Some questions here.

JustANewUser

Honorable
Jan 14, 2014
436
0
10,810
OK...

-If the electricity suddenly turns off (my weather!), what'd happen if I am with the computer turned on? And if it is turned off?

-Do you recommend me to quit the cable from the electricity when it is turned off? What's the difference if the PC is connected to electricity and it is not, but it's turned off?

-What's a solution so I can use the PC without worrying about the electricity, is there?
 
Solution
They have different functions; surge protectors aren't too expensive, they are the primary insurance against overwhelming incoming current, a UPS really only provides an insurance (to an extent) against possible data corruption and they are somewhat expensive.
I usually use a surge protector like this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817106201 (but one from your local hardware store works just fine)
A little research into UPS's helps before purchase. Some manufacturers will recommend a UPS with 'pure or synthesized sine wave' for your system if your PSU has active PFC (that's easy to find out). There are also a lot of numbers UPS marketers throw around like VA rating, wattage etc... we can help you wade through...
There is no way to tell exactly what will happen but there are possible outcomes such as... nothing, computer turns on next time saying it was improperly shut down, select start normally, everything is happy. Or if the hard drive is writing at that moment, the file it is writing to may become corrupted and render that data or program (or even the OS) defunct (not too common but possible). Could be a surge upon power restoration that overwhelms your PSU...
The standard method to alleviate concerns like that is the use of a surge protector and (if wanted) a UPS (uninterruptable power supply). I use both and run my machines 24/7 through all weather.
The UPS system I have allows for the PC to shut itself down properly in case of extended power outages
There is no ideal solution (perhaps a huge Faraday cage surrounding your home) to eliminate concerns of electrical issues but the use of surge protectors can go far to provide some insurance.

Some things to be aware of... a surge protector does not 'clean up' incoming current (a line conditioner does that), it simply provides a fuse for damaging surges. Surge protectors have a lifespan, about 5 years, then they become less effective.
 
They have different functions; surge protectors aren't too expensive, they are the primary insurance against overwhelming incoming current, a UPS really only provides an insurance (to an extent) against possible data corruption and they are somewhat expensive.
I usually use a surge protector like this one http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16817106201 (but one from your local hardware store works just fine)
A little research into UPS's helps before purchase. Some manufacturers will recommend a UPS with 'pure or synthesized sine wave' for your system if your PSU has active PFC (that's easy to find out). There are also a lot of numbers UPS marketers throw around like VA rating, wattage etc... we can help you wade through that also
I've used this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842102069 for a system without Active PFC and I currently use this for my systems with Active PFC http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16842102133
Although I currently use CyberPower UPS products, Tripplite and APC have been around a long time (and I've used their products without issues)
 
Solution
The VA rating is what lets you figure time on battery. Keep in mind that almost everywhere you will find people overstating their power requirements (it's an unfortunate trend in computing that has more to do with PSU quality/design than actual system usage). A higher VA will provide a longer time on battery but the time length itself has much to do with what the computer is doing at the time (idle I have 20+ minutes 'til shut down, at load, less than 5 minutes).
Most general computers use anywhere from 100W-250W but the efficiency of the PSU determines how much power is needed from "the wall" (or in this case, the UPS). It is still usually a number below what most think of.
I do want to add some more here but am out of time for the moment... I'll be back.
If I'm confusing you at all, now's probably a good time to ask questions
 
Okay, I'm back

on to UPS wattages... the wattage of the UPS should be more than the draw on it. It doesn't need to be a large margin and in many cases can be lower than the PSU's wattage (again, going back to overestimating power needs along with the fact that PSU's are their most efficient around 50% output).
For use of the UPS, most of them come with monitoring software (UPS connected via USB for that) that lets you know how much estimated time you would have on battery power, it also can provide (model dependent) for automatic shutting down of equipment, you just select your preferences for shutdown behavior in the software.
I think that pretty much covers everything
 
You may be able to find a UPS that will work with your system for that price.
To get an idea of wattage needed, what CPU and graphics card(s) are you using?
To figure whether "sine wave compatible" is needed, what make and model PSU, or what does the PSU say on the label for "input voltages"?
 

JustANewUser

Honorable
Jan 14, 2014
436
0
10,810
I think I'll be getting this:

CPU: Intel Core i5-4430 3.0GHz Quad-Core Processor (€190.40 @ Amazon Espana)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-B85-HD3 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard (€82.06 @ Amazon Espana)
Memory: 8GB (2 x 4GB)
Video Card: Sapphire Radeon HD 7870 GHz Edition 2GB Video Card (€204.78 @ Amazon Espana)

But changing the PSU to a "850W" psu.
 
If it is of high quality, yes. All high quality PSU's use the Active PFC design, it allows the PSU to use any incoming voltage from 100v-240v. One benefit, but not the reason for that - the reasons have to do with PSU design in and of itself and understanding how the PSU takes the incoming AC voltage at low frequency and converts it into multiple high frequency DC voltages. I find it to be fascinating, for more information, you might look this article over http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/327 (I have it bookmarked, I can't begin to count how many times I've looked at it)

edit: I should point out that there are still some good PSU's (of older design) out there that might not include active PFC but all decent new designs feature that and some good designs available outside the US don't need that feature at all (since almost everyone else uses 220v)
 
The first picture appears to be an outlet extension only - with no power switch, fuse, or reset - if it does provide for any kind of surge protection (I don't think so), it would be a one time use thing
The second appears to be a international use surge protector (likely 220v) but I'm not seeing a reset or fuse area on it so I'm not so sure it isn't simply another extension with power switch. There are designs that use the power switch for reset though so I can't say for sure.