Rosewill Capstone 650-M Installation Help (Computer turns on and off)

MJacobsen

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Hello everyone! I've seen people talk about this problem quite a bit, but I have yet to find a proper solution for this problem. Basically, I installed the Rosewill Capstone 650-M and attached the cables to the appropriate areas (Motherboard, CPU, SATAs, and GPU) however after flipping the power switch on the PSU the computer automatically tries to turn on. If I understand how these things should work, I don't think the power switch on the PSU should turn the computer on correct? Continuing, when the computer attempts to turn on it will light up and have all the fans spinning for 5-10 seconds then shut right off (nothing is ever displayed on the monitor). It will then attempt to start 2 or 3 more times before completely shutting off.

I can assure you that all the other parts in my computer work properly (I'm currently using it to write this message) so that means the problem must come from the PSU. Could it possibly be the way that power is received by the computer? By this I mean that my old PSU did not have an on and off switch, just a green light that let you know it was on (which lit up after plugging it in). I'm not entirely sure, but I do know that my GTX 760 is screaming for some better power haha.

In addition, when starting up, I do not see the light for the HDD or hear it making any noises. Could the problem be the SATA cables? I've checked it and the cable is firmly in place.


Any replies or ideas for troubleshooting would be greatly appreciated, thank you!

Also, before I forget. Specs:
System Specs:
Graphics: Nvidia GTX 760
CPU: Intel Core i7 920 @ 2.67GHz
Motherboard: Pegatron Corporation Model: Truckee (This was the stock motherboard, however the computer, when first bought was fairly expensive so I assume its a good motherboard)
PSU: Stock 485W
OS: Windows 7 Home Premium 64bit Service pack 1
 
Solution
When I was initially looking through various forum posts about your problem the PSU that came up as being the most compatible was the Corsair HX650.

The Corsair HX650 actually uses Seasonic as its OEM.

MJacobsen

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Anyone have any ideas? I've ordered a PSU tester and will be testing it to make sure its in working order and not Dead on Arrival. I'll keep the thread updated just in-case anyone would like to chime in and let me know if i'm doing something incorrectly!
 
Does sound like the PSU. I know it is a Rosewill, but if you go to Corsair.com they have a simple 'paperclip" test to check the PSU. And here's a video I found on YouTube by way of Tom's Forum:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?annotation_id=annotation_2250900693&feature=iv&src_vid=khpnx21oydg&v=ixcWCrYpw3Y
Generally if this test works, the the PSU is putting out power.
To skip all the troubleshooting BS, and the time, I would RMA the PSU and if you have a problem with another one then it is probably something else. That PSU is a very good unit made by Super Flower, but even the best occasionally have a bad product.
 

MJacobsen

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Thank you very much for responding Nostall. I completed the paperclip test and the fan spins like normal. I purchased an actual PSU tester which should arrive on Thursday. That will tell me for sure if all the connections are firing. But from just the paperclip test it seems to be in working order.
 
Roger the paperclip test. Let us know what the psu tester shows.
You may already know this, but ATX specifications allow for a maximum of 10% fluctuation of output voltages/power; and I believe the 80PLUS specs call for 5% or less. I mention this because the tester may show slightly lower or higher readings then specified (12,5, 3.3).
If your PC did the same thing when you plugged in the old psu I would think it was the power switch on the case.
One last thing: Since this is a pre-built PC, there is the chance that the power connections are NOT standard or common, but are proprietary: Dell, Alienware, and I think HP used to do this, and hooking up an off-the-shelf psu could/would fry the components.
Compare the pin-out wiring of the old psu with the new; do the same colored wires go to the same pins on the mobo connector. They must be exact. A google search might be necessary to find out additional information.
 

MJacobsen

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Thank you for the heads up about the PSU tester! Now that you mention it, the PC was originally a pre-built HP (I was much younger and inexperienced, I would never buy another HP haha). What types of things should I be looking for to verify that the power button is indeed the problem? Are there specific connections on the motherboard that I should look for? Additionally, the computer powers on and works fine with the old PSU so I'm not sure if that information discounts the possibility of the power button being the problem here.

I'll go compare the wiring and report back as an edit to this post.

Also, the old PSU did not have an on/off switch in the back simply a green light to tell you if it was plugged in. I'm unsure if this has any significance, as the new PSU does have an on/off switch.

This page details my motherboard specs (in-case you think this may be the problem):
http://www.findlaptopdriver.com/pegatron-corporation-truckee-1-04-motherboard-e01-specs/

EDIT: The more I read about these pre-built computer issues the more I think I may actually need a new motherboard to get this install done. I'm not positive just yet though.
 


A couple things first.
The power-on switch makes no difference other then one powers on when plugged in the other you can switch off and on. With the old psu (or actually any PC with any PSU), shutting down the system via Windows start button does NOT power it off, you have to unplug the psu to stop all power flow into the pc; with the new unit the on/off switch actually shuts off the electricity into the PSU thusly the pc.

I see that I wasn't really clear re. the case power switch. That part is not the problem as they are pretty generic and if the pc. turns on and off properly with the old PSU installed, then there is nothing wrong with the case's power switch and its connections.
Until 2010 Pegatron was a subsidiary of ASUS, and actually built a lot of ASUS boards; they became their own company in 2010. (just a little extra information, don't know if it helps or if you care)
If you decide to replace the mother board, it may be simpler and, IN THE LONG run, cheaper to just build a computer.
The socket 1366 and it's chipsets are really old tech for Intel (there have been 1156[discontinued], 1155 [soon to be gone], 1150 [new Haswell] and 2011[still produced] sockets since the 1366. It is still a good processor and board, IF it works properly.

I am going to bet that the 24 pin power is wired differently for the HP then for off-the shelf; this would explain the on-off cycling as the PSU or MOBO or both protection circuits kick in and shut things off. Had an acquaintance about 12 years ago buy a new psu (Enermax, one of the best at the time), took it home and plugged it into his Dell or HP (can't remember which, and this was before 80plus and improved circuits and requirements) and he smoked his mobo, a hardrive, and the new psu!

You can also try Googling for information re. proprietary parts in you HP; there should be something out there talking about when they stopped doing the proprietary thing.
 

MJacobsen

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Hmmm alright thank you for clearing up the power switch dilema.

That is actually a nice tidbit of information regarding Pegatron being a subsidary of ASUS. I bought the computer in 2009 so that means they were still a subsidary when I purchased it. I have considered it, but if I get a new motherboard I will need a new processor. Just those two things combined are quite the pretty penny after having bought a new PSU and GPU recently. I'm not sure what i'll do just yet, but i'll certainly be considering it.

I compared the wiring of both the 24pin connectors and they are identical. So this is not the problem.

I have noticed that the computer will not display the "HDD Access" light when booting up. Could it be a problem with the hard drive not receiving power? I have made sure that the SATA cable is firmly in place.

In regards to proprietary parts, I will have to do that research later tonight or tomorrow as I'm about to leave for work. I'll report back with what I find when it is completed.
 


It might be time to simply RMA the new power supply. Your original suspicion was probably correct, and we are just chasing ghosts with the hope that it is something simpler. If the replacement PSU has the same problem, then that pretty much answers the question about the problem NOT being with the PSU.
ko888, any thoughts on this thread?
 

MJacobsen

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Thank you for chiming in on the thread Ko888! The PC is a HP Pavilion Elite 170f

My computer's exact specs can be found here:
http://h20566.www2.hp.com/portal/site/hpsc/template.PAGE/public/kb/docDisplay/?sp4ts.oid=4079700&spf_p.tpst=kbDocDisplay&spf_p.prp_kbDocDisplay=wsrp-navigationalState%3DdocId%253Demr_na-c01959718-29%257CdocLocale%253D%257CcalledBy%253D&javax.portlet.begCacheTok=com.vignette.cachetoken&javax.portlet.endCacheTok=com.vignette.cachetoken

It would make sense that the motherboard is the problem, as it seems to be the only logical explanation after all the troubleshooting. I'll be receiving the PSU tester on Thursday so that will say for sure if the PSU is 100% functional.

Thank you again (both of you) for responding to the thread!
 

MJacobsen

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Thank you so much for finding this! I'm actually so excited that i'm going to stay up tonight and see if this fixes it! I'll report back when its done!

Also, happy new year everyone!

EDIT: I successfully updated my BIOS to Ver 5.29. My SMBios was already Ver 2.5. Unfortunately the problem still persisted, having the exact same results as before. However, I do very much appreciate you taking the time to find that thread, I realize you went out of your way to do so. Do you think it would be easier to research what PSUs others have installed into this computer and simply purchase one of those? How about the EVGA 750B that was mentioned in the thread you shared? I bought the Rosewill because I knew it was a good PSU, but if there is a comparable model I still have time to return the Rosewill.

Would this be the correct model: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817438007

I'll do more research as to which models others have had success with tomorrow when I return from work.

EDIT #2: So I did some poking around and found this VERY useful post by Tarpon31 found here: http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/325366-28-problem-corsair-video-card

He tested many Corsair and Seasonic models finding that the best PSU (that will actually boot up) is the Corsair HX650. None of the Seasonic PSUs worked. Now my question to you guys is, how does this PSU compare to the Rosewill Capstone 650M?
 

MJacobsen

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Do you think the Corsair HX650 will have the "Chirping" issues that everyone seems to be talking about? For that reason I was considering the Corsair CX600 V2. It doesn't seem to have the same chirping issue and still has been suggested as a working replacement (Certain amazon reviews even stated they used this PSU with their HP Elite)

I'm still looking into further options however.
 


I installed a Corsair HX650 in my friend's new build a few months ago and in the two week time period that I was running it through its testing I didn't hear any chirping or coil whine or any other odd noises from the PSU.

He also hasn't reported any odd noises from the system since he's been using it for the past 7 months.
 

MJacobsen

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Hmmm, well the only other brand of PSU that has been reported working with my motherboard is Antec. I'm not too sure I want one of those haha. So i'll trust your recommendation for the HX650. If it does end up chirping, do you know if Corsair can repair it? I'll post back when I receive the PSU and install it.
 


From what I've heard about Corsair's RMA process for PSUs, they don't repair the PSU because they don't have repair facilities. They just send you a new replacement once they receive the defective unit.
 

MJacobsen

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I'm sorry to keep pestering you with questions, but I have one additional question before I pull the trigger on this PSU. I read deeper into this topic and found that the newer HX650 Gold PSU will chirp and is notorious for bad performance. However, I think you are referring to the bronze edition of the PSU (the bronze edition of the PSU is made by seasonic). Is this correct? I almost bought the Gold edition, but upon further consideration I am planning to go with the Bronze once I receive confirmation from you. Is the bronze edition the one people were having success with in regards to my motherboard? I couldn't find anyone stating which version they have.
 


There are two versions:

CMPSU-650HX (Discontinued)
• OEM: Seasonic (based on the M12II-650 Bronze platform)
• maximum combined +12 Volt continuous current rating of 52 Amps
• four (6+2)-pin PCI Express supplementary power connectors
• 80 PLUS BRONZE Efficiency Certification
• 7 Year Limited Warranty

HX650 (SKU# 75-001217 / CP-9020030)
• OEM: Seasonic (based on the G-650 platform)
• maximum combined +12 Volt continuous current rating of 54 Amps
• two (6+2)-pin PCI Express supplementary power connectors
• 80 PLUS GOLD Efficiency Certification
• 7 Year Limited Warranty

The CMPSU-650HX is the one I've used and it didn't have any chirping noise.
 

MJacobsen

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Thank you again for all the help you've given me. I'll be purchasing the new PSU tomorrow. It will be the CMPSU-650HX and should be here around Tuesday if all goes well. I will report back to the forum at that time with the results so anyone else having this problem will be able to quickly assess and resolve the issue.
 

MJacobsen

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I just wanted to stop by one last time in this thread and let everyone know that the PSU and graphics card have been installed and are working as intended! I'm not sure that I would have been able to solve this problem without your help, so I'd like to thank you for taking the time to help me solve this problem. Its wonderful to know that there is such a nice community so willing to help others on the internet.

Thank you again!
 

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