High temperature in stock i5 2500k + Hyper 212 Evo Plus

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setheleth

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Jan 3, 2014
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9rTQGdE.png
My build:
Case - Zalman Z11 with the following coolers: a 140 mm intake at front , 2 x 120 exhaust on top, 1 x 120 exhaust at the back, 2 small ones on the side of the panel that come by default with the case to cool the HDD bay
MB - MSi P67 - G** something , i dont remember now
CPU - i5 2500k stock with Hyper 212 Evo with stock cooler mounted to push air towards the back of the case
PSU - corsair TX 650w bottom mounted face down ( it has a filter )
RAM - 4x4gb corsair something vengeance at 1600
GPU - r9 280x gigabyte windforce 3 OC
HDD - WD 1TB Caviar Black
SSD - Samsung 840 evo

My environment temp is about 25 degrees but i am not sure about it.

My problem is that i get 35-40 degrees in idle with RealTemp and in full load i reach even 69 degrees after long gaming sessions. I would like to overclock my CPU because i feel that it is slowing down my GPU in games like Guild Wars 2 for example. Also it is long past the CPU warranty and i don't mind taking the risk of oc-ing. I`m not looking for anything extreme, 4.0 - 4.2 ghz would be more than enough so i can take a feel into the whole process. The problem is that with stock temeperatures so high i know that it is not OK to overclock since these should be the temperatures for an already oc-ed cpu.

I tried reinstalling the cooler and i used the small line, the pea-size methods and the temperatures are the same but when removing the cooler i notice the paste is not well spread at all. I don't know what else to do... i reapplied it 3 times and i get the same temperatures as with the stock cooler the processor came with , which is already 3 years old.

Anyone has any advice as to how i can cooldown my CPU with the configuration i already have ? maybe a new thermalpaste apply technique...

Thanks to anyone who will be reading and maybe helping with an opinion.

PS: i didn't use mayonnaise as a thermpaste :) , i used the paste that the cooler came with which i heard is good enough and could even be Arctic Silver 5 but rebranded.. :) also the paste should make a difference of about 3-4 degrees not 20
 
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setheleth

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Jan 3, 2014
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If nothing else crosses my mind i will eventually try a top of the line paste like this one.. but i refuse to believe that paste makes such a big difference.. i believe that is something wrong with the way i`m applying it but i watched all sorts of reviews , all that is left is to try again with 2 small lines on the "gaps" between te pipes of the cooler.
 
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setheleth

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Jan 3, 2014
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That is exactly what i would wish to achieve with my build :) . I tried a rough overclock for a few minutes at 4.0 withouth touching anything else and it went up to 80c ... i changed it back in like 10 minutes. I only disabled the safe guards of my main board and changed the multiplier. After trying this i reset everything to default.
 
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setheleth

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Jan 3, 2014
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I have a spare fan and will try to do this as well , what method did you use to apply the paste ?
 
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nikoli707

nikoli707

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Jan 4, 2012
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your idle temps should be between 3-5c above ambient. 69c is nothing to worry about for sandy bridge, but you shouldn't be that high with a stock clock and 1.22v on the core. overclock until you hit 80c in intel burn test maximum stress(pushes cpu harder than prime), then back down a notch. with the hyper 212 try to stay under 1.40v if you want the best longevity. my 2500k is at 4.6ghz with 1.356v load on the core and i hit 80c on the button with my hyper 212 plus.
 
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setheleth

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Thanks, my room temperature is right at 27 degrees. i`m not planning to reach 1.40v, i only want like 4.2 ghz but i said i reached 80 degrees with just 4.0 ghz :(
 
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setheleth

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I reapplied the thermal paste with 2 lines on the heatpipes of the cooler. I changed the cooler position so it pushes air upwards where i have 2 coolers. The temperature dropped about 10 degrees in the test i was doing before,I also did the intel burn test which gave me temperatures of about 3-4 degrees higher than prime95. I changed the multiplier to 40 and now i have a maximum temp of 71 while testing with intel burn test.

What changes do i have to do in BIOS so that my clock goes down and does not stay in full speed all the time ? I followed i followed this guide and disabled the stuff it said in there http://www.tomshardware.co.uk/forum/265056-11-2600k-2500k-overclocking-guide. here are new pics
iHEyoDT.png
iYHmd59.png



As a next step i will buy a new thermal paste, probably best silicon there is because this one is very dense and if i put a small amount it wont spread , if i put a higher amount it will be too thick but the spread will be ok ( this is what i have just achieved )
 
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4Ryan6

4Ryan6

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First off you're following a guide written March 1, 2011, when the Sandy Bridge was first released and it has not been edited or updated the first time since it was posted and many overclocking discoveries have become known since then.

Re-enabling C1E will allow the clock throttling back down to 1600mhz.

I was surprised when you got better temperatures by aligning the CMH212EVO exhausting vertically as that puts the pipes perpendicular crossing the CPU core alignment under the heat spreader, and you mentioned earlier a bad look to the thermal footprint when you removed the cooler, it would have been nice if you had posted a picture of what you were seeing.

Artic Coolings, Artic MX-4 is a perfect thermal compound for the CMH-EVO it's thinner consistency allows spreading much better than the thicker compounds, because you do not need a thick layer of any compound, the thinnest even layer possible yields the best cooling performance.

The EVO is not a passive cooler so adding more fans to it won't give any super performance over it's stock setup, maybe 1c or 2c but that's about it.

You can always go to a better quality cooler but for your 4.2ghz goal the EVO should be sufficient.

You can lower your load temps by not overclocking the CPU memory controller which was designed to run at 1066mhz or 1333mhz, running it at 1600mhz is overclocking it and adding heat to the CPU, that will limit how high you can raise the multiplier of the 2500K heat wise, something you might want to experiment with.

 
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setheleth

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Jan 3, 2014
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Actually i did take some pictures from when i removed the cooler just now

1St98HF.jpg


This was how the Pea Size looked so it did not spread well at all and it is a very thick compound this one.

http://i.imgur.com/9hQZ46d.jpg

This is how it looked on the cooler, its hard to not twist it a bit when applying it because i have to fit the screws in.

http://i.imgur.com/jpVZrH6.jpg

This is how my setting looks , i know it's messy.

http://i.imgur.com/prEAZEV.jpg

This is how i applied it now and i got better results with it , also i changed the position of the cooler with the fan towards the gpu and it pushes air UPwards. Maybe if it put it back in the initial position and just add the thermal paste like in the last example i will get even better results

Thanks for the reply and i will consider applying a thermal paste that spreads easier since i notice that its a problem with this type of cooler. Also i will consider the advices to provided for overclocking, 4.2 would be perfect , right now i am running at 4.0 and it seems ok. About the RAM currently it runs at 1333 with auto voltages which is about 1.4~ something


At the moment i`m running it at 4.0 with 1.2V and it seems fine
 
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4Ryan6

4Ryan6

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That is a horrible contact footprint, it almost looks like your clamping assembly is not applying enough pressure to the mounting and the cooler is actually slightly cocked to one side?

There's obviously a slight convex rise to the CPUs heat spreader, since the warranty is probably gone you could lap it flat with 600 grit auto body sand paper, that is one option for better contact.

You are screwing the EVO down until it bottoms out out the mounting screws, Right?
 
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setheleth

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Jan 3, 2014
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Yes i screwed it until i couldnt no more.. i followed a guide on youtube , i do it in cross pattern and i assembled it a lot of times by now so i got the hang of it :) but yes, i can still twist it a bit after i`m dont tightening it but i read and noticed in other peoples videos that the can also twist it after its in place. I could have an issue with it or not :( even though i always force it until the screws dont turn anymore.
 
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