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Computer Will Not POST After Installing A Graphics Card Or After Putting The Old One Back

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December 27, 2013 11:23:52 AM

Built a new computer, the links for all the parts are:
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Case: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/ite...
CPU: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/ite...
Motherboard: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/ite...
Ram: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/ite...
DVD-ROM: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/ite...
Hard Drive: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/ite...
OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64-bit
PSU: http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/ite...
I doubt you need the mouse, keyboard, and monitor. For the monitor though I borrowed my friend's as mine is coming in the mail.
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These were the parts I first installed the computer with. I downloaded Windows 7 and many programs. Played a few games. Had fun. Then, I had a graphics card come one month later. This is where it all goes sour. I plug in the graphics card and hook it up to the motherboard. I press the power on button. My computer doesn't beep like it usually does and nothing comes up on the monitor. The fans would turn on (even the graphics' card fan). After searching, I learned that the computer wasn't POSTing. Which is only the first stage of booting. I knew something was up. The fans would light up and spin like normal, but there would be no beep. It wouldn't turn off automatically, it would just stay on and not beep or display anything on the monitor. I was like, ok why don't I try using the old graphics card (onboard the motherboard ATI Radeon 3000). I plug the monitor back into the motherboard. No beep and the monitor is still blank. We did more research and tried using a paper-clip (after the computer was off of course) and resetting the motherboard by touching the two pins on the CLR_COMS. This was to reset the BIOS for any issues (even though we didn't change anything). I had the paperclip touch both pins for a full five seconds, restarted... nothing. I took the battery it out for a full thirty minutes. Nothing. I am almost certain that the PSU got overloaded because after doing calculations, I need around 625 watts for my computer (including the graphics card). My PSU does say 750 watts but it has a 78% efficiency (didn't know about the 80 certified during the time, which I will look for if I need a replacement). This brings the wattage of the PSU to around 580. I put too much wattage in the PSU without knowing. I read stories where people would plug it back into the old one and the PSU would work fine again. This is where I get really confused. Did I put so much extra wattage in the PSU that it can't recover? Did I uninstall drivers, no. But I don't think that was the issue since it didn't even POST, so it couldn't load up Windows. I was going to uninstall them after i installed the graphics card. All help is appreciated. I am guessing that my PSU is shot and I need to get a new one. If you guys know this is true, give me some recommendations on an 850-1000+ watt PSU that is under $150ish. I found one that I do like (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/ite...), but I am open to recommendations. I hope you all had a wonderful holiday. And if you have any questions or need further information, comment on this post and I will try to get back to you as soon as I can.
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December 27, 2013 11:28:29 AM

What graphics card did you install?
Related resources
December 27, 2013 12:50:09 PM

Did more research and realized it could also be a bad MOBO (motherboard). I am still thinking it is a PSU but it can be the MOBO.
December 27, 2013 1:12:56 PM

Just tried removing both ram sticks. I waited for the three long beeps (learned that it was a code in a youtube video). Not a single beep. Any ideas?
December 27, 2013 1:49:37 PM

Update: Now the computer doesn't turn on at all, no fans or lights. Is that a PSU issue?

Update 2: Called the Ultra company and they think theat too much wattage was going through it and it overloaded and "died". But luckily they cover it. I will get the same PSU (for free) and not use the graphics card until I buy another PSU. The graphics card that comes with my motherboard is a ATI Radeon 3000. Still better than my old mac right? XD Well now I have to see if the motherboard is also shot. But I won't be able to find out unless I get a new PSU.

I guess I solved my issue? Well now it is just a form of recommendations for 850+ PSUs that are under $150ish.
December 28, 2013 5:05:31 PM

I will keep everyone updated with the story. My plan is to get another PSU and then test it out on my computer. If it doesn't work, I know the motherboard is broken too.
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December 29, 2013 7:54:46 PM

That's a good PSU (built by Seasonic), but WAY bigger than you need. Even 550W is a little big, but leaves room for future upgrades.
December 29, 2013 9:50:25 PM

550 watts is around the exact I need actually. And thats not even taking efficiency into consideration. Realistically, I need 400 watts for the video card, 125 watts for the processor, 0 for the motherboard (?), 8 watts for both ram sticks, and 6 watts for all the USB devices. That comes to 539 watts. This number does exclude all future upgrades I plan on doing. The future upgrades is the big reason for getting a high wattage PSU, and there are going to be a lot of them. But it is great knowing I picked a good PSU by having not just you on this forum but other people on other forums tell me this is a good PSU.

Concluding, I know this is a ton of wattage, but I plan on keeping this PSU for a while and making huge upgrades to this PC with a lot of extra wattage needed. Thanks for the feedback and giving me more assurance on this brand of PSU.
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December 30, 2013 10:05:10 AM

No, you don't need 400W for the video card! That may be nVidia's recommendation, but it is for the entire system not just the video card. Your card has a single PCIe connector; to remain within PCIe specifications, it can draw no more than 75W for the PCIe slot plus 75W for the single 6-pin connector, or 150W total. In actual use, that card will most likely draw less than 110W.
December 30, 2013 10:18:47 AM

Onus said:
No, you don't need 400W for the video card! That may be nVidia's recommendation, but it is for the entire system not just the video card. Your card has a single PCIe connector; to remain within PCIe specifications, it can draw no more than 75W for the PCIe slot plus 75W for the single 6-pin connector, or 150W total. In actual use, that card will most likely draw less than 110W.


Wow, that seems weird. But then how did the other one break in the first place? I guess I got a lot of room for upgrades. XD
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December 30, 2013 10:34:28 AM

The other one was a generic PSU-shaped object with a liar-label affixed to it. Addressing consumer fraud like that doesn't buy any votes, and may threaten corporate campaign contributions, so it is ignored by the parasites.
December 30, 2013 10:40:48 AM

Good thing I didn't buy another PSU from that brand. Before ordering the PSU, I was looking at a lot of them and I read that Ultra is very unreliable and that it's Cosair, XFX, and a couple other brands for PSUs. Like I said before, I guess I got a lot of room for upgrades.
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December 30, 2013 10:45:33 AM

I'd drop the Corsair "CX" from that list. On a budget, Rosewill Capstone or Antec VP-450 or Earthwatts would be my choices.
December 30, 2013 7:33:45 PM

Ok. Thanks. I will keep you updated once the PSU comes.
January 6, 2014 4:41:32 PM

I received the PSU today. I hooked it up and got the same result that started this thread. No beeps, but the fans turn on. Its not POSTing. I am guessing it is the motherboard. Am I right? Please help.
January 8, 2014 3:13:25 AM

I tried taking out the CPU and listening for a beep code. There was none. I call the motherboard company and they say is is probably a motherboard. Their warranty was fine, 3 years. I am going to return it once they except my repair claim (where they try to repair it, but I am guessing I am going to get a new one, all in all. It will be fixed). Now if this works, I just want to know how it happened in the first place. Did the PCI Express 3.0 Video Card crash the PCI Express 2.0 slot? They are said to be backwards compatible. A paper in the video card box said it and all of the internet it said it. Any ideas to how the motherboard crashed/failed?
January 8, 2014 10:35:16 AM

They didn't accept my return claim yet, its still under review. I am guessing it will need a good 24-48 hours. I will keep the forum updated. Also does anybody know why the motherboard crashed/failed?

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a c 113 V Motherboard
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January 8, 2014 10:38:44 AM
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Cheap PSUs can take out motherboards when they croak.
January 8, 2014 2:06:51 PM

I think that could be the reason. At least the warranty is still valid. I am still waiting for them to accept my repair claim.
January 10, 2014 2:51:29 AM

GIGABYTE accepted my RMA. But the question is, where is a safe place to put my CPU and RAM while my MOBO is being repaired?
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January 10, 2014 6:59:27 AM

Place RAM & CPU into an anti-static bag (hopefully you held onto those after finishing the build)

Ideally, place the CPU back into it's anti-static foam Before putting into the anti-static bag (again, IF you kept it)

BTW, the "750watt" power supply :

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/ite...

Is "total Max combined" power.....
- what system really need is 12volt power
- 540watts (12volts * 42amps) (hey, but this is MAX, you need continuous power)
-270watts (peak power if typically double continuous, so divide 540watts by 2)

That's why your original PSU could NOT handle the load. It SHOULD have been rated as a "300watt" continuous power supply.... (the extra 30watts is for all the other voltages....)
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January 10, 2014 7:39:52 AM

AMD FD4130FRGUBOX FX-4130 Processor - Quad Core, 8MB L3 Cache, 4MB L2 Cache, 3.8GHz (3.9GHz Max Turbo), Socket AM3+, 125W

As you can see this is a 125 Watt TDP (Thermal Design Power) CPU. The motherboard you listed does not support this high 125W TDP CPU. Using unsupported CPUs can cause many problems. I would suggest you look for your revision number in the lower left corner of the motherboard and consulting the CPU Support List. You probably should be using a 95 Watt TDP CPU.

CPU Support List for Rev. 4.
http://www.gigabyte.com/support-downloads/cpu-support-p...
January 11, 2014 11:23:37 AM

Thing is though Calvin, why did it work before I installed the video card? Also for putting my CPU and Ram somewhere safe is going to be tough. I only got 1 anti-static bag and the company says you must mail in the product in an anti-static bag. Neither do I have the CPU anti-static foam. But I do have some foam that came with my monitor, I can cut it to fit. But if that won't work, any other ideas? Thanks again for the help though.
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January 11, 2014 3:54:34 PM

If you have a Fry's, Microcenter, or Radio Shack near by, buy a couple anti-static bags... or, borrow bags from a friend.

Do Not use foam from Monitor!

January 13, 2014 8:22:35 AM

I will try to pick up some anti-static baggies and put the CPU and Ram in a safe place ASAP. Also Calvin, you didn't answer my question, how come the motherboard worked before though the CPU didn't get 125 watts of wattage.
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January 13, 2014 8:35:17 AM

nikorev said:
I will try to pick up some anti-static baggies and put the CPU and Ram in a safe place ASAP. Also Calvin, you didn't answer my question, how come the motherboard worked before though the CPU didn't get 125 watts of wattage.


The power supply on the motherboard is rated (tested & certified) to provide reliable power to the CPU, "upto 95 watts"...

When you installed a 125watt CPU, it was "able to" provide that power.... BUT, I'm sure it was Really heating up the motherboard voltage regulation. If this didn't fail immediately it would certainly shorten the live expectancy of the motherboard....
January 13, 2014 9:04:52 AM

Thanks again for more help Onus, jb6684, and Calvin7.
January 13, 2014 9:07:56 AM

Ok. So does that mean I should go searching for another motherboard/CPU. I prefer to do motherboard. After the repair I can try to resell it? But is it possible the CPU is damaged from not receiving supplementary wattage?
January 13, 2014 9:23:54 AM

Also should I look into CPU warranty?
January 13, 2014 9:48:50 AM

^^ Meaning return policies and calling the company for a return/repair?
January 14, 2014 4:56:59 AM

So what I plan on doing is, sending in the motherboard and CPU for repair. I forgot to tell you the first time the computer boot up (before it broke) the processor was running at 2.8 Ghz when it was said to run at 3.8 Ghz. Maybe this is a sign it is damaged? Then I am going to send in the Ultra PSU for repair. Then I could sell the motherboard/Ultra PSU or give the parts (except for the processor because I can't offord another one) to a friend and buy a new motherboard that will give 125 watts to the processor. Then I "rebuild" most of the computer and hope to hear the beeps. Expect this to take a couple of weeks, because they are going to try and repair it, and shipping. I will probably send out the parts tomorrow. Anyway, the question of this post is, is the processor speed (said in the beginning of this post) a sign for a damaged processor? And also, is this a good idea?
January 14, 2014 5:12:25 AM

Also do you have any motherboard recommendations that have:

Motherboard Needs:
125 Watts for the CPU
PCI Express 3.0 (preferred, but 2.0 is fine. FYI it is for the graphics card)
At least 8GB of possible ram (16GB+ is preferred, but 8GB is fine)
Under $150 (prefer under $100 but I know I am going to have to spend some money)
Asus or GIGABYTE (both have good warranty for many of their products and their customer service is good)
ATX or Micro-ATX
Compatible with all of my parts and has room for future upgrades

I found these two http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/ite... & http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/ite.... Are they good? I don't see any wattage for the CPU said anywhere on the description or specifications of the product. Please reply your opinion on these two motherboards and if they can meet my needs. Thanks again for the help :) .
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January 14, 2014 9:21:57 AM

Of those two boards, the Gigabyte is the better choice, since it is a true 900-series chipset board. Take a look at the spreadsheet at https://spreadsheets.google.com/spreadsheet/pub?key=0Ag... and avoid any known for VRM problems.
700-series boards (including the liar-labeled "960," "980," and some "970DE" models) use an older chipset but just have a modern socket tacked onto them. If they have SATA 6Gb/s and / or USB3.0, they will be provided by slower, 3rd-party controllers. Also, they may (but not necessarily) run their hypertransport buss at a lower speed than the 5200MT/s common to the 900 series.
You also want a board with heatsinks on its VRMs, as you will almost certainly want to overclock at some point.
January 14, 2014 9:22:49 AM

Updating what I am going to do. I am going to run the processor on the same motherboard I am returning (not get a new one) until I have enough money to purchase a suitable board. I am going to just repair the MOBO and use it with the same processor. If the processor breaks, I will consult warrant. The old PSU will be returned for a replacement and probably sold or returned to the tigerdirect for a money payback. I am still thinking so this should change. But for future reference, any good motherboards with my needs?\\Motherboard Needs:
125 Watts for the CPU
PCI Express 3.0 (preferred, but 2.0 is fine. FYI it is for the graphics card)
At least 8GB of possible ram (16GB+ is preferred, but 8GB is fine)
Under $150 (prefer under $100 but I know I am going to have to spend some money)
Asus or GIGABYTE (both have good warranty for many of their products and their customer service is good)
ATX or Micro-ATX
Compatible with all of my parts and has room for future upgrades
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January 14, 2014 9:49:53 AM

The spreadsheet indicates the wattage the boards support. PCIe 2.0 will be sufficient; if you want 3.0 anyway, you'll need to get something like the latest 990FX Sabertooth, which is closer to $200.
January 14, 2014 9:50:12 AM

http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/ite... Found out this will support 125watt CPUs. Also found out the other one http://www.gigabyte.us/products/product-page.aspx?pid=3... will also support the 125 watt CPU. I took a look at the CPU support list for the one I have, it wasn't there. That must explain it. So, now its time to save up. And get the new motherboard ASAP. I will probably get my money back on the PSU and have enough for the first link I displayed. Then I can order the new PSU and test it out with the processor and see if it will run the true 3.8Ghz instead of 2.8Ghz. If it doesn't I return the CPU and then hopefully get a fully running computer.

FYI Most of the posts I am making is just keeping the post updated.
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January 14, 2014 9:56:29 AM

Don't get the Asus board you linked; it is a 700-series board.
January 14, 2014 11:25:21 AM

Ok. Well the GIGABYTE board is still a little bit out of my range. I am going to look for motherboards and use that spreadsheet to find a good one. Thanks for the help again Onus.
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January 14, 2014 12:19:31 PM

That is also a 700-series board. Take a look at the Biostar TA970 for an inexpensive, 900-series board with decent VRMs.
January 14, 2014 4:01:07 PM

May be a stupid question but whats the difference between a 900-series and 700-series board? I am guessing 900-series is newer and much more improved. Also, do you have any other motherboard ideas? It looks like a good board (not sure about the company though), which you can buy from newegg, but I can't stand their return policy.
January 14, 2014 4:05:31 PM

I looked at more motherboards and some of them say AMD 750G and some say AMD 900S and stuff like that. Is there a major difference between the series numbers?
January 14, 2014 4:35:03 PM

I found this. http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/ite.... Has an AMD 970 chipset and supports 32GB of ram and has 2 PCI-E 16x slots. GPU SLI? I don't plan on doing it at this moment because I only have 1 objective right now, get it booting. Its not heat-sinked so I have no idea if I need it or not.
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January 15, 2014 6:45:15 AM

The Asus board is good, but not for high overclocks (you may or may not care). The lack of heatsinks on the VRMs means your ability to overclock may be limited. The second PCIe slot on it is X4, so you won't run Crossfire on it.
900-series boards have modern interfaces like SATA 6Gb/s and USB3.0. If an older 700-series board has them, they will be provided by a 3rd-party controller, and will be slower. Also, many (but not all) 700-series boards run their Hypertransport buss at less that 5200MT/s speeds.
Although Biostar is nowhere near the front of my list, the TA9xxx series is not known for problems and uses all-solid capacitors, so it should be reliable. I'd buy one.
January 15, 2014 10:00:23 AM

I don't mind not being able to run crossfire. It would be cool, but not needed. Overclocking isn't going to be high on my priority list, but I might overclock my CPU in the far future. But again, I just can get a better CPU (6-8 cores). Thanks for more information on the 700 and 900 series boards. I would prefer a 900 series board now. Also thanks for more backup on how good the product is. I didn't read many bad reviews on it, unless they received it broken which is a very low chance. I shall order it in the future. I will probably live with the motherboard I have after I get it back from the warranty. Then the old PSU, I will get the warranty going on that and sell the PSU for whatever I can get. Then I get the rest of the money and buy the new motherboard. Thanks again for the help Onus.
January 15, 2014 10:02:18 AM

Anyway one thing that I love about the motherboard is that it can support up to 32GB. I don't plan on getting 32GB, but I do plan on going for 16GB in the future.
!