Residential Wired Network Upgrade

somethingstrange

Honorable
Dec 21, 2013
2
0
10,510
I just moved into my new home, and would like to upgrade it with a wired network. The builder ran Cat5e cables through the walls for the phone system. All the rooms contained RJ-11 phone jacks, which I have since replaced with RJ-45 jacks, wired using 568A.

I should mention that in Room 1 (R1), I have a cable modem/router connected to a D-Link switch. I was planning on running a wire from the switch to the wall to serve the rest of the house. In the other rooms (R2 and R3), I currently plan on connecting a single device each. If additional devices are needed in either room, I will be adding another switch at that location.

Home-Network-Setup.png


My inexpensive, but seemingly accurate cable tester suggests that everything is wired correctly. It tests each wire (1-8) individually, and they light up in sequence when testing across rooms (R1->R2, R2->R3). This leads me to believe the in-wall wiring is at least functional. Unfortunately, I’m not getting any network signal when I plug in my router/switch in one jack (R1) and a laptop in another (R2).

I’m completely inexperienced with wiring networks like this, so I could be doing something wrong. I have verified that the cable running from the switch to the wall in R1 is good (my laptop makes a network connection). Between the wall jack in R1 and the wall jack in R2, something goes wrong.

There is a central wire hub behind a closet panel that could be the issue. I’m thinking the telecom panel that’s installed isn’t meant for an Ethernet setup. This is what the closet panel looks like:

Closet-Network-Panel-4.jpg


Closet-Network-Panel-6.jpg


I was considering adding RJ-45 plugs to the relevant wires in the closet, and installing a basic off-the-shelf retail network switch (10/100 or gigabit) to bypass the existing telecom panel. There is a live power outlet ready to go.

Is this the best way to go, and is it safe to put an active powered switch in a closet wall and then close up the panel? I want to avoid potential electrical or fire hazards, obviously. I’d prefer not to have the panel open, since I store clothing in that closet.

Does anyone have any suggestions for low-power or low-heat switches that will work in this situation? Should I be looking for a different type of switch (not an off-the-shelf model)? Is there something else probably going on, and should the existing telecom panel actually be working?

In the closet panel image, notice that the Yellow telecom line is disconnected. While that line was connected to the “IN LINE” connectors, I was getting wires 4 and/or 5 lighting up on the cable tester. This stopped when I disconnected the yellow LINE IN cable. I do not subscribe to a landline phone service, and don’t believe I have any reason to connect it at this time, but if there is a solution that will allow me to re-establish the connection while maintaining an Ethernet network, I would be interested in that.

 
Solution
Hard to say what that panel is but I would bet it is all connected together which is worthless for network.

Putting RJ45 on the end of the cables and plugging them into a small switch is going to be the easiest solution. Most the small switches take very little power. I know a dlink 108 claims to take less than 5 watts of power and can operate at 130 degrees. 5 watts is almost nothing, small nighlights take 5 watts. That is a pretty big enclosure and I would suspect if you could check to see how hot it gets. I suppose you could let the switch touch the cover plate and it would radiate some of the heat out. Still 5 watts is almost nothing.
Hard to say what that panel is but I would bet it is all connected together which is worthless for network.

Putting RJ45 on the end of the cables and plugging them into a small switch is going to be the easiest solution. Most the small switches take very little power. I know a dlink 108 claims to take less than 5 watts of power and can operate at 130 degrees. 5 watts is almost nothing, small nighlights take 5 watts. That is a pretty big enclosure and I would suspect if you could check to see how hot it gets. I suppose you could let the switch touch the cover plate and it would radiate some of the heat out. Still 5 watts is almost nothing.
 
Solution

somethingstrange

Honorable
Dec 21, 2013
2
0
10,510


It does seem like the telecom panel shares signals with all cables at the same time, which would make sense for a phone system. Following your advice, I located the three cat5e cables connected to the wall jacks that I wanted to convert, added RJ-45 plugs to the end of them, and hooked them up to a standard retail network switch. I now have gigabit ethernet access in multiple rooms in my house.

I went with a D-Link 5-Port Gigabit QOS Switch DGS-105, since I only needed a few ports and it's a bit smaller than the DGS-108 you suggested. It seems to be running well, and stays pretty cool when tucked behind the closet panel.

Thanks for your help!
 

TRENDING THREADS