Need help! Liquid cooled PC; CPU idle 70c, and Cpu fan rpm 0

DrInsanity

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Redid thread- I was sure that was the solution on the other thread, but I called my friend and he said that he did add an antibacterial solution so that means that can't be it. Apologies in advance for picking solution really quick.

Please help, I've searched everywhere in tom's hardware, google and other forums and couldn't find anything :( . (Had this pc for 6 months, cpu temp used to be about 30c idle, even when overclocked to 4Ghz)

What I know:
Water cooling works, I can feel water in the pipes,
Fans are all spinning
All fan headers are connected
Tried turning off, taking plug out, holding power button 30 secs turn back on, no success. Moreover, it cannot be due to bacteria as my friend had added an antibacterial solution to the liquid.

Specs:
Intel core i7 4770k
GTX 780
MSI Z87 gaming mobo
corsair silent fans
corsair obsidian 800d case
8gb ram
1tb hdd

Additional info:
When I had gone onto the bios, the temperatures sprung up to 90c, then it turned off. I let it cool down for a bit and now it's a bit better
Headers have a 3 wires going into 4 pins, but they work
Worked fine when overclocked to 4ghz, same temp.

Oh and these are my other fan speeds:

CPU FAN 1: 0 RPM
CPU FAN 2: 1700 RPM
SYS FAN: 1732 RPM
AUX FAN: 728 RPM
AUX FAN 1: 1018 RPM
AUX FAN 2: 938 RPM
 

DrInsanity

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Water is distilled, with dye and antibacterial
UPDATE!: Temp has decreased to 50-65 but I still need to do something to get it lower to 30 because it will crash under load
 


What dye and antibacterial? It is possible that the dye dropped out and clogged part of your block.
 


Vegetable based dye? That's a new one.

Either way either your pump is only partially working (not enough water flow) or more likely to me is that your CPU block or rad are partially blocked (not enough water flow) due to either algae or dye drop out. You can reseat your CPU block if you want but I have a feeling you are about to discover the "joys" of dyes.

Basically try: (in order of cost and time)
reseat CPU block
then disassemble loop and blocks and clean.
if that isn't it you have a bad pump that isn't strong enough.
 

DrInsanity

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Ah damn, I hate risky reseatings xD. If there are any other solutions for now, please state them because I want to cross out anything I've missed before I reseat and clean. And I'm still looking for solutions regarding my cpu fan at 0rpm even though the fan is spinning.

UPDATE: I was just wondering, could it be due to the cpu fan not spinning fast enough? I know it's not detected but what if it is only going at 1000rpm instead of, perhaps 2000? How do I get my fan to be detected?
Also cpu fan 2 is around 1700rpm, that is kind of slow, right? How do I increase it?
 


You should be able to change the fans speeds in the bios or using speed fan during windows. You can also swap the two cpu fans real quick and see if that is a bad fan or mobo header. They should ramp with load and temps.

By clean I mean dismantle the block and clean the inside of it.

Can you list your entire rig including rad size pump etc.
 

DrInsanity

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Ok I will switch cpu fan 1 with cpu fan 2 and see if it makes any difference
UPDATE: I switched it and then cpu fan 1 is 1700rpm but now cpu fan 2 is 0rpm, I should also mention, the fan that is moving, but giving 0rpm goes into the pin much more easily than the others

And my watercooling rig:
RX360 radiator
DDC 1+T pump 18w
250mm Reservoir
 



Ya that is a bad fan then it may work but it you aren't going to be able to monitor speed or adjust it. One of the pins in the connector itself may have backed out so it doesn't make contact.

With a 360 rad on just a 4770K a single bad fan probably isn't your problem though.
 

DrInsanity

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But it was working extremely well before (a week ago) at like 20-30c idle, does that mean I have to call an engineer :(?

 

DrInsanity

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does that mean there is no solution :(? what can I do please I spent almost all my savings on this.
 


This won't cost anything but time and maybe like $20. I still believe you have a partial blockage in one of your blocks or rad most likely due to the dye likely it was fully blocked some of it got pushed through and that is why your temps went back down some. You are going to need to take your loop out and clean it. It isn't hard but it is time consuming. Even if it isn't the problem (still think it is) you've now learned something that you should know if you want to do full custom water cooling anyway.


I can walk you through the steps real quick if you would like. A picture of the system would be helpful to see what you have going on though.
 

DrInsanity

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Yes please I need all the help I can get, like how to get the water out etc
Here are the some images:

Desktop_Image_1.jpg

Desktop_Image_2.jpg

Desktop_Image_4.jpg


(sorry about last image, dunno how that happened xD)


 
Who built that for you and why are there no clamps on your barbs? < This is important without clamps that tubing stands apretty good chance of eventually working its way off even with the old 3/8 over 1/2 barb trick.

Also I can't tell but dacquesta1 thinks there is air in the lines. Can you see any bubbles at all?
 

dacquesta1

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Good call on the lack of clamps, I didn't even notice that. If you could take a higher resolution picture it may help but when I zoom in it looks like bubbles.

 

DrInsanity

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Well I bought it off a friend, but i'm almost certain there aren't any air bubbles. should bleed it out again to be sure?
I will try to get a higher quality shot, will update in a few minutes
But i think that shot was an effect from the lighting
 


If you don't see anything than you are probably good for the air then. The pics weren't spectacular so may have been nothing and you are there so you can see better. If you want turn you computer on its side and lightly shake. That will dislodge bubbles if there are any.

If you are sure there is no air then I think it is time to start cleaning. How long has it been since the fluid was changed?
 

DrInsanity

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Oh god, the fluid has never been changed :eek:, I have all my tools ready for reseating and cleaning. Any other solutions before I risk my pc's life xD?
 


Yep I bet that's it then. Dyes are recommended to be changed every 6 months max. I can't think of anything else but don't worry if your careful there is really no risk of damage.

You will need:
Pot of boiling water (softens tubing if necessary)
Thermal paste reseating
screwdriver (for taking rad out and dismantling blocks)
Small wrench (if you need to take a fitting off)
worm clamps (these are for the barbs when you put it back together)
New tubing (if you want to replace your old)
Distilled water (replacing fluid)
PTnuke/Kill coil (antibacterial anti algae)
Paper towels

unplug the computer first if you spill clean with isopropyl alcohol as the dye won't evaporate.

Basically you either want to take the whole loop out as one piece. If that is not possible then you will want to pick the lowest point in your loop and open it there draining it out into a bucket. Take the GPU and anything you think will be in the way out.

Once you have the loop out take the rad run hot water through it until it comes out clean shake while doing that. Same for the reservoir and tubing.
on your CPU block there will be screws take them out and open the block being careful not to lose any screws or the washers in the block. Clean it very well you will likely find a collection of "goo" stuck in the channels of the block.

Then rinse everything with distilled water. make sure the CPU block doesn't leak once you put it back together and the you can put the loop back in filling only with Distilled water and kill coil or a couple drops of PTnuke.

If you want to continue to run dye adopt a 3-6 month maintenance for the loop where you break it apart and clean it.
Just distilled adopt a 1+ year maintenance.
 

DrInsanity

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Oh god it is very scary, to me it is like performing a surgery xD, how much will an engineer cost to do this?
 


I have no idea how much that would cost.

If you really don't want to deal with the water loop anymore just take it out and replace it with a decent air cooler like the CM Hyper 212 EVO ($30). It is much simpler to install (4 screws and paste) and maintenance is virtually zero. The temps will be higher but still livable.

Full custom loops are definitely not for those unfamiliar and unready and you should have been warned before you bought that rig with it installed.