Build new pc or upgrade current one???

Here is what my PC have right now:

2x HP DVD1070 drives
500gb Western Digital (WD5000AAKX)
Hitachi Deskstar320gb
Hitachi Ultrastar 1.0 TB
e-GeForce 9400 1GB DDR2
Ultra Xfinity ATX Switching power supply (Max Combined Output 600w)
Asus motherbord AI Lifestyle
2x Kingston KVR memoty cards (99U5429-001.A00LF)

Idk what else is there on it but this sems right.
Please let me know if I should:
1. Buy new parts and which ones
2. Salvage what I can and what can I
3. Buy new computer and whats a good one for about 600-800
4. Sell it for parts and how much, or which parts should I Sell?

Thanks for any advice, Mack
Email me with suggestions or post here
7 answers Last reply Best Answer
More about build upgrade current
  1. You need to start fresh. That old computer won't really have anything you can save besides the HDDs IF they are SATA not IDE. You might could sell the rest for $50-$75
  2. You definitely need to upgrade, but you can salvage a DVD drive and any SATA hard drives.

    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

    CPU: Intel Core i3-4130 3.4GHz Dual-Core Processor ($119.98 @ OutletPC)
    Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-H87-D3H ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($99.99 @ Amazon)
    Memory: Crucial Ballistix Elite 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($74.99 @ Amazon)
    Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($99.92 @ OutletPC)
    Video Card: Asus GeForce GTX 650 Ti 1GB Video Card ($134.98 @ SuperBiiz)
    Case: Antec One ATX Mid Tower Case ($54.99 @ Newegg)
    Power Supply: XFX 550W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($49.99 @ NCIX US)
    Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 - OEM (64-bit) ($99.98 @ OutletPC)
    Total: $734.82
    (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
    (Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-01-09 10:52 EST-0500)

    Here is a good option for you, should do well with most task, gives you a fast SSD for your OS and apps, and will be a big upgrade over your current computer.

    If you have any plans for overclocking your CPU, you will need to switch to AMD because the i3's are not able to do so. Unless you have plans for CPU intensive activities or high-end gaming though, the stock speeds will work fine.
  3. Please remove your personal email address, and never ever ever ever EVER post it on a public forum. That is by far the best way to get enough junk mail to basically necessitate getting a new email address.

    To answer your question: It all depends on what you are doing with your computer.

    If you are just using it for multimedia, office, and web browsing then (depending on your CPU) you may be able to get away with a few simple upgrades. Note that this is assuming that you are running a 2.5GHz Core2Duo or better; Get a SSD for your system drive, and a nice new big HDD for your data to replace all of your old drives. This will get you much better throughput on your drives, and clean up the unholy organizational mess of running 3 HDDs. As drives are the largest bottleneck of almost any system, this is going to be your single biggest upgrade that you can make. Next, make sure that you have at least 4GB of DDR2 800 or better memory, and if your system cannot handle DDR2 800 then consider upgrading the entire thing. Lastly, upgrade to a newer basic GPU to help offload those resources. In my office PC I am using a GeForce GT 610 which is more than good enough for most tasks and running multiple monitors... but if playing some games then look for something a little bit better. Go fanless on the GPU if possible.

    Now, if you are running something slower than a DDR2 800 capable 2.5GHz Core 2 Duo (or AMD equivalent), or your are going to be using your computer for something other than basic office, web, and multimedia (such as games and production software) then it is time to upgrade to a new system. If your budget is under $500 ten it is often best to go with a pre-built Dell, HP, ASUS or other such system. They can simply make things smaller, quieter, lower power, and cheaper than you can for a cheap general use PC, while offering a decent warranty on the system.
    If a prebuilt system is not for you, then consider something like a NUC (which is what my wife will get on her next upgrade) or BRIX, or some other similar small-formfactor system that just needs an SSD and Ram added to it to make it work. Then pair it with a NAS for bulk storage, and an external DVD burner or BluRay drive if you really still need a CD drive of some sort. These systems are small, quiet/silent, you can mount them to the back of your monitor, they use extremely little power, and there are very few parts that can break in them.

    If looking at something larger or more ambitious then look around the forums for parts suggestions. Depending on what exactly you want to do then there are just too many variables to account for.

    As for selling old parts, if the system works you could probably sell the entire system (with a functional OS) for $50-100USD.... not likely worth the effort, or worth getting rid of a perfectly good copy of Windows. It would make more sense to strip out the HDDs and donate it to a local nonprofit refurbisher if you have one in your area and take the tax write off.
  4. Motherboard is P5N32-E SLI
    Intel OS Core 2 DUO 6700 SL9S7 MALAY 2.66 GHZ/4M/1066/06

    Not sure if its good or i should keep this let me know
  5. You could get by for a little longer, but that CPU will be a bottleneck for today's GPUs. I personally would start fresh.

    Check it out and see if this is a goos build for 1500 i upped my cost let me know if i can git better parts or if i dont rly need something. Also let me know if anyone a good aluminum case that would work good with parts
  7. Best answer
    PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

    CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($219.99 @ Newegg)
    CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.98 @ OutletPC)
    Motherboard: ASRock Z87 Extreme4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($134.99 @ Newegg)
    Memory: G.Skill Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($81.50 @ NCIX US)
    Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($88.99 @ Amazon)
    Storage: Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($106.99 @ NCIX US)
    Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($332.98 @ SuperBiiz)
    Sound Card: Creative Labs Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium HD 24-bit 96 KHz Sound Card ($149.99 @ Amazon)
    Wired Network Adapter: Intel EXPI9301CTBLK 10/100/1000 Mbps PCI-Express x1 Network Adapter ($29.71 @ Amazon)
    Case: Corsair 500R Black ATX Mid Tower Case ($104.99 @ NCIX US)
    Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm Fan ($16.98 @ OutletPC)
    Case Fan: Corsair Air Series AF140 Quiet Edition 67.8 CFM 140mm Fan ($16.98 @ OutletPC)
    Power Supply: Antec High Current Gamer 620W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Amazon)
    Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.98 @ OutletPC)
    Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($16.98 @ OutletPC)
    Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($82.98 @ OutletPC)
    Total: $1521.00
    (Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
    (Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-01-15 07:12 EST-0500)

    Made a couple changes;

    Haswell is the newest CPU, go with that instead of Ivy Bridge, it's faster and the same price.

    8GB of RAM is plenty, 16 is a waste unless you use programs that can take advantage.

    840 EVO is cheaper and faster.

    This Antec PSU is better, and plenty of watts for a single GPU, if you want to do SLI, look for a 750 watt PSU.

    GTX770 >>> GTX660, this will make a large difference in game performance.

    Also in my opinion the HAF cases are cheap and gimmicky, this Corsair 500R is a very good case and has great airflow and room for expansion. All aluminum cases are very expensive, I wouldn't try to get one unless you drop the sound card. On that note, motherboard audio is fine for most people and you could save a good bit of money dropping that sound card.
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