless you run radiators external to the case
anyway, as I mentioned before, I think the easiest way is for you to get a kit to kick things off (since you don't have anything so far), and then add pieces from there. I really like some of the EK kits (one of the top brands in water cooling): http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-h3o-360...
I also rather like the swiftech kit featured here: http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-h2o-320-elite-series-tri...
as for shopping, aside from the usual newegg and amazon, places like xoxide and frozencpu are some of my favorite places to buy liquid cooling components from.
at the end of the day, you'd be surprised how little liquid cooling has changed in 2 years. or maybe not. old favorites such as the cooler master hyper 212 still does very well in the air cooling world. in the end, liquid cooling depends on properties of physics which doesn't really change over time.
BTW, EK swiftech both make good waterblocks for the GPU, which ultimately leads us to:
you want to make a diagram and plan out how you may want to run your loop before you actually start shopping. I personally I believe a decent 240mm x 120mm radiator is enough to dissapate about 200W worth of heat, so if you want to go triple SLI and overclock a CPU, you'll want something like 8-10 times 120mm by 120mm worth of radiator space. which means, again, your current case will not cut it unless you run radiators external to the case
m
0
l
PCnooberson
December 11, 2013 8:40:11 PM
vmem said:
Alright, sorry about the late reply, life interrupts
anyway, as I mentioned before, I think the easiest way is for you to get a kit to kick things off (since you don't have anything so far), and then add pieces from there. I really like some of the EK kits (one of the top brands in water cooling): http://www.ekwb.com/shop/kits-cases/kits/ek-kit-h3o-360...
I also rather like the swiftech kit featured here: http://www.xoxide.com/swiftech-h2o-320-elite-series-tri...
as for shopping, aside from the usual newegg and amazon, places like xoxide and frozencpu are some of my favorite places to buy liquid cooling components from.
at the end of the day, you'd be surprised how little liquid cooling has changed in 2 years. or maybe not. old favorites such as the cooler master hyper 212 still does very well in the air cooling world. in the end, liquid cooling depends on properties of physics which doesn't really change over time.
BTW, EK swiftech both make good waterblocks for the GPU, which ultimately leads us to:
you want to make a diagram and plan out how you may want to run your loop before you actually start shopping. I personally I believe a decent 240mm x 120mm radiator is enough to dissapate about 200W worth of heat, so if you want to go triple SLI and overclock a CPU, you'll want something like 8-10 times 120mm by 120mm worth of radiator space. which means, again, your current case will not cut it unless you run radiators external to the case
Wait? Are you saying I need 8 120mm radiators to cool this? Seems a little excessive doesn't it? I looked at kits, and if your saying I need so much cooling power, none of them really provide.
I have made my sketch here: http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-1925408/custom-l...
If you could give me feedback on that?
However, Im only using arond 700mm worth of rad, which is around 2 120mm rads short than what you said...so im not sure if it'll do. (The bottom radiator is a really thick one, not sure if that impacts anything. The top and side ones are 34mm thick)
m
0
l
yes, I am saying you need 8 120mm radiators to achieve the kind of cooling a good loop will provide (aka around 40-45 C load temperature). if you're going to leave load temps at around 60C, it's honestly not that different from just getting a nice air-cooled build. I'm saying that you can buy a kit, then by additional rads until you have enough radiator space.
also, I would point out the same thing that others have pointed out in your other thread: you want at least your fat 280mm rad between the CPU and GPU cooling loops. I would predict your load temps to be a bit on the higher side: 50 C ish. which I guess is acceptable.
also, listen to toolmaker, that guy really knows his stuff
also, I would point out the same thing that others have pointed out in your other thread: you want at least your fat 280mm rad between the CPU and GPU cooling loops. I would predict your load temps to be a bit on the higher side: 50 C ish. which I guess is acceptable.
also, listen to toolmaker, that guy really knows his stuff
m
0
l
PCnooberson
December 13, 2013 9:17:14 PM
vmem said:
yes, I am saying you need 8 120mm radiators to achieve the kind of cooling a good loop will provide (aka around 40-45 C load temperature). if you're going to leave load temps at around 60C, it's honestly not that different from just getting a nice air-cooled build. I'm saying that you can buy a kit, then by additional rads until you have enough radiator space. also, I would point out the same thing that others have pointed out in your other thread: you want at least your fat 280mm rad between the CPU and GPU cooling loops. I would predict your load temps to be a bit on the higher side: 50 C ish. which I guess is acceptable.
also, listen to toolmaker, that guy really knows his stuff
But in my sketch, the fat rad IS between the gpu and cpu. It goes from the res to the gpus, then to the fat rad to dissipate the heat. Then to the cpu, and the 420 rad (280+140) to cool off, then starting over to the gpu. So do you mean something im not understanding by saying the fat one should be between the gpu and cpu?
As for 8 120mm rads, i honestly dont see any more space in my case for rads, but my case does have 3 holes in the back, where i guess i can have a radiator outsie the case. Possibly a thick 480 rad. This should be more than exceptional right? since its in total 1180mm worth of rad space, or almost 10 120mm rads.
m
0
l
Ahh, my bad, I misread your diagram
it comes down to how cool do you want your components to run. there's nothing wrong with your current set up, but you'll need slightly higher fan speeds (especially on the fat rad) to get efficient cooling. at the end of the day, your don't have a bad set up in your current diagram. you can set it up and see how you like it. if you want it to run cooler/quieter, you can always add the rad in the back later
it comes down to how cool do you want your components to run. there's nothing wrong with your current set up, but you'll need slightly higher fan speeds (especially on the fat rad) to get efficient cooling. at the end of the day, your don't have a bad set up in your current diagram. you can set it up and see how you like it. if you want it to run cooler/quieter, you can always add the rad in the back later
m
0
l
That is a lot of components for one pump to push water through, in fact, one pump cannot do that by itself in a serial loop setup the flow will be to slow and cause all of the components after the first to become hotter than they should with the hardware you have, but by paralleling some of the components together, it is possible to get all of your hardware on one loop, with one pump, if you would like some help with a configuration setup for your components, let me know
m
0
l
toolmaker_03 said:
That is a lot of components for one pump to push water through, in fact, one pump cannot do that by itself in a serial loop setup the flow will be to slow and cause all of the components after the first to become hotter than they should with the hardware you have, but by paralleling some of the components together, it is possible to get all of your hardware on one loop, with one pump, if you would like some help with a configuration setup for your components, let me knowthat's actually something I've been meaning to ask you about (since you're conveniently popped over).
I understand that in a parallel set up there are essentially more tuber space for liquid to flow through, thus resistance is lowered and making it possible for one pump to pump the liquid through. however, isn't the overall flow rate still the same and limited by the single pump? forgive me if my physics is wrong
m
0
l
PCnooberson
December 14, 2013 2:19:19 PM
Honestly, im free to put up any changes i need.
You guys say it needs more rad space for efficient cooling, so along with 2 280mm rads, and a 140mm rad, Im completely fine with having a 480mm rad running outside the case.
Ill run parallel, because not only does it less restrict the flow, but (if i did my research right) it cools it a few degrees better.
As for the second pump, do i need a second reservoir and second set of tubing? Or can i just pop in the second pump somewhere in the middle of the loop?
Edit: actually, i now think i do need a second set, because i cant let the pump run dry, correct?
Can you perhaps write down the best order to have both loops running? This is what I atleast thought.
![]()
Now i know it looks very chaotic, but its the best i could think of. The GPUs are going to give out alot more heat that the cpu (i think) so i had the external 480mm rad connected to the gpu loop.
However, im still unsure about this whole parallel thing. Not sure if i drew it right. Which one is it like?
You guys say it needs more rad space for efficient cooling, so along with 2 280mm rads, and a 140mm rad, Im completely fine with having a 480mm rad running outside the case.
Ill run parallel, because not only does it less restrict the flow, but (if i did my research right) it cools it a few degrees better.
As for the second pump, do i need a second reservoir and second set of tubing? Or can i just pop in the second pump somewhere in the middle of the loop?
Edit: actually, i now think i do need a second set, because i cant let the pump run dry, correct?
Can you perhaps write down the best order to have both loops running? This is what I atleast thought.

Now i know it looks very chaotic, but its the best i could think of. The GPUs are going to give out alot more heat that the cpu (i think) so i had the external 480mm rad connected to the gpu loop.
However, im still unsure about this whole parallel thing. Not sure if i drew it right. Which one is it like?
m
0
l
vmem said:
toolmaker_03 said:
That is a lot of components for one pump to push water through, in fact, one pump cannot do that by itself in a serial loop setup the flow will be to slow and cause all of the components after the first to become hotter than they should with the hardware you have, but by paralleling some of the components together, it is possible to get all of your hardware on one loop, with one pump, if you would like some help with a configuration setup for your components, let me knowthat's actually something I've been meaning to ask you about (since you're conveniently popped over).
I understand that in a parallel set up there are essentially more tuber space for liquid to flow through, thus resistance is lowered and making it possible for one pump to pump the liquid through. however, isn't the overall flow rate still the same and limited by the single pump? forgive me if my physics is wrong
I will try to explain what I have seen from my own experience I will put this on a RPM scale a single D5 pump can run at 8000RPM with nothing on the loop but the pump and flow meter.
Most components today are designed to restrict the flow rate through them down to about 2200RPM
So a 3-way parallel setup on components will give the highest system flow rate without dropping the flow through any of the 3 components.
That is the basics any way
I will have mine up in a week or so with 3 radiators and 8 blocks total I will show results of having one pump to handle it all, and flows, but the most important will be the temps, if they stay low than the theory will be proven by in field experience.
m
0
l
ahh, I see. by that logic it's the component restricting the flow that is the limiting factor here, not the D5 pump's output rate (at least not until you're running four or more loops in parallel). that clears it up well.
Yes, I will look forward to the field test. but the theory seems sound (at least as long as you're not running anything viscous inside)
Yes, I will look forward to the field test. but the theory seems sound (at least as long as you're not running anything viscous inside)
m
0
l
@PCnooberson
I would wait for toolmaker to get back with his parallel loop test before deciding if you need to run a second loop on a second pump. also, running things is parallel will allow you to better control the temps because all your GPUs will be cooled from water of the same temperature, and not heated water from the last GPU
I would wait for toolmaker to get back with his parallel loop test before deciding if you need to run a second loop on a second pump. also, running things is parallel will allow you to better control the temps because all your GPUs will be cooled from water of the same temperature, and not heated water from the last GPU
m
0
l
PCnooberson
December 15, 2013 6:34:35 PM
PCnooberson
December 27, 2013 11:44:27 AM
toolmaker_03 said:
the temps after several hours of game play
I think that it seems to work fine I did need two pumps to keep the flow rate up on the system but other than that small change in the configuration of the system, it works great
After some thinking, I really don't want to run 2 seperate loops, because I feel like one isn't getting enough cooling.
What are the disadvantages and advantages of running 1 vs 2 loops?
Because generally, with a single loops, the order doesn't matter too much, and all components are pretty much sharing all the radiators.
http://www.swiftech.com/mcp35x2pump.aspx
MCP35X2
Ive been looking at this pump, because supposedly its "extreme" and is supposed to be used with things like quad sli. I know its 200, but really, its the same as having 2 mcp655. However, it didnt say how many radiators it can handle. I know this is a matter of pressure, but the radiators and everything never specify how much restriction it adds.
Im really confused on this psi stuff.
The MCP655 says it has a maximum PSI of 50 (3.5)bar while the "extreme" pump, the MCP35x2 has a maximum psi of only 22, but (1.5 bar)
What does bar mean? Is the pressure on the MCP35x2 really better? How can i calculate how much restriction, or how much pressure i need to efficiently run my loop over the 1.0 gpm....(if i did my research right)
m
0
l
I have always tried to work out how to make systems work better, I had intended on running 3 loops on this rig but after many nights of dreaming about this setup I decided top try one loop for all the hardware. this idea did work but it did take a lot of fittings to make it in such a way that the flows through the system would not be restricted. I have a total system flow of 6200RPM or 6.2 LPM if I had not paralleled this system the way I did that high of a flow rate would not be possible. so the advantage of running a 2 or 3 loop system would be the ease of configuration, it could be all in piped serial with each other. what is the fun in that, I like a good challenge so the difficulty in figuring out the right configuration for my hardware was a lot of fun for me, but really there is no advantage to doing things the way I did the results would had been the same as far as temps go I do not believe that one way works better over the other, only differently.
m
0
l
PCnooberson
December 27, 2013 7:15:15 PM
Pressure wise, how do you know how much you need to get a good flow rate? Is there like a universal calculation kind of thing? Like size, thickness, and fpi. How would i know how much pressure i need to run through it good?
When i look at pumps and their psi, they have the measurement, and BAR in parenthesis. What is bar?
Im a real noob when it comes to this stuff, so if you could give me all the info i need, i would really appreciate it.
When i look at pumps and their psi, they have the measurement, and BAR in parenthesis. What is bar?
Im a real noob when it comes to this stuff, so if you could give me all the info i need, i would really appreciate it.
m
0
l
well I know that a single MPC655 pump will produce 50psi and that is enough for two components and one radiator in series or in parallel it can handle two components and two radiators. any more than that the system will need two pumps. I have one pump before the radiators and the second is right after the radiators. the same setup would apply to a serial system you would want the pumps as far apart from each other as possible, having both the pumps right next to each other does not do much good for the system, but if they are a half loop apart from each other, the system will benefit from the second pump regardless if it is serial or parallel, because it will provide that extra bit of pressure to the loop. keeping a good flow for the system.
a good flow for a serial system would be 2200RPM's or 2.2LPM
a good flow for a two way parallel setup would be 4400RPM's or 4.4LPM
a good flow for a three way parallel setup would be 6600RPM's or 6.6LPM
if you have noticed throughout my builds I have always tried to achieve these numbers even though it is not possible, getting close is, and will give you the best results.
I hope this helps
I went with a parallel setup for two reasons one I did not like the idea of running hot water from one component to the next, the second reason is for the fun factor, and being able to say hay my system runs at 6200RPM's it jest sounds so cool.
but really, I think that if I had run 3 separate loops for this system the temps would had been about the same.
a good flow for a serial system would be 2200RPM's or 2.2LPM
a good flow for a two way parallel setup would be 4400RPM's or 4.4LPM
a good flow for a three way parallel setup would be 6600RPM's or 6.6LPM
if you have noticed throughout my builds I have always tried to achieve these numbers even though it is not possible, getting close is, and will give you the best results.
I hope this helps
I went with a parallel setup for two reasons one I did not like the idea of running hot water from one component to the next, the second reason is for the fun factor, and being able to say hay my system runs at 6200RPM's it jest sounds so cool.
but really, I think that if I had run 3 separate loops for this system the temps would had been about the same.
m
0
l

I do not play the army games much, but I do like colors, lots of colors, here is how my system runs the type of games that I do like to play and to be honest these games will get the system hotter than BF3 or others of the same sort Darksiders 1 & 2 will heat any system up to benchmark temps at times during gameplay.
m
0
l
oajarmeh95
December 28, 2013 6:39:17 AM
Why you don't use a sealed water cooling kit like corsair h100i or cooler master seidon 240 if you worried about the custom cooling kit it's more safe, stable, and no need a lot of space (I use it in my case and it's look more tidy).
by the way if you really want a custom water cooling kit you should EK waterblocks or XSPC i think they the best but for the price EK is more expensive than XSPC.
Now here are some part you can buy them from performance-pcs.com :
Water block: XSPC Raystorm
Radiator*: EK-CoolStream RAD XT (240) OR XSPC AX240 Dual-Fan Radiator
Tubing: PrimoFlex Advanced LRT and for more safety you should use anti-kink coils
Fittings**: You can choose it either from EK or XSPC. (I prefer EK) .
Reservoir: This is your choice too, it counted on what parts are water cooled then you determine the volume.
pump: EK-DCP 4.0 (12V DC Water Pump) OR XSPC DDC-1T Plus 3.2 (18W) Pump
***************************
* these radiators for extreme performance, if you want to save more money you can choose a lower quality than these rads from the same brands.
**use of compression fittings and O-rings is more safety.
-for the tubing thick it depends on the case space and the cooled parts, of course the fittings size will be chosen to fit in the tubing.
I hope that would Help !!!
by the way if you really want a custom water cooling kit you should EK waterblocks or XSPC i think they the best but for the price EK is more expensive than XSPC.
Now here are some part you can buy them from performance-pcs.com :
Water block: XSPC Raystorm
Radiator*: EK-CoolStream RAD XT (240) OR XSPC AX240 Dual-Fan Radiator
Tubing: PrimoFlex Advanced LRT and for more safety you should use anti-kink coils
Fittings**: You can choose it either from EK or XSPC. (I prefer EK) .
Reservoir: This is your choice too, it counted on what parts are water cooled then you determine the volume.
pump: EK-DCP 4.0 (12V DC Water Pump) OR XSPC DDC-1T Plus 3.2 (18W) Pump
***************************
* these radiators for extreme performance, if you want to save more money you can choose a lower quality than these rads from the same brands.
**use of compression fittings and O-rings is more safety.
-for the tubing thick it depends on the case space and the cooled parts, of course the fittings size will be chosen to fit in the tubing.
I hope that would Help !!!
m
0
l
PCnooberson
December 28, 2013 12:03:24 PM
toolmaker_03 said:
well I know that a single MPC655 pump will produce 50psi and that is enough for two components and one radiator in series or in parallel it can handle two components and two radiators. any more than that the system will need two pumps. I have one pump before the radiators and the second is right after the radiators. the same setup would apply to a serial system you would want the pumps as far apart from each other as possible, having both the pumps right next to each other does not do much good for the system, but if they are a half loop apart from each other, the system will benefit from the second pump regardless if it is serial or parallel, because it will provide that extra bit of pressure to the loop. keeping a good flow for the system. a good flow for a serial system would be 2200RPM's or 2.2LPM
a good flow for a two way parallel setup would be 4400RPM's or 4.4LPM
a good flow for a three way parallel setup would be 6600RPM's or 6.6LPM
if you have noticed throughout my builds I have always tried to achieve these numbers even though it is not possible, getting close is, and will give you the best results.
I hope this helps
I went with a parallel setup for two reasons one I did not like the idea of running hot water from one component to the next, the second reason is for the fun factor, and being able to say hay my system runs at 6200RPM's it jest sounds so cool.
but really, I think that if I had run 3 separate loops for this system the temps would had been about the same.
But how do i get that good flow rate?
I will run in parallel, for better cooling
also run through the cpu
and im going to have 4 radiators. Does thickness and size matter restriction wise?
Plus, its is going to be a pretty lengthy journey for the water, considering that i will be having an external rad, and radiators pretty much on all ends of the chassis.
How do i know how much PSI a pump needs for this? And whats the deal with bar? whats that mean? The supposed "extreme" mcp35x2 is for cpu+multiple radiator+triple/quad sli. But its PSI is 22. Isnt that lower than the mcp655? but the bar on the mcp35x2 is 3.5 while the 655 is 1.5. What does bar mean?
m
0
l
with your setup I would have a two radiators in parallel with the other two radiators place one pump before the radiators and the other pump after the radiators.
how many components do you plan to cool?
the type of blocks that you buy will matter to the final configuration of your build.
look for blocks that have a pin or grove matrix inside of them that the water is forced to pass through.
how many components do you plan to cool?
the type of blocks that you buy will matter to the final configuration of your build.
look for blocks that have a pin or grove matrix inside of them that the water is forced to pass through.
m
0
l
PCnooberson
December 28, 2013 2:25:37 PM
What do you mean by having the radiators in parallel?
These are the items i was planning on getting:
Waterblocks:
Apogee HD (fin/pin matrix)
http://www.swiftech.com/ApogeeHD.aspx
EK-FC780 GTX Ti - Acetal (didnt see anything regarding the matrix)
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc780-gtx-ti-acetal.html
EK-FC Bridge TRIPLE Paralle
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-blo...
EK-FC Terminal TRIPLE Parallel
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/blocks/vga-blocks/multiple-blo...
Im not sure what the difference is between the bridge and terminal, and what is a blank? do i need that? Do the parallel things need the pin matrix design too?
Radiators:
Black Ice® GTX Gen Two Xtreme 480 Highest Performance Radiator (480mm-54mm thick- 20 FPI)
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catalog/index.php?main_p...
EK-CoolStream RAD XTX (240) (240mm-64mm thick-11 FPI)
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/radiators-fans-accessories/rad...
MCRx40-QP "Quiet Power" 280mm Radiator (280mm-34mm thick-12 FPI)
http://www.swiftech.com/mcrx40-qp-radiator-series.aspx
MCRx20-XP "eXtreme Performance" Radiator Series (120mm-34mm thick- 20 FPI)
http://www.swiftech.com/mcrx20-xp-radiator-series-1.asp...
So this is all for 3 cards and CPU. no motherboard or ram or harddrive or whatever else.
As for the pump, I was planning on
MCP35X2
http://www.swiftech.com/mcp35x2pump.aspx
because it is "extreme" and meant to "provide extreme flow rates in loops that include multiple devices, for example multiple radiators and triple or quad SLI/Crossfire liquid cooled graphics cards"
The PSI is 22 PSI (1.5 BAR), and i would really appreciate it if you told me what BAR means.
It has a "max nominal discharge" of ~ 4.17 GPM (15.8 LPM)
Would it be better to run one of these (if it is enough) or 2 MCP655s? (price is the same)
And keep in mind that the water has a long way to travel to get around everything.
Thanks for the help too.
m
0
l
the MPC35x2 seems to put out about the same as two MPC655 placed right next to each other, but I would rather have my pumps as far apart from each other in the loop as possible. so I would use two separate pumps for that reason, but if space was a issue, then I would opt for the MPC35X2 as a solution to that problem.
m
0
l


http://imageshack.com/a/img35/8895/modular004.jpg
this is how I was cooling my GPU's I had two radiators in parallel with each other one pump one reservoir and then both the video cards where in parallel with each other.
m
0
l
PCnooberson
December 29, 2013 2:27:10 PM
i used two sli bridges between the cards this placed the cards in a parallel configuration with each other
i have als paralleled a CPU and video card this setup turned out well to for you rig i was thinking that the same type of configuratuion would apply place two video cards in parallel with each other than in series with the third video card that will be in parallel with the CPU.
will upload some pics later to try and help
i have als paralleled a CPU and video card this setup turned out well to for you rig i was thinking that the same type of configuratuion would apply place two video cards in parallel with each other than in series with the third video card that will be in parallel with the CPU.
will upload some pics later to try and help
m
0
l
PCnooberson
December 30, 2013 10:01:20 AM
toolmaker_03 said:
i used two sli bridges between the cards this placed the cards in a parallel configuration with each otheri have als paralleled a CPU and video card this setup turned out well to for you rig i was thinking that the same type of configuratuion would apply place two video cards in parallel with each other than in series with the third video card that will be in parallel with the CPU.
will upload some pics later to try and help
But first off, whats the difference between a terminal and a bridge.
On the EK site, when i was looking for sli connectors, they have 2 options, bridges and terminals. Whats the difference? How do i know which one is the right one for me?
m
0
l
PCnooberson
December 31, 2013 11:48:44 AM
vmem said:
PCnooberson, you want a bridge block which has everything set up for you to run parallelthe terminal is basically like any other terminal (telephone, train, etc etc), it has a bunch of connectors, and isn't made just for running SLI. it's versatile, but more difficult to use
But can i use a terminal just the same and just as efficient?
Why i ask this is because i want to use this graet looking copper block: EK-FC780 GTX Ti - Acetal
http://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc780-gtx-ti-acetal.html
But in the description, it says it is not campatible with the bridges and link systems that from EK, no mention on whether or not OTHER brands work. However, it does say that you can use up to 4 (quad sli) waterblocks by using on of their terminals.
So...what am i to do?
Do terminals work just as well?
m
0
l
Related resources
- Help with first Custom Liquid Cooling Setup Forum
- Help choose parts for custom liquid cooling Forum
- SolvedBuilding A Custom Liquid Cooled PC for 1st time! Need Help! Forum
- SolvedCosair h100i or Custom Liquid Cooling Forum
- SolvedClosed Loop or Custom Loop Liquid Cooling Forum
- SolvedBest Custom Liquid Cooling Kit (360mm) Forum
- SolvedEnthusiast gaming computer, i need a custom liquid cooling system please! Forum
- SolvedCustom Liquid Cooling for a Gaming/Overclocking PC Forum
- SolvedIm interested in custom liquid cooling? Forum
- SolvedCustom Liquid Cooling Forum
- SolvedAutomatic Liquid Cooling --> Custom Watercooling Forum
- SolvedCustom liquid cooling setup Forum
- SolvedCustom liquid cooling loop and components Forum
- SolvedFirst time custom liquid cooling advice? Forum
- SolvedWhat case do you feel best accommodates a custom liquid cooling loop for a CPU/GPU while simply using boost overclocks? Forum
- More resources
Read discussions in other Overclocking categories
!


