Problem Returned! PC Shuts Down, Fans go Full Blast

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ironman60

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So my last post here regarding this problem (http://www.tomshardware.com/answers/id-2055650/shutdown-fans-full-blast-minutes-game-benchmark.html) was the 10th, and I clearly spoke way too soon in spite of promising results. Everything seemed to be going fine as I had reported, but now the problem has returned. Within about ten to twenty minutes of playing a game, my PC kills everything but DOESN'T restart. The fans go full speed and the rig sits there like it's hibernating. My guess is that this is an overheating issue (as before), however I have CPU Temps reading around 60C idle, 45-50C when under load (fan kicks up and does it job pretty well). The GPU seemed to be the culprit as previously reported, however I installed MSI Afterburner, created a fairly aggressive fan speed graph, and the GPU gets up to around 65C while under load but does so very slowly.

I can hear the fans adjusting and the new piece of evidence is that they don't keep ramping up as I play. This means that (even though I don't see it), the temperature should be holding steady. I went ahead and verified that this is the case using Furmark.

So it doesn't seem to be the CPU or the GPU. After the most recent shutdown, I went ahead and gave a couple areas a feel to see if they really were all that hot. The CPU and GPU were perfectly fine - warm, but not 'overheating' warm. The chipset on my Mobo, however, as I reported before, was pretty uncomfortable to keep a finger on.

Is mobo overheating a thing? Is there something else I should be looking for? :(

Here are my specs for anyone who hasn't seen them before:

1. CORSAIR Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Memory

2. AMD FX-8350 Black Edition Vishera 4.0GHz (4.2GHz Turbo) Socket AM3+ 125W 8-Core Processor

3. XFX Double D FX797GTDFC Radeon HD 7970 GHz Edition 3GB 384-Bit GDDR5 GPU

4. ASRock Fatal1ty 990FX Killer AM3+ AMD 990FX SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX AMD Motherboard

5. Fractal Design Integra R2 750W ATX12V SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS BRONZE Certified PSU

6. OS is Windows 7 Home 64-Bit

My case has a ton of air flow (2x200mm, 1x120mm, lots of vents) and I keep the interior immaculate.

Anyone got ideas?
 

ironman60

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I understand. I don't think it's the CPU - as mentioned the temperatures are fairly common for a CPU under load. That said, I can't say if it's the PSU - is there some way to test that?
 
yeah with like voltage meters, you can see what the true output really is... i love fractal design cases but idk about their PSU's. That PSU, according to EggXpert PSU hierarchy chart, is tier 3 so. The corsairs and seasonics and XFX's the brands that are usually recommended usually sit in their 2 (a) or higher. sometimes tier 2 (b). I wouldnt be surprised if thats the cause. actually one thing you said needs to be cleared up cause it isnt normal, 60C at idle is way too high for idle, but whats even weirder is the drop in temp after being put under load...i get that the fans kick in but thats not how it should be still.
 

ironman60

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Sorry for the huge delay in posts, but I decided to go ahead and get a new CPU fan. As mentioned, AMD Overdrive reads my CPU temp as sitting idle around 60C, which for idle is high. I finished installing the new fan - it's a big sonuvabitch (link: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103057). Anyway, I went ahead and re-ran furmark1.13 benchmark (1280x1024, 4x AA) and as before my machine shut down right about halfway. The GPU didn't get hotter than 65C, however I couldn't see the CPU temp (furmark in the way).

I'm honestly thinking that AMD Overdrive (for whatever reason) can't read the temp properly. Thing is that the temperature fluctuates so wildly - it DOES linger around 60, but several times will drop to 50 or even 48 randomly and be back up around 60 again a few seconds later.

Bottom line is that if it is the CPU, a new fan (with a helluvalot of cooling ability) isn't doing the trick, so what else is there? Also should I just say F it and take the thing to a shop or something? I'd really like to be able to play games again. :/
 

ironman60

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I think so, yeah. Is it just that simple- swap in/out and see what happens? I can probably give it a shot in the next week or so- my work schedule is fairly hectic. I assume I'll need to re-d/l old drivers and such.
 


a new fan for the stock cooler wont help that much. you need a new cooler with a new fan
 

ironman60

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I'm confused then. What is it I need to be looking for?
 


you are using the stock cooler that came with the 8350? If your case can fit one, a HYPER 212 EVO or a Noctua D14 Cooler will make worlds of difference. but before investing more i would look further into the CPU temps under different kinds of stress. try to find a program that will log the temps to a text file or something
 

ironman60

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I looked at the Hyper 212 and D14 and I'm still not seeing any difference between the terms "cpu fan" and "cooler" personally. Googling with one name or the other and the same make/model yields identical results. Anyway, the fan/cooler I posted is well-seated and running perfectly so far as I can tell - which of course makes me worry about why the temperature seems unchanged.

I'll look around for a CPU temp program and also aim to try swapping out vid cards sooner than later to see if that resolves anything.
 


https://www.google.com/search?q=Hyper+212+evo&espv=210&es_sm=122&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=ohIzU7nOL8ynqQHIiID4CA&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAg&biw=1517&bih=741&dpr=0.9#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=ci93UqLu0gh0mM%253A%3BZTkF6DTs1bKAjM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.coolermaster-usa.com%252Fupload%252Fproduct%252F3053%252Fgallery%252Ffull%252F1.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.coolermaster-usa.com%252Fproduct.php%253Fproduct_id%253D3053%3B590%3B442

thats the Hyper 212. a "CPU COOLER" consists of the CPU heatsink (the silver grill/finned block, this actually draws the heat up and away from the cpu) and the fan thats attached to the heatsink (the black plastic fan, this blows cool air THROUGH the heatsink, to cool it down, as to be able to continue to draw heat away from the CPU. the fan will direct the hot air out the back of the case).

to my understanding, you have the stock cooler, and all you did was get a new fan for it (the heatsink is the same). you will need a new heatsink to go with that new fan. all CPU coolers like the hyper and noctua come with heatsink AND a fan. you can use the fan you bought as an additional CPU fan in a push pull configuration (one each side)

https://www.google.com/search?q=hyper+212+push+pull&espv=210&es_sm=122&tbm=isch&imgil=Qce_PWhjVATDnM%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com%252Fimages%253Fq%253Dtbn%253AANd9GcTt-BGEtKtJajYuOREiuUuRqFpHIcA-ucqZd7dpDp_MBVdvaBHOEg%253B800%253B907%253Bnv-GfSxprhCb-M%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fgigaflopd.blogspot.com%25252F&source=iu&usg=__hI7XSIVUWyDG89hu3l0h5lb2nfw%3D&sa=X&ei=ahMzU7zsKMPyqgHd64CYBg&ved=0CD0Q9QEwAw#facrc=_&imgrc=Qce_PWhjVATDnM%253A%3Bnv-GfSxprhCb-M%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252F2.bp.blogspot.com%252F-Ta6-2NSLwm8%252FTsLYcZV81JI%252FAAAAAAAAA_U%252FDiZIrwgG7zo%252Fs1600%252Fhyper-212-plus-push-pull.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fgigaflopd.blogspot.com%252F%3B800%3B907
 
A CPU cooler is made up of two parts: A heat sink and a fan (or two or three)
The heatsink is made of metal, usually copper or aluminum, it's big and has pipes and metal fins so the heat can travel thru the metal and then hit the air where:
The fans on the heatsink pull/blow it away inside the rest of the case where the case fans will direct it outwards, but this requires you to have proper air flow management that consists of:
Fans on the rear and top of the case blow air out. (heat rises)
All other fans should pull air in. (front, sides)
If all your fans are exhausting air, it's actually harder to get it out of the case, and if they are all intaking air, you're also trapping the heat inside, you need to properly direct the air out.

But the fans can't do much if the ambient temperature of the room is high, as your computer will always be hotter than your room, and will make it hotter as well. (Room is 70F degrees, cpu is 70F degrees when turned off, when turned on it jumps to 100F (more or less) and then the cpu cooler pulls that heat off and directs it outside the case, now your room is hotter by like 10 degrees, so the cpu will get hotter even further, ect) How's the airflow in your room as well? might want to open a window, or turn on a fan so the air in your room isn't stagnant.
 

ironman60

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Ah I see what you are saying. I never realized that fans were sold separately or something. Anyways, there is indeed a heatsink AND fans included with what I bought. The ONLY thing attached to the mobo at the time of installation was the CPU itself - no heatsink, no fans, nothing. I installed what I bought (with heatsink AND fans) and that's where we are.
 

ironman60

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Hahaha no no no, I understand that much. No, I meant to say that I took OFF the stock cooler and there was NOTHING then prior to installing the new one. I was just trying to be specific so as to eliminate any further confusion. I know a CPU needs a cooler at all times and I wouldn't run one without it. My CPU has always had a cooler on it during this issue, initially it was the stock cooler and the problem seemed resolved once I set up MSI Afterburner. The problem has returned, though, as mentioned and I hadn't changed anything to the best of my knowledge. AMD Overdrive says my CPU idles around 50-60C, which I'm told is rather high. Even after installing the new cooler the readings remain unchanged.

Also as a small aside- I noticed something kind of curious. When I watch movies with Media Player Classic, my GPU temp will rise from ~32C to around 44C. However, watching the same movie with the same resolution etc. on VLC player won't raise it at all. Not sure if this has ANY connection to my issue, but it seemed in the same vein so there it is.

Anyway, as I said I'll look out for a better CPU temp program and try swapping GPUs within a few days. :]
 

ironman60

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Couldn't say for certain, it's 16C outside currently. I'd guess my room's about 20-25C tops.
 


Do you have good airflow around your PC? like is there around 2-feet of space between it's vents and any nearby objects that might block the air movement? Can you get a fan to move the air around your room better, its possible your PC is blowing out hot air and it has nowhere to go so it just sucks it back in again.
 

ironman60

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If we assume we're looking at the computer's face, there's two feet on its left and right sides and about one foot behind it. I've had the left side of the case off at several points while it has been running and a fan going in my room to have air moving about. There's a 200mm fan on the top and face, and a 120mm on the back. The fan on the face draws air in, the other two drive it out. I keep the interior pretty spotless by blowing it out with comp. air maybe once or twice a week, especially now that I'm regularly opening it up to check things relating to this problem.
 
Hmm, my old motherboard used to have an overheating NorthBridge, that if I was playing games and didnt have my Air conditioner turned on and at 63 F my computer would crash and tell me "NB exceeds temperature."
And you have good airflow around your pc.... you don't have any crash logs you can look at? I'm assuming you don't get BSODs, your computer just shuts off and won't turn back on for about a minute right?
That's definitely an overheating problem.
 

ironman60

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Yeah no BSODs whatsoever. The monitor input goes out, fans go to 100% speed, and the thing sits there. I can force it to shutdown (and do) and when I bring everything back up it's like there was never an issue - save for the whole "Windows did not shut down properly" message. CPU/GPU temps appear to be relatively fine. Is there some program I could use to capture a crash log of some kind? That'd be nifty as I can induce the problem pretty quickly just by running Furmark.

What's a north bridge btw? I asked a few times about my mobo's chipset feeling crazy hot but nobody ever said anything about it either way. I also read about ASRock mobos have problems with overheating VRM or something? I don't know anything about that. Think I saw the north/south bridges mentioned too, but all these things are for other mobos made by ASRock and not my particular motherboard afaik. Also I'm out of my depth where all of those things are concerned.
 

ironman60

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Yeah I replaced it with the installation of the cooler. Anytime I install a new cooler I get rid of the old thermal paste.
 
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