CPU Running too hot when gaming. Help needed

ar7081 · May 13, 2014

I recently had a computer built for me from a local computer store. I gave them a part list and they made it for me,

http://pcpartpicker.com/user/ar7081/saved/4E7Z

This is more or less the build. To be more specific: It has a 120mm fan in the front, the stock CPU fan, and one in the back. It runs okay for the most part, but during gaming it tends to run very hot.

The worst example by far is the WildStar Open Beta. I turn it on and immediately the fans begin kicking in faster. After about 5 minutes RealTemp is telling me the temps are running near 100 degrees Celsius, and the fans begin to run so fast they make a ticking/buzzsaw noise.

Other games that I've tried like DoTA2, Don't Starve, and Rust work okay, even then the temps tend to go up to 70, sometimes 75. I've been hearing that I shouldn't go too much higher than 65 while gaming so this concerns me.

According to the guy who built it, there isn't enough room for more fans, or even bigger ones. He recommended replacing the stock fan on the CPU. He suggested this: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099

If I replace this, would it be enough to get me where I should be? Or did I get a bad rig?

makkem · May 13, 2014

Hi
Yes that is a very good cooler for the money,and is a huge improvement on the stock cooler and will lower the temperatures a lot.
Dont forget to get some good thermal paste with that and your temperatures will be down to where they should be.

LucoTF · May 13, 2014

Looks like a good replacement

clarkjd · May 13, 2014

While that CPU cooler is one of the best "Bang for the Buck" coolers, unless you are overclocking the CPU, the stock cooler should be good enough. It sounds like whoever built the PC did not allow for good airflow in the case. the main culprit in these instances is all the wireing from the PSU blocking the airflow through the case. unless you get good airflow, the best CPU cooler will not help with your temperatures.

Deleted member 1300495 · May 13, 2014

Aftermarket coolers are NECESSARY when gaming. Especially with that i7. Also, why did you get an i7 when you could have saved money, gone with an i5, then used that money to get a 770 or a 280/270X?

ar7081 · May 13, 2014

clarkjd :

That's what I was thinking. This was the original case I had in my part list: http://pcpartpicker.com/part/cooler-master-case-rc912kkn1

Since I didn't really know what was what, and with some oversight, I really didn't think to question it

ar7081 · May 13, 2014

I picked an i7 because this PC is built for gaming and graphic design. I went with the hyper-threading so I could get the most out of photoshop, illustrator, and the like.

Deleted member 1300495 · May 13, 2014

Oh, then it is perfect. But then you should get a H100i to aid while gaming.

JackNaylorPE · May 13, 2014

Something's wrong ..... since you are not overclocking, you shouldn't need an aftermarket cooler. Even CPU Benchmarks don't take a stock cooler up that high unless overclocked with AVX instructions being loaded.

The dude is mistaken. That case can fit (5) 120mm fans:

Cooling System
-Top: 120 mm fan x 2 (optional)
-Front: 120 mm blue LED fan x 1, 140 mm fan x 1 (optional)
-Rear: 80/90/120 mm fan x 1 (optional)
-Side: 120mm fan x 1 (optional)
-Bottom: 80/90/120 mm fan x 1 (optional)

An easy way to check if additional case cooling will help is to take off the side panel and use a desk or window fan to blow air into the case....if temps change a lot, you need more cooling.

As for cooling alternatives three options......

1. Air cooling - The big 3 are the Phanteks PH-TC14-PE, Thermalright Silver Arrow and Noctua DH-14 and can be had at about $75. If that's a budget killer the HYper 212 is a decent budget cooler but will run 7 - 10C above those babies.

2, AIO - I see no value to an AIO..... the double radiator versions can match the above three coolers and with rare exceptions, when they can they are so danged loud you can't be in the same room with them. The H100i for example breaks 60 dBA....the equivalent of a modern vacuum cleaner. The H110 runs at a more reasonable 1500 rpm and is capable of matching the Noctua DH-14 in thermal and acoustic performance but it's $35 more than the Phanteks.

3. Custom water cooling - I have never put any aftermarket cooler on a "non K" CPU so this would be a real stretch.

You can add an auxillary fan to blow air around the CPU and MOFSETS. Some cases allow mounting on the side of the HD cages to blow air over GFX cards and CPU. Another option I have used with success is this:

http://www.zalman.co.kr/eng/product/Product_Read.php?Idx=226

Diox55 · May 13, 2014

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant / Benchmarks

CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.94 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: EVGA GeForce GTX 760 2GB Dual Superclocked ACX Video Card ($239.99 @ Newegg)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($44.99 @ NCIX US)
Total: $314.92
(Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available.)
(Generated by PCPartPicker 2014-05-13 09:33 EDT-0400)

I have a few gripes with this. I would've gone with a K version of the i7 if you wanted to, but I left that out. Instead of that blower 760, I would've went with an ACX version, it'll help with air flow and keep the gpu cooler. The case as well, the 200r is a fantastic case and has great air flow, but you don't have to change it. I see people are saying you don't need an aftermarket cooler, but I'd still tell you to go with the 212 Evo, it'll help when your gaming for some increased airflow. Stock fans are known to get loud when put under some great loads.

spdragoo · May 13, 2014

JackNaylorPE is spot-on: your case should be able to support a lot more fans than just 2. The setup is pretty similar to my Thermaltake V3, except that my manual actually says it won't fit a 2nd fan on top (it has the mesh holes for it, but it specifically says that the RAM slots on an ATX board will block a fan). I use 4 fans in mine: bottom & front panel fans pull the cool air in, rear & top fans push the hot air back out.

Try adding the 2-3 additional fans before getting an after-market cooler; they'll be a lot cheaper than a CPU cooler, & even if they don't fix the problem 100% they'll still help with the rest of the build. I'm sure that, if your CPU is having that much trouble, the other components -- GPU, HDD/SSD, RAM, etc. -- are also going to have heat issues.

Also, make sure the tower is placed correctly. My computer desk has a cabinet for the tower, but as built it had an enclosed back with just 2 cable holes in it. Needless to say, I removed the fiberboard back to leave it open, & always leave the cabinet door open when the PC is on, so that its airflow isn't restricted.

ar7081 · May 13, 2014

I have taken measures to increase air flow.

Yes my PC is between my desk and the wall, but I have the PC jutting out a bit so the back has more breathing room and the front is closer to my vent. I also have the computer suspended a few feet off the ground to give the bottom about 3 inches of space too.

The PC store I got this from offered to buy and install the Hyper 212 Evo and only charge me the part price. But I still worry, and have a few questions regarding that:

1. WildStar and Everquest Landmark (Both more CPU intensive games in beta) both run pretty hot, while other games hit about 70-75. How much of a difference will the Hyper 212 Evo alone make?

2. I checked the PC yesterday, and there are rooms for fans to go into, but it doesn't look like there's anywhere on the motherboard where you can plug it into. I'm not sure if that should be a thing or not, but if on the off chance that the Hyper 212 EVO isn't enough, what other measures can I take to increase airflow and cooling?

ar7081 · May 13, 2014

I also want to add: Using Speccy, the GPU seems to run at about 60 degrees Celsius when running WildStar. So that's operating well right?

ar7081 · May 13, 2014

clarkjd :

I also wanted to add to this, could the wiring be rearranged in the same case to aid in the cooling?

ar7081 · May 14, 2014

clarkjd · May 14, 2014

ar7081 :

Possibly. Routing the wires and cabling is an art, some are better at it than others.

YMMV.

spdragoo · May 15, 2014

ar7081 :

OK, so your placement is probably OK...as long as that vent isn't pumping out hot air right in front of your PC (it'll be great when the A/C runs in the summertime, but not so great when the furnace runs in the winter). But if you can keep any hot vent air from blowing directly onto the front of the tower, you should be fine.

1) Not really familiar with after-market coolers; I don't OC, so I stick with the stock coolers. However, I've heard the Hyper EVO 212 is a really good air-cooling option, so if I had to guess I would expect your temps to drop at least 10, maybe 20, degrees Centigrade with using it.

2) Double-check the motherboard manual again. Gigabyte's website says it has "1 x CPU fan header, 1 x water cooling fan header (CPU_OPT), 4 x system fan headers". If I'm reading the manual from their website correctly, the CPU & Water Cooling fan headers are right next to the CMOS battery (just below the CPU socket), & the 4 system fan headers are:
-- SYS_FAN1 is a 4-pin connector, next to the 8-pin ATX 12V power plug (near the top USB 3.0 ports towards the rear; perfect placement for the rear-mounted fan);
-- SYS_FAN2 is a 4-pin connector, just below your 8 SATA ports (right below ports #6 & 7, towards the front; perfect for the front-mounted fan);
-- SYS_FAN3 is a 4-pin connector, between the front audio panel (F_AUDIO) and Trusted Platform Module (TPM) sockets along the bottom edge (right below PCIe slot #4; perfect for the bottom-mounted fan);
-- SYS_FAN4 is a 3-pin connector, between the RAM slots & the main ATX power connector (right next to the Debug LEDs; perfect for a top-mounted fan)
If you don't have a fan with a 3-pin connector, though, they usually have a MOLEX adapter as a 2nd option for connection them directly to the PSU; you won't be able to control the fan speeds, though, if you use MOLEX connections for the case fans (they'll either be off or at 100%, depending on if the system is powered on or not).

ar7081 · May 15, 2014

I don't OC either, but I think for my current situation I need to go with the Hyper EVO 212 just for the added cooling.

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