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Frequent computer freezes even after reinstall!

I am being driven insane by this. After a lot of troubleshooting that just led me in false directions, I still haven't got anywhere. My computer has completely random freezes. It ranges from time to time how often it is. Just now it lasts a few minutes so I can't do a resource scan.
I have completely reinstalled the operating system.
Resource scan showed everything fine.
I think it is hardware related, perhaps my AMD CPU. I am having some heating problems (massive lag spikes) which I pretty much got rid of with a hair dryer (was getting freezes as well) but was still planning on redoing paste and stuff soon. Maybe it's not a coincidence that these two issues arose at once? The lag spikes appeared before the freezes, which would make sense. However, HW monitor (in the brief time before a freeze just now) said my proccesor was at 30C!
A friend told me that a common windows problem is Ram, and another (who basically copied my build:) has the same ram and motherboard. He was getting blue screens and stuff which he managed to fix through voltage settings.
I was playing Titanfall beta all afternoon today with no problems whatsoever but (this could be coincidence) when my friend called me on Skype IT CAME BACK. I reinstalled OS for no reason. It was the refresh feature on windows 8 by the way.

Someone please help me!

Fx 8350
GTX 770
ASRock 970 extreme 4
(Ram has really strange name but it is corsair veangance)
SSD vertex 3
Caviar blue 500gb
Black 1tb
Zalman z9 plus
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  1. Usually people reply a bit faster than this. I was reading another thread where someone was having a similar problem and it turned out that it was because the chip set on the motherboard had been damaged due to overheating. This of course links to my problem. How could I check this? Thanks in advance
  2. There's a prize for whoever fixes it
  3. Try and Reapply the thermal paste and heatsink also try using other ram if you have or leave it to one stick and try to use only the ssd not the hard drives if nothing of this helps then downgrade to windows 7 cause it might be just windows 8.And about the motherboard chipset it is very unlikley that it will overheat if you aren't overclocking high.
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  4. The thing is so many things could be wrong. It could be your PSU, RAM, CPU, MB, etc.

    Have you modified your PC at all lately? Move it across the room, OC your CPU, etc.
  5. darkolozankoski said:
    Try and Reapply the thermal paste and heatsink also try using other ram if you have or leave it to one stick and try to use only the ssd not the hard drives if nothing of this helps then downgrade to windows 7 cause it might be just windows 8.And about the motherboard chipset it is very unlikley that it will overheat if you aren't overclocking high.

    It's reassuring that you suggested replacing thermal paste as I was about to do that anyway! :) I have the stock cooler with the pre-applied paste and I do get the impression that AMD wouldn't be good with since they didn't even provide a heat sink with that new $800 proccessor! I have ordered the article cooling mx4 paste and the articlean stuff (which cost more, the irony!) and they should come in a few days.
    The system freezes when I'm playing games on the SSD and I don't think I have any programs running off the other drives, so could they still cause issues. I have only done a windows check on the terabyte drive though...
    I'm not sure I would be able to play games with just one stick of Ram as I have 2x4gb, and that's the only way I can get freezes really. I have had freezes outside of games but only after it has started freezing in games.
    Also to Gumbykid I haven't made any modifications other than dust out the PC with a hairdryer like I said. After I try the paste I will try running memtest and check my PSU.
    Thank you very much for replying! :)
  6. Its very likely the 8350 coupled with that mother board is causing your problems. Ive had a couple 970 chipsets go bad on my 8320. They just really cant handle it well. Its a great mobo for phenoms and stuff like that, but its pretty crappy for 8 series chips.

    Check your voltages, run p95 and check for errors. Run memchecker. You're running an 8350 and a 770. What is your PSU size?
  7. My PSU is a 750W 80+ bronze corsair, so I don't think it is likely that it is causing problems.
    If my chipset has 'gone bad' will I have to replace my motherboard?
  8. You can easily run games with one 4gb stick, and it's not permanent, just for testing for a bad stick.

    Try using a different SATA port on your motherboard for the one connecting to your SSD.

    If that doesn't work, take one stick of RAM out (for convenience purposes) and go into your BIOS and check your RAM voltage. The standard is 1.5V. If it's already there, increase it to 1.55V (for testing purposes). Also, if it already isn't on Command Rate 2T, change it to that. Command Rate 1T creates faster responses but is less stable. Reboot your PC and see if it crashes. If it still does, reduce the speed (try 800Mhz) and reboot again. If it still crashes then your probably don't have a RAM voltage issue.
  9. OK thanks for the advice gumbykid I will try that if the thermal paste doesn't work. It will take a day or two more to arrive by the way.
    Also how can I check if my chipset has 'gone bad'?
  10. Might as well try it while waiting for the thermal paste imo.

    Unfortunately I don't know a ton about chipsets, but generally they are difficult to diagnose because they interact with so many components. You can observe for physical damage (discoloration, scratches, etc). Chipsets are rarely the cause of issues unless you have integrated graphics and they are interfering with your GPU. So to the best of my knowledge, to diagnose it you should rule out every other component until you're left with your motherboard. Generally if a motherboard is damaged you will see it in it's capacitors, which will be swollen:

    Chipsets are electrically and physically molded into the motherboard and cannot be replaced.

    Also, does your computer freeze while in BIOS?
  11. It would be rather difficult to test if I freeze in BIOS as it takes a few hours of being on the computer (most likely playing games) for it to start freezing. After the first freeze, it would take about half an hour for it to freeze again. It gets faster and faster until it starts freezing after just a couple of minutes like it was on Saturday. If I got it to that stage I could go into the BIOS and see if it happened.
    Meanwhile yesterday I was playing online and it froze at about 9 o clock (I go to school by the way :) ) so I thought to see what happened if I took a stick of Ram out. Interestingly I was able to play until 10:30 when I went to bed...
    Dun dun dun!
    I will do some for testing. I takes a while as you can imagine but tonight I hope to see if it's a problem with that stick or dual memory. I may run out of time though. :) It could be that this was just a coincidence but it is promising.
  12. PresidentDylan5 said:
    It would be rather difficult to test if I freeze in BIOS as it takes a few hours of being on the computer (most likely playing games) for it to start freezing. After the first freeze, it would take about half an hour for it to freeze again. It gets faster and faster until it starts freezing after just a couple of minutes like it was on Saturday. If I got it to that stage I could go into the BIOS and see if it happened.
    Meanwhile yesterday I was playing online and it froze at about 9 o clock (I go to school by the way :) ) so I thought to see what happened if I took a stick of Ram out. Interestingly I was able to play until 10:30 when I went to bed...
    Dun dun dun!
    I will do some for testing. I takes a while as you can imagine but tonight I hope to see if it's a problem with that stick or dual memory. I may run out of time though. :) It could be that this was just a coincidence but it is promising.


    Don't get your hopes up. I had the same problem before and at one point the computer ran for 4 days without crashing, then proceeded to crash every 30 minutes. I'm now on a 7 day no-crash streak after I changed RAM settings.

    It won't hurt to test all the little easy things to narrow down the options, such as looking for swollen capacitors like in the picture above. Additionally you should download prime95 (CPU tester) and Furmark (GPU tester). They are used to test if overclocks are stable, but will also produce a lot of heat and stress on the specific component. If your computer crashes or freezes as a result of the test, you likely know which part is damaged.
  13. [sigh] Got a freeze (with both sticks) and so again took a stick of Ram out. It then froze when loading windows. I booted again and went into BIOS to look at voltage settings and it froze again, although it did take a minute. It froze in BIOS!!! Hopefully you can draw conclusions from that. :) Can't do anything right now for obvious reasons. Don't think it's ram then. Maybe my thermal paste will do something! Also I 'diagnosed memory problems' from control panel and it came up with no errors.
    Will try those tests tomorrow.


    Oh also that first freeze was completely outside of games, I was browsing Fallout mods and YouTube.
  14. The freezing in BIOS simply reassures me that it is not a software issue, so I don't have to go through additional troubleshooting.

    The Windows Memory Diagnostic isn't the best (the better test is memtest86+), it will only report obvious faults with the RAM modules. Did you change the voltages at all? The RAM tests will not report voltage issues, so don't take it as a clear sign of "Awesome my RAM works." Try the change in RAM voltages and speeds that I recommended earlier. I say this so much because it's what gave my computer a sign of life after having crashes and freezes (even in BIOS), so I want to see what effect it has on yours.

    I have doubts with the thermal paste because generally an overheating CPU will cause crashes and shutdowns, not freezes.

    You can also try a BIOS update (the extreme series got an update a couple months ago), however I would not recommend that quite yet because if your computer freezes during that then your motherboard is no longer functional.
  15. Well I wasn't certain on the windows ram test but it's a point. I was actually going to adjust voltages when I went into the BIOS after the freezes but couldn't find how to do it and then it froze. Should I try increasing the voltage when I try again?
    I was about to ask about updating BIOS. I don't think I said but on two occasions throughout this freezing problem I have had to use the 'reset CMOS' switch on the motherboard as it wouldn't boot (nothing on monitor); the first time was after the first ever freeze (oh so long ago) and the second (I think) was after I kept rebooting after freezes so it froze about 10 times! After I reset it that second time it continued to freeze, no change. Obviously all this is related to BIOS so you should definitely know about that. I am a bit concerned about updating though as I am fully aware that my computer would (most likely) be rendered useless if it froze while updating. If that happened I imagine my brain would undergo nuclear fission, and we don't want that. :) However, since I can (consistently now) use the PC for a good few hours before freezing begins, I am 'fairly' confident that it would be successful. What do you think???
  16. The RAM settings are located under OC Tweaker. Scroll down until you see DRAM Timing Control. Under that click on DRAM Configuration.

    Change the frequency to DDR3-800Mhz or a number close to that. Set the DRAM Voltage to 1.55V. The exact terms might be slightly different because i'm using images of the BIOS off of Google, which may be running a different update than yours.

    I would not recommend a BIOS update because of how risky it is. The latest version (2.90) only changes communication with the Internet. The one before that (2.80) fixes some RAM issues that were experienced with GSKILL F3-2133C11Q-32GZL modules. Generally you don't want to update your BIOS unless it fixes a specific problem you are experiencing.

    To clear all of this up, this is generally what gets hardware issues fixed the most conveniently:
    1) Replace as many parts as you can (one by one)
    a) Such as using a different PSU or GPU
    b) These should be parts you already have, not ones you have to purchase

    2) Run diagnostic tests
    a) Such as memtest86+ and prime95
    b) This is used to try to narrow down the parts you couldn't replace

    3) Change settings
    a) Such as voltages
    b) Updating your BIOS should be the last thing you try

    4) Purchase new parts to test further if needed
    a) This should be avoided until necessary to save money
    b) Most stores charge a restocking fee if you return the product (because it failed to fix your issue)

    Do you have any extra parts lying around that you could test?
  17. I don't have any other parts whatsoever. I will have to find time to run the memtest, it takes a very long time doesn't it? Wouldn't my computer just freeze before it could finish? I will run the other tests tonight though. How would I check if there's something wrong my my PSU?
  18. Memtest usually needs to run overnight because it takes a few hours to get enough passes. I would try it to see if I get lucky and get some info out of it. Generally if your RAM is messed up you'll see it pretty quick. Only use one stick though.

    PSU is difficult to actually test because it requires tools that you have to purchase (e.g., volt meter). Here are some symptoms of a faulty or dying PSU:
    http://www.informit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=31105&seqNum=12
    Any power-on or system startup failures or lockups.
    Spontaneous rebooting or intermittent lockups during normal operation.
    Intermittent parity check or other memory-type errors.
    Hard disk and fan simultaneously failing to spin (no +12v).
    Overheating due to fan failure.
    Small brownouts cause the system to reset.
    Electric shocks felt on the system case or connectors.
    Slight static discharges disrupt system operation.

    Here are motherboard failure symptoms:
    Everything powers on but you can't see a live screen
    Computer turns on for just a few seconds then turns off
    Some peripherals work others don't
    System shuts off randomly

    CPU Failure Symptoms:
    Computer turns on, no beeps, no screen. Does not POST (Power-On Self Test)
    Computer turns on, fans run at highest speeds, still no POST, and not operating system loading.
    Computer powers on, but turns off immediately.
    In Windows (or any other o.s.) screen freezes after being on for a few minutes, in some cases the screen may freeze during the load screen of the o.s. , a.k.a. the Windows logo screen.
    System halt errors (famously known as blue screen of death) that calls out the processor as an issue.

    RAM:
    Bluescreens (bluescreen of death)
    Random crashes or reboots
    Crashing during heavy memory use tasks, such as gaming, Photoshop etc.
    Distorted graphics on your computer screen
    Failure to boot (or turn on), and/or repeated long beeps
    Memory errors appear on screen
    Computer appears to boot, but screen remains blank


    Based on that I would assume your PSU is going bad or your RAM is faulty. Due to the testing methods, i've chosen to go with RAM first (although PSU is more probable).
  19. What? Looking at that I would think that the CPU is the problem. I have actually experienced all of those symptoms in the CPU section at least once, apart from blue screen and the second one (I think, don't know whaot POST is :) ). On two occasions booted but nothing on monitor, and no beep (I'm sure); once it powered on but shutted off (not froze) after a minute at most; of course I have been getting freezes and as I said it froze in the os loading screen. Again, I am reassured that the thermal paste might just work, not counting on it though.
    Besides that, I must say it is all too tempting to update the BIOS since I had to reset it after the First Ever Freeze. Surely it could have been corrupted or something? But at the same time what if it froze?! It would take 5 minutes so it is very very unlikely but still...

    PS: about the CPU it could have been damaged since I was letting it overheat all the time for at least a month.

    PS2: Oh I know what POST is now and I have experienced the second symptom.
  20. I would definitely try the thermal paste then. You cant undo heat damage. Also when you apply it, clean off the old crap with an alcohol pad and reseat the cpu.

    Reseating means taking the cpu out of the socket then placing it back in. Before you put it back in, very carefully observe the pins to see if any are bent or broken. Also look for heat damage (there will be obvious discolouration).

    Make sure you follow the ESD precautions (Electrostatic Discharge) so you dont damage anything. This typically involves grounding yourself and frequently releasing ESD to a grounded metal object. Google it for more info.

    Again, I would avoid the BIOS update until absolutely necessary. I would try the main fixes first, then update BIOS, then purchase new parts. Just know that if something goes wrong during the update, your motherboard will most definitely be useless.
  21. Um, holy moly. I changed the voltage of the ram from 1.55 to 1.65 and set the frequency to 800Mhz (which seems rather low since the default is 1600) and didn't get a freeze for 5 hours! I was not on the PC that whole time by the way I just left it on to test. This was after it had froze, which was (as predicted) after about 3 hours. Coincidence?
  22. Just make sure not to go too crazy, too many volts will overheat your RAM.

    And RAM frequencies really don't change your performance much in the real world. Benchmarks will show increased Read speeds but applications are difficult to notice any increases or decreases. If I secretly went into your BIOS and changed it from 1600 to 800 you wouldn't be able to tell.

    And it could very well be coincidence, so again don't get your hopes up.
  23. PresidentDylan5, If you have access to another known good working PSU of 600 or more watts, try swapping out your PSU. I have read through your misery here, and there is a good chance this is a psu issue.
    CPU's very rarely go bad, chipsets likewise rarely fail - unless there is some electrical problem (the most common reason).
    Also, and you may have already done this and I missed it in your posts, go into the BIOS and set it to 'default settings' before you fire it up to test it.
    Corsair makes really good stuff, generally, but even they occasionally have a bad unit: You didn't tell us the model of Corsair, but regardless - it may still be your problem. I had one of their HX units fail out of the box. Corsair Tech and Customer Support are excellent, should you find the PSU is the problem.

    !!! You said you cleaned it with a hair dryer: That probably doesn't have enough directed pressure. Get a can of air, and after blowing all the rest of the dust out of the computer, blow out and clean your PSU as well as you can. Might want to try this before swapping PSU's.
    @gumbykid:
    Hang in here with Dylan, your answers have been very good.
  24. So do you think it's safe to keep it at this voltage?
    Thanks for the post nostall, but I don't have another PSU to test, and I'll admit it sounds a bit hellish replugging all those cables anyway! :) I was considering a can for the dust but a £10 price tag for something that 'specialises' in getting rid of dust, and £5 for a refuel, isn't paticurarly attractive. Thinking about it, I forgot to do the fan on the power supply.
  25. [sigh again] More freezes this morning with same ram settings. I have just used cotton buds to get more dust from the CPU cooler and used the hairdryer on the PSU through the vents on the bottom of the case. I couldn't get to it otherwise as I would have to take it out of the case. I might resit CPU today just to get a look at it, despite thermal paste not arriving yet.
  26. Best answer
    Since it failed, return the RAM settings to normal. As nostall suggested, if you haven't already, reset everything to default. This should be under Exit>Restore Default Settings.

    Then reboot. If it crashes, change the Command Rate to 2T (I didn't see you post that you tried this).

    I agree with nostall as well about the PSU, it's just I'd rather try the little things before making you spend money or have a non-functioning computer while you're waiting for the replacement to come.

    Swapping out PSUs should take about 15 minutes if you're semi-experienced with it, could take up to 45 if you're really incompetent (it's just remembering where the cables used to be then plugging them back in).

    Did you run the two tests I suggested? They're important. If you run one then your computer shuts off, crashes, or freezes soon after then there is an obvious issue with that component. If it does crash I would repeat it once or twice more just to be sure it wasn't your normal freeze.
  27. Ok I will return RAM settings to normal. Will resetting to normal reset my boot drive? What does the command rate mean and where would that be?
    Oh it seems that the cpu test is an overnight thing as well. Will probably run that tonight then but not sure my dad will be all too happy about power consumption! :)
  28. If you had to change your boot drive in your current configuration, then yes you would have to change it again. Command Rate is under the RAM Timing Control. It may also say (CR) or have an N instead of a T.

    Command Rate is basically how many times your RAM has to review the information before it sends it back out. 1T is faster, 2T is more compatible.

    And I don't want you running the test overnight. I want you to run it while you can monitor the temps with a program like HWmonitor. If there is a serious issue it will crash fairly quickly due to heat or from just being faulty. It will only take hours to crash if there is a slight voltage issue, which is more common for Overclockers.
  29. Well I have had the test (prime95) running for about half an hour now and no freeze, and they fans seem to be running relatively quiet which is slightly confusing since it's meant to be a torture test... However, it was the 3rd option which said lots of RAM as it was checked by default and I didn't know what they meant! :) The cpu temperature is about 55C and it usually goes a bit above that on demanding games.

    So far it said this:
    [Feb 22 17:30] Worker starting
    [Feb 22 17:30] Setting affinity to run worker on logical CPU #1
    [Feb 22 17:30] Beginning a continuous self-test to check your computer.
    [Feb 22 17:30] Please read stress.txt. Choose Test/Stop to end this test.
    [Feb 22 17:30] Test 1, 6500 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M12451841 using AMD K10 type-2 FFT length 640K, Pass1=640, Pass2=1K.
    [Feb 22 17:36] Test 2, 6500 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M12451839 using AMD K10 FFT length 640K, Pass1=640, Pass2=1K.
    [Feb 22 17:41] Test 3, 6500 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M12196481 using AMD K10 type-2 FFT length 640K, Pass1=640, Pass2=1K.
    [Feb 22 17:47] Self-test 640K passed!
    [Feb 22 17:47] Test 1, 800000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M172031 using AMD K10 type-1 FFT length 8K, Pass1=32, Pass2=256.
    [Feb 22 17:50] Test 2, 800000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M163839 using AMD K10 type-1 FFT length 8K, Pass1=32, Pass2=256.
    [Feb 22 17:53] Test 3, 800000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M159745 using AMD K10 type-1 FFT length 8K, Pass1=32, Pass2=256.
    [Feb 22 17:56] Test 4, 800000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M157695 using AMD K10 type-1 FFT length 8K, Pass1=32, Pass2=256.
    [Feb 22 17:58] Test 5, 800000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M155649 using AMD K10 type-1 FFT length 8K, Pass1=32, Pass2=256.
    [Feb 22 18:00] Test 6, 800000 Lucas-Lehmer iterations of M153599 using AMD K10 type-1 FFT length 8K, Pass1=32, Pass2=256.


    PS: Can I play games while this is running? :D
  30. The Blend test factors RAM into the test, making it less CPU intensive. You can play games but they will be slow and can mess with the results (e.g, the PC crashes b/c of a graphics issue and you now think it's a CPU one).

    Try Furmark. This seems more like a PSU issue.

    Do you live close to a BestBuy?
  31. Should I have done one of the other tests? Should I stick to very undemanding games then?
    -Furmark seems to be a gpu test...

    -Um, no...

    Haven't froze since about 1:30 I have been playing Fallout 3 (not the whole afternoon!)
  32. Furmark is for GPUs and is a simple test to run so its worth it before buying parts.

    I asked because they will let you return a part at no fee, so it would be good to buy a PSU and quickly return it if it doesnt solve the issue.
  33. Just ran Furmark for 20 minutes and it got to 61-62C and stayed there (the chart was just a long horizontal line). No freezes.
  34. Okay, those temps are fine for a GPU.

    This is either a CPU or PSU issue. Before you buy any parts make sure to try reseating your CPU when you get the thermal paste.

    And just for safe measure, try hooking up your computer to a different monitor with a different cable, just in case there is some type of display issue. Your computer doesn't restart or shutdown, right? Just screen freezes?
  35. Wow problems with the monitor didn't even occur to me, but really I think it's unlikely as the problem resembles overheating or at least something similar. I played Battlefield which was notorious for overheating my CPU and that freezes after half an hour, then I leave the PC off for 5 minutes, play Fallout for hours with no freezes.
    Well I will get back to you once I've done the thermal paste; I don't think there's much worth doing before that. The latest it [should] arrive is Tuesday. Keep checking back and don't disappear! :D
  36. gumbykid said:
    The Blend test factors RAM into the test, making it less CPU intensive. You can play games but they will be slow and can mess with the results (e.g, the PC crashes b/c of a graphics issue and you now think it's a CPU one).

    Try Furmark. This seems more like a PSU issue.

    Do you live close to a BestBuy?


    gumbykid said:
    Furmark is for GPUs and is a simple test to run so its worth it before buying parts.

    I asked because they will let you return a part at no fee, so it would be good to buy a PSU and quickly return it if it doesnt solve the issue.


    Here's a link from Tom's re. cleaning and reapply thermal past:
    http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/333968-28-thermal-paste-removal-installation-guide
    Gumby's recommendation re. PSU is the next step if the CPU reseating doesn't solve the problem; but before you go to all the trouble of buying-trying-maybe returning a PSU Please do this: Go into your BIOS, look under (probably) Monitor or Hardware Monitor and post the listed voltages for 3.3, 5, and 12V.
    Then install HWInfo (whichever version fits your Operating System)
    http://www.hwinfo.com/download.php
    Post the voltages or a screen shot of the voltages shown on HWInfo.
  37. Yes a lot of the guides I've looked at, including this one you've sent me, say to use alcohol to remove the paste but I bought that ArtiClean stuff (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Arctic-Silver-ArctiClean-Material-Purifier/dp/B000BKP306). That will work fine surely? Also can I use cotton buds instead of a dry cloth if I don't have one?
    I will try the stuff for the PSU sometime tonight as I'll be out all day.
  38. Yeah the Artic stuff will work, just know for the future that's just overkill when alcohol works fine.

    You CAN use cotton swabs, however they are likely to leave behind lint. Many people say coffee filters will do the same cleaning without the lint. You could even use a papertowel, but it has the same issue as the cotton swabs. Q-tips also work. Just clean up after yourself and you'll be fine.
  39. gumbykid said:
    Yeah the Artic stuff will work, just know for the future that's just overkill when alcohol works fine.

    You CAN use cotton swabs, however they are likely to leave behind lint. Many people say coffee filters will do the same cleaning without the lint. You could even use a papertowel, but it has the same issue as the cotton swabs. Q-tips also work. Just clean up after yourself and you'll be fine.


    +1^
    An old, clean t-shirt works well also. The Artic Clean works REallyy well; forgot you had purchased it.
  40. Um, *sigh*, my temperatures have got worse with the new thermal paste. Before the highest was 68C, possibly 69; now it got to 72C on BF3. It was extremely awkward; I didn't do a perfect blob and it is really hard getting it on properly. I expect you've experienced this: you have to get the hooks over those things (hope you know what I'm talking about) and it results in moving the heatsink around slightly. Really don't want to have to it again.
    Oh and it froze.
  41. You must've applied it incorrectly or the heatsink is slightly out of position. Did you reseat the CPU like I suggested and look for any damage?

    As for your temperature issue my only advice is to make sure the heatsink has good contact with the cpu and is centered well. How thick did you apply it? Too much will ruin the purpose.
  42. I don't think I applied it to thick. I thought too much came out at first so I took a bit off with the cloth, and that meant a bit got smudged around the blob which was still a fair size anyway. And it was awkward getting the heat sink on. I also reseated the cpu and I couldn't see any damage. Do I really have to redo it? It took ages.

    I looked at those voltages. In the BIOS, it was +12.091 for 12V; +5.040 for 5V; +3.168 for 3.3V. The main voltage is 1.384-1.4. I couldn't really find the same things on that program other than the main voltage, which is 0.8750 on summary but when I look at the processor in detail it says 1.4250. Also this is probably normal but loads of things were marked 'not present' in standard feature flags.


    PS: Could it be possibly possible that the thermal paste takes time to settle? [Say yes] Right now my temperature is 11C. Maybe the BIOS is a demanding application now.
  43. There's a possibility that you may have to reapply it. It needs to be even and spread out as a thin layer, any bulges, bubbles, or areas with more or less paste can cause poor transfer of heat. Is the heatsink stable? As in it won't move if you gently nudge it. And it can be hard to see, but does the center of the heatsink appear to be on the CPU? Slight adjustments there can cause heat spikes.

    As for your voltages, i'll leave it to nostall since I don't understand power supplies all that well.
  44. The heatsink does move very slightly if I nudge it, yes. Also there do seem to be spikes, as my temperature is around 10-15C but it says the maximum in this time 45C!
    Oh my god I have to reapply it...
    How do I get it out the tube so it's a blob and not a 'spiked blob' if you know what I mean? Is that important?
  45. You don't have to reapply it if your temp is reaching 45C.

    How consistent are your temperatures? The monitoring program could be wrong.
  46. PresidentDylan, I wouldn't worry to much about the thermal paste, your CPU is within specifications. Here's another link with a picture of how the paste should have looked before mounting the heatsink - at least for their tests. If the paste isn't oozing over the side of the cpu socket it should be o.k. for now.
    http://www.hardwaresecrets.com/article/Thermal-Compound-Roundup-February-2012/1490/3
    What does concern me is the voltage on the 3.3 rail. If the BIOS is showing 3.168, that is 4% below specification - with the computer NOT doing anything. I would suspect it would get lower as the pc warms up. You never did tell us, or I missed it, what the EXACT model of Corsair PSU is that you have, but it is now time to call Corsair customer service and tell them or Tech support all that you have done to rectify the problem and you suspect the PSU may be a the problem. Be sure to mention testing the RAM also. (It has probably been mentioned, but if you have someone else willing to let you install your RAM in their PC that is a good test - if their working PC fails with your RAM then the RAM is bad; Corsair would probably agree).
    See what they have to say (I assume it is still under warranty). +3.3 votage rail used to be one of the primary power sources for the video card, and it is still a major source for that PCI-E slot and video card; if it is going lower, it probably is the cause of your problems.
  47. Um ok so the voltage gets lower as the load gets higher? And the rail you are concerned about supplies the video card mostly? In that case why is that the gpu test (Furmark) didn't freeze? The exact model is the CX750. It had a five year warranty! Do you think they'd be willing to send a replacement without too much hassle, and would I be without a PC for a few days at least?
    Just checked again the 3.3 voltage is still about the same. Both of my readings have been after freezing though; in a period of n freezing I will have another look. Would this confirm your thoughts?
    So you think my CPU temperatures are fine? Interestingly I'm not having the lag spikes I was having before but am running at similar temperatures...

    PS: my blob didn't seem to be as big as the one on the picture. Guess I might have been too cautious :D
  48. PresidentDylan5 said:
    Um ok so the voltage gets lower as the load gets higher? And the rail you are concerned about supplies the video card mostly? In that case why is that the gpu test (Furmark) didn't freeze? The exact model is the CX750. It had a five year warranty! Do you think they'd be willing to send a replacement without too much hassle, and would I be without a PC for a few days at least?
    Just checked again the 3.3 voltage is still about the same. Both of my readings have been after freezing though; in a period of n freezing I will have another look. Would this confirm your thoughts?
    So you think my CPU temperatures are fine? Interestingly I'm not having the lag spikes I was having before but am running at similar temperatures...

    PS: my blob didn't seem to be as big as the one on the picture. Guess I might have been too cautious :D


    Call Corsair. CX units are good, but not as well built as the TX, HX, or AX units.
  49. The customer service is rather awkward it says to wait at least a day for a response...
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