$1200 UDS Gaming PC Build Challenge!

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Roaraxe565

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HI, I am looking to build my self a new computer for gaming and light video editing. I primarily play WoW, CoD, Titanfall, and NFS. I would like to be able to play on High/Ultra/Max settings at 40+ FPS (preferably 60).I have allocated $1200 UDS for the build (excluding monitors, and other peripherals i.e. mouse/keyboard/headset).

RESTRICTIONS: The build must have an Internal Wireless Network Card as I do not have an option to hardwire.

Thanks in advance!!
 
Solution
barto
You should get the 4670k and the Z87 board. The 3570k is on a dead socket (1155) where no more CPUs are being made for the socket. The 4670k uses the newest socket (1150) and Broadwell (Intel's next Gen CPU) will use the 1150 socket.
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barto

barto

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How strict is that budget?


PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.98 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($33.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock Z87 Extreme4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($76.98 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.23 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($346.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair Professional 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($103.98 @ Newegg)
Total: $969.14
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-24 08:46 EDT-0400)

Solid parts. You don't need a 4770k unless you are doing a lot of video editing. And if you are going to overclock, you'll want a good cooler and good motherboard to do so. 1866MHz RAM isn't needed. There's no gaming boost from faster RAM. I left room for case and Wifi card. Those are easy pickens. There's a big difference between buying parts and buying quality parts.

Do you need an OS as well?
 
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sadams04

sadams04

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The CPU cooler is worse than the stock Intel cooler, the memory is ho-hum at best (high latency at that price), no SSD. There are also better choices for a PSU at 550w...
 
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sadams04

sadams04

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For sake of additional options... The build below is an ITX form factor, low latency memory, blazing fast SSD, BD-RW, and ready to be overclocked with water cooling.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.99 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Seidon 120M 86.2 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($64.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-Z87N-WIFI Mini ITX LGA1150 Motherboard ($136.97 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws X Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($79.02 @ NCIX US)
Storage: Samsung 840 Pro Series 256GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($199.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($319.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Cooler Master Elite 130 Mini ITX Tower Case ($55.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic S12G 550W 80+ Gold Certified ATX Power Supply ($80.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer ($53.99 @ Newegg)
Total: $1210.91
 
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Roaraxe565

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I did not mean to pick the other one as the solution, is there a way to un select it or pick a different one?
I do need an , windows 8 or 8.1,
What do you mean how strict?
 
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barto

barto

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You can just Unselect it. But I just did since you asked.

What I mean is, is there some flexibility in the budget? $1250? $1300? Just cuirous.
 
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Roaraxe565

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Thanks =) yeah I couldn't find the option to un select it (might be because I'm on a Surface 2 ATM donno.)

There is a little bit of flexibility but I would like to try to keep it under $1200, If the extra can be justified then I have no problem spending it.

PS: Do you think $1200 is too much for a first time build?
 
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barto

barto

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Not at all. I think it's a really good start. I asked if it was strict simply because if you could fit an SSD into the build, you should.

http://pcpartpicker.com/part/samsung-internal-hard-drive-mz7te120bw
 
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abeer72

abeer72

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what's wrong with it?
 
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Roaraxe565

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How's this?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-4670K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($234.98 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($33.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Motherboard: ASRock Z87 Extreme4 ATX LGA1150 Motherboard ($119.99 @ Micro Center)
Memory: G.Skill Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($76.98 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($59.23 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($346.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Corsair Professional 650W 80+ Gold Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($103.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($19.98 @ OutletPC)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($34.99 @ Micro Center)
Total: $1109.10

At the moment there is no OS, What do you recommend? Also do you think it would be wise to get the CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($33.98 @ SuperBiiz)?

I also still need a Case, I was looking at the Thermaltake Chaser MK-1 and the Coolermaster Storm Scout/Trooper.

 
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barto

barto

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I usually don't comment on cases because I've always felt that people buy them for appearance first and functionality second. Both of those cases are nice, bit expensive, but will work well. I actually included the CPU cooler. The CM 212 EVO is a good cooler for average overclocking.

As for the OS, personally I think Windows 8 (and 8.1) are ugly which is why I've stuck with W7. However, they have/are making improvements with W8.1 where you can add the start menu (with an app) and completely skip the tile launcher. If you plan on playing BF4, I do suggest 8.1 because it has been proven to have higher/stable frames in BF4. Other than that, there's pretty much no difference between the OS'.

The build will be nice. Few things to know about a SSD. You do not defrag them. SSD's don't write sequentially. They write in different sectors. So if you defrag them, you are actually scrambling the files on the SSD. Also, you should only fill up the SSD to about 75%. You will want to leave about 25% space open due to how the SSD reads and writes files.

The main thing you should put on the SSD is the OS for faster boots. With W8.1, you'll probably have about 15 second boots. With W7, you'll probably have about 25 second boots. SSDs do not provide any gaming improvements other than faster load times. So games will predominately go on the HDD. I bought a 250GB SSD to bypass this.

Also, Titanfall is a huge game. Roughly 50GBs.
 
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barto

barto

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I wouldn't call it terrible but there are definitely areas for improvement. Let's break it down.


CPU:Intel Core i7-4770K 3.5GHz ($329.98 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler:Arctic Cooling UCACO-AP11301-BUA01 ($9.98 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z87 Pro3 ATX LGA1150 ($94.99 @ Newegg)
Memory:A-Data XPG V2 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1866 Memory ($79.99 @ Newegg)
Storage:Hitachi Deskstar 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($99.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($319.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: NZXT Guardian 921 RB ($69.99 @ Best Buy)
Power Supply: Antec EarthWatts Platinum 550W 80+ Platinum ($89.99 @ Amazon)
Optical Drive: Asus BC-12B1ST/BLK/B/AS Blu-Ray Reader, DVD/CD Writer ($58.98 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($84.98 @ OutletPC)
Wireless Network Adapter: Asus PCE-N10 802.11b/g/n PCI-Express x1 ($14.98 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1252.85

First, for gaming an i5 will have pretty much the same performance as an i7. There are very few games that actually benefit from HyperThreading. Now if the budget permits an i7, go for it.
Second, the Arctic Cooler you linked isn't designed for overclocking. It would be a horrible choice for any Intel K CPU. It doesn't have good airflow for the heat sink or a large enough heat sink for optimal cooler for the higher CPU frequencies or voltage.
The motherboard is OK. But is has average cooling (heat spreaders on the VRMs) and average power phase design with a 4+1 design. For overclocking, typically the more power phases, the cleaner, cooler and more stable clocks can be achieved.
The memory is ok but unless the OP wants to explore overclocking RAM, there's no need for it. There is no performance difference between 1600 and 2800 RAM.
The only other thing that stands out is the 550 watt Platinum power supply. There's nothing wrong with it other than there's little need for a power supply with a Platinum rating. Most people don't care about that level of efficiency.
 
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Roaraxe565

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Oops I ment to ask if I should get Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($6.73 @ OutletPC) because I have heard that stock the Thermal Compound that comes stock on Heat Sinks aren't that great.

Also what do you mean by defrag?
 
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barto

barto

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image_thumb_4.png


Do not do this to the SSD.

http://lifehacker.com/5976424/what-is-defragging-and-do-i-need-to-do-it-to-my-computer
 
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Roaraxe565

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How's this build?

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU: Intel Core i5-3570K 3.4GHz Quad-Core Processor ($215.98 @ SuperBiiz)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.99 @ NCIX US)
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 High-Density Polysynthetic Silver 3.5g Thermal Paste ($6.73 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock Z77 Extreme4 ATX LGA1155 Motherboard ($133.98 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair Vengeance 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory ($74.98 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung 840 EVO 120GB 2.5" Solid State Disk ($84.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($84.81 @ Amazon)
Video Card: MSI GeForce GTX 770 2GB Video Card ($319.99 @ NCIX US)
Case: Corsair 300R ATX Mid Tower Case ($59.99 @ Micro Center)
Power Supply: SeaSonic M12II 650W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply ($95.98 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS DVD/CD Writer ($18.99 @ Newegg)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 8.1 (OEM) (64-bit) ($89.98 @ OutletPC)
Wireless Network Adapter: TP-Link TL-WDN4800 802.11a/b/g/n PCI-Express x1 Wi-Fi Adapter ($34.99 @ Micro Center)
Total: $1241.41
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-03-25 09:04 EDT-0400)

How do you feel about the 3570k vs the 4670k?
 
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barto

barto

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Agreed. The newer tech isn't much more and there is the possibility of upgrading to a newer chip down the road.
 
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Roaraxe565

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I'm sorry but that really confused me. So I should go with the 4670k for the higher IPC. Or Go with the 3570k so that I spend less and upgrade later.

Also what is IPC?
 
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barto

barto

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You should get the 4670k and the Z87 board. The 3570k is on a dead socket (1155) where no more CPUs are being made for the socket. The 4670k uses the newest socket (1150) and Broadwell (Intel's next Gen CPU) will use the 1150 socket.
 
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Solution
barto

barto

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Roaraxe565

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I like the look and specs of the MSI Z87-G45 (I also am going with the MSI GTX-770 and I think they would look great together). While looking at it I stumbled upon the Z87-GD65 Is that one any good?
 
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barto

barto

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The Z87-GD65 is good. I don't think it's worth the extra cash. The boards I selected will work equally well if not better in some cases because of their cooling design.

Getting a MSI board and a MSI GPU isn't a bad idea. If that's what work for you, go for it.
 
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