CPU and GPU temps are very high
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Last response: in CPUs
isa108
May 12, 2014 4:37:47 PM
I was playing Batman: Arkham Origins with everything maxed out on 1600x900 and there was absolutely no lagging or tearing, but when I exited the game to check my temps, my CPU was wavering between 68-72C and my GPU was between 70-74C. I use Speedfan, and it said my Temp2 was 128C, is that some kind of software bug or was my CPU hitting phenomenal temps? I have a case with only the exhaust fan working, but I keep the side off, so the whole left is exposed to air. I'm using the stock AMD cooler. Should I get some more fans in my case or what's happening? Thank you!
SPECS:
Mobo: MSI-970A-G43
CPU: AMD FX-6300 Black Edition
GPU: HIS AMD Radeon 7790
PSU: Corsair CX600M
SPECS:
Mobo: MSI-970A-G43
CPU: AMD FX-6300 Black Edition
GPU: HIS AMD Radeon 7790
PSU: Corsair CX600M
More about : cpu gpu temps high
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isa108
May 12, 2014 6:12:29 PM
clutchc said:
Are you sure you are reading the right temp? CPU temp is not usually listed as Temp2 on most temp monitoring software. What were you using?74C is great for a gfx card while gaming. They can run a hotter temps than CPUs.
Isn't the CPU temp listed as Temp1? I'm using Speedfan. So my GPU is still in good condition?
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Best solution
It varies by the pgm. Usually, the CPU is the first temp listed whether that first one in 1 or 0. But if there are core temps as well, the temp 0 may be the socket temp which runs slightly cooler than the cores. In the case of the FX-6300, you should be able to read core temps. Try HWMonitor. http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor/versions-histo...
Yes, the gfx card temp is quite normal for gaming temp. If that were idle temp, you'd have a problem.
Yes, the gfx card temp is quite normal for gaming temp. If that were idle temp, you'd have a problem.
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isa108
May 12, 2014 7:13:19 PM
clutchc said:
It varies by the pgm. Usually, the CPU is the first temp listed whether that first one in 1 or 0. But if there are core temps as well, the temp 0 may be the socket temp which runs slightly cooler than the cores. In the case of the FX-6300, you should be able to read core temps. Try HWMonitor. http://www.cpuid.com/softwares/hwmonitor/versions-histo...Yes, the gfx card temp is quite normal for gaming temp. If that were idle temp, you'd have a problem.
I downloaded HW Monitor, and the temps match up with Speedfan. Is it normal for my CPU to be at 53C when I'm doing some light browsing like email, typing, etc? My GPU on the other hand is 38C.
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If you are speaking of your core temps being at 53C, that is a bit warm for light duty. What does it idle at... just sitting at the desktop for a minute or so?
The stock cooler is a tiny little thing with not even a copper insert. But it shouldn't idle at more than high 30Cs or low 40Cs. What's your case like?
The stock cooler is a tiny little thing with not even a copper insert. But it shouldn't idle at more than high 30Cs or low 40Cs. What's your case like?
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isa108
May 12, 2014 7:24:04 PM
clutchc said:
If you are speaking of your core temps being at 53C, that is a bit warm for light duty. What does it idle at... just sitting at the desktop for a minute or so?The stock cooler is a tiny little thing with not even a copper insert. But it shouldn't idle at more than high 30Cs or low 40Cs. What's your case like?
There's no difference between it just idling on my email, and me clicking through replying to messages. The temperature stays at 49-52C.
My case is a scrap case I got from a friend. It's missing a lot of covers and all that, but there's lots of air flowing through. The whole left side is open. I don't have a intake fan on it though.
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Reply to isa108
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That's too warm. Something is wrong. Either the temp reading is off, or it is not cooling properly.
Is it free of dust and dirt? Cables tied out of the way for good airflow? You really need an intake and exhaust fan at the very least. Even with the side off, heat builds up and can't escape as good as moving in and out via fans.
Have you ever had to remove the cooler? Once you install a cooler, if it ever has to be removed whether for adjustment or some other reason, you must clean off the old thermal paste and apply new. Otherwise microscopic air bubbles form and retard heat transfer between CPU and heat sync.
Try this... run Prime95 and watch the core temps for a few minutes. If they get past 65C, stop Prime95.
http://www.mersenne.org/download/index.php
Is it free of dust and dirt? Cables tied out of the way for good airflow? You really need an intake and exhaust fan at the very least. Even with the side off, heat builds up and can't escape as good as moving in and out via fans.
Have you ever had to remove the cooler? Once you install a cooler, if it ever has to be removed whether for adjustment or some other reason, you must clean off the old thermal paste and apply new. Otherwise microscopic air bubbles form and retard heat transfer between CPU and heat sync.
Try this... run Prime95 and watch the core temps for a few minutes. If they get past 65C, stop Prime95.
http://www.mersenne.org/download/index.php
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isa108
May 12, 2014 7:49:07 PM
clutchc said:
That's too warm. Something is wrong. Either the temp reading is off, or it is not cooling properly.Is it free of dust and dirt? Cables tied out of the way for good airflow? You really need an intake and exhaust fan at the very least. Even with the side off, heat builds up and can't escape as good as moving in and out via fans.
Have you ever had to remove the cooler? Once you install a cooler, if it ever has to be removed whether for adjustment or some other reason, you must clean off the old thermal paste and apply new. Otherwise microscopic air bubbles form and retard heat transfer between CPU and heat sync.
Try this... run Prime95 and watch the core temps for a few minutes. If they get past 65C, stop Prime95.
http://www.mersenne.org/download/index.php
Within 30 seconds of starting Prime95, the temp was already at 67C. I have an exhaust fan but no intake. There's not much dirt in my case and just a little dust. All cables are tightened down to the case or put in the unused HDD slots. I've never touched the cooler. But I'll look around to see if I have some thermal paste and reapply it. Also when cleaning off old thermal paste, using an old credit card to scrape it off is good, right?
In about an hour or two I'm meeting a guy for his case. Also, just a side question, have you or anyone you know have experience with a Coolermaster Storm Stryker or Fractal Design Define R4? I'm deciding between those two cases.
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You really need to use a cleaner to get all the TIM off the surfaces of both he CPU and the cooler. I use this: http://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-60ml-Kit-30ml/dp/B0007... ...and coffee filters because they don't leave lint. You can also use isopropyl alcohol in place of the cleaner. But wait for it to dry.
Use just a pea size dab of TIM in the middle of the CPU. Then try to install the cooler w/o lifting it back off the CPU... those darn air bubbles will form.
I have a Fractal Design Arc Mini and the one in my sig. That's the only experience with either of them I've had. Fractals are well designed and well made cases.
Use just a pea size dab of TIM in the middle of the CPU. Then try to install the cooler w/o lifting it back off the CPU... those darn air bubbles will form.
I have a Fractal Design Arc Mini and the one in my sig. That's the only experience with either of them I've had. Fractals are well designed and well made cases.
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isa108
May 12, 2014 8:03:28 PM
clutchc said:
You really need to use a cleaner to get all the TIM off the surfaces of both he CPU and the cooler. I use this: http://www.amazon.com/ArctiClean-60ml-Kit-30ml/dp/B0007... ...and coffee filters because they don't leave lint. You can also use isopropyl alcohol in place of the cleaner. But wait for it to dry.Use just a pea size dab of TIM in the middle of the CPU. Then try to install the cooler w/o lifting it back off the CPU... those darn air bubbles will form.
I have a Fractal Design Arc Mini and the one in my sig. That's the only experience with either of them I've had. Fractals are well designed and well made cases.
I'll definitely buy the cleaner when I can, but for now I'll use alcohol as a substitute. So just a little drop of it on both the CPU and the cooler? Then let it air dry? Also what's TIM? The product you referred to me?
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Reply to isa108
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TIM = Thermal Interface Material. Just a catch-all name for thermal paste I use to keep from typing 'thermal paste' all the time.
No, you don't let the alcohol drop dry. You use it to dissolve the old paste and wipe it away.
I usually first wipe as much away as I can with the coffee filter dry. Then, Just put enough ArctiClean 1 (or isopropyl alcohol) on the CPU to cover the left-over paste on it. Let it sit for about 30 sec and then wipe it off with a clean coffee filter. Do the same for the cooler base. Try not to get any cleaner on anything else! Don't let it run off the CPU onto the socket or board. Give the clean surfaces a minute or so to dry before continuing.
If you use the above ArctiClean Kit, you can repeat the process with the ArctiClean 2 Thermal Surface Purifier to leave the surface in like-new condition. Then just use the pea-size dab of thermal paste on the center of the CPU. Let the pressure and heat of the cooler spread it by itself. No need to spread it around. And remember, better to use too little paste than too much. All you're trying to accomplish is to leave a thin film between surfaces to fill in the microscopic pores of the metal. I use this for thermal paste: http://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-Carbon-Based-Thermal-...
I like it because it's not electrically conductive if it some touches the socket or board (where it shouldn't be).
Once you set the cooler on the paste, try not to raise it back up again. That's when the air bubbles form. If you have to, then start over with the application as noted above.
No, you don't let the alcohol drop dry. You use it to dissolve the old paste and wipe it away.
I usually first wipe as much away as I can with the coffee filter dry. Then, Just put enough ArctiClean 1 (or isopropyl alcohol) on the CPU to cover the left-over paste on it. Let it sit for about 30 sec and then wipe it off with a clean coffee filter. Do the same for the cooler base. Try not to get any cleaner on anything else! Don't let it run off the CPU onto the socket or board. Give the clean surfaces a minute or so to dry before continuing.
If you use the above ArctiClean Kit, you can repeat the process with the ArctiClean 2 Thermal Surface Purifier to leave the surface in like-new condition. Then just use the pea-size dab of thermal paste on the center of the CPU. Let the pressure and heat of the cooler spread it by itself. No need to spread it around. And remember, better to use too little paste than too much. All you're trying to accomplish is to leave a thin film between surfaces to fill in the microscopic pores of the metal. I use this for thermal paste: http://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-Carbon-Based-Thermal-...
I like it because it's not electrically conductive if it some touches the socket or board (where it shouldn't be).
Once you set the cooler on the paste, try not to raise it back up again. That's when the air bubbles form. If you have to, then start over with the application as noted above.
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isa108
May 14, 2014 7:40:19 PM
clutchc said:
TIM = Thermal Interface Material. Just a catch-all name for thermal paste I use to keep from typing 'thermal paste' all the time.No, you don't let the alcohol drop dry. You use it to dissolve the old paste and wipe it away.
I usually first wipe as much away as I can with the coffee filter dry. Then, Just put enough ArctiClean 1 (or isopropyl alcohol) on the CPU to cover the left-over paste on it. Let it sit for about 30 sec and then wipe it off with a clean coffee filter. Do the same for the cooler base. Try not to get any cleaner on anything else! Don't let it run off the CPU onto the socket or board. Give the clean surfaces a minute or so to dry before continuing.
If you use the above ArctiClean Kit, you can repeat the process with the ArctiClean 2 Thermal Surface Purifier to leave the surface in like-new condition. Then just use the pea-size dab of thermal paste on the center of the CPU. Let the pressure and heat of the cooler spread it by itself. No need to spread it around. And remember, better to use too little paste than too much. All you're trying to accomplish is to leave a thin film between surfaces to fill in the microscopic pores of the metal. I use this for thermal paste: http://www.amazon.com/ARCTIC-MX-4-Carbon-Based-Thermal-...
I like it because it's not electrically conductive if it some touches the socket or board (where it shouldn't be).
Once you set the cooler on the paste, try not to raise it back up again. That's when the air bubbles form. If you have to, then start over with the application as noted above.
I just got my new case and I'll be working on that tonight. Would you by any chance know how to remove a stripped motherboard screw?
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Reply to isa108
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Read this, and let me know if the problem persists.
An Understanding of Temperature on AMD CPUs and APUs
Does HWMonitor say your CPU/APU temp is 70C when idling but your CPU socket feels cool to the touch? Is Core Temp only reading 10C but it's not possible because your room is 28C? The reason is that these and other 3rd party programs are not... See full content
Does HWMonitor say your CPU/APU temp is 70C when idling but your CPU socket feels cool to the touch? Is Core Temp only reading 10C but it's not possible because your room is 28C? The reason is that these and other 3rd party programs are not... See full content
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Reply to damric
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isa108
May 16, 2014 1:52:42 AM
clutchc said:
If you can find a tool like this screw cutter: http://www.argoequipment.com/images/items/prods/p138_00......and you can get it under the head of the screw, you can snip off the head. Then just leave that one out when it comes to mtg the MB to the case.
The tool can be found in almost any hdwr store.
Can you post a close up pic of the situation?
Never mind! I've done it! After 3 hours of drilling, I've taken the damn screw out. Tomorrow I'll finally be able to actually work on my computer. WOOO!
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isa108
May 15, 2014 8:03:45 PM
clutchc said:
If you can find a tool like this screw cutter: http://www.argoequipment.com/images/items/prods/p138_00......and you can get it under the head of the screw, you can snip off the head. Then just leave that one out when it comes to mtg the MB to the case.
The tool can be found in almost any hdwr store.
Can you post a close up pic of the situation?

I can't get anything under the screw, I've made progress with taking out the standoff, but it's not budging anymore. Any suggestions?
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isa108 said:
I just got my new case and I'll be working on that tonight. Would you by any chance know how to remove a stripped motherboard screw?
See if you can get something under the head of the screw and gently lift up as you try backing it out with your screwdriver. Sometimes that will allow good threads to catch. How did you manage to strip a new screw already in a new case? Use the wrong ones?
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Reply to clutchc
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If you can find a tool like this screw cutter: http://www.argoequipment.com/images/items/prods/p138_00...
...and you can get it under the head of the screw, you can snip off the head. Then just leave that one out when it comes to mtg the MB to the case.
The tool can be found in almost any hdwr store.
Can you post a close up pic of the situation?
...and you can get it under the head of the screw, you can snip off the head. Then just leave that one out when it comes to mtg the MB to the case.
The tool can be found in almost any hdwr store.
Can you post a close up pic of the situation?
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Reply to clutchc
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isa108
May 15, 2014 6:44:45 PM
clutchc said:
isa108 said:
I just got my new case and I'll be working on that tonight. Would you by any chance know how to remove a stripped motherboard screw?
See if you can get something under the head of the screw and gently lift up as you try backing it out with your screwdriver. Sometimes that will allow good threads to catch. How did you manage to strip a new screw already in a new case? Use the wrong ones?
I've tried that but it literally won't budge whatsoever. And no lol I'm not THAT careless. The guy I bought it off of sold it extremely cheap since he has two stripped motherboard screws. I got the other one out with just taking out the standoff. The other screw is a completely different issue though.
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isa108
May 16, 2014 1:49:10 AM
isa108 said:
clutchc said:
If you can find a tool like this screw cutter: http://www.argoequipment.com/images/items/prods/p138_00......and you can get it under the head of the screw, you can snip off the head. Then just leave that one out when it comes to mtg the MB to the case.
The tool can be found in almost any hdwr store.
Can you post a close up pic of the situation?
Never mind! I've done it! After 3 hours of drilling, I've taken the damn screw out. Tomorrow I'll finally be able to actually work on my computer. WOOO!
Good job. I was just going to ask if you had a drill motor and some small bits.
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Reply to clutchc
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isa108
May 17, 2014 8:21:04 PM
clutchc said:
isa108 said:
clutchc said:
If you can find a tool like this screw cutter: http://www.argoequipment.com/images/items/prods/p138_00......and you can get it under the head of the screw, you can snip off the head. Then just leave that one out when it comes to mtg the MB to the case.
The tool can be found in almost any hdwr store.
Can you post a close up pic of the situation?
Never mind! I've done it! After 3 hours of drilling, I've taken the damn screw out. Tomorrow I'll finally be able to actually work on my computer. WOOO!
Good job. I was just going to ask if you had a drill motor and some small bits.
I've gotten everything set up now, and the Aerocool V12XT says that my whole PC is ranging from 26C-28C. My CPU more specifically,is 26C. But all other software says my CPU is 44C, which should I believe?
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isa108
May 18, 2014 3:01:54 PM
clutchc said:
It depends on what you are reading in those pgms. Are they both reading the same CPU location; core temp, socket temp, Tcase temp...?I'm a freaking idiot... I forgot to place the thermal sensors on the components. I placed them on, and now the temps match the ones from the programs. The only sensor I'm not sure where to put is the CPU one.. Would you know where to place it? Or should I start a new thread?
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Reply to isa108
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Oh! My bad. You meant the thermal sensors from the Aerocool fan controller. Lol... Place the sensor for the CPU on the heat sync's base. They show a pic of where here. (scroll down) http://www.aerocool.us/peripheral/v12xt.htm
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