Water cooling tube compatibility

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z1103246

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Oct 4, 2013
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Ubrales
The tubing size is generally 3/4" O.D and 1/2" I.D. - Fittings can be either 'Compression' type or 'Barb' type. - The Compression fittings require some periodic maintenance and must be snugged up regularly because the plastic will creep. The Barb type fittings utilize a clamp (similar to automotive radiator fittings) and normally do not need maintenance.

Another advantage to Barbs and Clamps is that they do not need the correct tightening torque that Compression fittings do, and are more forgiving. An over-torqued Compression fitting on plastic tubing is on the path to failure (and under-torquing will create leaks).

For these reasons I recommend Barbs & Clamps - Worm Drive Hose Clamps - For reference...
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Davil

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Feb 2, 2012
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It does not matter, every fitting will be G1/4. What will matter depending on the type of fitting (compression or barbed) the tubing size. But basically you just get tubing that matches your fittings. For barb fittings you only have to worry about the inner diameter so if it's a 1/2" fittings you get tubing with an inner diameter of 1/2". If it's a compression fitting that's 3/4"x1/2" you get tubing with an outer diameter of 3/4" and an inner diameter of 1/2". Make sure you get plenty and really if you have a home depot or lowes nearby you can actually find the tubing there very cheap as well.

To make things not leak you just have to use the clamps that come with your barb fittings or if they're compression fittings tighten it down well enough. The only other important thing is to make sure you cut the tubing ends as flat as possible, if you cut it at an angle it's more likely it might leak a little. It's really not difficult though just watch a couple videos on fittings.

As far as your radiators and pump, yea it looks like they should perform just fine. I'm not a big fan of pump/res combos but that's just my preference really.
 
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Ubrales

Ubrales

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Dec 3, 2009
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The tubing size is generally 3/4" O.D and 1/2" I.D. - Fittings can be either 'Compression' type or 'Barb' type. - The Compression fittings require some periodic maintenance and must be snugged up regularly because the plastic will creep. The Barb type fittings utilize a clamp (similar to automotive radiator fittings) and normally do not need maintenance.

Another advantage to Barbs and Clamps is that they do not need the correct tightening torque that Compression fittings do, and are more forgiving. An over-torqued Compression fitting on plastic tubing is on the path to failure (and under-torquing will create leaks).

For these reasons I recommend Barbs & Clamps - Worm Drive Hose Clamps - For reference: http://www.gen-aircraft-hardware.com/images/pdf/breeze.pdf
Automotive parts stores carry an assortment of these clamps.

When it comes to fittings, I recommend 'Bends' (gradual 90 degrees) instead of 'Elbows' (abrupt 90 degrees) because a Bend will offer less resistance to liquid flow.

When you setup the system make sure that the pump is below the reservoir because these pumps are not self-priming. If run dry failure will occur.
 
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manofchalk

manofchalk

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May 11, 2012
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Near all components take G1/4" threads, so the actual size of the tube and fitting doesnt matter so long as the part that screws in on the fitting is G1/4".
As for what you should have as tubing/fitting size, TBH it doesn't really matter so much as they fit together and the ID is 1/4" or larger. With Barb+Clamp fittings, the ID needs to match between barb and tubing, where the clamp needs to match the tubing's OD. On Compressions, the ID and OD need to match on both fitting and tubing. The difference between the two types of fittings... Compressions look better for a few dollars more, pretty much it.
 
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manofchalk

manofchalk

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May 11, 2012
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No, nowhere close.
The best 360mm radiator (that's been tested by Martins Liquid Lab) is the Alphacool UT60, it can cool ~350W at ~2300RPM (Titan Kukri fans).
alphacool-ut60-pd1.png

http://martinsliquidlab.org/2012/04/12/alphacool-nexxxos-ut60-360-radiator/4/

I would be looking at a 360+240mm setup for that loop.
 
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Davil

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Not trying to sound rude but, well you're referencing something from April 2012. The heat source is only 300w so why would you expect to be cooling more than 300w in the first place? I don't see what the ambient temperature is, if that's what is meant by delta than 10c is a really low ambient temperature. They actually dissipate more watts at higher ambient temperatures. And if you don't want to believe that, I could show you how I have a thick 240mm rad with 2 fans in push that is cooling an i7 4770k OC'ed to 4.5ghz and 2 GTX 680 signatures oc'ed (only 50w lower tdp than 780) and keeping everything under 65c in prime95 and furmark. So that's why I can with confidence say that his set up will cool things just fine.

This is a normal Koolance radiator's graph

hx-cu1020v_g1.gif


I really have to just look at experience vice what an old website that can't cover every radiator out there says. I know that my radiator before I added my graphics cards was cooling my CPU the same as it is now after adding the graphics cards. You can't tell me that the 400w my two cards are putting out calls for adding a triple to the loop when I know very well that it does not.
 
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Davil

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Yep you're right about the delta. But yes I will trust them because I use it and I can see that it works. On top of that since they publish their results I feel I can trust that because if it isn't actually true than it's a company in the USA and they'd be obligated to refund me based on it not performing as advertised. The problem I have with martin's liquid lab, is it's basically a guy with no visible credentials telling you what his results are based on his method of testing which you just have to take his word on anyway. At least taking the company's word for it I have some kind of insurance whereas if I tried to return a product based on it not meeting what a third party with no affliation's findings I would have no merit. Plus again that was 2 years ago.

And again I have to go with what I know from experience. I know for 100% sure that my 240 radiator is cooling over 450w quite effectively. So according to what you posted that's impossible because not even a really good 360 radiator can do that. So this is why I can place absolutely 0 trust in liquid labs at least for radiators. Logically a radiator with more surface area should cool more efficiently so adding roughly 1/3 of what mine can do so that it cools 600w makes perfect sense.
 
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